SteelHunterFJ80
SILVER Star
Looks great! I hope this is the solution for you to keep your cruiser topped off electricity wise. Odd that you didn't find a parasitic draw.
Builds My LC 80 thread.
- Thread starter Dave 2000
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #622
Thanks.
Yes it is odd indeed to say the least. I am used to finding modern vehicle electronics take ages to shut down, sometimes over an hour! But the 80 is way too old to have these kind of systems.
I plugged the new solar panel in last night whilst it is dark, today it has been very overcast and no real sunlight to speak of. I went out and checked the batteries, both are showing 12.9 volts, they have of course combined as the voltage on the aux battery has reached the VSR demand voltage during the day, so testing at the moment would be pointless. I will check in the morning, as a note to anyone following this, the solar panels that are normally used do have diodes preventing the batteries discharging through night time hours, whilst the Blue Solar also has diode protection as well. The new panel has not been opened up to check for a diode but the imbalance of the batteries has been seen with the new panel disconnected.
I will check the battery voltages tomorrow morning before there is sufficient daylight to initiate the charge process.
Many thanks.
Regards
Dave
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #623
And the answer is no! I completely forgot to check the batteries this morning, a classic blonde moment! I have just arrived home and as per yesterday it is very grey and overcast, both batteries in parallel via the VSR and showing 13.6 volts. The Bluetooth dongle saves opening the garage and checking, and the app gives you other info, one thing it did point out is the solar charger is in 'bulk' mode, so whilst the batteries are not fully charged they are for want of a better word being 'held' at 13.6 volts.
Many thanks for keeping up.
Regards
Dave
Many thanks for keeping up.
Regards
Dave
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #624
We had around three hours of sunlight today and at five this evening I checked the charge state. 13.9 volts and on 'float'.
So it did not take long for the batteries to pass through 'bulk' and into float mode today so the system seems to be working OK. If I get a chance over the weekend I will disconnect the solar panels and look again for that discharge to see if it has returned.
The batteries will be more than ready for any tests.
Regards
Dave
So it did not take long for the batteries to pass through 'bulk' and into float mode today so the system seems to be working OK. If I get a chance over the weekend I will disconnect the solar panels and look again for that discharge to see if it has returned.
The batteries will be more than ready for any tests.
Regards
Dave
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #625
A quick update.
Today overcast and very cloudy with the occasional fall of rain, it was around 09.30 before the roof top panel had sufficient voltage to trigger the charger to start charging, but within around 35 minutes the charger switched from 'bulk' to 'float' holding both batteries around 13.8 volts. So for the moment all seems to be well. I am at home all day tomorrow so the moment I notice the bulk charge turns to float and I shall disconnect the panel and periodical check the battery voltage throughout the day, I will be looking for the parasitic draw again, things like this stop me resting about the 80's status, mainly because the the remote areas I travel in.
Many thanks for following.
Regards
Dave
Today overcast and very cloudy with the occasional fall of rain, it was around 09.30 before the roof top panel had sufficient voltage to trigger the charger to start charging, but within around 35 minutes the charger switched from 'bulk' to 'float' holding both batteries around 13.8 volts. So for the moment all seems to be well. I am at home all day tomorrow so the moment I notice the bulk charge turns to float and I shall disconnect the panel and periodical check the battery voltage throughout the day, I will be looking for the parasitic draw again, things like this stop me resting about the 80's status, mainly because the the remote areas I travel in.
Many thanks for following.
Regards
Dave
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #626
Some updates to catch up with:
Today @ 282,052 miles so 2,348 miles covered since January, I done the usual sacrificial oil change, two oil filters (Mahle OC 275) and 20 litres of oil, that consisted of 10 litres of 10/40 fully synthetic, I also put in a new air filter, once the engine was run the fully synthetic was drained out and discarded and with a new filter I refilled with 10/40 mineral oil that has the new 'synthetic blend', readers will remember the grief this caused as the 'updated' synthetic blend actually makes the engine run at a lower pressure, so much for the control of engine grades! Anyway I can now only get the Repsol brand with the update, the old style all mineral oil is no longer available.
