My 75 FJ40 build up thread

[Weber Sarge]

The ceramic will help but only just a little . I've made some shields in the past using 1/4" solid stock welded to the pipe about 1/4" long in a straight inline pattern along the pipe , two rows of them and then using a pipe about 33% larger spot welding that to the standoffs which could be done after coating .

I had a very heavy skidplate on my last rig - got hit in the rear by a gal in a Ford one day and thankfully that skid kept the tank from being punctured although it did get dented in quite a bit . That 2" receiver acted like a drift punch and even tore the 3/16" skid plate . Totaled the car , cost me half a day and some steel to fix the rear bumper/skid .... lol .
Sarge

 

[kcustom73]

Sarge, thanks for the info the shield. I guess you only do the side of the pipe that needs protection (still need somewhere for the heat to escape).

Hadn't taught of the receiver acting as a drift punch if I ever got rear ended. That why I like this place, lots of people with different experience sharing information. How beefy was your bumper that took the impact?

 

[Shad0wTr0n]

You could header wrap it. We do that on autocross cars to keep engine bay temps down. Heat will escape out the end of the exhaust rather then so escaping in the interior.

 

[Shad0wTr0n]

Just to be clear, you only need to header wrap the downpipe. Air flow under the vehicle will do its job.

 

[Toshi38]

Just to be clear, you only need to header wrap the downpipe. Air flow under the vehicle will do its job.

I would wrap further... with the aluminum body it radiates tones of heat. I have a problem with that right now with my aqualu tub. I'm going to try a heat shield and prob header wrap on the pipe too.

I would at least do past the front seats so you don't cook your feet.

 

[Chamba]

I wrapped the headers and exhaust on the vortec in my troopy back about 5'. After many g years and many miles I had no problems with cracks or the metal getting brittle. It did make a huge difference in comfort though as my floor got very hot before I wrapped the exhaust.

 

[Toshi38]

I wrapped the headers and exhaust on the vortec in my troopy back about 5'. After many g years and many miles I had no problems with cracks or the metal getting brittle. It did make a huge difference in comfort though as my floor got very hot before I wrapped the exhaust.

Great to hear! My only worry with the exhaust wrap is rust in the exhaust?

Kevin have you decided if you're going to wrap/make heat sheilds ect?

 

[Chamba]

Great to hear! My only worry with the exhaust wrap is rust in the exhaust?

Kevin have you decided if you're going to wrap/make heat sheilds ect?

I never had that problem but it is pretty dry in NM. The only bad thing I do recall is salt buildup occasionally as the water from the road evaporates almost instantly from the heat but leave the salt behind. This washed off though when I washed the truck after a snow.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I've built those shields to vent either at the top or off to one side - wherever the heat can go without damaging anything else as it will get hotter than you might think , especially off that turbo .

My rear bumper was made from 4x5x3/16" tube - Ford Probe hit it while I was stopped , she claimed less than 30mph but the car ended up under my rear axle on the Sami and clear on the other side of the intersection . Cop wanted to write me a ticket for height - I told him is sat lower normally unless people wanted to park their car under it , he let it go . Totaled the Probe - took most of the top of the engine off , hood , both fenders , bumper and blew one front tire . Without the skid the receiver would have punctured the fuel tank easily - that skid was a press formed 3/16" piece of solid plate so it was pretty tough . Lesson learned -
Sarge

 

[kcustom73]

I think I might have to do a combination of all your suggestion to keep the heat down to a minimum in the downpipe/tranny area. First thing I've decided to do is spary both sides of the firewall and tranny hump with Lizard Skin ceramic, then ceramic coat the downpipe, then put a heat shield (might spray the shield with Lizard skin too if I have enough) between the pipe and the tranny and then wrap the downpipe from the turbo and go as far back as needed.

HJ47, do you remember what kind (type of material) heat wrap you used? So many of them out there on the market and want to get something that will survive the Canadian roads all year.

Stephen, I'm going with 304SS for all the piping and hoping that the heat coming off the turbo will be enough to dry up the wrap to minimize the affect of rust.

Sarge, would you have pics of your heat shield. It would be nice to see an example before I dive into it. As for the skid plat for the tank, the idea was to use 3/16" plate and have it solidy mounted to the bumper.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I had some pics here somewhere but can't find them now . Just be aware that heat wrap will back excessive heat up into the turbo when you shut the engine down and may further cook the oil in the turbo bearings . Not sure how bad the ol' 6.5 engine is with this , but some it's a big enough issue to warrant an electric timer pump system .

The shield is pretty simple - just a pipe about 1/3 larger diameter and usually sliced in half lengthwise - you can use pre-bent sections to match the existing pipe routing . I generally use 5/16" oil hardened drill rod for the standoff's - 3/8"-1/2" long welded to the main pipe . Drill some matching holes in the shield pipe and spot-weld it to the standoffs or you could gun drill the standoffs and use screws to attach the shield . A lot of fabricators build these and it makes quite a difference in engine bay temps .
Sarge

 

[Chamba]

I don't exactly
HJ47, do you remember what kind (type of material) heat wrap you used? So many of them out there on the market and want to get something that will survive the Canadian roads all year.

I don't exactly, but I remember it was 2" wide rolls of about 1/8" thick asbestos-like fabric (obviously not actually asbestos) which I got online from a street rod performance shop in Phoenix. It came in a plastic shrink-wrap container with two 4' rolls. I used exhaust u-bolts to hold the end on.

 

[Toshi38]

I had some pics here somewhere but can't find them now . Just be aware that heat wrap will back excessive heat up into the turbo when you shut the engine down and may further cook the oil in the turbo bearings . Not sure how bad the ol' 6.5 engine is with this , but some it's a big enough issue to warrant an electric timer pump system .

The shield is pretty simple - just a pipe about 1/3 larger diameter and usually sliced in half lengthwise - you can use pre-bent sections to match the existing pipe routing . I generally use 5/16" oil hardened drill rod for the standoff's - 3/8"-1/2" long welded to the main pipe . Drill some matching holes in the shield pipe and spot-weld it to the standoffs or you could gun drill the standoffs and use screws to attach the shield . A lot of fabricators build these and it makes quite a difference in engine bay temps .
Sarge

Interesting... I had always thought that the sheild had to be mounted on the vehicle and not the exaust so it didn't just act as a radiator (IE not thermaly connected...)

Maybe I'll have to try building one to see how well it works In the summer my passenger side could almost boil water...

 

[rain76king]

Really cool build. Really inspiring.

Subscribed

 

[kcustom73]

Just a few pics of the transmission cover all tacked up. Hopefully get the finish welding done this weekend.

Lizard skin ceramic is on order in my bid to cut as much heat as possible from the cab.

Almost done the rear bench support / battery boxes / storage boxes.

Once I get both of these items done I can pull the engine back out for the last time and do the last of the Monstaliner and Lizard Skin.

Now for the pics...

 

[Toshi38]

Looks great!

Have you considered adding a couple of cup holders to the tunnel?
Where did you get your shift boots? I need to get some new ones and fix up my trans tunnel.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Looks great!

Have you considered adding a couple of cup holders to the tunnel?
Where did you get your shift boots? I need to get some new ones and fix up my trans tunnel.

Sure Steve..... only you would suggest cup holders. Next youll be quoting the circumference of the bottom of a Lucky can.

Nice build BTW!

 

[Cdaniel]

Subscribed! You are quite the diligent gear head. And I thought my project was going too long I just happend on this thread and am amazed at what you've put together.

 

[kcustom73]

Steve, cup holders are always good to have and now that I've figured out what I'll be doing for the heat / A/C (Yes A/C, the only request the had for the truck) I think I'll be able to add a couple of cup holders to the front of the trans cover.

As for the shifter boots, the ones for the single sticks I got with the Aqualu trans cover I didn't use and the dual boot I got from Georg (Orange45 here on MUD) when I got his twin stick kit for the split case.

Cliff, I'm not sure if it diligent our stubbornness It's been a fun project, that's been frustrating at time, confusing at others, but when I get it on the road in a few months, it will have been well worth it.

 

[Ambrew]

Lookin' good!