My 3FE into FJ40 swap
- Thread starter Curtice
- Start date
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Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
That definitely cannot be considered running. I say look at the ignition circuit since the starting circuit seems to work but you cannot sustain ignition.
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #163
Thanks. I'll check that circuit. To me I thought it started, meaning it gets past ignition, or ignites initially, but cannot sustain.
The ignition stuff is where I had problems initially so maybe something still not right there even though i did have it running before.
The ignition stuff is where I had problems initially so maybe something still not right there even though i did have it running before.
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
I believe you need the circuit opening relay operational because it affects multiple systems.
A couple things I would check first:
Put ignition switch in RUN position
Take off air filter and push the AFM air flap in a ways, you should hear the fuel pump come on then turn off when you release. If this is working the AFM switch and COR are ok.
Check for 12VDC on the blk/blu wire out in the engine area. This is the injector power supply.
Put ignition switch in RUN position
Take off air filter and push the AFM air flap in a ways, you should hear the fuel pump come on then turn off when you release. If this is working the AFM switch and COR are ok.
Check for 12VDC on the blk/blu wire out in the engine area. This is the injector power supply.
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #168
Thanks.
Pushing in the flap on the AFM does start the fuel pump. I thought my COR was bad...as I mentioned it didn't pass fsm test.
To check for 12v, the black blue wire that supply's the injectors is the one that goes over the connector to the engine harness, correct? I have no voltage there. I do have 12 volts on the black blue wire to the coil and to the ECU. So that means I have a bad connection somewhere in the line that goes to that connector, but after where the ECU circuit is spliced in. Does that sound correct?
Pushing in the flap on the AFM does start the fuel pump. I thought my COR was bad...as I mentioned it didn't pass fsm test.
To check for 12v, the black blue wire that supply's the injectors is the one that goes over the connector to the engine harness, correct? I have no voltage there. I do have 12 volts on the black blue wire to the coil and to the ECU. So that means I have a bad connection somewhere in the line that goes to that connector, but after where the ECU circuit is spliced in. Does that sound correct?
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #169
Awesome tip!!
Found the problem. A bad splice at that connector to the engine harness on the black blue wire just as you said. Those were the first ones I did, so not very good quality. Going to check the others, but it works!
You guys are great, thanks for all the help so far.
Found the problem. A bad splice at that connector to the engine harness on the black blue wire just as you said. Those were the first ones I did, so not very good quality. Going to check the others, but it works!
You guys are great, thanks for all the help so far.
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #171
Thanks for all the help everyone. Cruiser is at the exhaust shop now getting new pipes. Thought I would post some more pics and updates of the work I did. Other than a few small miscellaneous things, it is pretty much done. Drove down to the exhaust shop with no issues (except it was super loud).
Charcoal canister - I used the 62 canister...just put it into the bracket used from the 40 canister and mounted it in the exact same spot.
Power steering - I bent some new hard lines, then took the soft lines from the 62 steering set up and had a shop put them together at the lengths I needed. I routed the lines across the front cross member under the radiator.
Gauge cluster - wired in the new gauges from Amaurers kit, as well as the new lighting. Looks great...so nice to see gauges at night. And so nice to have gauges that work!
Wiring - wrapped the harness and re-installed. Put the ECU in the glove box. Drilled a new hole through the firewall into the glove box. I wanted to keep as many wires out of the passenger foot area as possible, so other than the connections from the original cowl harness to the engine bay, all new EFI wires run into the glove box from above, and into the glove box from the engine bay through the new hole. Still need to clean up and seal around the grommet, but pretty happy. I think I could have been a bit cleaner with my wiring, but it'll work.
wrapping the new harness:
engine bay wiring - mounted the EFI relay and Circuit Open Relay on the firewall as well:
ECU - not sure about that wiring coming over the top...might want to do something there:
AFM and air filter - Since I kept the original length of the intake tubing, there was really only one place for the filter and AFM to sit. But I didn't want it bouncing around and potentially hitting the + battery terminal. So made a rudimentary bracket to secure the AFM to the battery tray hold down bolt. It ain't pretty, but it'll work. Also followed suggestion and put a little mini filter onto the smog pump.
Full engine bay pic:
and finally looking like a real truck again!
Charcoal canister - I used the 62 canister...just put it into the bracket used from the 40 canister and mounted it in the exact same spot.
Power steering - I bent some new hard lines, then took the soft lines from the 62 steering set up and had a shop put them together at the lengths I needed. I routed the lines across the front cross member under the radiator.
Gauge cluster - wired in the new gauges from Amaurers kit, as well as the new lighting. Looks great...so nice to see gauges at night. And so nice to have gauges that work!
Wiring - wrapped the harness and re-installed. Put the ECU in the glove box. Drilled a new hole through the firewall into the glove box. I wanted to keep as many wires out of the passenger foot area as possible, so other than the connections from the original cowl harness to the engine bay, all new EFI wires run into the glove box from above, and into the glove box from the engine bay through the new hole. Still need to clean up and seal around the grommet, but pretty happy. I think I could have been a bit cleaner with my wiring, but it'll work.
wrapping the new harness:
engine bay wiring - mounted the EFI relay and Circuit Open Relay on the firewall as well:
ECU - not sure about that wiring coming over the top...might want to do something there:
AFM and air filter - Since I kept the original length of the intake tubing, there was really only one place for the filter and AFM to sit. But I didn't want it bouncing around and potentially hitting the + battery terminal. So made a rudimentary bracket to secure the AFM to the battery tray hold down bolt. It ain't pretty, but it'll work. Also followed suggestion and put a little mini filter onto the smog pump.
Full engine bay pic:
and finally looking like a real truck again!
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
Did you name your truck the Orange Creamsicle? 
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #174
Yes. It actually worked out well with the charcoal canister also in the stock location. I mounted the fuel filter to the leg of the battery tray and that worked out nicely. It is a bit messy in that area with all of the wiring coming out of the firewall, charcoal canister, fuel filter and lines, vacuum lines, distributor/coil cable and air filter. But it should work. If I ever desmog, I think it will clean things up a bit.
And Stump...no, but thats the color you end up with when you let a 6 year old choose
. It has been referred to as the orange beast or orange monster 
. I actually like it a lot. I am not usually a bright color type person, but it looks good, particularly with the black trim. I plan to go OD green on the soft top which will look very cool I think.
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
I really like orange and like the look of your truck and I love orange creamsicles too. It just struck me like that.
caboulto,
What did you do about your missing VSS at the sppedometer? I'm putting a 3fe in my 1980 and have the same conundrum.
thx.
What did you do about your missing VSS at the sppedometer? I'm putting a 3fe in my 1980 and have the same conundrum.
thx.
There is a debate about whether it the VSS is needed. I did install one at the transfer case when I did my conversion.
Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #178
i'm pretty sure I didn't hook it up. I am out of the country and away from my cruiser for a couple of years so cannot go check to be sure though. But if I remember right, I never hooked it up. Never noticed any issues.
Good luck with your install. 3FE is sooo much better imo
Good luck with your install. 3FE is sooo much better imo
Thx. I'll see how it goes without it. I started it up for the first time yesterday. I'm very excited!