Re the parasitic draw/loss......it's gone, I have checked for a loss three times and failed to find any problems? Anyone who has chased electrical issues will know how frustrating this is, only once since I did the checks did I think the problem was back but I never had time to get the meter out and start looking, since then no issues, go figure.
The garage mods have been finally completed, last year the garage door of the new abode was too low to get the 80 in with the roof rack with tent and usual stuff you find up there. So the garage door was removed along with the lintel and lifted up enough to allow the car to go in with the rack on, the problem then was the rack when suspended from the roof was clear of me working in there but not for one r two of my friends, whilst I have yet to be sued there would no doubt an injury for someone tall enough to get caught on the legs of the rack where they sit in the 80 rain gutter.
So it was decided that as I had very little work due to the virus I should take the opportunity to remove the roof, cut out the 'viga's' (cross beams) and then add two more courses of blocks, cement in the removed beams higher up and adding another to line up with the roof rack lifting attachments and then replace the roof. There you go so easy when you write it all in two and a bit lines! Unfortunately the viga's were right up against the tiles inside the granny annex bathroom and they came away from the wall, and further along in the same building a hole appeared in the kitchen wall! WTF! Fortunately I have some good friends who were soon in there lending a hand and before long the whole mess was brought under control. The garage has been completely rewired and the water heater for the granny annex has been moved to the far right corner, there is new LED lighting as well. Before the mods there was a very small window (meshed but no glass) which supplied ventilation, and I removed it with a view (again no pun intended) to fitting a larger one, now I am not so sure I want a window in there but all garages need ventilation so unsure whether if it will be a window or a grill of some kind, but it must be addressed.
It's good to have many of my customers returning from the UK to Spain so I have some revenue coming in, I will be glad to put this year behind me.
On a brighter note, whenever the 80 has been called on no matter how long it has stood it starts first turn and again delivers unerring reliability.
Thanks for reading and keeping up.
Regards
Dave
Today @ 282,052 miles so 2,348 miles covered since January, I done the usual sacrificial oil change, two oil filters (Mahle OC 275) and 20 litres of oil, that consisted of 10 litres of 10/40 fully synthetic, I also put in a new air filter, once the engine was run the fully synthetic was drained out and discarded and with a new filter I refilled with 10/40 mineral oil that has the new 'synthetic blend', readers will remember the grief this caused as the 'updated' synthetic blend actually makes the engine run at a lower pressure, so much for the control of engine grades! Anyway I can now only get the Repsol brand with the update, the old style all mineral oil is no longer available.
Re the parasitic draw/loss......it's gone, I have checked for a loss three times and failed to find any problems? Anyone who has chased electrical issues will know how frustrating this is, only once since I did the checks did I think the problem was back but I never had time to get the meter out and start looking, since then no issues, go figure.
The garage mods have been finally completed, last year the garage door of the new abode was too low to get the 80 in with the roof rack with tent and usual stuff you find up there. So the garage door was removed along with the lintel and lifted up enough to allow the car to go in with the rack on, the problem then was the rack when suspended from the roof was clear of me working in there but not for one r two of my friends, whilst I have yet to be sued there would no doubt an injury for someone tall enough to get caught on the legs of the rack where they sit in the 80 rain gutter.
