My Mini-truck Power Steering Install (2 Viewers)

[Romer]

yes, i think it was the left one

im running the same setup as you Ken, any idea on cost?

http://www.jtoutfitters.com/product/RLGN $29

You can get it cheaper from CDAN. He is doing Inventory so go to the vendors section and call the 1-800 number listed for getting ahold of CDAN. Tell any of the parts guys your from IH8MUD and you should be able to get it cheaper

 

[FJ40onNOS]

http://www.jtoutfitters.com/product/RLGN $29

You can get it cheaper from CDAN. He is doing Inventory so go to the vendors section and call the 1-800 number listed for getting ahold of CDAN. Tell any of the parts guys your from IH8MUD and you should be able to get it cheaper

No, i have that part, i need to brass nipple that goes between that and the box, so it does not leak. (washers dont work and mine leaks)

 

[Romer]

You can still call CDANs or any Toyota parts place and get what you need. You might want to take the nipple off and go into the part counter. NAPA or other part stores might have it as well.

 

[FJ40onNOS]

You can still call CDANs or any Toyota parts place and get what you need. You might want to take the nipple off and go into the part counter. NAPA or other part stores might have it as well.

thank Rom, and Napa around here trys to sell me heep parts so i gave up on them for parts.

 

[FJ40onNOS]

well, the guy at the local toy dealer, got me my nipples, or as toyota calls them "S Port Seats", Great guy

 

[trucruiser]

Great writeup Romer, Thanks to you i am pretty close to having the confidence to do this as well.

 

[AZkick-n40]

Has anyone done this for a late 60's or early 70's rig? Any additional mods required?

 

[Pin_Head]

Has anyone done this for a late 60's or early 70's rig? Any additional mods required?

Yes, early cruisers have the one piece steering shaft, so you either have to cut it and weld on a rag joint coupler or replace the steering column with a later model.

The nice thing about cutting and welding is that you can get the length right. The PS box is 3/4 inch longer than the manual one, so the stock manual steering column will need to be spaced closer to the driver.

 

[AZkick-n40]

Yes, early cruisers have the one piece steering shaft, so you either have to cut it and weld on a rag joint coupler or replace the steering column with a later model.

The nice thing about cutting and welding is that you can get the length right. The PS box is 3/4 inch longer than the manual one, so the stock manual steering column will need to be spaced closer to the driver.

So if my math serves me correctly, then I would need to cut 3/4" + length of the rag joint coupler? Is that correct?

How about pulley's?

Brian

 

[hudyhue]

nice thread, i had the same qeustions i have a 66, sounds like somthing i can do!

 

[REZARF]

Thanks Romer for this write up, I think it should live in the tech section.

I did some research today and found the pulley and bushing at Grainger (spent quite some time with their tech department) and they cross referenced the Martin Sprocket pulley and bushing and gave me their part numbers.

Pulley: #3x586
Cost: $21.64

Bushing: #3x573
Cost: $4.53

Just thought I would post it up.

Rezarf <><

 

[1973Guppie]

anyone know if you can do this on a 1970 FJ55? any difference from the fj40's? Also, how about doing it with a tilt column? I was thinking I may put in a tilt column on the 55 build I will be doing, depending on how I like the stock column setup, look and fit while sitting in the drivers seat.

Noah

 

[El Jefe]

Nice writeup and pics! This is on the list for my winter projects...

 

[REZARF]

Step 7:
Bolt the new Power Steering Gearbox Bracket to the Frame using the holes were you removed the rivets.

Romer, how the heck did you reach behind the frame with the headers in place? Anyone? I have about 3/4" of clearance and cannot get my fat fingers inside the frame to save my life.

If I loosen my headers won't I need to get a new gasket?

thanks-

Rezarf <><

 

[surfpig]

anyone know if you can do this on a 1970 FJ55? any difference from the fj40's? Also, how about doing it with a tilt column? I was thinking I may put in a tilt column on the 55 build I will be doing, depending on how I like the stock column setup, look and fit while sitting in the drivers seat.

Noah

Get ahold of Lance of Iron Pig Offroad, he can probably tell you, he was very helpful with my little issues. My guess is that you'll need to do the same as with a 40 of that vintage.

 

[Fman]

Just because I am curious....

How does the pump hold up with the heat from the headers? In the picture it looks very close to the headers. And why would you go with a mini-truck setup over a saginaw ps conversion?

Step 10:
Install the pitman arm if not already there and use the reverse of step 2 to get it back in the linkage. Note: You may need to do this before bolting the gearbox down depending on how much room you have.

Step 11:
Use a piece of string to measure how long the fan belt should be. Add 1-2” to compensate for the thickness of the belt. I also picked up a cap for the PS Pump as it did not come with one.

Step 12:
Install the 3/8” return line using clamps at both sides. Then install the High Pressure line (Order doesn’t matter). Fill the Pump with Fluid.

 

[Degnol]

Just because I am curious....

How does the pump hold up with the heat from the headers? In the picture it looks very close to the headers. And why would you go with a mini-truck setup over a saginaw ps conversion?

Because it is a good intermediate system for an "average" guy to install. No welding. No cutting of the front crossmember. Essentially a bolt-on conversion.
Generally thought of as powerful enough to manage 35" tires in mild wheeling situations.
I have had no issues with header heat and (I presume you meant the gearbox, not the pump) the box or pump, but I also installed a generic transmission cooler in the return line.
If you are going to run tires larger than 35's, or install a front locker or wheel it hard, you might want to go Saginaw from the get-go.

Gl

Ed

 

[rundm]

This is great information. I might even attempt to do it myself. RG

 

[Fman]

Because it is a good intermediate system for an "average" guy to install. No welding. No cutting of the front crossmember. Essentially a bolt-on conversion.
Generally thought of as powerful enough to manage 35" tires in mild wheeling situations.
I have had no issues with header heat and (I presume you meant the gearbox, not the pump) the box or pump, but I also installed a generic transmission cooler in the return line.
If you are going to run tires larger than 35's, or install a front locker or wheel it hard, you might want to go Saginaw from the get-go.

Gl

Ed

Yes, sorry I was referring to the gearbox. Looks like a nice, clean installation.

Fman

 

[rundm]

Ttt