My First Land Cruiser - BJ60 "Wabi Sabi" (5 Viewers)

[PapaGiamati]

Spring has sprung and I am almost able to work in the garage without the heater anymore.

Took the rear heater apart to:
a. see if it still worked, and;
b. wash it out.

Pulled the motor apart and found the brushes still had plenty of life. There was a LOT of crap built up in the housing against the heater core. Not much to blame since its a really tough spot to clean without taking the whole assembly out. I then just wired my motorcycle battery to the motor to make sure it worked as I've never actually heard it on before. Does the blower motor turn on with the same fan switch at the front?

(edit: i now know that there is switch on the dash for the rear heater fan, as read in the owners manual (duh) but my fan wont kick on even though i have tested it and it works. More gremlins to figure out...)

cleaned up the inside of the cabin and scrubbed the caked on dirt off to get that factory level shine back, who am i kidding its all going to be covered in carpet soon enough. I blasted a TON of rusty water out of the heater core. Felt good to get that gunk out and have the cooling system a lot more free of particulates.

I always figured that the little knob for the passenger control was supposed to have a plastic or rubber knob of some sort on it. It just kind of blends into the assembly. I gave it a quick coat in yellow to have the user control stick out a bit more. I think it looks better.

Onto the glow plugs. Took them all off and laid them out to be tested. I usually have a starting issue when its cold. It takes far longer to turn over and start than i imagine it should. Time to see if the glow plugs had anything to do with it. New vs. Old below.

most tested close to 0 which was ideal, 1 through 3 sat around 0.4-0.7 ohms.

on the final glow plug, number 4, tested faulty.

Hopefully this and the valve adjustment make the engine start and perform a little better than before.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Well @Gimme a 60, good call on pulling the thermostat. Its a Toyota OEM 88C one. I think I will replace it with an 82C. Haven't made my mind up yet.

Check out those flakes. A full coolant flush is needed.

 

[Gimme a 60]

Spring has sprung and I am almost able to work in the garage without the heater anymore.

Took the rear heater apart to:
a. see if it still worked, and;
b. wash it out.

Pulled the motor apart and found the brushes still had plenty of life. There was a LOT of crap built up in the housing against the heater core. Not much to blame since its a really tough spot to clean without taking the whole assembly out. I then just wired my motorcycle battery to the motor to make sure it worked as I've never actually heard it on before. Does the blower motor turn on with the same fan switch at the front?

View attachment 3578368

cleaned up the inside of the cabin and scrubbed the caked on dirt off to get that factory level shine back, who am i kidding its all going to be covered in carpet soon enough. I blasted a TON of rusty water out of the heater core. Felt good to get that gunk out and have the cooling system a lot more free of particulates.

I always figured that the little knob for the passenger control was supposed to have a plastic or rubber knob of some sort on it. It just kind of blends into the assembly. I gave it a quick coat in yellow to have the user control stick out a bit more. I think it looks better.

View attachment 3578377

Onto the glow plugs. Took them all off and laid them out to be tested. I usually have a starting issue when its cold. It takes far longer to turn over and start than i imagine it should. Time to see if the glow plugs had anything to do with it.

View attachment 3578378

most tested close to 0 which was ideal, 1 through 3 sat around 0.4-0.7 ohms.

View attachment 3578379

on the final glow plug, number 4, tested faulty.
View attachment 3578382

Hopefully this and the valve adjustment make the engine start and perform a little better than before.

I ordered some glow plugs for mine from lordco. Only 18 bucks a plug.

 

[Gimme a 60]

Well @Gimme a 60, good call on pulling the thermostat. Its a Toyota OEM 88C one. I think I will replace it with an 82C. Haven't made my mind up yet.

Check out those flakes. A full coolant flush is needed.

View attachment 3578425

Run some irontite though there, until she’s Crystal clean.

 

[PapaGiamati]

I ordered some glow plugs for mine from lordco. Only 18 bucks a plug.

Beauty,

yeah I bought some NGK 7493 Y-147T Glow Plugs as seen above and tossed them in. I'm excited to fire this thing up once all is said and done. Should be night and day.

 

[Gimme a 60]

Beauty,

yeah I bought some NGK 7493 Y-147T Glow Plugs as seen above and tossed them in. I'm excited to fire this thing up once all is said and done. Should be night and day.

Yea tell us how it goes. You and I have a similar cold start issue.

 

[bcsteel]

Nice truck! And nice build. Following along.

I did not have good luck with aftermarket glow plugs, tried VMC (I think that’s the brand) didn’t work out of the box, Then tried NGK, worked well for about a year. Finally got an OEM set from Megazip when they had a 20% sale. Not saying you’ll have the same results just info to file away for later just in case. Test the water temp sensor as well. Cheap insurance.

Check your grounds and all connections, and now is a good time to look at your fuel connections as it’s infuriating to do later when you’re trying to enjoy your truck.

 

[PapaGiamati]

another day tearing the 3B down to replace all the gaskets. Was a balmy 16 C today so I spent the entire day in the garage.

The new 82C thermostat came in, installed that and a new OEM gasket as well. Easy enough to replace. But I noted there there was A TON of hard build up inside the engine block. I replaced the gasket that seats the thermostat holder to the engine as well from my aftermarket gasket kit. Im curious what i will need to do to clear all the scaling and rust residue out of the cooling system. There is a lot of it.

Next was onto the exhaust manifold that I have been fighting for 2 weeks now. I was trying my best to not bust any manifold studs or bolts. I managed to take all but 2 off successfully. I managed to round the heads off the bottom middle 2 bolts. I went out and got some bolt extractors from princess auto and saw about getting them out.

After a lot of heat and some bolt extractors, one came out, and the other sheered right off.

Luckily it left enough coming out of the block that I should be able to get it out with vice grips and a lot more heat.

I had to find a way to get the manifold off with the exhaust still connected, so i took off one of the hangars below. Of course every single little bolt snapped right off. More drilling and tapping in my future...

Looked like the gasket had not been replaced in a looooooong time. As well, there was clearly an exhaust leak from the gasket that had been blown out on cyl 1. Lots of soot and the faces of both cyl 1 and 4 were rusty on the gasket mating surface.

 

[PapaGiamati]

The exhaust manifold was very rusty on the gasket surface so i looked to clean it up before installing a new gasket. Made a table top wet sanding set up that allowed me to get a flat surface for the manifold.

I still need to work on it cause Cyl 4 (most rearward) had some deep pitting on the surface. Either i put a lot of elbow grease into it, or some shop can maybe get it resurfaced? Or I just see how long the new gasket lasts on this.

Next was onto the pushrod cover and oil cooling system gaskets.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Got it off once again with EASE. The bolts and nuts were once again barely on. A couple once again barely even needed a wrench. I mean at least I didnt have to worry about breaking bolts!

Bought a torque wrench today too on sale, so I will torque all of my previous work to spec making sure i dont go too tight on these gasket mating areas.

Clean everything and paint it bllllaaaaaack.

completely forgot that the oil cooler system was surrounded by coolant (DUH) and when i popped it off i dumped coolant all over the garage floor.

once again, so much rust residue....

 

[PapaGiamati]

inside looked fine, spent A LONG time peeling the gaskets off the surfaces, and im still not done. If anyone has a better method for cleaning off caked on gaskets let me know. I just use a razor blade and a lot of patience for now.

I think i saw a thread where someone got an aircraft mechanic to clean out their oil cooler, i might try to find a place to clean it. No idea if its worth it, but since im here, might as well eh?

Happy St Pattys Day, time for a beer

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

For de-scaling, I sealed up my engine's coolant passages and filled it for a few days with citric acid.

With your sheared stud, I would weld a bit of steel bar to it. When the stud is hot from welding, pour cold water over it, and it should wind straight out.

For removing those hard old paper gaskets, I put methylene chloride paint stripper on them to soften the material up, flatten the end of a copper pipe and put an edge on it with a stone, and use that to scrape. You won't mark the soft cast iron with such a scraper (unlike a steel blade), and are less likely to damage the aluminium too.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Look what I found on sale…
T minus 2 weeks.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Popped by a wrecker near my place that had a 1998 Toyota 4Runner and nabbed the wiper arms off it to do that simple wiper arm swap. Picked them up for $14. Sadly the caps weren’t on the truck, but that’s a minor issue.

Added 18” wiper blades on both sides. Passenger hangs off the window as well, but they’re cheap $4 blades.

Worked quite well so far.

 

[PapaGiamati]

Was planning on scraping the block clean of the cork gasket for the tappit cover and the paper one for the oil cooler in prep for putting it all back together.

Made myself quite comfy in the engine bay. Really feeling at one with the truck now.

Had this new exhaust manifold to exhaust donut. A little different from what came out but we will see how it ends up.

Then I got tired of the alternator being in the way so that became the new priority…
And I mean, while I’m here, I might as well completely clean it and disassemble it. Right?

It was CAKED in old oil. I wanted to take it apart cause I wasn’t sure if all the old oil on it would hamper its functionality.

 

[PapaGiamati]

First it took a bath.

The plastic bristle brush I was using took the sticker writing clean off sadly.

Separated, and you can see a set of brushes the PO left me. What a gem. Mighty oily and dirty in there.

Old brushes still had some life in them so I don’t think I will change them out for now.

Took the vacuum pump off the back. Does anyone know if they sell the o-ring (they do, see below) for this piece anymore? I re-used it cause I didn’t have another but would love to replace it.

The o-ring goes in that groove.

 

[PapaGiamati]

brush disassembly

Separated the stator from the body for more cleaning. Lots of gunk in all the wires. I cleaned it all up enough to be functional. Not looking for show spec on this.

Brush comparison, PO donated ones (left) and the current alternator brushes (right)

The shaft from the v-belt drive. Brush contact slip rings looked great. There were some grooves in the shaft where it sat in the body and where the oiler hole fed to the shaft. Not sure if those are machined in or if they are from some rubbing.

And all “cleaned” up. Good enough. Almost a whole roll of shop towels in the garbage after cleaning it. (For reference the whole body was black before)

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

brush disassembly


View attachment 3593023

Separated the coils (?) from the body for more cleaning. Lots of gunk in all the wires. I cleaned it all up enough to be functional. Not looking for show spec on this.

View attachment 3593024

Brush comparison, PO donated ones (left) and the current alternator brushes (right)

View attachment 3593025

The shaft from the v-belt drive. Brush contact surfaces looked great. There were some grooves in the shaft where it sat in the body and where the oiler hole fed to the shaft. Not sure if those are machined in or if they are from some rubbing.

View attachment 3593026

And all “cleaned” up. Good enough. Almost a whole roll of shop towels in the garbage after cleaning it. (For reference the whole body was black before)

View attachment 3593027

The oily thing on the back of the alternator is your vacuum pump. The O-ring part number is 90099-14055.

The slip ring surfaces look good, the worn grooves are from an oil seal I believe, and I don't think it's a replaceable part. The oil hole is in the part of the shaft which turns in a brass/bronze bushing and looks OK. I'm not sure if it's just a trick of the light, but are you vacuum pump drive splines very worn?

 

[PapaGiamati]

The oily thing on the back of the alternator is your vacuum pump. The O-ring part number is 90099-14055.

The slip ring surfaces look good, the worn grooves are from an oil seal I believe, and I don't think it's a replaceable part. The oil hole is in the part of the shaft which turns in a brass/bronze bushing and looks OK. I'm not sure if it's just a trick of the light, but are you vacuum pump drive splines very worn?

The splines were nothing of concern that I noted. Think its a trick in the lighting @Eurasiaoverland.

So its a vacuum pump, but the whole back side was filled with oil? Why would the vacuum pump be filled with oil? I don't think I understand that system.

Assuming mine is the w/ IC Regulator. Do you think i should take it apart again and do all the manual checklist items? I just took it apart to clean it tonight but didn't multimeter any of the systems cause I knew it held a charge before.

Thank you for the part #!

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

The vacuum pump is a vane-type pump which requires oil both to lubricate the vanes and, I believe, to seal the vanes against the housing. It's the same principle as the power steering pump.

The fault-finding is aimed more at defective alternators so if yours works fine (i.e. putting out about 13.8 V) it's not really necessary. The brushes are the only thing which regularly wear out.

The vacuum pump should be spotlessly clean when you put it back together though, and I would also replace the copper washers on the banjo fitting if you disturbed them.

I think that's a pretty rare alternator with a vacuum pump and an internal voltage regulator, so take care of it