time to really see the limits of the 100 front diff and CV's, carry on. some 4.88's and/or transfer case gears would do you well. I want to see this on some rocks.
MTKID's IFS UZJ100 on 37's Build Thread
- Thread starter MTKID
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- Thread starter
- #42
It got totaled in a hail storm this fall and they offered me a very reasonable amount for it that I took. I know where it is sitting in the CoPart lot and have had a few friends keeping an eye out for it to come to auction but it’s still just sitting there for now.
Yes Nuke, it did blow it up in the spring and only on the 37’s. I really wanted to regear and lock the front but I never got a chance before the hail storm. The 40’s wouldn’t have lasted long on the stock front diff and gearing would have been WAY off, so I wasn’t planning on running them before the re-gear.
I sold the 37’s but still have the TRD RW beadlocks in the garage in case my wife lets me play with our LX570 a little more, or in case the 100 can come back into my possession.
If I could do it all over again I would do the same thing but work toward the re-gear and locking the front sooner in the hopes that the front diff survives a little longer. I didn’t wheel it too often and not too crazy of terrain, with winter trips probably my favorite. We’ll see if I can get out on the snow again this year in something or if I just spend the time skiing with my fam.
Micah
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Poz'd.
Hi MTKIT!
Love your build thread
I am trying to get all info I can get on fitting 37s on my '98 HDJ100 AHC IFS.
I am interested in what you would improve in the next version.
I did get the regearing point but at this moment I am more interested in creating the space for these huge pieces of rubber.
One of my ideas is modifying the lower control arms of the IFS, and position the wheel 25 mm forward. Less conflict with the body and about 3 degrees extra caster.
I am living in The Gambia and whatever your modifications are, it's always road legal here
. This makes it a lot easier.
Hope to hear from you!
Love your build thread
I am trying to get all info I can get on fitting 37s on my '98 HDJ100 AHC IFS.
I am interested in what you would improve in the next version.
I did get the regearing point but at this moment I am more interested in creating the space for these huge pieces of rubber.
One of my ideas is modifying the lower control arms of the IFS, and position the wheel 25 mm forward. Less conflict with the body and about 3 degrees extra caster.
I am living in The Gambia and whatever your modifications are, it's always road legal here
. This makes it a lot easier. Hope to hear from you!
- Thread starter
- #46
As I mentioned on your other post, I think I would try a sloped or tapered body lift. Taller in the front than 1”.
To prevent burning your truck to the ground when welding the lower firewall back up I would recommend the very time consuming (and intimidating) task of removing the dash, all electronics and wiring from the areas you will be cutting into. Then with things very clearly visible you may be able to cut even more when you know where things could go as you put them back together.
As far as the lower control arm, I like that idea. I wouldn’t have had the comfort to modify mine and trust it structurally, and you’ll want to keep an eye on the CV angles that get created at full droop.
The rear end of my truck would have benefited from the panhard bracket that became available to keep the rear suspension cycling more vertically. I never got around to that either.
The 37’s on my truck tucked really nicely in the back with little fuss but someone could lower their bump stops if they ran into some issues. I always tried to crawl slowly and rarely bounced my truck, which may have helped with rubbing.
I hope you have success
To prevent burning your truck to the ground when welding the lower firewall back up I would recommend the very time consuming (and intimidating) task of removing the dash, all electronics and wiring from the areas you will be cutting into. Then with things very clearly visible you may be able to cut even more when you know where things could go as you put them back together.
As far as the lower control arm, I like that idea. I wouldn’t have had the comfort to modify mine and trust it structurally, and you’ll want to keep an eye on the CV angles that get created at full droop.
The rear end of my truck would have benefited from the panhard bracket that became available to keep the rear suspension cycling more vertically. I never got around to that either.
The 37’s on my truck tucked really nicely in the back with little fuss but someone could lower their bump stops if they ran into some issues. I always tried to crawl slowly and rarely bounced my truck, which may have helped with rubbing.
I hope you have success
- Thread starter
- #47
I think most of these were posted elsewhere but I’ll go ahead and drop them here too...
This was the last winter trip I took. Jan19’ Worst black ice I’ve ever driven on getting to and from the mountains and bitter cold and windy in the valley but it was fine up on the mountain due to an inversion.
Beadlocks allowed for a safe 4-5psi and excellent progress considering they were just AT’s
This was the last winter trip I took. Jan19’ Worst black ice I’ve ever driven on getting to and from the mountains and bitter cold and windy in the valley but it was fine up on the mountain due to an inversion.
Beadlocks allowed for a safe 4-5psi and excellent progress considering they were just AT’s
Thanks for sharing your ideas and knowledge.As I mentioned on your other post, I think I would try a sloped or tapered body lift. Taller in the front than 1”.
