Sure, Blame Canada eh ?????
Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter GLTHFJ60
- Start date
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I have used this hose before, but not with Diesel.
I am 100% sure it is diesel and biodiesel compatible
http://ph.parker.com/us/15551/en/push-lok-plus-multipurpose-hose-801
I am 100% sure it is diesel and biodiesel compatible
http://ph.parker.com/us/15551/en/push-lok-plus-multipurpose-hose-801
- Thread starter
- #2,023
- Thread starter
- #2,024
Got some more work done on Moonshine this week and intend to get more done this weekend.
Mounted up the passenger seat last night, which was a bit of a PITA, partially because I was inventing the bracket as I went, partially because I kept running out of material. I ended up using aluminum 3/4" square tubing (Lowes was out of the steel 3/4") and they turned out similar to the driver's seat, but different. The passenger seat folds forward then slides all the way forward since it was a passenger seat for a 2 door truck (4Runner). This means that the brackets are completely different.
Here's what I came up with. Final mounted position is nearly identical to where I have my driver's seat set at:
The black pieces are parts of leftover steel 3/4" that I ended up needing after changing the design of these brackets a 4th time:
Great night-time picture:
In other exciting news, I figured out how to put my AC system back together again and got this custom piece made at a place called Raleigh Durham Rubber and Gasket. They make all kinds of custom pressure lines, gaskets, have all kinds of clamps and tubes, etc. Fantastic shop.
I used a factory '98 Ram AC hose assembly (right half) and had the shop join that to my Toyota ends (left half) with R134 service ports. Came out really well and should work perfectly!!
Stay tuned...
Mounted up the passenger seat last night, which was a bit of a PITA, partially because I was inventing the bracket as I went, partially because I kept running out of material. I ended up using aluminum 3/4" square tubing (Lowes was out of the steel 3/4") and they turned out similar to the driver's seat, but different. The passenger seat folds forward then slides all the way forward since it was a passenger seat for a 2 door truck (4Runner). This means that the brackets are completely different.
Here's what I came up with. Final mounted position is nearly identical to where I have my driver's seat set at:
The black pieces are parts of leftover steel 3/4" that I ended up needing after changing the design of these brackets a 4th time:
Great night-time picture:
In other exciting news, I figured out how to put my AC system back together again and got this custom piece made at a place called Raleigh Durham Rubber and Gasket. They make all kinds of custom pressure lines, gaskets, have all kinds of clamps and tubes, etc. Fantastic shop.
I used a factory '98 Ram AC hose assembly (right half) and had the shop join that to my Toyota ends (left half) with R134 service ports. Came out really well and should work perfectly!!
Stay tuned...
- Thread starter
- #2,025
Exhaust was built yesterday!!! It came out GREAT! The truck seems super quiet now that she's got a real exhaust 
Everything is above the frame rail!
The exhaust is three main pieces, the downpipe, the muffler and the tip. I'm going to build a second tip I can swap on for off-roading.
Next, the pieces were finish welded and painted with VHT:
I'll snap an underneath shot later today and take some video as well. I love it!!
Everything is above the frame rail!
The exhaust is three main pieces, the downpipe, the muffler and the tip. I'm going to build a second tip I can swap on for off-roading.
Next, the pieces were finish welded and painted with VHT:
I'll snap an underneath shot later today and take some video as well. I love it!!
- Thread starter
- #2,026
I also adjusted the wastegate, but didn't have the success that we did with the exhaust. Turns out my wastegate was staked from the factory so that you couldn't adjust it (realizing this now). I put this sucker in a vice and moved the clevis out but the shaft broke. It's on there now and there are more threads showing, but I'm seeing overall less boost with higher EGTs. I'm only getting up to ~10 psi now.
In thinking about this boost situation more yesterday afternoon, I'm realizing that boost leaks could have been causing my limit. I've got regular worm gear clamps holding my crossover tube on
I'm going to j-hook this wastegate to eliminate that as a problem. I don't think I'll run into much of a drive pressure issue since this is a 12cm2 housing.
Original actuating rod. You can see the stake in the middle of the clevis.
In thinking about this boost situation more yesterday afternoon, I'm realizing that boost leaks could have been causing my limit. I've got regular worm gear clamps holding my crossover tube on
I'm going to j-hook this wastegate to eliminate that as a problem. I don't think I'll run into much of a drive pressure issue since this is a 12cm2 housing.
Original actuating rod. You can see the stake in the middle of the clevis.
