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- #81
3 steps forward, 2 steps backwards... that's cars for ya!
I gotta get this head off today
I gotta get this head off today
My HJ61 Rejuvenation
- Thread starter Fifty Hertz
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- Thread starter
- #82
Ok so I'm obviously a slight noob with the innards of the 12H-T. Only just realized that the rocker assembly needs to come off to remove the head
Well, taking the head off will keep you busy for some time. Rocker assembly, manifolds, head bolts, injectors etc etc...
While you are at it, replace every possible gasket and get your injectors rebuild too. That way you don't have to come back to do any head work again hopefully. And take a look on cylinder walls, but at 250k they should look like new however.
Thanks for clarifying the crank nut size!
I'm not planning on taking the whole pulley out as i only need to rotate the engine to adjust valves. I hope i can do that from underneath without removing too many parts outta way.
But in the other hand, i have new crankshaft seal on shelf waiting but that would mean taking the whole front end removed as you said, i'm not looking forward to doing that at this point. And guess what? My HJ celebrated warmest day (whopping +23c) of the year yesterday with revealing at least one new oil leak!! Freaking oil cooler cover, that means tons of work to get access to, nice.
Gl!
While you are at it, replace every possible gasket and get your injectors rebuild too. That way you don't have to come back to do any head work again hopefully. And take a look on cylinder walls, but at 250k they should look like new however.
Thanks for clarifying the crank nut size!
I'm not planning on taking the whole pulley out as i only need to rotate the engine to adjust valves. I hope i can do that from underneath without removing too many parts outta way.
But in the other hand, i have new crankshaft seal on shelf waiting but that would mean taking the whole front end removed as you said, i'm not looking forward to doing that at this point. And guess what? My HJ celebrated warmest day (whopping +23c) of the year yesterday with revealing at least one new oil leak!! Freaking oil cooler cover, that means tons of work to get access to, nice.
Gl!
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- #84
Done. Took 7 hours all up and no real dramas encountered 
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- #85
Well I'm on my way to work for another 4 weeks. The head is with a specialist for a refresh so it'll be ready for reinstallation when I'm back home. Not doing anything serious with it. Just a recut of the valves and seats, new valve stem seals and a skim of the face. I'm also fitting new injectors, which will less costly than having the old ones reconditioned.
Taking a head off usually brings a degree of nervousness as you're never sure exactly what you'll find. I was quite relieved upon taking a peak into the cylinders. The bores look very nice with the cross-hatching intact and no significant vertical scoring. Definitely no need for any durther dismantling and inspection
Taking a head off usually brings a degree of nervousness as you're never sure exactly what you'll find. I was quite relieved upon taking a peak into the cylinders. The bores look very nice with the cross-hatching intact and no significant vertical scoring. Definitely no need for any durther dismantling and inspection
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- #86
Well it's been a while so here's a quick update. The head got rebuilt while I was away on site last swing and was ready to pick up my first day back home:
It's a pretty standard head rebuild. Cleaned, refaced, replaced exhaust valve guides (inlets were fine), recut the valves, fitted new stem seals and welsh plugs. Also the injectors got sent off for a recondition and flow testing.
All good so far. I then found myself at the crossroads. Go any further? Or just put the head back on and keep going?
Answer:
Obviously i decided to pull the pistons and do an inspection!
It's a pretty standard head rebuild. Cleaned, refaced, replaced exhaust valve guides (inlets were fine), recut the valves, fitted new stem seals and welsh plugs. Also the injectors got sent off for a recondition and flow testing.
All good so far. I then found myself at the crossroads. Go any further? Or just put the head back on and keep going?
Answer:
Obviously i decided to pull the pistons and do an inspection!
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- #87
When everything was cleaned up and I could get a good look at it, I was a bit dubious. It's hard to tell in the photos but the pistons were actually worn below the nominal wear limit and there was a slight lip at the top of the stroke 
I got my friendly head builder to to come up and take a look at offer his expert opinion and he reckoned that it should really come out for a rebore. So guess what...?
Yep. Engine hoist time!
I got my friendly head builder to to come up and take a look at offer his expert opinion and he reckoned that it should really come out for a rebore. So guess what...?
Yep. Engine hoist time!
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- #88
Getting the engine out was actually pretty straightforward and I got it done easily in a day. The only slight issue was the lack of suitable lifting points due to the head and brackets being off. I whipped up a couple of lift points from some spare steel angle that I bolted to a couple of head bolt holes.
The other minor problem was supporting the rear of the gearbox. Due to space constraint in my workshop I'd need to roll the car back to get the hoist in front then back forwards to be able to make enough room at the back to load it up. The solution was to use a heavy duty ratchet strap slung between each chassis rail under the rear of the gearbox. That was it wasn't depending on a stand or blocks from the ground and the car can be moved easily.
