My wheel ROCKS!

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You need the FSM to do this the right way...you will need to replace the races if you do the bearings too.

hate to say it, but if you are in there, the birf is the next step, and only an extra hour or so.
 
If you don't have a seal puller for the grease seal you could remove it by replacing 54 mm one of the locking back onto the spindle once the outer bearing is removed. then slide the hub over the nut so the inner bearing contacts it and then bump it against the nut while rotating the hub. This will knock out the grease seal and allow it to be reused.

Since you have an alternate vehicle I'd take Dan's advice and remove the spindle. It's 8 bolts I beleive and take a peak at the Birf while your there. Might be all good but if it isn't then you'll have saved yourself some heart ache down the road.
 
Ok, so I need the FSM first, because all those names of parts you guys are throwning out so casually utterly confuse me.

But it looks like the only tool I need to buy so far is the 54mm socket. That's good, as tools are expensive. Especially when you buy them piece meal like I tend to.

I'll try the trick LandTank suggested for the seal puller, as I don't really want to buy it if I don't need it. My limited budget looks like it'll go to the bearings and grease, and hand cleaner.

Can I do both sides of the front axle for $4-500 in parts and supplies?
 
Doc before you start make sure you know what you are getting into. You have admitted you are a :banana: type guy. Front-end service is more than :banana:it is not hard but most things are not if you know how. Read the links below and if you are still willing to dig in. Find someone that has done it before to help you. There are things that have not been talked about that could be a challenge for a :banana: type guy( cone washers, snap rings) before you even get to the knuckle. I'm not saying not to do it but get some help and make it a good experience.


Phil


http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/

http://www.safari4x4.com.au/80scool/tech/birfield_repack/repack.html

http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/toy_root/techneek/top_neek.htm

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml
 
without a doubt,
go through the posts in the tech section on birfield repack before you dive in. You are really stopping at miel 25 of the marathon if you dont pull the axle shafts and replace the inner oil seal. especially if you have had some serious play in the wheel chances are it is trashed.
I spent about 700 when I did mine but I had the original then 150k birfs remanned. I do not suggest this to anyone anymore as most reman shops are idiots. I found a good one but some others have not been so lucky.
read up dont be scared buy a real 54mm socket and call dan.
Dave
 
>> But it looks like the only tool I need to buy so far is the 54mm socket. <<

Option 1. Buy the 54mm hub socket from C-Dan when you get the other Toyota parts and manuals.
Option 2. Stop a Snap-On truck and get a 54mm (2-1/8") Bluepoint hub socket;
1/2" drive (approx $15 )
Option 3. Buy a 2-1/8" socket and 3/4 to 1/2" adapter from Sears.

-B-
 
Doc, et. al,

You are inspiring me to get my hands dirty and try a few simple maintenance tasks myself. I might start with something simple like a radiator flush...
 
From what I hear the Birfield re-pack is the 'holy grail' of LC maintenance. So- maybe that's why I'm intimidated by it. But anyway, it's nice to have a 'spare' car laying around so that I feel a bit easier tearing into the vitals. Hell, if it's out of commission for a week or more, no big deal, right?

So I can take my time at it and get it right.

Plus, with those websites linked above and a FSM I should be all set.

I've got a list of tools, so I'll head to sears tonight to see if I can get a 54mm socket, brass punch, and maybe a pair of snap ring pliers.

Then it's over to O'reily's to pick up a couple rolls of shop towls, a grease gun, and a tub of grease (recommendations on the grease type?). I'll post pics as I go along, y'all can critique my skillz yo! (or lack thereof..).
 
I'm not sure what your talking about for work right now. But if it's just the wheel bearings and you got the Timkens from Autozone then probably in the 75.00 range.

2 bearing sets
2 hub seals
tub of grease
roll of paper towels

Tools I'd have on hand

54 mm socket
Brass drift punch (sears sells them in a set of 3)
-for knocking out races and those cone washers
Good jack stands and something to chock the wheels
a fish scale if you decide to follow the FSM to the letter
outer snap ring plyers
 
Doc, when you're done you're going to kick yourself for worrying about the difficulty here. The hardest part of the whole job is getting those cone washers off... as long as you're splurging on new toys treat yourself to a nice brass hammer, then you can leave the drift in the box. You'll still need a small drift if you plan on pounding out your races, however. (unless you have a big press & bearing press tools you're not telling us about).

