Builds My R2.8 Cummins FJ40 (RJ40) daily driver build

[ArthurFJ]

Deaeration tank:
Water Header Tank, Vertical, 8" H x 4" Dia, without Cap - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
Had to cut and weld the mount to make it use existing holes that were on the firewall for something else.

I had never heard of a deaeration tank until this project. I assume that something about this engine causes air bubbles to form inside and that made Cummins think it was important enough to include in the book.

18-22 psi caps on both OE radiator and that tank. If I had two different caps I would run the lower pressure on the deaeration tank.
The cap pressure reliefs (red arrows) both go to a T under the plastic overflow tank and then into the bottom of that.
T and a 1/8" pipe nipple joining the two air outlets on the engine (red circle) into the top of the tank.
The 3/4" hose out of the bottom (blue arrow) of the tank goes to a T at the bottom radiator outlet into the engine.
I don't know what the fan is, bought it 15 years ago for a different Land Cruiser project and then pillaged it for this one. Probably got it from Summit. I haven't actually seen it come on yet.
I haven't had either cap vent on its own yet, but I have pulled the lever on the tank cap and had it blow air into the plastic res and then pull water back when it cools off. I only started driving it a couple of weeks ago and haven't had any hot days yet though.

Both the Murphy gauge and the Dakota Digital read out end up settling at 180 degrees, but the Dakota is about 5 minutes behind the Murphy.

I swear I'll start my own "Built Thread" eventually

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Thanks! I have the same set up aside from a few things:
- I don't have an overflow tank
- I don't have a pressure relief lid on my aeration tank
- The cap I have on my radiator doesn't have that red pressure relief thing

 

[ArthurFJ]

At what temperatures does everyone's fan kick on? I got my engine to 191 today, fan never came on as far as I could tell. I tapped into the fan high so I could see if it was +12v from inside the car and got nothing

 

[ArthurFJ]

Here's a video of my car at 70 mph. Gauge shows kph, but it's mph... not sure how to fix that.

R2.8-NV4500-411 gears in axle

 

[ArthurFJ]

Just wanted to give an update. I drove my car from Houston to Calgary last week. 2100 miles (well almost). I made it to within 60 miles of the border and my transmission blew up. Heard sort of a snapping sound and then huge grinding. Could barely get it out of 5th as I pulled to the shoulder. I got towed to the border, then limped the car across in 2nd, and then got a buddy to drive down from Calgary with a car dolly and tow me back. The cars in my garage at home while I research a decent transmission mechanic here in Calgary.

Some take aways from the drive before I broke down:
- Even after lizard skin, 1/4 insulation, and carpet, the car is LOUD. Mostly from the wind, but my engine (or maybe the trans) sort of gives of a low whistle. When I approach 3000 RPM it sounds like the world is coming to an end. I wore ear plugs for most of the trip. Good thing my stereo system is super loud too

- Steering is pretty squirrely. I dunno if it was the cross wind or ruts in the road but it was tough to keep straight. Do other people experience this? I'm using an FJ80 conversion for my steering btw

- Mileage average was 21 miles/gal. I was really expecting more from what I'd heard from people on this engine. My ave speed was 70 mph

 

[roma042987]

I got towed to the border, then limped the car across in 2nd, and then got a buddy to drive down from Calgary with a car dolly and tow me back. The cars in my garage at home while I research a decent transmission mechanic here in Calgary.

I've read this 5 times and having a hard time following. "garage at home" is that Houston like your location or are you from Calgary? or his home?

I had a similar thing happen when I broke down in Canada in Saskatchewan 2400 miles from home. Three days after finishing my diesel conversion so, I can relate. My biggest hurdle was getting my rig over the border and back home.

As far as your steering, it sounds like you don't have enough caster. Any caster shims installed?

 

[ArthurFJ]

I've read this 5 times and having a hard time following. "garage at home" is that Houston like your location or are you from Calgary? or his home?

I had a similar thing happen when I broke down in Canada in Saskatchewan 2400 miles from home. Three days after finishing my diesel conversion so, I can relate. My biggest hurdle was getting my rig over the border and back home.

As far as your steering, it sounds like you don't have enough caster. Any caster shims installed?

I'm Canadian and I live in Calgary. I was working down in the States on a 2 year visa. While I was down there I thought I'd fill in my free time by doing this build. I had no clue it was this much work...

Yeah caster. That makes sense. When I had the axles rebuilt I never even looked into changing up the caster/camber so I'm not sure what's in there.

 

[roma042987]

I'm Canadian and I live in Calgary. I was working down in the States on a 2 year visa. While I was down there I thought I'd fill in my free time by doing this build. I had no clue it was this much work...

Yeah caster. That makes sense. When I had the axles rebuilt I never even looked into changing up the caster/camber so I'm not sure what's in there.

