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- #41
Reece, I did not get them locally although I found out that Fairbanks Rubber and Rigging carries them. I got them on Amazon or something.
TK
My frigid 60 build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter AKcruiserfreak
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Reece, I did not get them locally although I found out that Fairbanks Rubber and Rigging carries them. I got them on Amazon or something.
TK
- Thread starter
- #42
I got the Mean Green alternator installed and brought home a mounted and balanced 33" BFG tire-Now on to the swingouts!
I had a few issues with the Mean Green install documented here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/541921-questions-those-w-mean-green-alternators.html
The 200 amps will come in handy for the winch and a future mod or five
Here's a few pics of the alternator and one of my helpers.
TK
I had a few issues with the Mean Green install documented here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/541921-questions-those-w-mean-green-alternators.html
The 200 amps will come in handy for the winch and a future mod or five
Here's a few pics of the alternator and one of my helpers.
TK
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- Thread starter
- #43
Still haven't got a few pieces for my swingouts or the new manifold, so I worked on a light bar to hold five 35w HIDs. The catch was, I had to still fit under my 7' garage door. I designed it to bolt up to the existing Wilderness roof rack and hinged it so the lights clear the garage door (by 1/4" ). I still have to run wires and a switch, but at least the major part is over.
I might post a seperate thread on this, but what is the best way to wire these bad boys up? I want them all on one switch, but I know that 175 watts of lights is going to draw some juice. I'm no electrical genius so any insight would be appreciated.
On to the pics...
). I still have to run wires and a switch, but at least the major part is over. I might post a seperate thread on this, but what is the best way to wire these bad boys up? I want them all on one switch, but I know that 175 watts of lights is going to draw some juice. I'm no electrical genius so any insight would be appreciated.
On to the pics...
VERRRRRRY nice! Way better initial platform than the troopies you had. I'll have to swing by your place sometime and take a peek. I have one question for ya. How exactly does one plumb the heater hoses for a heat riser block on a 2F when using a circulating tank type heater? I can't for the life of me figure out how to plumb it without it tossing all the heater out the block/radiator. :-/ Tell me and I'll bring the new(ish) sled down so you can take it for a spin. :-D
I'll have to swing by your place sometime and take a peek. I have one question for ya. How exactly does one plumb the heater hoses for a heat riser block on a 2F when using a circulating tank type heater? I can't for the life of me figure out how to plumb it without it tossing all the heater out the block/radiator. :-/ Tell me and I'll bring the new(ish) sled down so you can take it for a spin. :-D
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- #45
VERRRRRRY nice! Way better initial platform than the troopies you had.
I'm not a huge fan of those circulating heaters as they lose ALOT of heat to the atmosphere. A block heater is much more efficient. All that being said, I see most people using those circulating heaters plumb it to the lower radiator hose. you shouldn't have to mess with your heater hoses if it's intstalled on the lower radiator hose.
TK
I've got a block heater in there as well, but since I changed over to the aftermarket headers, and put the plate style heat rise in there, I would like to throw a circulating tank heater on there to warm the manifold up to avoid hard starts when it is "Our type of cold" out. I don't want GVEA to get too much money, so I am trying to figure out a way to have the Circulating tank heater on just the manifold heater, and not through the block/radiator. :-/ I'm also gonna need to pick your brain about what else is needed, and what works best (eg. type size of oil/tranny/battery heaters....etc.).
I'm gonna try to get all that stuff installed this weekend so I can at least feel safe taking it out of the nice heated garage. :-D\
I might post a seperate thread on this, but what is the best way to wire these bad boys up? I want them all on one switch, but I know that 175 watts of lights is going to draw some juice. I'm no electrical genius so any insight would be appreciated.
On to the pics...
175 watts is only 15 amps at 12v. At 12v and 15 amp you can run 6ft of 14# wire. 8.5 ft of 12# or 13 ft of 10# wire. So measure up how far to your hookups and go from there.
A 15 or 20 amp switch would be sufficient for all 4.