All out and ready to tear down:
The other minor problem was supporting the rear of the gearbox. Due to space constraint in my workshop I'd need to roll the car back to get the hoist in front then back forwards to be able to make enough room at the back to load it up. The solution was to use a heavy duty ratchet strap slung between each chassis rail under the rear of the gearbox. That was it wasn't depending on a stand or blocks from the ground and the car can be moved easily.
All out and ready to tear down:
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- #89
I got the block dismantled to the point where it was just the crank and back half of the timing case there. The camshaft came out fine and looks ok.
Injection pump off:
Oil cooler out:
You can see here why I needed to be able to move the rig. It had to roll as far forward as possible so I could load the engine onto the trailer:
Strapped in and ready for the trip do the shop for a rebuild!
As you can see I was unable to get the back half of the timing case off. None of my gear pullers have small enough claws to fit behind the crankshaft timing gear so that and the crankshaft had to stay on. No biggie though and it still transported ok sitting on the sump.
Injection pump off:
Oil cooler out:
You can see here why I needed to be able to move the rig. It had to roll as far forward as possible so I could load the engine onto the trailer:
Strapped in and ready for the trip do the shop for a rebuild!
As you can see I was unable to get the back half of the timing case off. None of my gear pullers have small enough claws to fit behind the crankshaft timing gear so that and the crankshaft had to stay on. No biggie though and it still transported ok sitting on the sump.
- Thread starter
- #90
So my plan is to get the short block professionally rebuilt. As much as I'd like to be able to say I did it myself, with an engine like this I'd rather get an expert to do it. Here's the brief I've given to my builder.
I'm planning to get the pump assembly tested and re-calibrated. Definitely not a rebuild - it shouldn't need it. With the starter motor I'll pull it apart and check for wear and replace the brushes if needed. I actually expect that it will have minimal wear as it always starts first crank and therefore doesn't do many rotations. I'm not planning to do anything to the power steering pump. It's working fine and is easy enough to remove in future if required. The alternator was rebuilt a few years ago so I'll leave that alone as well.
So the question is: other than the above, what else is it prudent to consider doing while it's apart to this extent? Not that I'm looking to spend more time (or money!) but I'd appreciate some thoughts on any other opportune work.
Cheers from the Gobi Desert
- Bores to be machined first oversize and honed.
- Block deck to be machined flat.
- All block welsh plugs to be replaced with new.
- Main bearing shells to be replaced.
- Big end bearing shells to be replaced.
- Little end bearing shells to be replaced (if deemed necessary from initial inspection).
- Camshaft bearing shells to be replaced (if deemed necessary from initial inspection).
- Perform any required work on oil pump (if deemed necessary from initial inspection).
- Reassemble short block with oversize pistons. Work includes checking/adjusting ring end gaps and checking/setting piston heights.
- Refit sump without silicone sealant (I will remove it again once transported and fully prep/paint it myself).
- The block is not to be painted. Just clean and reassemble, I will paint it myself.
- All parts to be supplied with rebuild set.
I'm planning to get the pump assembly tested and re-calibrated. Definitely not a rebuild - it shouldn't need it. With the starter motor I'll pull it apart and check for wear and replace the brushes if needed. I actually expect that it will have minimal wear as it always starts first crank and therefore doesn't do many rotations. I'm not planning to do anything to the power steering pump. It's working fine and is easy enough to remove in future if required. The alternator was rebuilt a few years ago so I'll leave that alone as well.
So the question is: other than the above, what else is it prudent to consider doing while it's apart to this extent? Not that I'm looking to spend more time (or money!) but I'd appreciate some thoughts on any other opportune work.
Cheers from the Gobi Desert
nice job mate! I just got my 60 back on the road after rebuilding the 12ht. What I did to support the trans was just a piece of angle the width of the frame rails and two holes in it. two long bolts into the skid plate holes to pull the angle against the bottom of the case and it doesn't move a bit. Similar to what you did but I initially made my little jig so when I was mocking up front frame mounts for welding so I didn't want it to move any. As far as pulling the crank pulley gear I didn't put any jaws behind it. It has two holes for m6x1.0 bolts in it to pull the gear. Easy peasy. Id recommend swinging for a new aisin oil pump if funds allow just so there is now worries about it down the road. Aisin boxed pump set me back 385 here in the states. The same pump from Toyota is around 900 so plenty of savings there if you don't want the Toyota packaging 
I might also recommend new lifters while its out the faces tend to wear some where the plating cracks up. They are cheap and readily available from Toyota. Id also make sure to spring for a new Toyota head gasket when its all said and done.
Goy plenty of pics in my thread if you need any references for reassembly.
I might also recommend new lifters while its out the faces tend to wear some where the plating cracks up. They are cheap and readily available from Toyota. Id also make sure to spring for a new Toyota head gasket when its all said and done.