Ah! that makes much more sense. Mine drove like that before I installed caster shims. I also have 60 series steering on mine, not that it plays into the issue you experienced. The caster shims go underneath the axle and sit on top of the leaf spring, rotating up the front of it (axle and more specifically steering arms) after it was rotated down some with the installation of the lift. Positive caster makes a drastic difference in how these trucks ride. I had a few cross country trips in my 40 before I fixed that issue and after a few hours on the road I always had white knuckles from being so nervous and over gripping the steering wheel. Now the steering wheel auto returns to center after a turn and tracks super straight without having to correct after bouncy over dips in the road.

 

[ArthurFJ]

Ah! that makes much more sense. Mine drove like that before I installed caster shims. I also have 60 series steering on mine, not that it plays into the issue you experienced. The caster shims go underneath the axle and sit on top of the leaf spring, rotating up the front of it (axle and more specifically steering arms) after it was rotated down some with the installation of the lift. Positive caster makes a drastic difference in how these trucks ride. I had a few cross country trips in my 40 before I fixed that issue and after a few hours on the road I always had white knuckles from being so nervous and over gripping the steering wheel. Now the steering wheel auto returns to center after a turn and tracks super straight without having to correct after bouncy over dips in the road.

Ok thanks again. I guess it doesn't affect your drive shaft angles too badly? Are you running a lift kit at all? I'm using 2.5 inch OME springs

 

[DangerNoodle]

Dang, I coulda met you down in the springs as you were passing through. Awesome build. Glad you made it back.

 

[ArthurFJ]

Dang, I coulda met you down in the springs as you were passing through. Awesome build. Glad you made it back.

Yeah I should've posted my route on here! Would've been great to see another one of these. Mine is the only one I've ever been in haha

 

[roma042987]

Ok thanks again. I guess it doesn't affect your drive shaft angles too badly? Are you running a lift kit at all? I'm using 2.5 inch OME springs

I have the same lift as well. No it doesnt affect the angles that much. Also being on the front axle that driveshaft isn't engaged much at higher speeds anyway. I believe with that size lift most people, myself included use 4 degree shims.

 

[ArthurFJ]

I have the same lift as well. No it doesnt affect the angles that much. Also being on the front axle that driveshaft isn't engaged much at higher speeds anyway. I believe with that size lift most people, myself included use 4 degree shims.

Ok. Thanks again! I'll definitely look into buying some after my trans is fixed

 

[amico]

Here's a video of my car at 70 mph. Gauge shows kph, but it's mph... not sure how to fix that.

R2.8-NV4500-411 gears in axle

Flashed by so fast couldn't read your tach, what rpm's running at 70 mph???

 

[amico]

Just wanted to give an update. I drove my car from Houston to Calgary last week. 2100 miles (well almost). I made it to within 60 miles of the border and my transmission blew up. Heard sort of a snapping sound and then huge grinding. Could barely get it out of 5th as I pulled to the shoulder. I got towed to the border, then limped the car across in 2nd, and then got a buddy to drive down from Calgary with a car dolly and tow me back. The cars in my garage at home while I research a decent transmission mechanic here in Calgary.

Some take aways from the drive before I broke down:
- Even after lizard skin, 1/4 insulation, and carpet, the car is LOUD. Mostly from the wind, but my engine (or maybe the trans) sort of gives of a low whistle. When I approach 3000 RPM it sounds like the world is coming to an end. I wore ear plugs for most of the trip. Good thing my stereo system is super loud too

- Steering is pretty squirrely. I dunno if it was the cross wind or ruts in the road but it was tough to keep straight. Do other people experience this? I'm using an FJ80 conversion for my steering btw

- Mileage average was 21 miles/gal. I was really expecting more from what I'd heard from people on this engine. My ave speed was 70 mph

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Your transmission was new or newly rebuilt wasn't it???
Wonder if that noise you were complaining about earlier had something to do with transmission failing.

 

[ArthurFJ]

Flashed by so fast couldn't read your tach, what rpm's running at 70 mph???

2200-2300 I think

 

[ArthurFJ]

Your transmission was new or newly rebuilt wasn't it???
Wonder if that noise you were complaining about earlier had something to do with transmission failing.

Yeah it came in good condition, still had a mechanic rebuild it just to be safe.

- Had a mechanic remove it because of the clutch rattle noise

- Then removed it again, myself this time, because I thought I might be able to find a proper clutch disc

- Had a mechanic remove it again because it was leaking fluid out of the front lower seal. I had the fluid replaced because the mechanic saw metal shavings/particles in it.

So, it's been removed from the built car 3 separate times already.. I can't believe I have to do it again. While it's apart I might look for a heavier flywheel and a heavier duty clutch disc. See if I can do away with that neutral idle noise once and for all.

 

[amico]

I wonder if that noise is inherent to the NV4500. I'm using the H55 I will eventually (i Hope) see how noisy mine is.

 

[DangerNoodle]

The NV should not be that loud, at least mine isn't. The stock cases are pretty whiny though.

 

[ArthurFJ]

The NV should not be that loud, at least mine isn't. The stock cases are pretty whiny though.

I've got a 1987 split case from a fj60. Do those whine pretty bad?

 

[DangerNoodle]

The split case should be much quieter than the single piece cases, but I'm not really sure.