Still haven't got a few pieces for my swingouts or the new manifold, so I worked on a light bar to hold five 35w HIDs. The catch was, I had to still fit under my 7' garage door. I designed it to bolt up to the existing Wilderness roof rack and hinged it so the lights clear the garage door (by 1/4"
I might post a seperate thread on this, but what is the best way to wire these bad boys up? I want them all on one switch, but I know that 175 watts of lights is going to draw some juice. I'm no electrical genius so any insight would be appreciated.
On to the pics...
If you need any help/ materials to wire those up, let me know.
I might be able to help a tad here. I have about 35 years experience with electrical systems and can help with sizing, etc.
I'm guessing those are HID's and if so there's going to be a couple of things to keep in mind...
1) HID auto lamps usually have a 'pulse' start, meaning that although a normal HID lamp will take about 5 minutes to slooooowly get up to full brightness, an HID automotive lamp usually starts out at nearly full brightness. The electrical system essentially gives the lamp a heck of a whack of juice once you first toss the light switch on so it's a good idea to make sure the switch and wiring takes into consideration the pulse values shown in the installation instructions, assuming that a pulse is mentioned.
2) Distance between your electrical source and the lamps is a killer as it equates directly to voltage drop. It might seem like a tiny issue but that lamp is going to require a specific amount of wattage in order to light (and stay lit). If the voltage is significantly lower than the @ 12v required it will simply consume more amperage on the circuit which will pop fuses and overheat wiring, etc.
As a general rule of thumb, here's what you're looking at:
5 x 35W fixtures will consume 175W plus roughly 10% to account for the parasitic loss from the HID ballast. Let's just say that you're going to have an actual load somewhere around 192.5W or for round figures, 200W.
200W divided by 12V will give you your amperage draw which in this case will be about 17A, ballpark. Figure a 20A fuse will cover it.
20A wiring is size #12 copper. For good measure I'd bump that up to #10 copper in part because you're going to have some voltage drop based on the distance to the lights and in part because there's going to be a pulse on start up that will be better with less resistance in that circuit. A larger conductor will help reduce voltage drop issues.
You're on the edge. #10 copper wiring is good for 30A but while you're sorting this out make sure that your light switch is rated at 30A, minimum, and that any other pieces are rated at at least 30A as well (like any kind of bussing you use to tie these circuits together, etc.). A light switch rated at say, 15A would in this case be a fuse.
The above sizing should work assuming your pulse load isn't too long or too big. If you have trouble getting this circuit to hold the next option would be to go with a relay (if the concept is sketchy, think of them like a contactor or better yet, a big switch with a high amperage rating that is told what to do by a smaller switch with a lower amperage rating. These work a little like my marraige. The little switch tells the big switch what to do and it happens... or at least it better!).
In this instance you actually have an advantage being in FBX and that is that with cooler outside ambient temps your exterior wiring will be more efficient than it otherwise might be and therefore load losses will be lighter than they might otherwise be.
Holler if you've got any questions or if any of this babble didn't make sense, and thanks again for the heater. I've got it completely taken apart and partially rehab'd now. I very much appreciate it!
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- #50
Wow! Thanks for all the help. Here's what I'm thinking about running: https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/352802-auxiliary-fuse-relay-panel.html . It's a fuse/relay panel that a mud member sells. I'll run 10# wire from it to the battery and 10# wire to the lights. I'll also run a ham radio through the same box.
Thoughts?
TK
Thoughts?
TK
That looks like it would work fine, given you don't somehow grow 5 hands and switch every single item coming off the box at the exact same time. The worst that would happen would be an overload of the fusible link (I did't see a rating for it on there), and you still have protection of the battery and fuse panel on there. I may have to pick one of these things up. Are you plannibg on running a compressor off of there?
I think that Bussmann makes xlnt product. I also think that thing is about twice as big as it needs to be. There are more compact and somewhat cleaner solutions to the same basic problem, particularly where a relay isn't necessary. Here's an example of compact load distribution w/out relays:
Automotive Fuse Panels From Centech
In your case the primary thing to keep in mind would be to make sure your switch is rated at 20A minimum and that you don't allow ANY extra length in your wiring that isn't necessary. Pay attention to the routing of your wiring for the most reasonably efficient (shortest route) and all will be good no matter how you opt to do it. Sounds like you've got some experienced help nearby but if you wind up in a pickle and think I might be able to help via ph just let me know. I'll PM you my cell ph number.
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- #53
Legion, So you think a relay would be unnecessary as long as I run a 20A switch correct? I'd rather run without a relay as I've noticed a number people with HIDs having issues with relays. I'd just need to run 10# wire to battery, fuse block, lights, and switch.
Thanks man
TK
That is correct and for the record I really don't like unnecessary complexity. I like simple systems whenever they're practical and in this case you're toward the upper end but yeah... it will work fine. The only caveat would be that if the installation instructions on your HID's make a reference to any kind of really REALLY high initial starting impulse. If that's the case then we might need to rethink this but I'd be a little surprised if that were the case.
The bonus? In AK you run a bank of lights like that almost exclusively in the winter and in the winter the ambient temp will be that circuit's friend. Not that you need to bank on it in this instance but it will provide a better margin for headspace than your system otherwise would.
You're good to go.
Good looking rig man, my favorite color
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- #57
Good looking rig man, my favorite color
Thanks, it's coming along. I'm looking forward to starting on the swingouts.
Halfway down page two I figured out the intake.
Thanks for the props. I have alot of loose ends to tie up, but it's getting there.TK
Problems with relays and HID's are probably related to the type and rating of the relay selected. Some work better on resistive loads and some better for inductive loads. Pick the wrong one and there could be some grief in that installer's future.
I see youve already got some reccomendations on wiring.
When it comes to 12v and lighting loads, I would say to go overkill on your wiring size, and to run a relay near your battery.
Wire that is made of many smaller strands actually has less resistance, and at lower voltage power you would notice voltage drop more.
Also, running a wire from the battery to a switch, then to the lights would be longer and have more resistance than a single run, through an oversized relay, directly to the lights.
Though, both will make the lights work, you may find you get a pinch more light with stepping up the wire and relay size.
Also, I would run power from your high beams to the switch, then the switch to the relay.
If you were running them on the backroads at night, you dont have to kill your high beams and then find the other witch on the dash to turn them off each time a vehicle approaches.
When it comes to 12v and lighting loads, I would say to go overkill on your wiring size, and to run a relay near your battery.
Wire that is made of many smaller strands actually has less resistance, and at lower voltage power you would notice voltage drop more.
Also, running a wire from the battery to a switch, then to the lights would be longer and have more resistance than a single run, through an oversized relay, directly to the lights.
Though, both will make the lights work, you may find you get a pinch more light with stepping up the wire and relay size.
Also, I would run power from your high beams to the switch, then the switch to the relay.
If you were running them on the backroads at night, you dont have to kill your high beams and then find the other witch on the dash to turn them off each time a vehicle approaches.
Interesting idea. I was thinking just the opposite and might've suggested going with two different switches, neither of which would be integrated with the high beams. In part because it would lighten the load on your circuit(s) but more importantly because in FBX and ANC we get ice fog and in those conditions you could easily have too much light. When you do have too much light the reflection off the fog cuts your view down to zero, quick.
If you didn't mind wiring two switches for your auxiliary lights you could effectively have several lighting levels to match conditions.
1) Lights Off
2) Head Light / Low Beam
3) Head Light / High Beam
then add to that either:
4) Aux Lamp #'s 2, & 4
5) Aux Lamps #'s 1, 3, & 5
or both banks of Aux Lamps.
Add'l cost to do so would be @ 8' of #10 cu wire and a switch. I like the switches available through ARB that have an illuminated aluminum stalk. Easy to tell when they're on. I got a bank of them from Ehren, the local ARB guy here in Anchorage.
They're not listed on the ARB site but are available and I first saw one when I bought a rear back-up light kit from ARB a year or two back. IIRC it was the switch incl in the kit. They're single pole / double throw so you can serve two different loads with them but not at the same time. For example, I can wire a reverse light to work while the switch is in the 'up' position and drive lights to work when the switch is in the 'down' position. In the center position both lights are off. It's not important to me that these two ever work at the same time so it eliminates the need for an add's switch in the dash.
If you opted to use them though you'd have to go with either a relay configuration or two switches for dual level lighting of your aux lights as they're only rated at 15A @ 12V. If you like the idea let me know and I'll shoot two of 'em up to you in the mail, gratis.
They look like this:
