Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Partsouq has them for ~$95.
Motor mounts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SWUtah
- Start date
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If the budget/finances dictate.....then products from Beck/Arnley or even Febest can give decent service.
Just don't take a chance on cheap Ebay or Amazon versions. More and more its becoming a problem to avoid 'counterfeit' parts anyway.... so buy from reputable sources whatever you decide upon.
Order done
By the way, they just call me said that for 2004 LC100 the wiper motor part number is 85110-60300, 5 dollars more...
By the way, they just call me said that for 2004 LC100 the wiper motor part number is 85110-60300, 5 dollars more...
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FYI, the trans crossmember from Febest is no good. The bolts to the transmission don’t line up. I spent a good hour under there trying to figure it out (as most of my issues tend to be operator error) to no satisfaction. Would not bolt up no matter what. YMMV.
I'll bet that yanked a knot in your tail!
I made up several new curse words which I will release for the general public at some point this summer....
have you replaced the transmission mount already? I've always replaced it at the same time as the engine mounts.Order done
View attachment 2665362
By the way, they just call me said that for 2004 LC100 the wiper motor part number is 85110-60300, 5 dollars more...
I don't normally endorse any aftermarket part until I've been running it for 5 years. Since my Dynaflow like driving style is easy on motor mounts, I've been able to run RockAuto mounts on other vehicles for years without issue, I took a chance on some Beck mounts. I remember reusing the metal protective cover from the original mounts after being repainted. Installation was easy considering I had to work around AHC lines at the time. I used new nuts and bolts for some reason that I can't recall. The main mount bolt torqued up well. I don't expect it to vibrate loose.
I do periodically check the engine underside for issues and will be looking for anything abnormal. I'm also planning to pull the engine for a complete reseal possibly next year.
So I'll get a chance to see how these are holding up. At 235,000 miles the old mounts were cracked at the top. I've seen worse but it was time to replace 21+-year-old rubber.
When it came to the transmission mount, I wanted to go with another OEM. While not cracked, I could see the old rubber had become hard and weathered. The new transmission mount that I installed with the TT creeper skid did seem to add a modicum of smoothness.
Overall I don't feel any engine or drive train vibrations or clunks with the LX. The old-school smoothness reminds me of driving an old Buick nailhead.
I do periodically check the engine underside for issues and will be looking for anything abnormal. I'm also planning to pull the engine for a complete reseal possibly next year.
So I'll get a chance to see how these are holding up. At 235,000 miles the old mounts were cracked at the top. I've seen worse but it was time to replace 21+-year-old rubber.
When it came to the transmission mount, I wanted to go with another OEM. While not cracked, I could see the old rubber had become hard and weathered. The new transmission mount that I installed with the TT creeper skid did seem to add a modicum of smoothness.
Overall I don't feel any engine or drive train vibrations or clunks with the LX. The old-school smoothness reminds me of driving an old Buick nailhead.
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you mean 1237150180 in my order right? are there totally 3 mount (2 motor 1 trans)?
I do!
I do!
well, how you replace it? do we need to have a jack support the bottom of the trans oil pan?
I’ve had new OE trans / engine mounts installed this week. Old rubber was slightly crusty on the outside, hardened but not separated from metal. LX470 2000.
A cabin drone most noticeable between 70-75MPH on acceleration / engine shifting into low RPM was corrected with new CV axles, 2 hunter elite RFB jobs on new tires and the new mounts. The mounts made the most noticeable difference.
Vibration was also greatly reduced.
A cabin drone most noticeable between 70-75MPH on acceleration / engine shifting into low RPM was corrected with new CV axles, 2 hunter elite RFB jobs on new tires and the new mounts. The mounts made the most noticeable difference.
Vibration was also greatly reduced.
Hello,
Just wanted to add here from my own personal experience, did my 3 mounts this week, not a hard job, I think releasing the fan shroud is a must, don't see how the engine can be raised enough to replace the motor mounts without at least getting the shroud free from the radiator.
