Mstudt's 94 LC Adventures and Build (1 Viewer)

[Mstudt]

I came across some welting (think that's what it's called) for the door openings this past week, and swapped them in on the four doors. My Cruiser was obviously from a former smoker based on the yellowing seen on most interior parts, and I can't get over the difference in these.

Mike

 

[Mstudt]

Here's continuation from post #18. I was able to find a harness locally that need to a little fixing, but the part I needed was in good shape. I was hopeful that replacing my old harness with a good one would fix my issues, but it didn't. At least I have the piece of mind that the harness is fixed.

 

[Mstudt]

The next step in a rear drawer system is complete. Now that the drawer modules are complete, I can start the drawer configuration. I'm happy with the fit this far, and think that might be enough room for the AluCab tilting fridge slide that I have.

Mike

 

[CharlieS]

Nice setup. That frame looks similar to the Air Down Gear Up boxes, which I ran on my 200 for a while. Based on that experience, I'd highly recommend loctite on every fastener, and use a good T handle allen wrench. Bolts holding mine together kept coming loose. I also run an Alucab tilt/slide, and it works well. I've had it mounted to three different drawer setups. One thing I like to do is install a sacrificial aluminum angle where the slide is near the edge.

 

[Mstudt]

Nice setup. That frame looks similar to the Air Down Gear Up boxes, which I ran on my 200 for a while. Based on that experience, I'd highly recommend loctite on every fastener, and use a good T handle allen wrench. Bolts holding mine together kept coming loose. I also run an Alucab tilt/slide, and it works well. I've had it mounted to three different drawer setups. One thing I like to do is install a sacrificial aluminum angle where the slide is near the edge.

We're all very similar in some regards for building of drawer units. Most companies use some form of extrusion since you can't beat the weight and strength of that material. All builders have their own unique style, but we all use extrusion.

Mike

 

[CharlieS]

We're all very similar in some regards for building of drawer units. Most companies use some form of extrusion since you can't beat the weight and strength of that material. All builders have their own unique style, but we all use extrusion.

Mike

I was just relaying that I had specific experience with boxes using that style of construction as a lead in to my suggestion of using Loctite and a t-handle wrench for assembly.

 

[Mstudt]

I was just relaying that I had specific experience with boxes using that style of construction as a lead in to my suggestion of using Loctite and a t-handle wrench for assembly.

Sorry man, I had only responded to the part about builders and materials, and not your direct experience. Loctite is a good thing to use since the bolt do loosen over time. I see it all the time on the 3-way corner screws, and deal that on my personal set-ups too. I usually pull my units out once a year, and always find a few that are loose in the corners.

Mike

 

[Mstudt]

For the past month or so I was determined to figure out what was going on with the shift lock. First I found a carpenters pencil in the shift lock hole, so you this has been an issue for a while. That lead to the trailer harness, given its condition I thought that was going to be it. After that didn't fix it I moved up front to the center console, and pulled that apart. I did some tests based on the information that I found in the EWD, and concluded that I wasn't getting power from the ECU IG fuse (fuse was good). With help from @jonheld, he pointed me in the correct direction, and found that I didn't have continuity across that wire. I ordered a few pins from Ballenger Motorsports, and had a working shift lock about 20 minutes later.

1-Ground (approx 12v with IG SW at ON) - pulling 11.69 volts (looks good)
3-Ground (approx 12v with IG SW at ON) - pulling .58 volts (looks NOT good)
5-Ground (Continuity) - pulling .4 ohms (looks good)
6-Ground (approx 12v when brake pedal depressed) - pulling 11.86 volts (looks good)

 

[Mstudt]

Now that I can put my center console back together. My 94 requires you to stick a screwdriver through a small hole to release the shift lock, and I wanted the shift lock button instead. I was able to find a broken shift lock button from a friend that I glued back together so I can design a new one. If there's interest in these buttons I'll consider making a batch of them.

 

[Broski]

Now that I can put my center console back together. My 94 requires you to stick a screwdriver through a small hole to release the shift lock, and I wanted the shift lock button instead. I was able to find a broken shift lock button from a friend that I glued back together so I can design a new one. If there's interest in these buttons I'll consider making a batch of them.

I’m interested in one.
Although I have never had a issue with my 94

 

[CharlieS]

I’m interested in one.
Although I have never had a issue with my 94

I'm also interested in one. Mine's a 1994 too.

 

[Mstudt]

I've had these Rosen visors sitting on the shelf for a couple of months now, and thought it was about time to get them installed. I made a couple caps to cover the OEM clip locations, and think they turned out pretty good. Seems like I just keep adding things to the maybe production list.

 

[AgentOrange]

I'm also interested in one. Mine's a 1994 too.

Same for me as well. The one you made looks great

 

[Mstudt]

I’m interested in one.
Although I have never had a issue with my 94

I'm also interested in one. Mine's a 1994 too.

Same for me as well. The one you made looks great

I'm going to get these on order, and they'll be red instead of black. Seems like more people want the red JDM look over the black. It's be a couple a weeks, but I'll let you know once they're ready to ship.

Mike