Goy plenty of pics in my thread if you need any references for reassembly.
she gonna last you another good while after you're going to be done with it.
Keep at it, your're getting there...
Keep at it, your're getting there...
- Thread starter
- #93
Well I've been back for a week of my break now and things have bee moving steadily. First day back I went and picked up the new clutch kit that I ordered in. It's a Terrain Tamer, which is made by Exedy in Japan to TT specs. Supposedly has 25% higher clamping force and a higher friciton compound.
My head builder guru who also agreed to to the short block rebuilt had the job finished and I was eager to pick up the heart of the beast!
All wrapped up like a Christmas present... sorta...
Let's see what he's done!
Looks pretty decent! By the way the lack of paint was my request. I want to do that myself once I've cleaned it up some more.
I paid extra for a full static and dynamic balance. The pistons and rods have been matched and the crank spun to 10,000 RPM and balanced to a high degree of accuracy.
Overall I'm very pleased and the price was reasonablefor such a comprehensive job. If anyone in WA is looking for head and engine work I can thoroughly recommend Hop at AK Cylinder Heads in Kelmscott. Cheers mate
My head builder guru who also agreed to to the short block rebuilt had the job finished and I was eager to pick up the heart of the beast!
All wrapped up like a Christmas present... sorta...
Let's see what he's done!
Looks pretty decent! By the way the lack of paint was my request. I want to do that myself once I've cleaned it up some more.
I paid extra for a full static and dynamic balance. The pistons and rods have been matched and the crank spun to 10,000 RPM and balanced to a high degree of accuracy.
Overall I'm very pleased and the price was reasonablefor such a comprehensive job. If anyone in WA is looking for head and engine work I can thoroughly recommend Hop at AK Cylinder Heads in Kelmscott. Cheers mate
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- #94
Now time to prep the rest of the engine for assembly. There's still a fair bit of cleaning and painting. First up I cleaned upthe head bolts and the threads in the block and test fitted them all.
Then there was a bit of bead-blasting of the various brackets and mounts.
Then there was a bit of bead-blasting of the various brackets and mounts.
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- #95
Now for more fun, stripping and cleaning prior to paint.
My standard practice is to clean with domestic cream cleaner then soak in zinc phosphate pre-treatment to promote paint adhesion.
Now for some KBS Rustseal.
Not bad for a quick job.
My standard practice is to clean with domestic cream cleaner then soak in zinc phosphate pre-treatment to promote paint adhesion.
Now for some KBS Rustseal.
Not bad for a quick job.
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- #96
At this stage I was ready to get the rest of the internals installed, namely the camshaft and oil pipework etc. Unfortunately I ran into a bit of a snag at this point. Upon cleaning down the camshaft I found that several lobes are moderately pitted. So Iv'e sent it away to Ivan Tigue Camshafts in Brisbane for a custom grind while I carry on with some other jobs.
Pilot bearing removed:
New bearing and new rear oil seal installed:
Also removed and replaced the last few welch plugs, just for good measure.
Pilot bearing removed:
New bearing and new rear oil seal installed:
Also removed and replaced the last few welch plugs, just for good measure.
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- #97
Well today I needed to take some time out to do a bit of a tidy up in the workshop!
That's better, I can move around now. I want to use all new bolts wherever possible, so I've counted themall up and made a list. Then went out and got all new grade 8.8 zinc plated bolts.
Sweet
While I was out there I got a call to say that the injection pump is ready for collection. One step closer...
That's better, I can move around now. I want to use all new bolts wherever possible, so I've counted themall up and made a list. Then went out and got all new grade 8.8 zinc plated bolts.
Sweet
While I was out there I got a call to say that the injection pump is ready for collection. One step closer...
Love the story and photos - a ton of work going in here.
nice work! Did you replace the camshaft bearings yet? they can be a bit of a bugger to fit with the rotating assembly in place and often times they need some massaging after fitment for the cam to go in as well. Good luck with it.
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- #100
Hi Roma,
Yes the camchaft shells have already been replaced. I got the engine shop to do that as it seemed difficult without the proper tool. I'm yet to find out how easily the camshaft will slide in. Even though I could theoretically install the oil baffle and sump now I'm holding off until the camshaft is back in case it needs some help to go in.
Overall the engine rebuild hasn't been too difficult and I reckon I've taken the right approach with it for a partial DIY job. Basically I've done all the disassembly myself, got a shop to do the block internals that require experience and special tools, now I'm the doing the preparation and final assembly myself. It's ending up the same result as a full shop rebuild but is costing a lot less and will probably be better presented than most due tothe time I'm taking with painting and prep.
So yeah I'm pretty happy with it. Just wish I had the camshaft now so I could finosh it off before I return to my next rotation at work!
