My rescue and recesitation of a 71 spring green 40.

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Oh, I’m going to try it. Going to get it decently cleaned up first. I think it will look pretty nice once I get that done. I was thinking, depending on how it looks I will probably go with that for a while. I am going to get some steelies and caps and go back to that look.
 
Current condition of my F engine.

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Yeah. I’m seriously thinking of storing the F and doing the 2F swap. Makes the most sense to me at this point.
 
I have everything else still in the back. There is a big plastic container with all the pistons and some other stuff in there. Couldn’t get that and the head out tonight because I could not get the back open. Didn’t feel like trying to drag it out through the front.

Good to know about your relative. I was initially leaning towards rebuilding the F but after reading a ton of stuff here I’m thinking I might just source a 2F and four speed to mate up with this TC.
 
VTX78FJ40 said:
I have everything else still in the back. There is a big plastic container with all the pistons and some other stuff in there.

I was initially leaning towards rebuilding the F but after reading a ton of stuff here I’m thinking I might just source a 2F and four speed to mate up with this TC.
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Get the 2F: done is good. There are SO MANY things that HAVE to be done up front (e.g. steering and brakes) there’s no need to take on building an engine as well if you can get a runner for now.

The road to reselling a project vehicle is filled with over-ambition.
 
Decent 2F's are pretty easy to find. I have bought 2 over the last 10 years one for $50 and 1 for $200 and both purrrred like a kitten
 
I need to figure out what all I need to do the swap. I was thinking using 2F and 4spd but keep the TC from the 71.
 
Should I use this as my build thread or make another? Title isn’t really conducive to a build thread.
 
VTX78FJ40 said:
Should I use this as my build thread or make another? Title isn’t really conducive to a build thread.
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My guess is if you come up with a really creative re-title and ask a moderator, they can probably help you. Unfortunately, it’s only a guess.
 
You can edit the title yourself. Go for it... you'll have how & where it began.
 
Thanks! Ok, so I made some progress tonight. Began the process of clean up. Inventoried and organized all my parts and cleaned up the 40. I figured out that my 40 had been home to a critter of some kind that liked the heck out of pecans. What a mess!

The bed had a hideous outdoor carpet of some type on it. I was afraid of what would lie underneath. Fortunately, after removing the nasty (seriously, it was NASTY) carpet the floor is dirty but solid. Here’s a couple of photos to show the partially cleaned product.

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One of the worst signs of rust on this rig is in the back, driver side where the top meets the bed. This is shown in this picture.

Also, I took almost all of the bolts off the fiberglass lid on the top. All the back side bolts were rusted solid. They all broke off. The side bolts came free relatively easily with the aid of PB Blaster and a torch. The top, especially towards the rear top hatch is going to have some rust issues. I’ll try and post some pictures of that tomorrow.

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There’s still metal under your rust. That’s not rust, that’s patina.

Great find! Still has the ignition key. Throw some gas in the tank and crank her up! Wait a minute...
 
Haha, yeah. Gotta figure out my drive train situation first. Have a source with a complete 77 2F. Engine, tranny, TC and all parts. That’s the direction I’m leaning but I’d like to use my TC.
 
Ahhh... tops of the rear fender wells are pristine. You did good:cheers:

Here’s a good 2F discussion
"best" 2F

FJ40Jim said:
Mace,
If you had to pick one 2F to build, the 85-end models are best. They have all the upgrades of the 81-85, plus in 85 they got:

-the 3F cylinder head, which gives the option of running the 3F manifolds
-the 3F head gasket with better coolant flow direction
-screw in oil galley plugs (I really like this)
-slight improvement w/ the 3piece thrust bearing
-torx screws in timing plate(which should be added to any engine).

However, if you start w/ a 4230cc engine that is 8.3:1, then punch it 1.5mm OS, the result is 4367cc at 8.57:1. Usually the head is milled a little to clean up the face, which will get up to 8.7:1. If the engine is gonna be blown on, that's a pretty high CR, without modern feedback control systems.

The lightened valvetrain came along in mid 1979.

On the rods, newer is definitely better. As Mark mentioned, it's marginally lighter, but it's also much stronger because of the extra finishing on the I-beam.
I've got a picture here of the 79-earlier rod vs. the 80-later rod, but can't figger out how to post it.:doh:

If the engine is gonna be spun, it should be balanced to zero. Early 2F and all F engines are often out by several OUNCES. No, not grams. Rods are out by 20 grams or more, cranks off by 50, flywheels off by 30. The only thing that keeps a 1971 F engine together at speed is sheer stubbornness. The 81-newer engines were destined for cushy FJ60 wagons, so they finally started paying attention to balancing. They are usually only out by an ounce.

HTH
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