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- #161
That will come. I’m still paying off all the brown Santa visits I’ve had the past year.Wow nice cruiser!
Congrats! Also good work too.
I would invest in an oem new gas tank.
It deserves it.
Builds My FJ40 Journey...
- Thread starter Trailortrash
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- fj40
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Rainman
Wondering what my next vehicle will be...
I vote for a black bezel. Grey like the wheels after that. There's no other color on the truck really. Its black and white. Stick with it.
Oh.... Nice Ride!
Oh.... Nice Ride!
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- #163
I have removed the old (Grant) steering wheel and I’m putting the original back on. I’m posting 2 pictures of the original. Any pointers on cleaning them up/restoring them?anything I should address or fix before the original is put back on? Horn buttons send signal to the engine bay but there is all I hear is a click each time I press the horn button. Clicking seems to be coming from the starter solenoid area. I suspect it’s the relay engaging but no horn.
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- #164
Do I need to clean any of the blinker parts on the column?
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- Thread starter
- #165
Here is the engine bay currently.
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- #166
Update, I just bolted the original steering wheel on and went for a test drive this evening. Why not? Huge difference in steering especially at slow speeds. I have manual steering still and the original steering wheel is like magic.
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Some goo gone a rag and elbow grease... followed by some simple green a rag and more elbow grease. That’s all it should take. I don’t see any cracks... and you have the coveted red T center emblem. Nice!
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- #168
So I and a couple cousins installed the headliner in the Jalopy. It looks ok. Then I put the fiberglass roof back on new seals and went to bolting it down.
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- #169
So when I got to the back over the hatch I noticed the two bolts on top that secure the top flanges of the hatch support to the side walls were sticking up and only one larger hole existed in the roof. It looks like I have a bit of a gap. Is this appropriate or was I not supposed to use bolts there? Was I supposed to use only one? Or even none??? Do I need to remove the top and remove those bolts or is it ok? Seems to me it leaves a bit of a gap with them there. The passenger side has a bigger gap as I hadn’t bolted that side down yet and I wanted to show you guys the bolts I used. Drivers side is mostly bolted down. If you aren’t supposed to bolt those top flanges down to the side walls then why is there 2 bolt bolts on both sides? And the PO used a lot of caulking on the seal. I suspect these leak a bit or often? Are you supposed to glue them? My seal is dry and bolted.
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- Thread starter
- #170
So in true Jalopy fashion it would seem I have lost all running lights. So far I haven’t been able to figure it out. Two nights ago I noticed a flickering in them. Then the went out and came back on. Yesterday evening they just went out completely I haven’t returned. Hmmmm would a faulty light switch cause these woes? For some reason I’m drawn to it. All other lights work. Headlights, blinkers, brake lights. Every electrical component works also. Just no running lights. Bad ground perhaps? And I have no blown fuses.
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- Thread starter
- #171
Well, after hours and hours of the wiggle this and see if my lights work game, and hours building and rebuilding the light switch a few times, I’ve discovered my gremlin. The blue and red wire shown below. The splicing is done appropriately by the previous owner including being soldered. My problem is the connector on the end of the wire in the green multi-connector. When I wiggle the blue wire juuuuussst right all my running lights come on. Now to figure out how to remove the wire and clip inside the connector without damaging it....
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- #172
Well I got my lights working but I may tinker with that multi-connector more. Been busy with life. Did get a chance to go wet a line for a bit (see pic below) Newest problem from the Jalopy is a clicking coming from the rear end when braking. It only does it after driving 15-25 minutes once the rear end gets warm. This just started the last time I drove it. I rebuilt the rear brakes when I got it with new everything except for drums. I pop off the driver side drum and see nothing. I pop off the passenger drum and see oil. I may have a bearing going out and a bad axle seal. It’s going to the shop to get looked at this week. Probably have a tune up done too as it runs rich and I’ve never given her one.
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- #173
Also, while in the shop if the rear end needs addressing should I put in a locker? Anyone got any pro’s and con’s for lockers in 40’s?
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- #174
I’m going to put the side steps on possibly tonight. Anyone ever use rubber grommets or gaskets between the step and side of the body? I know it’s notorious for capturing sand or grime then rubbing and rusting out.
Anyone? I'm curious if anyone has done this as well. It does trap debris... I use my air compressor air nozzle to blow it out anytime I wash the truck.
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- #176
So I bolted both sides on normally with stainless hardware. Here is the result of the drivers side. Still a bit of a gap for debris to collect in. I’m not sure if gapping them out a bit with rubber grommets between the step and side at the bolt holes would be beneficial or not? Or would a long strip of rubber with bolt holes cut out be better to try and fill in the gap completely?
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- #177
I had to take a few pics for insurance purposes but here they are. The Jalopy is mostly back in one piece. Only a 2 year project that I projected to take 6 months and way way less money, it went fast. (That’s sarcasm by the way and I’ll probably never do this again)
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- Thread starter
- #178
So now I’m having brake issues. I had a clicking in the rear brakes when they got hot so I popped the drums off. (Brakes ran hot in the front as PO had switched the front drum over to ‘76 and newer FJ40 discs but did not change out the master cylinder) Passenger side had oil on the pads and drum. Since I rebuilt the rear brakes with new everything when I got the Jalopy, I knew I had a different problem than leaking wheel cylinders. I took it to the shop and had the rear end gone through, axle seals had given up the ghost. During the process I had an Auburn limited slip put in. The PSI I suspect in the front lines were too high as the master cylinder was designed for drum brakes which I believe is 10-11 PSI static line pressure to hold open he wheel cylinders and disc is 2-3 PSI, so I had too much residual line pressure in the front. IH8MUD suggested removing the plastic retainer cups in the front line on the master cylinder which I did otherwise the front wheels wouldn't turn at all. Afterwards it just had a quite bit of brake drag. New master cylinder ‘76 and newer designed for disc brakes up front should solve the problem the mechanic and I decided. Now my brake light comes on and I can push my brakes all the way to the floor with little to no braking power. He actually got a second master thinking the new one he put on might be bad. So now I’m at a loss. In theory, the master for disc up front should work just fine unless the rod and stroke is too short from my ‘73 pedal, rod, and brake booster. Any brake gurus have any pointers? With the disc master on it I can push the brakes to the floor and get little stopping power, or I put the old master on for drums and have quite a bit of brake drag on the front wheels but can stop on a dime. I have enclosed pictures of the front disc, old master cylinder, and new master cylinder. Any help would be greatly appreciated here as I’d prefer to have brakes without my fronts dragging and smelling cause they get so hot.
PS I failed to mention this before but with my Jalopy came from the PO everything necessary to swap the back drums to disc except a brake purporting valve.
PS I failed to mention this before but with my Jalopy came from the PO everything necessary to swap the back drums to disc except a brake purporting valve.
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If you want to prevent rust where the running boards bolt up, work some grease in between that 'sandwich area' and wipe off the excess that you can see. Rust cannot form where grease is living. It will get washed out over time (and car washes and wheeling trips), but will do some good while it's there. Any rubber grommets, mylon washers, etc. will just hold water against the steel, and it will eventually rust.
Like any two steel surfaces bolted to each other, it's not a great design from a rust standpoint, so you do what you can and live with it. At least you're not likely fighting road salt, as well.
Like any two steel surfaces bolted to each other, it's not a great design from a rust standpoint, so you do what you can and live with it. At least you're not likely fighting road salt, as well.
In my experience it’s one of three things: a leak somewhere, a stubborn air pocket or you are WAY out of adjustment... if you are retaining all your fluid. Try the adjustment and air. You’ll have to bounce around between the two...... but if you keep at it you’ll get it... I had an fj that was the biggest PIA but eventually she succumbed......