As a few mentioned, one of the 2 nuts holding the motor mounts to the frame is captive, took me a few to figure that, asking myself why the factory will use different size nuts for the same application, the smaller nut/bolt are 14mm, the bolt into the captive nut goes from above and it's also a 14mm, the nut to the top stud is a 17mm, easier to remove plastic splash shields and access through top of wheel on driver's side, passenger side access from engine compartment under header.
I loosened nuts and bolts on two fronts first, leaving them on with a few threads, and using wood 2x4 pieces of different sizes placing them on a jack to try and lift one side at a time so I can insert stud trough engine support leg without moving the engine around too much.
Transmission mount is easier, just support the weight, remove crossmember, replace mount, install mount the correct way (oem has an R stamped on the rubber goes to rear of car, and a pink dot going to driver's side), tighten up loosely first to get everything back in place in it's natural position.
The old motor mounts were hard as a rock, started to split, the transmission mount was still pliable, maybe replaced in the past? Made everything much smoother, fixed the vibrations at idle, feels good. Find myself speeding sometimes since I got used to know how fast I'm going based on how much it shakes.
Next is tires, and considering driveshaft to make it smooth as butter.
Used OEM from Partsouq, $360 for the 3 mounts delivered in 3 days to Miami.
Thanks for all the info here did the job in 3 hrs including oil change and driveshafts lube.
Just wanted to add here from my own personal experience, did my 3 mounts this week, not a hard job, I think releasing the fan shroud is a must, don't see how the engine can be raised enough to replace the motor mounts without at least getting the shroud free from the radiator.
As a few mentioned, one of the 2 nuts holding the motor mounts to the frame is captive, took me a few to figure that, asking myself why the factory will use different size nuts for the same application, the smaller nut/bolt are 14mm, the bolt into the captive nut goes from above and it's also a 14mm, the nut to the top stud is a 17mm, easier to remove plastic splash shields and access through top of wheel on driver's side, passenger side access from engine compartment under header.
I loosened nuts and bolts on two fronts first, leaving them on with a few threads, and using wood 2x4 pieces of different sizes placing them on a jack to try and lift one side at a time so I can insert stud trough engine support leg without moving the engine around too much.
Transmission mount is easier, just support the weight, remove crossmember, replace mount, install mount the correct way (oem has an R stamped on the rubber goes to rear of car, and a pink dot going to driver's side), tighten up loosely first to get everything back in place in it's natural position.
The old motor mounts were hard as a rock, started to split, the transmission mount was still pliable, maybe replaced in the past? Made everything much smoother, fixed the vibrations at idle, feels good. Find myself speeding sometimes since I got used to know how fast I'm going based on how much it shakes.
Next is tires, and considering driveshaft to make it smooth as butter.
Used OEM from Partsouq, $360 for the 3 mounts delivered in 3 days to Miami.
Thanks for all the info here did the job in 3 hrs including oil change and driveshafts lube.
2000 with 225K miles.
Replaced all 3 mounts yesterday. Looks like it was past due.
Drivers side fell out in 2 pieces. Trans mount looked perfectly pliable as others have said. Probably could have skipped it and saved some money.
Idle is know luxury car smooth and quiet as compared to some vibrations I was feeling prior.
Replaced all 3 mounts yesterday. Looks like it was past due.
Drivers side fell out in 2 pieces. Trans mount looked perfectly pliable as others have said. Probably could have skipped it and saved some money.
Idle is know luxury car smooth and quiet as compared to some vibrations I was feeling prior.
YardPig
SILVER Star
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I’m wondering the same thing.I think the FSM says to put a 2*4 on a jack under the trans pan to support it when you take off the cross member. Is that right? Is the pan strong enough to support part of the trans weight?
I am getting ready to order the mounts. Should I order and replace the idler pulley as well?
I am planning to order the mounts along with some front differential bushings. Can please elaborate more on doing wheel bearings and steering rack before the mounts. Mine has 185k. I have the vibration when on D and stopped at the light.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Maybe it will be obvious when I do this, but you said do one side at a time but I am trying to visualize how, if you are lifting the engine from a central point (under the oil pan), it won't raise both sides at the same time? Im having a hard time explaining it though.
Raising from a central point underneath ( bell housing) with one side unbolted, it will lift that one side enough to pull the mount out. It doesn't take too much lift.
