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- #2,501
Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter GLTHFJ60
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- #2,503
Since CMCC 2014, all I've done is replaced the spare rear driveshaft with a new one from Oliver's driveline. Took Moonshine out wheeling at Uwharrie for Cruisin the Carolinas - Logan's Run 2014 and beat the snot out of her once more. Blew out one of my shocks in doing so.
It was slick as snot. Just about everyone had to get winched:
Leucas had a blast on his second wheeling trip!
Ate like kings:
It was slick as snot. Just about everyone had to get winched:
Leucas had a blast on his second wheeling trip!
Ate like kings:
- Thread starter
- #2,504
- Thread starter
- #2,505
- Thread starter
- #2,506
Last night I went to replace the leaky pinion seal that I've had for a while. In an act of stupidity, I got the seal for the 1410 yoke and get to do it again! 
I did pick up a sweet new toy though
I did pick up a sweet new toy though
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Nice "Toy".
Were those pics of Onur's truck at Logan's run? I thought he said it had a hole in the piston?
Were those pics of Onur's truck at Logan's run? I thought he said it had a hole in the piston?
- Thread starter
- #2,508
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
You tell us how that blue plasma do .. I'm totally blue, and I'm willing to get one of those next year ..
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 233
- Messages
- 21,797
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
I have 2 rules for welding....
1) shop welding .. Miller
2) field welding .. Lincoln
J
1) shop welding .. Miller
2) field welding .. Lincoln
J
- Thread starter
- #2,511
Will do buddy!
I've been told that the Hobart I got is basically a Miller unit. It even has a Miller torch
Guess I share at least the first rule! I'm looking forward to some cool projects with it
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 233
- Messages
- 21,797
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
Johnny, Hobarts are good machines. We still have one at the ranch in TX. It is as old, if not older, than me and burns rod as good as most machines I've ever used..
I pipeline welded for a few years and the rule was ... IF IT AIN'T GRAY.... IT CAN'T STAY!.. HA!
Others will argue my rules, but I have always found them to work the best for me..
J
I pipeline welded for a few years and the rule was ... IF IT AIN'T GRAY.... IT CAN'T STAY!.. HA!
Others will argue my rules, but I have always found them to work the best for me..
J
- Thread starter
- #2,513
Pulled the yoke, cleaned her up and put the correct seal in, with loc-tite this time. No more leaks!
TLC Norway
woodwelder
I like... Beef!
- Thread starter
- #2,516
I've been living with an internal aneroid leak for quite a while, visible as a leak through the vent port on the back of the aneroid. Using this link as a reference, and Steve's (eggman) advice from the 4BTSwaps forum, I went and replaced it today. Talk about a PITA to replace an o-ring that's only 7mm in diameter!!
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/leaking-fuel-pin-o-ring-t244296.html
There was tons of evidence of old diesel in the aneroid, which appears to have caused a varnish to develop inside the aneroid. This was thoroughly cleaned.
While working, I also found a loose motor mount nut and a frayed throttle cable, both of which were fixed. Good thing I finally got around to this o-ring replacement!!
I'll spare you most of the boring disassembly/reassembly pictures and focus on the o-ring itself. After removing the top cover, you have to remove the central rod that holds the middle bracket, so that the fuel pin follower can be removed. To do so, you have to punch out two stupid ball bearings that Cummins decided to use as retainers for this shaft. Lots of cussing and a few bent punches later, she was out.
After that point, the cover and retainer nut for the fuel pin follower can be removed, followed by the fuel pin follower and the associated brackets/o-ring. The o-rings have the following dimensions:
Here you can see the fuel pin inside of its black holder, with a new o-ring and the brass cap. This assembly is slid into the aneroid:
Here you can see the installed fuel pin follower assembly:
Reassemble the top cover, reinstall the top cover onto the injection pump after thoroughly cleaning everything:
Varnish removed, all nice and clean:
When reinstalling the top cover, I realized that I had the throttle max travel screw turned way, way too far in, so much so that I was restricting throttle travel by a solid 20% (towards WOT), effectively meaning that I was never able to reach WOT. I readjusted and realized that now my pedal couldn't move far enough, so I removed the pedal stop from the floor insdie the truck, as I was replacing the frayed throttle cable.
Needless to say she runs after dissecting the motor's brain once again, but holy crap am I surprised how much better she runs.
I now hit 30psi by 2150rpm (maybe earlier, gauges moving so fast it's hard to tell) and max boost is up to 36psi. With the aneroid functioning properly now, I get a haze when under boost. Need to take some driving videos tomorrow so I can get a better idea how much there is. She is quite a bit more powerful too, judging by the seat of the pants dyno of course
I don't know why I waited so long to fix this problem, but damn, I'm glad its fixed now!!
In other news, Josh [MEMBER]cruiser guy[/MEMBER] sent me a set of 6 injectors from his motor swap/build project. He ended up having to replace his and sent me his old cores for free!!! I can't wait to get these rebuilt and installed. Thanks Josh!!!
Stay tuned, more updates to come tomorrow.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/leaking-fuel-pin-o-ring-t244296.html
There was tons of evidence of old diesel in the aneroid, which appears to have caused a varnish to develop inside the aneroid. This was thoroughly cleaned.
While working, I also found a loose motor mount nut and a frayed throttle cable, both of which were fixed. Good thing I finally got around to this o-ring replacement!!
I'll spare you most of the boring disassembly/reassembly pictures and focus on the o-ring itself. After removing the top cover, you have to remove the central rod that holds the middle bracket, so that the fuel pin follower can be removed. To do so, you have to punch out two stupid ball bearings that Cummins decided to use as retainers for this shaft. Lots of cussing and a few bent punches later, she was out.
After that point, the cover and retainer nut for the fuel pin follower can be removed, followed by the fuel pin follower and the associated brackets/o-ring. The o-rings have the following dimensions:
Here you can see the fuel pin inside of its black holder, with a new o-ring and the brass cap. This assembly is slid into the aneroid:
Here you can see the installed fuel pin follower assembly:
Reassemble the top cover, reinstall the top cover onto the injection pump after thoroughly cleaning everything:
Varnish removed, all nice and clean:
When reinstalling the top cover, I realized that I had the throttle max travel screw turned way, way too far in, so much so that I was restricting throttle travel by a solid 20% (towards WOT), effectively meaning that I was never able to reach WOT. I readjusted and realized that now my pedal couldn't move far enough, so I removed the pedal stop from the floor insdie the truck, as I was replacing the frayed throttle cable.
Needless to say she runs after dissecting the motor's brain once again, but holy crap am I surprised how much better she runs.
I now hit 30psi by 2150rpm (maybe earlier, gauges moving so fast it's hard to tell) and max boost is up to 36psi. With the aneroid functioning properly now, I get a haze when under boost. Need to take some driving videos tomorrow so I can get a better idea how much there is. She is quite a bit more powerful too, judging by the seat of the pants dyno of course
I don't know why I waited so long to fix this problem, but damn, I'm glad its fixed now!!
In other news, Josh [MEMBER]cruiser guy[/MEMBER] sent me a set of 6 injectors from his motor swap/build project. He ended up having to replace his and sent me his old cores for free!!! I can't wait to get these rebuilt and installed. Thanks Josh!!!
Stay tuned, more updates to come tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #2,518
Thank you sir, and excellent question. I had done some reading recently that suggests changing the movement range of the fuel pin follower, either through rotating the stock fuel pin, installing a deeper aftermarket pin like what I've got, or through removing the fuel pin alltogether, can cause the fuel pin follower o-ring to leak. Unfortunately I installed my Denny T stage 2 fuel pin within 100 miles of installing the motor, so I don't know if this leak was introduced by the aftermarket pin or if the o-ring just went bad since it hasn't been replaced since (presumably) 1996, when the last Cummins reman was done.
Regardless, from here on out I'll recommend that when replacing the governor spring, that this o-ring be replaced as well. If I were taking the top cover off to replace the governor, it would have been an extra 45min of work, tops, to replace this o-ring.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Moonshine is looking good. I love Miller welders. Got one at home and use Miller's at the base for Mig and Tig. Great machines
Good advice. I'll be keeping an eye on mine as I'll be playing with all of that during tuning.
