Mstudt's 94 LC Adventures and Build (1 Viewer)

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The platform looks amazing. The material you use is very cool.

If it extended all the way to cover the second row (all the way to the front seats) it would be perfect for my needs.

I'm going to design full deletes, and just a removable sleeping deck that'll for those that want to keep their backseats.

Mike
 
Nice work, Looks heavy
 
With the weather getting nicer, that means a little more time to work on the Cruiser. Both door lock actuators in the rear doors had very little movement when locking/unlocking the doors. I ended up replacing them with Aisin actuators from Rock Auto (links below). I also replaced the exterior window molding on all 4 doors since mine was peeling apart. Since I had the rear doors pulled apart, and I also took that opportunity to replace the rear speakers. I plan on adding some sound deadening to the doors along with new plastic vapor barriers.

Molding:
FLH - 75720-60021
FRH - 75710-60021
RLH - 75740-60020
RRH - 75730-60020

Aisin Actuators:
RLH - DLT089
RRH - DLT088

Rear Speakers:
Sound Ordinance P-40B


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Continuation of the pervious post.

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When I was working on my rear wire harness. I noticed a good amount of water in sitting in the rear quarter panel, and I had to pull the drain plug to empty it out. While installing a new rear bumper on my 4runner, I noticed that they have drain plugs that let the water seep out. I pulled one off the 4runner to see if it would fit the Cruiser, and sure enough it did. I ordered a couple of them, and put them on the Cruiser.

I will address the water issue once the rain stops, and I can replace all the weather stripping.

57442-95J00

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I've been designing my own parts as needed for the 80, and now it looks like a couple more might be going into production with the recent events of another supplier. I already have tailgate handles, and manual hatch lock pulls. I have shift lock release buttons going up for a sale very soon, and getting ready to place a stocking order for steering linkage. Next up is another simple solution, and something that was made in the past. My oh-s*** handle mounts are universal, and are not side specific. They'll come with a spacer, and are compatible with 67 Design ball mounts.

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It's been a couple months since my last post and thought I'd give a small update. I was able to complete my door resto project a few weeks ago. That consisted of new speakers, door lock actuators, window regulators, door belting, weather stripping, and vapor seals. I didn't get pictures of everything, but I didn't get pictures of the entire process.

I also completed a batch of shift lock buttons and some center console molle panel kits.

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I didn't take hardly any pictures of my latest progress. As you might have seen from previous posts, I have/had electrical issues due to water leaking from the windshield area. I was able to find a used harness (82161-60042) that runs from the ECU along the floor to the back, and get it swapped out last weekend. The swap went well, and all electrical issues are good so far. I even figured out a simply theft deterrent while putting everything back together.

Additionally, I pulled the carpet for a deep cleaning and scrubbing. A little sound deadening was applied to the floor and rear wheel well while everything was pulled apart.

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While I don't drive my 80 very much. By very much I mean less than 100 miles since purchasing it 10 months ago. I have noticed the lack in braking power, and slowly sinking brake pedal. The first thing I did was pull the master cylinder, and attempt to rebuild the OEM unit that I pulled. After a little inspection I noticed a scratch on the cylinder wall, and decided to replace it with one from Cruiser Outfitters.

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Now that the master cylinder has been replaced I wanted to tackle the brakes. I was prepared to replace the rotors and pads on all 4 corners, and swap out brake lines for Slee's stainless lines. But things didn't go as easy as I had hoped. I pulled the rear wheels, removed the calipers, and the frozen brake pads. The brake pads on both sides were seized to the brackets, and I had 1 seized caliper. I was able to find calipers at Napa, and got everything swapped out. Things appear to be good as new with the Powerstop rotors and pads.

After installing the rear parts I bled the entire system with a power bleeder. Now I need to drive it to see how it stops.

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I did a pretty easy upgrade yesterday. I had one broken washer fluid nozzle, but went ahead and replaced both. I upgraded to the 3 nozzle replacement, and replaced the hood insulator while I was at it.

Parts:
85381-42070 Nozzle
90099-33080 Tubing
83341-60100 Insulator
90467-09014 Insulator Clip

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I've been slowly plugging away at the exhaust for a couple of weeks now. What started as a simple O2 sensor change has ended in new exhaust. While removing the O2 sensors I noticed several small holes in the downpipes. Based on how the nuts and bolts looked, I can assume this was all original. I cut most of the parts off with a recip saw, and ground a couple bolts down where it mattered. While removing the downpipes from the manifolds I snapped 3 of the 4 bolts, so I had to remove the manifolds too. I should have my new studs today, and manifold gaskets tomorrow.

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Additional progress on the manifolds. All of the original stud have been removed, and replaced with new hardware from Yotashop. I'm hoping to install the exhaust and new O2 sensors next week.

For anyone that has removed the exhaust manifolds before. Did you replace the studs in the head? Or just leave the originals.

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The exhaust is finished, and this took way longer than it should have. The new exhaust and O2 sensors really helped smooth things out.

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Onto the next hack job on my Cruiser, and I'm sure not the last. I've been working on the rear locker here and there, but nothing too serious. Last week I decided to pull things apart since my issue was with the actuator itself. After pulling everything, and opening up the actuator. I notice that a couple of magnets were broken and/or no longer attached and think this may have been the issue.

I have most parts put back together, but I still need to fix the vehicle 6 pin connector. This connector was removed from my Cruiser, and spliced to the actuator wire. I was able to source the the male plug, terminals, weather seals, and random part for the rebuild. Most parts from Partsouq and Corsa for the electrical items.

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