So it was decided that as I had very little work due to the virus I should take the opportunity to remove the roof, cut out the 'viga's' (cross beams) and then add two more courses of blocks, cement in the removed beams higher up and adding another to line up with the roof rack lifting attachments and then replace the roof. There you go so easy when you write it all in two and a bit lines! Unfortunately the viga's were right up against the tiles inside the granny annex bathroom and they came away from the wall, and further along in the same building a hole appeared in the kitchen wall! WTF! Fortunately I have some good friends who were soon in there lending a hand and before long the whole mess was brought under control. The garage has been completely rewired and the water heater for the granny annex has been moved to the far right corner, there is new LED lighting as well. Before the mods there was a very small window (meshed but no glass) which supplied ventilation, and I removed it with a view (again no pun intended) to fitting a larger one, now I am not so sure I want a window in there but all garages need ventilation so unsure whether if it will be a window or a grill of some kind, but it must be addressed.
It's good to have many of my customers returning from the UK to Spain so I have some revenue coming in, I will be glad to put this year behind me.
On a brighter note, whenever the 80 has been called on no matter how long it has stood it starts first turn and again delivers unerring reliability.
Thanks for reading and keeping up.
Regards
Dave
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #627
Yesterday I brimmed the tank as I have a couple of airport runs to do for friends. So with the mileage noted at 282,201 I picked up a friend and took her to the airport. Returning home I stopped in town and brimmed the tank again at 282,330 to see what the motor had used to cover 129 miles (imp), and the mileage works out at 28.28 miles to the gallon. This was at a steady 60 - 65 MPH mostly motorway and the full length roof rack loaded with:
RTT, 60" high lift, two sand ladders, two x 20 litre Jerry cans (empty), and a spare wheel!
I will eventually get the roof rack off when I can find some decent hand winches and pulleys, without the roof rack I reckon this old girl will still return the 30+ MPG I used to get when I purchased her over 11 years ago.
Thanks for keeping up and following.
Regards
Dave
RTT, 60" high lift, two sand ladders, two x 20 litre Jerry cans (empty), and a spare wheel!
I will eventually get the roof rack off when I can find some decent hand winches and pulleys, without the roof rack I reckon this old girl will still return the 30+ MPG I used to get when I purchased her over 11 years ago.
Thanks for keeping up and following.
Regards
Dave
Last edited:
Great fuel economy, but for clarity, is this using UK or US gallons?
I think he noted imperial miles so imperial MPG. Still... that would be 23.56 US mpg, right? I wish I could get mileage that good.
SteelHunterFJ80
SILVER Star
23.98 according to the online calculation l found. Either way anything over 22 is fantastic
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #632
I know there is resistance to bringing the 80 cooling system into the modern world but the electric cooling fan certainly makes some difference. The mechanical fans never uncouple completely, and the search for better cooling by adding silicone 'X' and silicone 'Y' to the fan clutch just adds to the problem. Done properly there are few disadvantages to the electric fan set up, it is way more efficient.
Many thanks for following.
Regards
Dave
Many thanks for following.
Regards
Dave
Hi Dave. Long time. Hows tricks?
My 80 is taking a break from duty currently as while I was doing her 250k mile service I noticed a slowish drip from the fuel pump. Were at 253k now but ITV has run out and shes not going to pass with dripping fuel. The leak appears to be coming from between the pump and the block. ie you cant actually see exactly where as theres a manifold in the way. Will have to come back to this when time allows.
Meanwhile, this belongs to someone else and arrived yesterday needing help. Is same as yours no, 24v rhd manual in green?
Talking to him on the phone had me suspecting shocks, and I was right, both rears seem to be not damping any more, but I wasnt expecting that at the front..
This passed the ITV 5months ago!
But what I wanted to ask is what could be going on with the engine? Compared to my 12v it feels utterly gutless until it gets close to 2k revs. You really have to rev it through the gears, seems to have almost no lowdown grunt at all until the turbo spins up? From 2-3k revs it seems ok but I barely ever get past 2k in mine with oodles of low down grunt below.
Any ideas? It seems to have lots of tubing and solenoids mine doesnt for rhe egr, should I be suspecting that?
Pretty sure its not how theyre supposed to be. I changed the fuel filter (along wirh the big service, hub seals new axle driveshafts at 200k ) just before that last test. It was the same then, owner thinks its normal but I don't.