For more boost I thought you wanted to have less threads showing to get more preload on the actuator. The other way to do that if you cannot move your clevis is to use some washers to space the actuator off of the mount more which would create more preload on the internal actuator spring.
Good job on the exhaust and I'm glad you're planning a different tip for offroad.
Good job on the exhaust and I'm glad you're planning a different tip for offroad.
- Thread starter
- #2,028
Last night I got my center console reinstalled in the flip-back configuration. Pretty slick design, thank you Kevin
Console sits a bit lower than the stock configuration, which is perfect for me. It allowed me to mount the console just a bit farther forward and not interfere with the shifter.
Console sits a bit lower than the stock configuration, which is perfect for me. It allowed me to mount the console just a bit farther forward and not interfere with the shifter.
- Thread starter
- #2,029
Yes, you are correct. I did some reading on this yesterday and shortening the rod adds preload, which causes the wastegate to open at higher PSI. For some reason I couldn't figure that out when I had the wastegate out of the truck, but no worries, since it would have broken anyway. Dave from 4BTSwaps has got a new wastegate for me, so I'll swap that on next week most likely. Good idea on the washer trick, I didn't think of that
The tip on there now is good since it gets the exhaust and noise out and away from the truck, which is perfect. It would catch every rock out there if left as-is offroad
i stock hx30 replacement wastegate or a different design altogether?
- Thread starter
- #2,031
David said it came off a HY35, so maybe it's the same? I'll have him send me a picture.
Question
Johnny did you get the windows from Kevin? I know you were looking at them. By the way, nice documentation of the install of the seat box. It is awesome to say the least. Now that you have silenced the beast you can actually hear the country side as you roll over it. As always looking good and oh so awesome.
Envious in South Carolina
Johnny did you get the windows from Kevin? I know you were looking at them. By the way, nice documentation of the install of the seat box. It is awesome to say the least. Now that you have silenced the beast you can actually hear the country side as you roll over it. As always looking good and oh so awesome.
Envious in South Carolina
- Thread starter
- #2,033
Johnny did you get the windows from Kevin? I know you were looking at them. By the way, nice documentation of the install of the seat box. It is awesome to say the least. Now that you have silenced the beast you can actually hear the country side as you roll over it. As always looking good and oh so awesome.
EDIT: No, I did not get the windows from Kevin. Thank you for the compliments Doc
Are you gonna make it up to NC for an event this year? Are there any good ones to make down in SC?
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- Thread starter
- #2,034
AC troubleshooting has indicated a bad compressor. Since I've already got a new drier, I'm going to install a new compressor and new expansion valve as well.
Wiring will be another project. The AC amplifier will prevent the compressor from kicking on if the engine RPMs are below a certain level. This poses a problem for me since my factory tachometer is not connected. Is there a way I can bypass this portion of the AC circuit?
Other than that, I've got it all figured out. I have a custom line that connects my Toyota AC system to my Dodge compressor with R134 high and low pressure service ports, so that's a piece of cake. I've got a connector and pigtail to connect to the stock Dodge clutch connector, I just need to figure out how to get my factory AC switch to engage my Dodge AC compressor without tach signal
Thanks for the advice gents! My search continues...
Wiring will be another project. The AC amplifier will prevent the compressor from kicking on if the engine RPMs are below a certain level. This poses a problem for me since my factory tachometer is not connected. Is there a way I can bypass this portion of the AC circuit?
Other than that, I've got it all figured out. I have a custom line that connects my Toyota AC system to my Dodge compressor with R134 high and low pressure service ports, so that's a piece of cake. I've got a connector and pigtail to connect to the stock Dodge clutch connector, I just need to figure out how to get my factory AC switch to engage my Dodge AC compressor without tach signal
Thanks for the advice gents! My search continues...
I'm sure it is not sufficiently biodiesel and diesel resistant to last for more than about 40,000 km. In that time the inner lining became brittle and cracked, fuel seeped through and dissolved the outer jacket.
I've replaced the Parker 801 with NAPA/Gates H350A Barricade™ fuel injection hose, it's biofuel and multi-fuel rated.
AC troubleshooting has indicated a bad compressor. Since I've already got a new drier, I'm going to install a new compressor and new expansion valve as well.
Wiring will be another project. The AC amplifier will prevent the compressor from kicking on if the engine RPMs are below a certain level. This poses a problem for me since my factory tachometer is not connected. Is there a way I can bypass this portion of the AC circuit?
Other than that, I've got it all figured out. I have a custom line that connects my Toyota AC system to my Dodge compressor with R134 high and low pressure service ports, so that's a piece of cake. I've got a connector and pigtail to connect to the stock Dodge clutch connector, I just need to figure out how to get my factory AC switch to engage my Dodge AC compressor without tach signal
Thanks for the advice gents! My search continues...
not sure if you have a operating tach in the truck or not or if this may help you. I have a 5.7 Vortec in my 60 with a standalone engine harness...anyway the engine harness has a tack signal that comes from the PCM...I have a wire from this tach signal feed that is mated to the neg wire from the stock FJ60 coil (the wire that fed the negative side of the stock FJ60 Coil)... I then run a simple relay off teh stock toyota 12 volt wire that energizes the coil... so the stock Toyota A/C wire is the trigger for the relay...and then the relay fires the GM compressor in my case. I say all that to say if you have an aftermarket tack signal you might could "t" off of that an use that in the same manner I have. I use the stock Toyota in-cab controls and everything works...I do have an issue with the a/c engaging at times (low rpms) but all in all what i described above works for me and a/c is fully functional... I don't know if this would work with teh diesel setup or not but you certainly need a tach signal if you don't have that then you may have to resort to an aftermarket control of some type...you might want to ask Rex @ coolstream (I think I have the name and business reference right)...for recommendation.
Sorry to hear it didn't work for You, thanks for letting others know by posting your results. When we were selling it a few years ago, it was doing fine for diesel guys. Of course, these were engine swapped guys or hot rodders who hadn't put many miles on their rigs either....
NAPA sells some great stuff sometimes and it is good to know we can go there locally and get a better product.
Btw- Who is John Galt? Haha
GLTH- the exhaust looks great!!
That thing is going to be a beast once You dial in the fuel and boost!
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- Thread starter
- #2,038
I found the answer to my tac question in this thread, post 18. Don't need a tach signal to work.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/225119-bob-needs-ac.html
My motor is mechanically controlled, so there is no RPM signal from the motor at all. I do have a working tachometer, but it is a TinyTach, which functions by way of transducer mounted on one of the injection lines. It reads the number of pulses per second and calculated RPM.
Good to know and thank you for the P/N!
Thank you and yes she will be! I'm going to get a different turbo, or at least different turbine housing, and fix some boost leaks. That should get me well past 20 psi.
will jumping the wires as described in that thread below allow or control the compressor cycling on and off? I've not bothered to research it, but it sounds as if you might be just hot-wiring the compressor and it would stay continually engaged if the wires are "jumped" in the way described when the in-cab controls are engaged. I may be wrong on that but worth understanding.
Yeah I realize you have a different breed of cat in regard to the tach...so you may just have to do what works.
Yeah I realize you have a different breed of cat in regard to the tach...so you may just have to do what works.
- Thread starter
- #2,040
Lots of updates needed. It's been a crazy month.
Didn't have time to fix the AC before my trip up to NY, but the trip was good anyway! Had 0 issues with Moonshine. She did great and got 22mpg doing it It was a bit hot without AC, but we made it.
After getting back from that 1500 mile road trip, I got a day to relax, then swapped out the front differential in Moonshine for a 3.70 unit from mwalls (Thanks Matt!). The day after that, I headed back down to Mike's farm to get Moonshine ready for CMCC 2013. That included:
- front driveshaft build
- transfer case rebuild
- cable shifter intsall
- brake relocation from PS to DS frame rail
- line lock install
So we go to work. Out with the old gears and rear output. In with the new 4:1 LowMax gears, 32 spline AA output housing and NWF Reverse Cable Shifter kit:
Finished product:
Didn't have time to fix the AC before my trip up to NY, but the trip was good anyway! Had 0 issues with Moonshine. She did great and got 22mpg doing it
It was a bit hot without AC, but we made it.After getting back from that 1500 mile road trip, I got a day to relax, then swapped out the front differential in Moonshine for a 3.70 unit from mwalls (Thanks Matt!). The day after that, I headed back down to Mike's farm to get Moonshine ready for CMCC 2013. That included:
- front driveshaft build
- transfer case rebuild
- cable shifter intsall
- brake relocation from PS to DS frame rail
- line lock install
So we go to work. Out with the old gears and rear output. In with the new 4:1 LowMax gears, 32 spline AA output housing and NWF Reverse Cable Shifter kit:
Finished product:
