My 2014 LC (1 Viewer)

[THEROK]

I just spoke with Byron, the owner of Truline (http://www.yelp.com/biz/tru-line-bellevue-bellevue).

Getting the Slee parts by this Friday. They did me a small favor and got it out in time for delivery this week ( thanks, Slee!).

Truline will be:

-Aligning it to get rid of the numb on-center steering feel at hwy speeds

-Installing the Slee UCAs

-Installing the 722 springs to replace the wrong 723s my negligent vendor in CA sent me and still haven't responded to give me reasons as to why

-Diagnosing and fixing the noise (crossing fingers)

-Shifting the rear axle so wheels sit perfectly side to side (it's slight, but bugs me)

I'll forward the PDF to the shop. Really appreciate the link. Perhaps Slee should doctor up this same doc and share with customers like me who have KDSS LCs. Once done, my LC will be a perfectly sorted urban bruiser with trail aspirations!

 

[THEROK]

I will keeping an eye on this thread. As I also got a rig just like yours. 2013 Black on Black. She is stocker. Any issues with the kdss after installing the lift?

Also, new to this forum. My first post here.

I don't have the right front lean that I've read about on OME collateral. It's perfectly even side to side. My Toyota tech actually did good along this front.

But stuff is going to change so need Truline to come thru now.

 

[THEROK]

I think the attachment from the "kdss valve" thread is what you were referring to

View attachment 845875

What's missing in these instructions is the jostling of the truck after it's been lowered before closing the valves. Right?

 

[chimyz]

What's missing in these instructions is the jostling of the truck after it's been lowered before closing the valves. Right?

Not sure the jostling of the truck is really necessary if opened and closed at the correct times during install of suspension. I once had a guy do some suspension work and I totally forgot to warn him of the KDSS. I called to see how things were going and asked if they had everything on. He said they did, but there was a serious lean and for the last 1/2 hr they couldn't figure it out. I told him I forgot to mention about the KDSS and explained how to open the valves. He said they had the truck on a level surface, opened the valves and it almost 'popped'u right back to level.

 

[sleeoffroad]

There is no adjustment for the rear axle side to side. The only thing that will happen with lower springs the axle shift back to the neutral position. The only way to adjust the actual side to side is with an adjustable panhard rod. Those are not available currently for the 200.

Christo

 

[THEROK]

There is no adjustment for the rear axle side to side. The only thing that will happen with lower springs the axle shift back to the neutral position. The only way to adjust the actual side to side is with an adjustable panhard rod. Those are not available currently for the 200.

Christo

Chim mentioned that you can adjust given the 1cm or so that it's off on my rig. Did I understand incorrectly?

Appreciate all the help but this type of conflicting kind heart intended advice is just what's keeping this... Experiment going. Never boring!

 

[sleeoffroad]

Chim mentioned that you can adjust given the 1cm or so that it's off on my rig. Did I understand incorrectly?

Appreciate all the help but this type of conflicting kind heart intended advice is just what's keeping this... Experiment going. Never boring!

There is no adjustment in the rear other than to loosen the links and tighten at ride height to make sure the bushings are in a neutral position.

Adjustable lower arms like Icon allows pinion angle adjustment not lateral. Adjustable panhard is what you need. Not sure if one is available for the 200.

 

[THEROK]

Chim stated otherwise.

Good total chaos v light racing uca thread which is the same one slee and metal tech sell if my research is correct. Slee's pricing is $25 more than metal tech which I would gladly pay again and again for participation/accessibility. Many thanks.

For my use case I think I made the right decision.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=781950

 

[SoCal FZJ80]

Adjustable Panhards for LC200

Great build thread! The valve adjustments should set you up nicely on the KDSS. Usually in these cases we have to build adjustable pan hard bars while the the cruiser is in for setup. Overall, looks like you have made some informed decisions while building your rig, and it should come out great in the end.

 

[elkaholic]

Suspension Geomery

ROK -

If you think this through for yourself, you will realize that Christo is correct. It really is relatively simple geometry.

The rear suspensions of our 200 series is a basic 5 link suspension with 4 trailing arms and one panhard link (sometimes called a track bar). The rear axle / rear wheels travel through arcs that are defined by the pickup points on the frame and axle for all the links and the length of these links.

Even in stock form, the axle is only precisely centered transversely in one static position. Given the variability in the tolerances of stock parts, the rear axle may or may not be precisely centered at static, stock ride height. Most likely, it was not since everything would have to be perfectly to spec for that to happen (ride height, placement of pickup points on both ends of every link, length of links, bushings, etc.).

In order for the ride and handling to be the same for your lifted truck as stock, a significant amount of engineering has to be done and almost every link in the rear will need to be modified and possibly the pickup points. On race vehicles, all of these items are adjustable for tuning the car to a specific track / application.

If I were in your shoes (and I have been with different vehicles), I would concentrate on getting the handling where you want it over making sure the axle is centered.

If you also think about it a bit, the wheelbase of your truck is now incrementally shorter since the increased static ride height you have obtained has caused the rear axle to move forward horizontally since the trailing arms force the axle to move in an arc.

 

[chimyz]

I stand behind my first comment about getting it aligned and everything re-buttoned up in the back when you do the new 722 springs. I think, if done correctly, it may bring your back better in line. I had the same issues and have since resolved them. I don't think you can just tighten everything unweighted, drop the truck and drive off, and I suspect this is what happened to you.

The Toyota techs are typically not qualified to do aftermarket installations because of their systems. They follow the procedures set up by corporate, which are all written for stock applications. There is no creativity allowed.