Anyways glad youre bearing up under the Govid crap..catchya soon kev
My 80 is taking a break from duty currently as while I was doing her 250k mile service I noticed a slowish drip from the fuel pump. Were at 253k now but ITV has run out and shes not going to pass with dripping fuel. The leak appears to be coming from between the pump and the block. ie you cant actually see exactly where as theres a manifold in the way. Will have to come back to this when time allows.
Meanwhile, this belongs to someone else and arrived yesterday needing help. Is same as yours no, 24v rhd manual in green?
Talking to him on the phone had me suspecting shocks, and I was right, both rears seem to be not damping any more, but I wasnt expecting that at the front..
This passed the ITV 5months ago!
But what I wanted to ask is what could be going on with the engine? Compared to my 12v it feels utterly gutless until it gets close to 2k revs. You really have to rev it through the gears, seems to have almost no lowdown grunt at all until the turbo spins up? From 2-3k revs it seems ok but I barely ever get past 2k in mine with oodles of low down grunt below.
Any ideas? It seems to have lots of tubing and solenoids mine doesnt for rhe egr, should I be suspecting that?
Pretty sure its not how theyre supposed to be. I changed the fuel filter (along wirh the big service, hub seals new axle driveshafts at 200k ) just before that last test. It was the same then, owner thinks its normal but I don't.
Anyways glad youre bearing up under the Govid crap..catchya soon kev
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #634
Hiya Kev, yeah all good here, all good with you?
Revenue took a kicking during the lockdown with people unable to travel anywhere, I was pretty much dead in the water at the garage even dropped behind on SS payments but catching up now, but I got other stuff done, garage modded, with the garage door lifted a foot and the roof nearly two feet, it's a real nice environment to work in now.
Anything else car wise is in the previous posts. House got new bathroom furniture and other odds and ends.
Anyway to the car, mine is a12 valve as opposed to the 24 in your picture.
The 12 valves do have a bit more grunt lower down the rpm range but not by a lot, the 24 valves are a but more 'revvy'? I would certainly look at all the pipe work with relation to the EGR system, note with all that pipework it is easy to miss a small pressure leak post turbo, I am assuming air filter is cleaned, also check if it is OE, as OE are washable but only 'X' amount of times, if not sure put a new one in any way.
One of the biggest things that happens is someone feels the poor performance is due to one of the smaller pipes around the EGR and the manifold leaking and they are probably right, so they rip the lot out and replace it with some soft cheap pipe from a local spares shop, and if that's not bad enough they repipe it incorrectly! So check turbo to manifold piping, and all the garbage around and including the egr valves. Wastegate may be slightly stuck open but very unlikely.
Next is the valve clearances, 24 valves can look a little daunting to a novice so they get neglected, large valve clearances not only prevent the chambers filling properly but also throws the cam timing, check valve timing anyway just in case, these diesels will run 1 tooth out and be down on power.
Unlikely is the diaphragm on the top of the pump, but don't dismiss it, especially if a previous person has been in there trying to get more power by turning up the fuel.
Hope that helps, stay safe.
Regards
Dave
Revenue took a kicking during the lockdown with people unable to travel anywhere, I was pretty much dead in the water at the garage even dropped behind on SS payments but catching up now, but I got other stuff done, garage modded, with the garage door lifted a foot and the roof nearly two feet, it's a real nice environment to work in now.
Anything else car wise is in the previous posts. House got new bathroom furniture and other odds and ends.
Anyway to the car, mine is a12 valve as opposed to the 24 in your picture.
The 12 valves do have a bit more grunt lower down the rpm range but not by a lot, the 24 valves are a but more 'revvy'? I would certainly look at all the pipe work with relation to the EGR system, note with all that pipework it is easy to miss a small pressure leak post turbo, I am assuming air filter is cleaned, also check if it is OE, as OE are washable but only 'X' amount of times, if not sure put a new one in any way.
