Builds My LC 80 thread. (5 Viewers)

[Dave 2000]

This weekend saw the install of a 150 amp alternator, Blue Seas split charger, and NL battery monitor

So get the ready:

Well I got to work with installing the above components, whilst in there I also replaced all the battery cables and put in a heavier alternator cable. All cables were run down and behind the radiator so there are no cables running over the fan shroud, the heavier gauge will allow for the extra distance. Later I plan to try twin electric fans and did not want the cables flapping about in mid air when the shroud is removed. The alternator was a breeze to fit, just a simple mod to the adjuster bracket saw it all done and dusted, I have ‘lost’ the bolt adjustment and have to adjust with the ‘old fashioned’ method. I will at a later date fab up something that gives me back the bolt adjust which would make maintenance easier in the future. I did not manage to renew the starter cable so that can be done when the contacts are changed, incidentally the non start situation I experienced a few weeks back has still to rear it’s ugly head?

The Blue seas split charger was another easy install, it is great unit that senses either battery being charged, if I connect a mains charger (or any charging source) to either battery whether the ignition is on or not the batteries will parallel so they both get charged. I plan to fit a solar panel at a later date and the obvious objective is to have the batteries receiving a charge if the engine is running or not (daylight of course), this should result in batteries being maintained at peak charge. This particular split charger also allows you to parallel batteries for hard starting scenarios (remember my car has a 12 volt starter) but the parallel function will not parallel if it detects one of the batteries has a very low voltage, this prevents the ‘bad’ or faulty battery pulling down the good one. As per marine guidelines this parallel function can also be initiated by manualy pushing down a button on top of the unit. I hope not to need it as the idea of having the now ‘spare’ battery is to run a fridge/camping lights ect.

The NL battery monitor was fitted to the right of the gearstick and the Blue Seas override switch just below, as with pretty much any small LED’s they are difficult to see in the daylight/sun on the NL unit, fitting them as I have means they are pretty much shaded by the overhang of the dashboard but are perfect to see at a glance whilst driving, having said that the unit has an alarm for over/under voltage so I doubt it will get looked at that much but it is a functional and tidy looking unit. I do not really like the idea of gauge duplication (two volt meters for the main battery) but of course the NL unit is graduated and of course works without the ignition being on so the true battery voltages are shown so the condition of the batteries can be seen before starting/charging ect. The new wheel studs/nuts along with the starter contacts have yet to arrive from Toyota but I still have some other things to do, the extra interior light for the rear has to be fitted as does the cable for the ‘shark fin ariel, I also need to run some heavy cable to the rear to power the extras. I still need to find some decent batteries and as Bosch do a good range over here I thought I would perhaps get a good deal but need some advice before fitting however, trying to get information from there tech dept is like getting blood from a stone! Other than that it was a productive weekend, hopefully I will get the time to do some more next week?

Regards

Dave

 

[Tapage]

did you use the tundra alt .?

 

[Dave 2000]

did you use the tundra alt .?

IIRC as it was months ago it arrived yes. I will dig out the paperwork when I arrive home next week Tapage and give the details, I think it was a 4.7 litre Tundra? And the guy only had new units but still a lot cheaper than Toyota.


regards

Dave

 

[Tapage]

IIRC as it was months ago it arrived yes. I will dig out the paperwork when I arrive home next week Tapage and give the details, I think it was a 4.7 litre Tundra? And the guy only had new units but still a lot cheaper than Toyota.


regards

Dave

I use 150 amps Tundra alt in my 1HD-T but I keep the factory adjuster ..

 

[Dave 2000]

Hmmmm what am I missing here? I appear to have the same alternator but I it did not appear to have the adjuster 'ear' in the right place? I was thinking about rotating the alternator body halves but was reluctant because if I had a problem I would have been unsure if I had a faulty alternator from the shop or if I damaged it taking it apart. Perhaps I have over read the bracket install stuff on the petrol versions? When I get the time I will pull out the alternator and have another look, I have a spare bracket so maybe I will rotate the casing and try your idea? I did managed to use the stock belts though.

EDIT: Having looked at the picture in post #4 in your thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/397209-marilu-upgrades-ver-2010-a.html and the adjusting bracket you have is different to the one in my 80? The alternator 'ears' though are in the same place as mine, it is the difference in the brackets that is the issue. My bracket hits the top of the alternator case which prevents the bolt passing through the adjuster slot, I tried grinding it down some but it left the bracket a little weak looking for comfort. I can 'fiddle' at a later date when I have more time, BTW that really is a great looking truck!


regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

So time for a late update, I have had communication problems the last few weeks, first the laptop died, then the mobile died, then I replaced the laptop and phone then spent nearly three weeks in the mountains with no internet access! So to the car, the alternator/split charger/dual battery monitor has worked fine to date, the starter contacts have arrived but not yet fitted, no further starter issues but have kept them in the car just in case. Have been starting fine early hours of the morning in -2 degrees C, not quite Siberia but shows the starter stilll works, this is with my little batteries combined. I change the oil on the 9th of this month @ 211,356 miles, I had two 650 miles runs within a couple of days of each other so got it done a little early. I noted on one morning despite being a little on the cold side the temp gauge was showing more or less in the middle, a little higher than normal? Just in case I have bought a new OE thermostat and gasket and will get that fitted when I return from the UK in the new year. I may have to give up on the Optima batteries, they are stupid prices over here, it seems that Exide do a dual purpose so might give that ago. If I cannot get them then I will buy a couple of 'mickey mouse' batteries in an effort to confirm my 12v setup works with one decent battery. After having a wheel stud break for no apparent reason I replaced all six on the same wheel, I can only assume that some time in the past they have been over tightened? The dashboard clock has been taken out and replaced with a out/in digital temp gauge, looks almost factory, I just need to to sort out the colour that it shows at night, it is a pale blue and does not sit well with the general green of the rest of the dash illumination. The rest of the dash bulbs and the odd switch also got new bulbs, the ariel has been taken out and a 'shark fin' type with an amplifier fitted to the rear roof area.

That's it for now,

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update time, well the winter hit us a little harder than normal with -4 frosts in the morning (I was staying with friends in the mountains), I did purchase two new batteries (XV 27) from Alphaline. This link shows the spec on a UK site Alphaline / n/a / Battery. They just fit in lengthwise and the terminals are the marine type, this gives you an extra stud to run other cables from leaving the main cables uncluttered with extra connections hanging from them. I did manage to source an outlet in Spain and at a decent price including delivery and put them in the garage for a couple of days while I then got a bit more carried away with the testing knowing they were there ready and waiting.

Right to the 12 volt mod, I have found over the last few months the normal mode during the milder months would show the Blue Seas split charger still engaged (batteries parallel) in the morning even though the alarm had been set all night. As winter drew in the Blue Seas disengaged sometime during the night leaving the alarm pulling on the one battery, this would keep the starter battery fresh. I did have reason to leave the car overnight in -8 degrees which again is not that cold and I tried starting the engine on the one battery during these mornings and although the engine did crank slowly about one turn it still started ok, keep in mind I do not have the cold start device on my engine although the glow plugs are still connected.

By pushing the override switch the engine cranked pretty much as normal, remember the later 100 with the similar engine uses a 12 volt starter so I did not expect anything to be different. I have now fitted the two new batteries and despite the cold mornings the batteries are still in parallel after standing outside all night. I just get in and crank in the normal way and there is no hesitation in starting. I have obviously tried cranking on the one battery and the crank speed is quicker than my old tired batteries but then the new batteries I chose have a 900 cranking amp capacity, and of course 105 amps reserve hence the system staying in parallel all night, worth noting is these are dual 'start/deep cycle' batteries so the fridge should be happy. I think I have sourced a brand new starter that will match my requirements because the unit in there at the moment is something I made up for test purposes. All in all the 24 to 12 volt modification seems to be working out fine, I have eliminated one of the components (changeover solenoid) and of course have not had to find space for a third battery, yesterday a stroke of luck brought me a gift of an old but apparently working solar panel. This will eventually be wired into the aux battery (via a charge controller), and as the Blue Seas split charger is 'dual sense' will allow the solar panel to bring the 'fridge' battery to a charged state and then it will parallel the batteries so even when parked when camping both batteries will be kept charged.

I still plan to fit an eberspacher unit to warm the RTT and the engine coolant, this will be used if I decide to go to Russia to do some camping...........er not.

In my last post I pointed out that the engine temp appeared to be a little hotter than normal, well the temp is still sitting in the middle despite the colder weather but I have not had a lot of 'my car' time lately to fit the thermostat. At the same time I will be fitting the 'T' in the bottom hose to take a connection to a tank which will have a low water level indicator, not having this fitted at the factory IMO this was a poor decision on the part of Mr T.

Having been busy the only other thing I did was to fit the bigger front pads designed for the later 100 series Landcruiser, more material and so should last a little longer, I have not really noticed any extra braking power but then have not really tried that hard, the pads are still bedding in but 'feel' ok.

Other than that the car continues to run fine as my daily driver, the miles are clocking up so another oil change is coming due next month.

regards

Dave

EDIT: Oil changed 2 March 2012 @ 217,009

 

[photomike]

Dave,

Do you have any pics of the Blue Seas setup? About to do this same mod but on a US Spec truck.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[Dave 2000]

Dave,

Do you have any pics of the Blue Seas setup? About to do this same mod but on a US Spec truck.

Cheers,
Mike

Hi, does the US spec have a 24v starter? If so then copying this modification will not work, if you have a 12v system then no problem. I will grab a couple of pics when I get five minutes and post them up.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update time again. Nothing to report really, I have been ultra busy and again the car has had to take second place in my schedule, as my daily driver/workhorse/airport taxi I have clocked up plenty of miles in the last couple of months. I changed the oil/filter again, that's about 8 weeks and 5000 miles, this included a run to the North of Spain and back twice in one week! The temp gauge had dropped down of it's own accord so unsure what is happening there but I will fit the new stat anyway. I changed the oil and filter again last week @ 220,000 miles. These really are true mile eating machines and this one never fails to impress. My old Engel 40 litre fridge however decided that the motor would fail, whilst looking for a new motor, a friend emailed me a link to a tent he thought I would be interested in, it was not for me however, the advert below the tent was for an old but apparently immaculate Indel Isotherm 45 litre fridge. An email and a 30 minute drive along the coast netted me a clean and tidy working fridge with transformer to use with mains if need be, all for the princely sum of 55 euros or for those over the pond $73.00 a no brainer right?

So the solar panel got tested and works great, the fridge works great, and of course the car is great, so all in all I'm a happy bunny.

Photomike, sorry mate I forgot you completely, I will pop out over the weekend and get those pics for you.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Dave,

Do you have any pics of the Blue Seas setup? About to do this same mod but on a US Spec truck.

Cheers,
Mike

Better late than never Mike.........sorry for the delay, under bonnet first, inside follows.

The under bonnet shows the Aux battery that runs my fridge, this is on the right when viewed from the rear of the car (drivers side UK), I ran the battery cabling under the existing radiator shroud, this not only tidied it up across the rad it also makes way for my proposed electric fan install at a later date. The start battery Blue Seas marine switch, this can be operated manualy in the event that the changeover battery is flat, there is also a lockout facility as well. You can see a small bundle of wires that need to be covered once I have finished the loom binding from the solar panel as I may need access to them at a later date.


regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

These are the centre console pics I mentioned, as you can see I use the NL dual battery monitor, note this is NOT the charge controller version.

The Red switch you see comes with the Blue Seas charge controller, in the middle (auto) position it does everything you could ask for. The engine starts from the left battery (nearest to starter = short cable run) as the start battery charges the controller recognises this and engages, this brings in the Aux battery. When the engine is off and the start battery shows a discharge below a certain threshold (alarm, fridge ect) it is separated from the Aux, it reconnects whenever the voltage rises again.

