Builds My 1994 FZJ80 Build (Endurance) (1 Viewer)

[SmokingRocks]

looks like you might need one of these

It sucks having a thumbnail ripped back while wrenching because of fingernails being too long.. Not speaking from experience or anything

 

[lp2k]

@SmokingRocks I'll do a manicure later!!! I need to get these darn parts and figure out if I need a ground on my aux tank or if I don't need one

I have a mechanic I work with

 

[SmokingRocks]

All in good fun my friend. I am pretty sure your tank has to be grounded.

 

[lp2k]

I was thinking the same

But I can't just fabricate my own ground on it... Needs to be "built in the unit"

Really hoping the subject matter experts I tagged can chime in

Or I'll post a new thread

 

[lp2k]

So it turns out I have a diesel sender unit so I need to get a petrol (gasoline) sender unit

Great

I'll test it for connectivity and post for sale

 

[lp2k]

Went ahead and pulled the aftermarket pioneer head unit out I got for the truck and installed it today. I also changed the bulb from my ECT switch. Anyone ever have "intermittent" issues with the ECT switch and the center diff lock sometimes the illumination would flicker? I just tapped it with my finger nail and the center diff lock switch re-illuminated .

I'm not trying to put a $900 head unit as I've had that stolen from my Camry. Here is how it looks. I had to remove the the fake wood trim thing so it would mount

Does anyone knows if these are suppose to be illuminated as well?

 

[95ToyCruiser]

I don't know about the flickering, as mine never illuminated lol, but I got some funky things going on with my clock, work for a week, stop for a while, then work, pita!!!

You have the sweet stopwatch/alarm clock too!!! Is that a 93/94 thing or something? My 93 has it, but my 95 doesn't?

 

[SmokingRocks]

my 93 has it, my 94 had it too

 

[lp2k]

Yea I believe it's only on 93-94 models

 

[lp2k]

Ok so just crawling because I'm working with 3 members on acquiring parts.

Why has the project came to a crawl? Well my weekends are shot with kids and house work. Then on my downtime , I'm browsing mud and CL looking for cool stuff and now I'm running 3 additional mods on top of the current AUX tank retrofit.

So back to the AUX tank. I noticed I have a sender unit that won't work with the petrol / gasoline setup. Called Yan and was able to source one with some other misc. parts for a project.

Went to a local toyota stealer ship and bought the female end for the dash switch for the aux fuel tank button. At least it's something !

$12 towards the aux tank retrofit.

As I'm going through the planning phase, I've realized I will need new male / female connectors for the electric stuff since I can't find the Toyota stuff easily.

 

[lp2k]

This literally arrived at my house after many many weeks and literally I had to put it back in storage so I can take my daughter to gymnastics. Yes I do have the elbow piece and the roof console. Pics will come later . No I am not running the A/C, I'll only be running it for fan purposes only.
Price from fellow mud member $400

 

[Andrew Ling]

Hi. I have a toyota land cruiser 80 series with 79k miles. I am the first owner. Its only been owned by me. I would like to ask you if you had the wind deflector for the moon roof with the screws and everything? Can you help me look around? Im not a specialist at looking for OEM parts. I dont need the wind deflector for the moonroof. Just the screws and the attacthment pieces. My dad lost them -.- thx!

 

[lp2k]

I don't think you can buy just the screws as it is part of a kit

I may be wrong but maybe someone parting out a wrecked truck may have what your are searching for

These trucks are very old now, many parts are discontinued

 

[lp2k]

 

[lp2k]

Ok so my other package arrived and finally got to switching my old aux tank sender unit to the needed and correct petrol / gasoline one [ 83320-69215 ] with 3 pins.

I did spray the screws with some liquid wrench and the old screws came off without a struggle

Time to drop the new one in. I must add that the 5 screws does have a preference on how they line up

Also came the other cooler box, I got this other box because it was a package deal and I needed the lines, not the box. Well I guess a spare doesn't hurt and if my brown one isn't working ... I have the grey for parts in case the brown fails but I must say the grey one was pulled and working but the brown is in far far better condition

Total price for cooler box, lines and sender unit: $475

 

[rc51kid]

Great truck. Dont take this the wrong way but you are killing my with the parts prices. PLEASE PM CDan, Beno or Sam. Just get everything from them. Also grab a FSM instead of paying for labor. If you can pull apart your dash you can do most of the jobs you posted yourself. You will save money, get to know your truck and be amazed by what you can do.

 

[lp2k]

@rc51kid I would love to work with them, but the parts I need for my project are not found in USA or no longer in production.

I would like to pioneer something a little different then what has been covered already on the board. Hopefully get some 80 member to push themselves to think and try different things

 

[lp2k]

Got some time to do some errands yesterday and today. So getting back to the aux tank. There are probably a million different ways on getting this done. Years have passed since the install was done by mud members who are listed in the FAQ.

Fast forward to 3/2015. Dead horse topic of rivnuts or rivet nuts (same thing).

The tank came with the M10 bolts but had a thread of 1.25. If you search for rivnuts in a M10 to accommodate 1.25 thread, you won't find it.

After going to McMaster, grainger and fastenal, the only Rivnut to accommodate a M10 bolt is with thread 1.5.

Now, the bolt that Toyota used and came with my aux tank, had a washer and crush washer on it. From what I have researched (which wasn't too much) was on why did the Toyota M10 bolt came this way.

One was measured with 40mm and the other was 30mm

I was able to recreate this setup by going to Home Depot and finding the bolts / washer / crush washer. Spent $12 to get the M10 bolt with 1.5 threading. Now I have to go back to Grainger and make sure they will fit. The pack of 25 rivnuts are $42 from Grainger.

I was able to also get the project box and a 9 pin male/female connectors from RadioShack. Another $10 since I want the chip to be protected. I will drill a hole and place a rubber grommet to allow the wires to exit the project box. Once I see someone with a drill press (or I'll drill it myself at home)

 

[lp2k]

Pic of my locked white 80 and taking it 60 miles south to do some errands

 

[lp2k]

Here is the little project box with the hole drilled to let the wires out. I got anxious and said I'll use my drill and hope for the best. Came out pretty good and clean. I have to solder wires to George ECU and then a pigtail which will join the sub tank switch and fuel pump.

Ok this is going to meet up the back end of the sub tank switch. I agree, I am not soldering directly onto a $70 switch. I was able to also find a connector that I can use to take and reassign the pins. Taking a factory female toyota connector apart requires a lot of patience and pick tools that are small and strong