One of the biggest things that happens is someone feels the poor performance is due to one of the smaller pipes around the EGR and the manifold leaking and they are probably right, so they rip the lot out and replace it with some soft cheap pipe from a local spares shop, and if that's not bad enough they repipe it incorrectly! So check turbo to manifold piping, and all the garbage around and including the egr valves. Wastegate may be slightly stuck open but very unlikely.
Next is the valve clearances, 24 valves can look a little daunting to a novice so they get neglected, large valve clearances not only prevent the chambers filling properly but also throws the cam timing, check valve timing anyway just in case, these diesels will run 1 tooth out and be down on power.
Unlikely is the diaphragm on the top of the pump, but don't dismiss it, especially if a previous person has been in there trying to get more power by turning up the fuel.
Hope that helps, stay safe.
Regards
Dave
I did not know the OEM air filter is washable. It seems as a great asset in long journeys. Could you please expand on that (i.e. how to wash it, etc.)?
Cheers, and take care
Cutrex
Cheers, and take care
Cutrex
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #636
Yes washable, IIRC a max of ten times? I kept two, one in the motor and the other washed and dried in a plastic bag, the trails here tend to have dust that breaks down into a lightweight brown or even black talcum powder, it hovers in the air for ages so even if you have a good gap between you and the car you are following and add this to the rubbish thrown up around the car when moving it makes sense to swap them after a few days. Wash it out, shake dry and pack away for the next part of the trail.
With the lockdown I have not been off road 'proper' and had lost track of the amount of times they had been washed, I have a few airport runs picking up family and friends so dropped a new pattern one in for the time being.
Thanks for reading.
Regards
Dave
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #637
Update today @ 283,335 miles.
I generally just use bottled mineral water for the washer bottle, without the calcium of the natural water here in Spain it does not block the jets however it does not keep the bugs clear of the screen. So with a few airport runs to cover I filled the washer bottle with screen wash. When I put it in customers car it is normally 50/50 mix with mineral water, some people just like to have the bubbles on the screen. So with a full on concentration I continued to use the car and of course the screen wash got used, after a few days I got a 'waft' of the screen wash despite not having used it? I assumed there was screen wash sloshing up and down inside the air intake that was not draining away, so decided to take the grill off at the bottom of the screen, an easy five minute job.........yeh right.
I had noticed of late that the wipers don't go as fast as they usually do, keeping in mind the rarity of rain here so only when the screen wash button was pressed did the wipers get used, so I guessed the rods that operate the wiper spindle could do with greasing, I mean it made sense as I had the grill off right? Of the six screws holding the spindle bases in place four snapped! Despite the application of a release agent the damn things snapped off!
So with the rods removed I had to sit there with punch, drill and a tap set I spent nearly an hour getting the holes repaired, and then another half an hour looking for the 6mm bolts. It was getting late so with the air intake area hosed out (it was clean) I refitted everything except the plastic grills that are under the metal one! So the metal grill has to come off again, ironically there was nothing wrong with the rods, the motor itself is just running slow, age I guess? I will do the grill tomorrow as I have just been grounded for a suspected Covid infection following exposure to a person tested as positive, took the test today and have to wait till Monday of Tuesday for the result, if I venture outside and get caught it is a 60,000 euro fine....yes that is the right amount of zero's.
When I got the car there was the usual sloshing of water in the sills (rocker panels) and I pulled out the plastic plugs and left them out, the small slots where the panels meet get blocked so easily, and as the water from the washers appears to drain into the panels it makes sense to leave them unplugged, I guess after using the washers some of the screen wash lays in the panels waiting for a corner to be turned and it gets emptied out under the car? Either way a five minute job can easily become a two hour job.
Regards
Dave
I generally just use bottled mineral water for the washer bottle, without the calcium of the natural water here in Spain it does not block the jets however it does not keep the bugs clear of the screen. So with a few airport runs to cover I filled the washer bottle with screen wash. When I put it in customers car it is normally 50/50 mix with mineral water, some people just like to have the bubbles on the screen. So with a full on concentration I continued to use the car and of course the screen wash got used, after a few days I got a 'waft' of the screen wash despite not having used it? I assumed there was screen wash sloshing up and down inside the air intake that was not draining away, so decided to take the grill off at the bottom of the screen, an easy five minute job.........yeh right.
I had noticed of late that the wipers don't go as fast as they usually do, keeping in mind the rarity of rain here so only when the screen wash button was pressed did the wipers get used, so I guessed the rods that operate the wiper spindle could do with greasing, I mean it made sense as I had the grill off right? Of the six screws holding the spindle bases in place four snapped! Despite the application of a release agent the damn things snapped off!
So with the rods removed I had to sit there with punch, drill and a tap set I spent nearly an hour getting the holes repaired, and then another half an hour looking for the 6mm bolts. It was getting late so with the air intake area hosed out (it was clean) I refitted everything except the plastic grills that are under the metal one! So the metal grill has to come off again, ironically there was nothing wrong with the rods, the motor itself is just running slow, age I guess? I will do the grill tomorrow as I have just been grounded for a suspected Covid infection following exposure to a person tested as positive, took the test today and have to wait till Monday of Tuesday for the result, if I venture outside and get caught it is a 60,000 euro fine....yes that is the right amount of zero's.
When I got the car there was the usual sloshing of water in the sills (rocker panels) and I pulled out the plastic plugs and left them out, the small slots where the panels meet get blocked so easily, and as the water from the washers appears to drain into the panels it makes sense to leave them unplugged, I guess after using the washers some of the screen wash lays in the panels waiting for a corner to be turned and it gets emptied out under the car? Either way a five minute job can easily become a two hour job.
Regards
Dave
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #638
Update.
Generally July and August is quiet for me in the garage with most customers leaving Spain to escape the heat. This can be useful for me to catch up with anything I want to sort on the 80.
Well Covid messed up last year so workload was... well nothing really, but this year with people returning having to get cars inspected I have been busy. And then I got a Covid vaccine!
Then there was a change in my world It started with serious headaches, progressed to poor concentration, and then to being easily irritated...... no wait.. the irritation that's normal. A visit to the doctor revealed that apart from blood in my urine and MRI showed I had a 5cm tumour in my brain. So I am presently laying in a hospital bed waiting on surgery to remove a tumor from my brain.
All parts on the shelf ready for the 80's front axle overhaul, and a shed load of dedicated customers waiting at the garage door.
Get back to you ASAP.
Note to admin, thanks for unlocking my account so quickly, passwords and 'stuff' recently become cloudy.
Many thanks.
Regards
Dave 2000
Generally July and August is quiet for me in the garage with most customers leaving Spain to escape the heat. This can be useful for me to catch up with anything I want to sort on the 80.
Well Covid messed up last year so workload was... well nothing really, but this year with people returning having to get cars inspected I have been busy. And then I got a Covid vaccine!
Then there was a change in my world It started with serious headaches, progressed to poor concentration, and then to being easily irritated...... no wait.. the irritation that's normal. A visit to the doctor revealed that apart from blood in my urine and MRI showed I had a 5cm tumour in my brain. So I am presently laying in a hospital bed waiting on surgery to remove a tumor from my brain.
All parts on the shelf ready for the 80's front axle overhaul, and a shed load of dedicated customers waiting at the garage door.
Get back to you ASAP.
Note to admin, thanks for unlocking my account so quickly, passwords and 'stuff' recently become cloudy.
Many thanks.
Regards
Dave 2000
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #639
Well recovery from the brain surgery has been slow with a couple of setbacks, cerebral fluid moving down the side of my face closing my left eye, that was sorted by literally compression bandaging my face and forcing the fluid back up around the brain........or something like that....for a week! Then I lost the ability to form a sentence and responses to questions were slow along with profound stuttering, wetting my pants became part of everyday life, so visits to a Urologist have started, blood in my urine is caused by lesions on my left kidney, easily sorted with meds. All this in the early days and apparently not unusual, with meds being juggled and changed my voice has recovered and general cognitive abilities are improving almost daily, on the 17th of December I got the all clear from the brain surgeon on the healing process of skull and no internal bleeds, another check on the 1st of July to check skull is knitting back together correctly, all I need now is to jump through the cognitive test hoops on the 13th January with the neurologist to get the epilepsy meds stopped and have my driving privileges returned, despite weird sensations and jabbing pains around my head I feel great. 
So to the 80, she has not been driven since the 2nd of September and up until today I have not done anything to her, the last time I was off road was before the Covid outbreak and little things were irritating me, the CB would only transmit when it felt like it, I had never fitted a mic clip and simply dropped the mic into the centre console however, the opening and closing of the lid and of course occasions of me leaning on it had damaged the wiring inside the outer sheath, the sheath was compressed but did not look that bad. So after finding roughly where the break in the cable was, I removed the mic and stripped back the cable and found the damage. But herein lies the problem, the wires are seriously thin, perhaps only 5 or 6 strands of very fine copper! Trying to strip the cable and solder in a piece was just not happening, it was getting uglier the more I tried. I have the jewelers magnifying headset but I shake too much. So I pulled the plug out of the socket on the PCB and cut the socket clear of the four terminals. With more luck than judgement I managed to solder the wires direct to the terminals sticking up out of the PCB. To keep them in place I pressed them flat to the PCB and used a glue gun to give them some mechanical strength, once reassembled all works fine. A couple of years ago I was given a Ram mount base (Thanks Steve), I used copper pipe and soldered fittings to make the arm to carry my mapping tablet which worked great, as using the fittings I was able to get the arm in the perfect place. To save damaging the mic cable I have finally fitted a mic clip.
Next to the drivers side rear window (RHD vehicle). I was following a rough track on my last trip prior to the Covid lock down when suddenly the rear window dropped down with a clunk. When we eventually pulled up I guessed the wheel has come off of the arm that moved the window up and down? Well I decided today (while feeling as good as I did), I stripped out the door panel and the wheel had indeed come out of the track, the motor had also stopped working. With the arm (can't remember what it is normally called) removed form the motor the motor started working. After stripping and cleaning everything and noting the wheel was not badly worn I could see what had caused the wheel to come out of the track. The glass sits in a channel, a rubber gasket holds it in place. I could see over time the channel had moved along the rubber, the rubber itself had remained stuck to the glass. This meant the wheel would run out of track and fall out. The amount the track had moved was barely half an inch but was clearly enough to allow the wheel to come out. So having done those little jobs I feel better for it, the only thing that really bothers me is the inability to stand up from the kneeling position. I have to pull myself up but have no trouble walking, I can now walk around two miles without any ill effects, hoping to improve on that asap along with the getting up from kneeling.
The roof rack is still on the car as the winches never got fitted to the garage roof to lift it off, hopefully that will get sorted asap, of course the solar panel has kept the batteries fully charged and she fired up straight away. The front axle is still waiting for it's overall, but that will have to wait for a little while until I am stronger.
Thanks for reading and keeping up, and may all members and the staff at MUD have a Happy New Year.
Regards
Dave
So to the 80, she has not been driven since the 2nd of September and up until today I have not done anything to her, the last time I was off road was before the Covid outbreak and little things were irritating me, the CB would only transmit when it felt like it, I had never fitted a mic clip and simply dropped the mic into the centre console however, the opening and closing of the lid and of course occasions of me leaning on it had damaged the wiring inside the outer sheath, the sheath was compressed but did not look that bad. So after finding roughly where the break in the cable was, I removed the mic and stripped back the cable and found the damage. But herein lies the problem, the wires are seriously thin, perhaps only 5 or 6 strands of very fine copper! Trying to strip the cable and solder in a piece was just not happening, it was getting uglier the more I tried. I have the jewelers magnifying headset but I shake too much. So I pulled the plug out of the socket on the PCB and cut the socket clear of the four terminals. With more luck than judgement I managed to solder the wires direct to the terminals sticking up out of the PCB. To keep them in place I pressed them flat to the PCB and used a glue gun to give them some mechanical strength, once reassembled all works fine. A couple of years ago I was given a Ram mount base (Thanks Steve), I used copper pipe and soldered fittings to make the arm to carry my mapping tablet which worked great, as using the fittings I was able to get the arm in the perfect place. To save damaging the mic cable I have finally fitted a mic clip.
Next to the drivers side rear window (RHD vehicle). I was following a rough track on my last trip prior to the Covid lock down when suddenly the rear window dropped down with a clunk. When we eventually pulled up I guessed the wheel has come off of the arm that moved the window up and down? Well I decided today (while feeling as good as I did), I stripped out the door panel and the wheel had indeed come out of the track, the motor had also stopped working. With the arm (can't remember what it is normally called) removed form the motor the motor started working. After stripping and cleaning everything and noting the wheel was not badly worn I could see what had caused the wheel to come out of the track. The glass sits in a channel, a rubber gasket holds it in place. I could see over time the channel had moved along the rubber, the rubber itself had remained stuck to the glass. This meant the wheel would run out of track and fall out. The amount the track had moved was barely half an inch but was clearly enough to allow the wheel to come out. So having done those little jobs I feel better for it, the only thing that really bothers me is the inability to stand up from the kneeling position. I have to pull myself up but have no trouble walking, I can now walk around two miles without any ill effects, hoping to improve on that asap along with the getting up from kneeling.
The roof rack is still on the car as the winches never got fitted to the garage roof to lift it off, hopefully that will get sorted asap, of course the solar panel has kept the batteries fully charged and she fired up straight away. The front axle is still waiting for it's overall, but that will have to wait for a little while until I am stronger.
Thanks for reading and keeping up, and may all members and the staff at MUD have a Happy New Year.
Regards
Dave
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #640
Continuing trying to keep my brain working I decided to attempt to repair the trip meter on the 80 as it broke a couple of years ago, well OK I probably broke it being such a heavy handed person. Upon taking it apart I also find the timing belt reminder reset button also broke, certainly not coincidental.....just me. FWIW the main mileage counter works perfect.
The repair is going to be difficult as the 'axle' that supports the cogs has broken at both ends, the repair to the belt reminder easy in comparison, so I am going to opt for a secondhand speedometer head. Now I am hoping someone from the UK is reading this who can supply me a replacement head (no pun intended), because the diesel is more common in the UK however, another member may have swapped one out for a KM version elsewhere in Europe?
I need to reconnect with the UK forums but have yet to recall my passwords, so it looks I need to contact admin there as I did here on MUD.
Please find attached a picture of my broken speedometer for a reference point so tracking the mileage for future owners if I am unable to recover and maintain my driving licence.
Regards Dave.
The repair is going to be difficult as the 'axle' that supports the cogs has broken at both ends, the repair to the belt reminder easy in comparison, so I am going to opt for a secondhand speedometer head. Now I am hoping someone from the UK is reading this who can supply me a replacement head (no pun intended), because the diesel is more common in the UK however, another member may have swapped one out for a KM version elsewhere in Europe?
I need to reconnect with the UK forums but have yet to recall my passwords, so it looks I need to contact admin there as I did here on MUD.
Please find attached a picture of my broken speedometer for a reference point so tracking the mileage for future owners if I am unable to recover and maintain my driving licence.
Regards Dave.