I also have a solar panel that fits in the roof rack connected to a regulator and then to the Aux battery, when parked camping I slide the panel out on runners over the bonnet area. In this position it never gets knocked about and is only shaded if turned away from the sun (but still produces a few amps). Once the Blue Seas charge controller registers the Aux battery charge rising it then engages and thus brings the starter battery into the solar charging circuit. Appears to work great, the batteries are dual purpose start/crank marine versions however, to be honest I would be inclined to replace them every 2/3 years, batteries out in the hot never seem to last very long unless of course you want to pay Optima prices, and even they have had mixed reviews.

The NL battery monitor LED's are fairly easy to see as the unit is tucked slightly forward and under the dash so is shaded, either way there is an alarm for under/over charge conditions so no big deal. The Red switch can be used to force the batteries to parallel/auto/isolate.

Again apologies for the delay Mike

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Small problems

Well weekend before last was fun, as I was driving through a remote unlit narrow track a little after midnight through some just as remote mountains with serious drop offs, the main beam relay decided it wanted a holiday! This is the changeover relay from dip to main however, I found the dip beam went out as well, I was not going very fast and nothing more than a minor heart attack was felt. I flicked the headlight flasher a few times and dip beam was restored, as I still had about two miles before I reached a more open area where it was safe to stop and park I thought dip was better than nothing so left the lever well alone. The following day showed the relay had melted but the connectors in the fuse box were still in pretty good shape. Of course I had to wait for a few days before a replacement was found at the dealers. The electrical gremlins did not stop there though, the starter decided it was going to 'click' numerous times (10-15) before it would crank, now this is my modded 12v starter I put in around a year back (is it really that long ago?) anyway I expected the usual burnt contacts ect but no they were in perfect condition except for a thin film of grease over them. You may recall I had rebuilt an old unit and make one good from two? Well it seems the liberal amount of grease I had used on the plunger spring/pushrod/ball bearing had migrated down the plunger and contaminated the contacts. Just for good measure I fitted the new ones (resizing the plunger ect) I had in the spares box and all was well, the old ones were cleaned and thrown in the expedition spares box ready as easy fit spares. I think as the mod has been so pretty much glitch free as has the split charger/150 amp alternator ect I will now purchase the proper 12v unit and call it done.

The headlamp relay arrived and was fitted during last week and all again is well within the Land Cruiser household, some minor glitches for what is an 18 year old vehicle is not too shabby eh?

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Well 'Tanque' has been officially imported and all taxes due have been paid, she now sports a spanish registration, she was then taken in for the second annual inspection and lo and behold I had fitted a sunroof since the first inspection !!!!!

Of course I had not, the sunroof is OE but it seems the engineer who did the first import inspection had not noticed it hence it was not marked on the paperwork, yes it is true, the paperwork had to be altered to reflect this. I also pointed out that I want to remove the rear seats permanently, I showed the inspector that it is a simple push button affair but no, it seems I have to go to the main stealership and request a document, this document will state that removal of the seats permanently will not result in structural degradation or instability of the vehicle

The problem is as follows:

As my car left the factory for the UK with 8 seats it seems this is illegal in spain, the maximum allowed is 7, any more and it is a mini-bus. My insurance company only insures a maximum of 7 passengers (car), due to the 1.5 split I cannot remove 1 seat (which would be illegal anyway), so there you have it, the car is illegal in a legal sort of way, or is it the other way around?

When I get the time I am going into Toyota and get the damn certificate to remove the seats and hopefully put an end to the pretty pointless papwerwork this generates.

Of course the 80 passed the inspection with flying colours so now in my third year of ownership and still very pleased with this awesome machine, nothing else to report.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Hi all, easy question, nothing major but those following this thread may recall in September last year I had a rattle from the exhaust as one of the mounts had failed? I decided at the time to replace all of them and lo and behold not a year later the exhaust is rattling again! Now I know I live up a hill with a rough track and the fact I have spent time replacing neighbours suspension parts that have failed on their 'normal' cars due to the access up the hill being somewhat rough, but less than a year on OE mounts, anyone else experienced such a short life?

regards

Dave 2000

 

[Dave 2000]

226,500 miles and have changed the oil and filter. I have always uses OE filters but the main stealer has closed down and the nearest is now a 3 plus hour round trip! I decided to track down an alternative filter and decided Bosch would be the go, OE spec anti drain ect.

My local shop who although he is not a Bosch stockist agreed to get me the Bosch part however, I had to buy a minimum of five at a time. This is no problem as I reckon on changing around 3 a year and always take a spare when I'm off roading.

Costwise the Bosch units will work out cheaper @ 15 euros each which today is $19.55 in the 'across the pond' currency, unsure how that works out with you guys?

Oil used at the moment is Repsol 10/40 Tdi/Gti semi synthetic another good deal with 10 litres being 40 euros ($52.00) as oil is very expensive here in Spain.

Other than I am still waiting for another set of exhaust rubber mounts which leaves nothing else to report.

When time permits the altimeter and sub tank gauges will go in I need to do some greasing/change fuel/air filters.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Exhaust follow up

You may recall the problem with the exhaust mounts failing after just one year?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/610443-exhaust-mounts.html

Well after getting down and dusty under the ol girl I found the following, the mounts had not actually failed as in the rubber parting from the metal backing but they were crushed on one side? I found the noise is the exhaust hitting the cross member above the back axle, the exhaust was rotating to the left when pulled downwards. I can only assume that at some time I have hit/bent it somewhere and now there is the slightest twist? I have checked the engine mounts and no movement when pushed and pulled with a medium pry bar so no concern there. The flex joint near the front is good sooooo. For the moment I replaced the centre of the three mounts but I spaced it upwards slightly, this spacing is about an eigth of an inch, it is that small an amount.

Of note is I found the exhaust mount is the same as used on the older 4.0 Land Cruiser which gave me the inclination to look through the parts catalogue for awhile. The part cross refences with the Renault Safrane of all vehicles and I got the part from a manufacturer (in Spain) called 'Klarius' with part number:

420196 followed by TYR28AV

So I need to make a decent spacer plate which will come from the old mount, I have some time at home soon so will do it then.

Nothing else to report,

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Well some free time last week so I fitted the overhead console with the sub tank gauge (just got to get the tank now) and altimeter. I also done a super short stint since the last oil change and done it again at 229,067, the oil is spotless! I had in the past removed the cigarette lighter and replaced it with a 12v output point capable of 20 amps which is a lot higher than the standard ciggy lighter can handle. This was fine as I simply cut off the ciggy plugs that came with phone chargers/sat navs ect and fitted the matching male plug and all was well however, new 'stuff' comes with special electronics ect built into the actual device plug, it is no longer possible to simply cut off the plug full of electronics and fit a normal 12v plug. Soooo, I had to refit a ciggy lighter. I chose the space below the front/rear diff locker switch, I hope not to have to use it but for peace of mind and in case I forget to charge my new Samsung S3 which has the USB plug type adaptor.

Heavy cable has now been run from the aux battery to the rear load space for the fridge and other odds and ends that need power down that end of the 80.

Next week should see new brake shoes fitted for the handbrake.

That's all for now.

regards

Dave

 

[86tuning]

Ever get your rear seat issues sorted out? I'd just remove the center belt from the 3rd row and call it 'done'.

 

[kevsta]

Ever get your rear seat issues sorted out? I'd just remove the center belt from the 3rd row and call it 'done'.

Hi Dave. interested in this as Im in Spain too, and I've just bought a UK one that the PO got through the ITV just as I bought it, he said he argued with them and they put it down as 8 seats, and that's what it shows on the 3 grey papers that he got back from Madrid.

so are you saying that this is going to cause insurance difficulties? its currently down as 5 seats anyway because I didn't even know it had the rear seats when I bought it lol. as they're folded up and not used I thought I'd just alter it when I have to re-insure with the new Spanish plates.

would also be interested in knowing the cost as close as you recall for the import paperwork. was the best part of 1100 Euros to import my beloved 2.8 Audi, not including the COC and ITV.

obviously this time the PO did that for me.