Everyone who wants to keep their Cruiser around for a while should do this... the fact that you noticed a loose bearing is a blessing, as it's forced you to take this on and life afterwords will become so much clearer. Just remember after you've removed the caliper, and you've removed both of the big nuts and your rotor is now sliding off the spindle towards you, to put your hand in front of it to catch the outer bearing & washer, otherwise they'll fall down into the dirt, not good to reuse a bearing after it's taken a dive. I'll sometimes pull the rotor off part way with my hand in front, then push it back on which leaves the bearing just dangling there on end of the axle shaft, easy to remove. Oh but heck you're replacing your bearings anyway so nevermind, let em drop. have fun.. let us know if you get stuck.
 
Ok, what the hell is a drift?

My only previous car experince is with import cars. So a drift in the import world is a controled power slide, I'm thinking that's not what you're talking about here.
 
drift = brass bar
 
[quote author=Doc link=board=2;threadid=16971;start=msg164440#msg164440 date=1085591978]
Ok, what the hell is a drift?

My only previous car experince is with import cars. So a drift in the import world is a controled power slide, I'm thinking that's not what you're talking about here.
[/quote]

Doc,

I was a one banana guy before I bought my rig, but have done a sh!t load on it over the last 6 months, including a front axle overhaul a month ago. Here's my advice, coming from a guy in your shoes not too long ago.

1) Park the truck and sit down and catch your breath, cause your head is probably spinning right now.

2) KNOW BEFORE YOU GO - Order the FSM from C'dan right now. The pictures and figures in there are worth a billion words, and will get you oriented so you know who all the players are. Might as well go ahead and order the knuckle rebuild kit too, with the trunion bearings. As said above, get the wheel bearings from Autozone or local.

3) As far as doing the full birf job.. read through all the tech articles and FAQ. There's a little bit of something useful in all of them, including lists of the tools and stuff you're going to need.

4) Set aside a full weekend to do it, no less. These guys make it sound easy, but most of them were one banana guys when they were twelve. This job takes time and is messy, but get prepared and you can do it. I had a couple phone numbers handy of guys on this board so when a ran into a snag, I had somebody to call, which I did.

Next stop two bananas.

:beer:
Rookie2
 
Doc,

Check out the HF web site.

37038.gif


These all-brass punches will not damage valuable parts the way steel punches can. They are safe to use near fuel lines because they do not spark. Includes one tapered and one straight punch. Straight punch features a knurled handle for a secure grip, as well as a 1/2'' round head; tapered punch has hex handle and 3/8'' head. 8'' long.


ITEM 37038-0VGA

$5.99

-B-
 
[quote author=DanKunz link=board=2;threadid=16971;start=msg164174#msg164174 date=1085575568]
AT A MINIMUM you get these three things tightened back to spec per the FSM:
- tighten adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs., turn wheel forward and back a few times, loosen to hand tight, repeat twice, then tighten to 48 ft. lbs.
- install lock washer with tabs bent per above.
- install lock nut with same torque and procedure as adjusting nut.[/quote]
WHOA, isn't the final torque supposed to be 48 inch lbs or something?
I haven't done this yet, just trying to remember what I read. FSM says preload should be 6.4 - 12.6lb-ft with a spring tension gauge.

EDIT: preload should be in lbs, not lb-ft
 
I'm interested in which methods others have used to bend the lock washer's tab ? I had switched to a new tab and used a large screw driver to do it when repacking mine.

Frank.
 
Good on ya Doc...way to take a challenge.

So here's my reward since I got you into this mess. Hopefully this will make things clearer plus allow us all to use the "proper" terminology. As far as what everyone is saying...the deeper you go, the better, but the more parts you will need to replace.

If you inspect the rear bearing, you might have to replace the seal...les than $10 IIRC
If you replace the bearings, you need to replace the races as well....hardest part of it all IMO.

Special tools, 54mm socket (or 21/8) brass drift, torque wrench, and spring scale.
 
WHY CAN'T I POST THIS PAGE>>>>.

Page 10 is at the back.... :'(
 
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