As a side note regarding Toyota techs:
I was once in the back arguing with one about how to replace something. He kept telling me that he hadn't removed this one part without ruining it to the point of replacement. I didn't understand and there was no swaying him, it should never been catastrophically ruined (his word) just from removing. It was very frustrating. They don't use any creativity (hammers, pry bars, sawsalls and stuff), and I've found in my experience that sometimes there is another way.

 

[THEROK]

Well, I'll share the results next week where I'll hopefully end up with one oem quality lifted 200 to show all the 80 and 100 haters who call ours Highlanders that the king is dead long live the king. I put myself and rig on blast here because very few have taken the time to share the exact details/travails of lifting a low volume truck.

Big fan of Jonathan ward of ICON. I know exactly how he and Adam feel in this clip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0HagS2gWig&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sent from my Nexus 7

 

[SWUtah]

Yes but it is a very large rugged Highlander, that costs at least 2 times as much before the Mods . I thought my FZJ80 was better looking then my 100's and I will think my 100's looked better then my future 200 series. Nice build information.

 

[sleeoffroad]

I don't think you can just tighten everything unweighted, drop the truck and drive off, and I suspect this is what happened to you

Whenever you remove or loosen a suspension link with bushings, it should be tightened at ride height to make sure that the business are not preloaded. When the truck is lifted it is as good idea to loosen the bolts for the links and tighten them again. However I don't see how this is going to dramatically affect the rear axle position

 

[THEROK]

Whenever you remove or loosen a suspension link with bushings, it should be tightened at ride height to make sure that the business are not preloaded. When the truck is lifted it is as good idea to loosen the bolts for the links and tighten them again. However I don't see how this is going to dramatically affect the rear axle position

I'm sure chim being the veteran that he is is well aware of this thus him pointing it out in lesser words. I am actually aware of this as more of a novice since I've lowered a number or sports cars in the past done by independent Porsche shops. You tighten things down with load on suspension parts else the bushings are constantly being beat on even sitting still. I must say that it's just MUCH easier to find trusthworthy speed shop help than 4x4. Why? I'm guessing there's more money/margins/volume on that side of the pond.

And Chim's point of ref is (as I've also already written out) it's not a "dramatic" change in the rear axle position that I'm asking for. The tire is sticking out ~1-2cm further in the driver side rear fender compared to passenger. It's more noticeable on my rig since I'm running 325s with 25+ offset 18x9 wheels. If tucked in OEM style like most have it even lifted since they typically run bike tire 275s, I don't think i would ever notice. So if getting back 1cm is a dramatic figure, then so be it. I've got to give it a shot since there are no parts in existence atm to throw at it (pan bar).

Thanks for your continued vigilance to this thread.

 

[THEROK]

Are the light racing uca units the same ones that slee sells?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=153280

 

[sleeoffroad]

Light Racing was a company that SPC bought some years ago. SPC is the large company that does tons of alignment products for various markets (http://www.spcalignment.com/)

Light racing was known for the jounce shocks. For some reason the arms became known as Light Racing, even though SPC is trying to faze out that name.

So the short is, they are SPC arms, but they are sometimes called Light Racing.

I skimmed that thread, and even though the ball joints for that poster failed, there is also a lot of unanswered questions.

1. Is he running shocks that allow excessive droop that will damage boll joints.
2. The lubrication was obviously compromised and dirt got into the joint. That will in short order trash the joint.

All in all, we have talked to SPC at lenght about the arms and long levity when abused. They stand behind their product and I am pretty sure if there are issues they will address them. They name is too big in the industry not to do so.

That said, anytime one modifies a vehicle with non stock parts, the customer must accept some of the responsibility that comes with that decision. Most aftermarket parts companies tries to produce the best product they can, but for obvious reasons they do not have the resources behind them that Toyota has to do long term testing etc etc.

Modifying the suspension comes with it's own set of issues. If modify your suspension it is good practice to inspect parts regularly, even more so if the truck is used heavily.

 

[THEROK]

Thanks, Slee. What I had assumed, but wanted clarity.

 

[THEROK]

Update

Just picked it up from Truline in Bellevue. Feedback for Byron is stellar. Even if he hasn't worked on lifted 200s prior to mine, he asks you the right questions and is likely more meticulous than I am which is saying a lot. He's a seasoned CEO/owner of the shop so I will go back to him for future needs without reservation.

Haven't had a chance to drive around much in this rainy weather during a work day, but it definitely feels more OEM post-lift with the softer, shorter 722 OME springs in the rear (compared to the 723s). The car sits more level now coupled with ICON's pre-set front height. Noises seem to have been eliminated all together, though I can't pin-point exactly the cause for noise since I switched up multiple things at once.

The Slee-bought UCAs definitely sit more level to ground than the OEM arms. I like that they look OEM and do not use heim joints (not a fan of them). Again, big thanks to Ben@ Slee for selling me the 722s that they normally bundle as a complete lift kit. 722 springs are on backorder till mid-Jan per ARB in Renton, WA.

My alignment settings are posted below. The drive is like factory now with better dampening and less dive. This is how I wanted it setup from the very beginning, but Connor Gilmer (owner) and staff @ Outlaw Offroad in Orange County made this very difficult and continue to ignore my inquiry to this day asking why my order wasn't fulfilled correctly. Nightmare of a le$$on learned.

Bottom-line, I'm really excited to have things start to sort itself out. Now it's just time to put some miles on this thing and enjoy ownership to its fullest.

Thanks.

 

[chimyz]

Good to hear! Glad the issues worked out.