To prevent burning your truck to the ground when welding the lower firewall back up I would recommend the very time consuming (and intimidating) task of removing the dash, all electronics and wiring from the areas you will be cutting into. Then with things very clearly visible you may be able to cut even more when you know where things could go as you put them back together.
As far as the lower control arm, I like that idea. I wouldn’t have had the comfort to modify mine and trust it structurally, and you’ll want to keep an eye on the CV angles that get created at full droop.
The rear end of my truck would have benefited from the panhard bracket that became available to keep the rear suspension cycling more vertically. I never got around to that either.
The 37’s on my truck tucked really nicely in the back with little fuss but someone could lower their bump stops if they ran into some issues. I always tried to crawl slowly and rarely bounced my truck, which may have helped with rubbing.
I hope you have success
As one of my previous careers was a welder/fabricator so I am not worried about modifying the lower control arms. I've done plenty of structural repairs/mods/serious metal construction.
I hardly use my low gear so I am not to worried about the front diff. I only use low on the beach which is no longer needed with 37s. No rocks or hills/mountains here.
My daily commuting here in The Gambia is on dirt roads. Very interesting in the rainy season, often the water is up to my sills. The sand lorries really destroy the roads here.
My objectives are gaining offroad driving comfort (tall tires on low pressure) and being able to drive faster on dirt roads (again possible because the tall tires absorb the bumps a lot better).
The extra caster will help with extra straightforward stability.
I have my own garage including a Hunter wheel alignment machine
Because of a winch + TJM bumper it's a bit nose heavy and thinking about putting an extra set of shock son the front. They can sit on the location of the removed sway bar. And limiting straps to absorb the rebound.
Only one question left about your build: what offset were the rims as you used only 3/8 spacers?
I want to use 17 inch Landcruiser 200 rims (offset 60) with 30 mm spacers. Total offset will be 30.
Cheers!
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks for sharing your ideas and knowledge.
As one of my previous careers was a welder/fabricator so I am not worried about modifying the lower control arms. I've done plenty of structural repairs/mods/serious metal construction.
I hardly use my low gear so I am not to worried about the front diff. I only use low on the beach which is no longer needed with 37s. No rocks or hills/mountains here.
My daily commuting here in The Gambia is on dirt roads. Very interesting in the rainy season, often the water is up to my sills. The sand lorries really destroy the roads here.
My objectives are gaining offroad driving comfort (tall tires on low pressure) and being able to drive faster on dirt roads (again possible because the tall tires absorb the bumps a lot better).
The extra caster will help with extra straightforward stability.
I have my own garage including a Hunter wheel alignment machine
Because of a winch + TJM bumper it's a bit nose heavy and thinking about putting an extra set of shock son the front. They can sit on the location of the removed sway bar. And limiting straps to absorb the rebound.
Only one question left about your build: what offset were the rims as you used only 3/8 spacers?
I want to use 17 inch Landcruiser 200 rims (offset 60) with 30 mm spacers. Total offset will be 30.
Cheers!
I was running the Tundra Rock Warrior wheel on my truck when it was on 37’s and I think it had a larger spacer than 3/8” at that point. I thought I was running the narrowest adapter I could with 37’s which was 3/4”. A quick search about the wheel I ran showed this... Rock Warrior rims are 17x8 with a +50 offset, so that makes the BS about 6.4"
When I had the true beadlock added by OMF they said it added about 1/2” to the outside edge.
Hope that helps.
Yes it does! Tnx.
Offset 50 with 3/4 spacer is offset 31. Which matches the 30 I was planning to do
This is great! I just finished up a 2" body, lift....and feel the need to put in some 37"... but my wheel is a 12 offset, so we will see. It will be a daily as well, my wife's, so no off road at all, all cosmetics.
- Thread starter
- #52
Well done! Are you willing to do some fender trimming too, if needed?
I look forward to seeing it
nope, the fenders will have to stay as is...but fender well's if needed for sure. allmost wish I wend 3" lift now...I had to make a bunch of brackets, so an extra 1" wouldn't have mattered...maybe on our grey 02Well done! Are you willing to do some fender trimming too, if needed?
I look forward to seeing it
- Thread starter
- #54
Well, one 37” tire just for test fitting couldn’t hurt
Although I’m a proponent of body lifts, I’d try to keep it as low as possible. It’s amazing how good a little larger front fender opening looks
I don't love cutting fenders. the grey 02 may get it though, and a body lift as well. The 00' is mint, with only 16k on odo...so no cutting fenders as it's showroom.Well, one 37” tire just for test fitting couldn’t hurt
Although I’m a proponent of body lifts, I’d try to keep it as low as possible. It’s amazing how good a little larger front fender opening looks
- Thread starter
- #56
Wow! Only 16k miles. I could see why you want to keep it clean
I have a set of 37" on some FJ wheels here, so no help on the 100...but just sitting them in the openings, they clear no prob...but like you know, it's the turning on the front.Wow! Only 16k miles. I could see why you want to keep it clean
