My rescue and recesitation of a 71 spring green 40.

[FJ40Jim]

If the 77 2F can be had reasonably, use it.
Use the 71 clutch, flywheel, release fork, pivotball, hydraulics.
If the 71 hydraulics are shot (probably), then use new 77 master & slave, bend a new hardline as needed, re-use 71 slave pushrod if needed.
77 BH & 4spd.
71 BH engine mounts for slave mounting and t-case shift linkage.
4spd-3pd t-case adapter gear, bearing, etc from @65swb45.
71 t-case for the lower low range and vacuum shift.
To make the swap easy, use the 71 manifolds, carb, air cleaner, exhaust sytem, etc. Also, it will guarantee that the brake MC and carb don't have interference.
77 points vac advance dissy.

The steering is good enough as-is, just grease the ends, refill SBX w/ gear oil, adjust slop out of center arm.

Brakes will need work. Rebuilding wheel cylinders is iffy, and new ones are expensive, so it might be worthwhile to go ahead and do a disc front knuckle upgrade right off the bat.

My work here is done. Get busy!

 

[thebigredrocker]

Yes, it's FJ40Jim, strange visitor from another planet, who came to Earth with powers and abilities far beyond those of mortal men. FJ40Jim, who can change the course of mighty cruisers, bend steel in his bare hands, and who, disguised as TLC Performance, mild-mannered mechanic from a great Ohio cruiser shop, fights a never-ending battle for truth, performance and the American way.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

Thank you Jim. I am going to print that little gem of a post out. Much appreciated!

 

[VTX78FJ40]

Yes, it's FJ40Jim, strange visitor from another planet, who came to Earth with powers and abilities far beyond those of mortal men. FJ40Jim, who can change the course of mighty cruisers, bend steel in his bare hands, and who, disguised as TLC Performance, mild-mannered mechanic for a great metropolitan cruiser shop, fights a never-ending battle for truth, performance and the American way.

Awesome. Seriously, awesome.

 

[cors]

nice find being so close.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

It really was. Got to spend a lot of time working on her this weekend. She is screaming to get back on the road and off the road. I haven't come up with a name yet, but I am working on it.

What kind of problems can I expect going with the 4 spd instead of the 3 spd tranny? I have read people mention clearance issues for tranny hump, as well as extreme difficulties on clutch changes. Anything else I should know? @FJ40Jim made it seem almost simple enough that I can do it.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The 4spd will put the t-case about an inch in front of the x- member. To change a clutch without surgery, pull the whole powerteam out the front and split tranny off engine out of truck.

But with a new pilot bearing, throwout bearing and disc, the clutch will last the life of the truck, so don't worry about it.

The 4spd will bump into the hump, which will need modified to clear. It's just sheetmetal, it can be cut, bent, screwed, welded, pop-riveted...

 

[65swb45]

Agreed. Take your time and do a thorough job on prepping the engine, clutch trans and transfer and it will be a LONG time until you have to worry about that cross member.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

I see. Mark, I just left you a VM about getting the needed parts for the install. I’m trying to get all of my ducks in a row here.

I will probably have some good help in doing this install. They are old vehicle people, just not land cruiser people. The mechanical knowledge will be top notch but very little knowledge specifically about these vehicles. So I am trying to get a detailed list together of what will need to be done for the successful install.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

Oh and would I need the driveshafts off the 77 as well?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, the 4spd shafts will be needed. For a sano installation, use 77 flange & drum on T-case.
Use diff pinion flanges off 77 as well, or use 71 d-shaft ends to build hybrid shafts w/ stronger 4 speed flange on one end and smaller 3 speed flange for diffs.

 

[65swb45]

Called back, twice.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

Called back, twice.

Sorry, my office has piss poor cell phone service. I tried calling you back probably 4 or 5 minutes after you called. I will call again.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

3 spd and TC along with the man made support the P.O. derived. It’s holding but I’m about to drop them down and start cleaning them up.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

Any veteran tips before I begin? I’m going to support it with a floor jack and start taking the bolts loose.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Taking what bolts loose? The trans is only bolted to the engine, which is missing. Ergo, the trans is not bolted to anything.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

There are several connections to the tranny that haven’t been taken loose yet. Shift cable or linkage maybe. My pictures don’t show it very well. Once those are loose, it looks like I need to separate it from the driveshafts.

 

[65swb45]

Nothing looks unusual here. Speedo cable is already cut. Hi-lo linkage disconnected. If parking brake cable is intact, you’d have to drop the rear driveshaft to get to the retainer nut for the drum. And that nut could be fussy to break loose with the trans hanging in the air.

 

[FJ40Jim]

It appears the park brake is missing entirely, which aids tranny removal.
Not so useful for actually parking & braking.

 

[65swb45]

It appears the park brake is missing entirely, which aids tranny removal.
Not so useful for actually parking & braking.

Ha! That’s what I get for viewing/typing on a cellphone!