Builds My R2.8 Cummins FJ40 (RJ40) daily driver build (1 Viewer)

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I just did this and the aluminum one is quite a bit narrower, so likely no mods required.

It is deeper at the front though, so closer to the third member.


Rear suspension is in and I found out I'm going to have an issue with my front drive shaft clearance and my oil pan.. I'm ordering an aluminum pan so i can section out the problem area. Major bummer but at least there's a solution. I should've mounted my engine closer to the driver side.

I couldn't find anything cheaper than the Torfab manifold for my AC compressor. That sucked too. $140. At least it's cheaper than Axis.

Anyway. Here are some update pictures.

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Hate to sound like I’m 15 but.......... “Man, this is COOOL!” :cheers:
 
Are the extra two circular holes in each side of the dash for HVAC? If so, how difficult was it to run the ducting in the limited space behind the dash?
 
It's getting there! But I don't think I'll fire it up until the painting is done and it's all assembled
Advice from @Mud_Guppie was get it running and drive it around the block before taking apart for paint. I am constantly going back and cutting, making holes, changing plans, which would mean ruined paint or at least much serious touch up.
 
Rear suspension is in and I found out I'm going to have an issue with my front drive shaft clearance and my oil pan.. I'm ordering an aluminum pan so i can section out the problem area. Major bummer but at least there's a solution. I should've mounted my engine closer to the driver side.

I couldn't find anything cheaper than the Torfab manifold for my AC compressor. That sucked too. $140. At least it's cheaper than Axis.

Anyway. Here are some update pictures.

View attachment 2220670

View attachment 2220671

View attachment 2220672

View attachment 2220673

View attachment 2220674
I see you snaked the cummins wiring around the brake booster.

I shortened it and come up just between the engine and brake booster. It was a real pain to do!!!

But I come through the firewall in about the same spot.

Did you delete the cowl vent? The cab side of the connector is kind of bendy into the bottom of the cowl vent. I think I might cut some of it away during painting.
 
Are the extra two circular holes in each side of the dash for HVAC? If so, how difficult was it to run the ducting in the limited space behind the dash?

Yessir. I used Y-connectors to split the air going to the defroster. I've got a dakota digital gauge that's pretty shallow so the driver side was fine. As for the passenger side I had to cut up the glove box a bit. I had to drill a hole for the duct and then remove and modify park of that piece with the air holes in it. I can take a better picture of that if you'd like.
 
Advice from @Mud_Guppie was get it running and drive it around the block before taking apart for paint. I am constantly going back and cutting, making holes, changing plans, which would mean ruined paint or at least much serious touch up.
yeah good point... maybe I'll get it going. Just drive it without the roof/doors/hardtop. It's so close to being at that point anyway...
 
I see you snaked the cummins wiring around the brake booster.

I shortened it and come up just between the engine and brake booster. It was a real pain to do!!!

But I come through the firewall in about the same spot.

Did you delete the cowl vent? The cab side of the connector is kind of bendy into the bottom of the cowl vent. I think I might cut some of it away during painting.
yeah man! I made that hole just thinking, "yeah it'll fit".. nope! I'm going to modify the firewall so that connector comes in horizontal instead of at an angle. My plan right now is to seal the cowl vent, but keep the drains. I think they look kinda cool just running into the trans tunnel like they do.
 
yeah man! I made that hole just thinking, "yeah it'll fit".. nope! I'm going to modify the firewall so that connector comes in horizontal instead of at an angle. My plan right now is to seal the cowl vent, but keep the drains. I think they look kinda cool just running into the trans tunnel like they do.
Yeah deleting the cowl vent is an all around good idea. I did that before I connected my cowl to the new tub.

That cowl vent on mine was sealed by the factory so all it did was create a nice place for moss and algae to encourage rust!!.

I cut a plate, welded it in there, metal finished and finishing putty it in place.

I wish now I had cut out some of the pan part inside. I think the connector through that angled part would be fine (and it even is now, I just have to loosen the nut, connect them and then re tighten.

It's a good way to get the cables up and out of the way. The vent ducts do take a lot of space now that I have the vintage air stuff in there.

I have shortened about everything in the wiring harness. It's a pain but worth it.
 
yeah good point... maybe I'll get it going. Just drive it without the roof/doors/hardtop. It's so close to being at that point anyway...
My plan is get as much as possible done (probably not the hardtop since I have to stretch it) heating, ac, power steering wiring, fuel, bumpers.

Then I know MOST of the cutting and changing will have to be behind me.
 
Cummins compressor with the cummins bracket, new belt, and tensioner
I'm using the same compressor (Cummins) do you have a model number and picture of the fittings that will work on the compressor and with the Vintage Air. I need to get mine and you can save me some research.
 
I'm using the same compressor (Cummins) do you have a model number and picture of the fittings that will work on the compressor and with the Vintage Air. I need to get mine and you can save me some research.

You bet.
5295582: Cummins® OEM Refrigerant Compressor : Compressor purchased from The Modern Shop (cause Cummins was out of stock)
R2.8 Turbo Diesel V-Belt for AC Compressor upfit 5254354 × 1 : $31.89
R2.8 Turbo Diesel Tensioner for AC Compressor upfit 5262500 × 1 : $28.90
R2.8 Turbo Diesel High AC Mount Mega Bracket × 1 : $50.44
Torfab AC Manifold: Cummins AC Manifold » Torfab » The NW destination for Land Cruisers parts and service, including complete one-off custom built Cruisers, maintenance, suspension, and expedition builds : $128 (way too expensive)

I also had to buy new bolts for the compressor. I just got a couple 8.8 grade bolts. I think 100 mm length. M12s maybe..?

Fittings are #10 and #8 from Vintage Air. I used a 45 degree (with fill valve) for the #8 and a 90 degree for the #10 fitting.

If you want to try and save money on the AC manifold I'll help you in whatever way I can. You need anything MIC'd or better pics let me know!

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