Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (4 Viewers)

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Moonshine is back on the road!!

Replaced the bleeder screws in the rear calipers last night with speed bleeders. Why didn't I do this mod years ago? Makes bleeding your brakes super simple and mess free.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...nge?filterByKeyWord=bleeder&fromString=search

Torqued the lug nuts, hub bolts and took her out. Speedo is now ~1mph off at an indicated 40mph, so that's pretty damn close to spot on. Noticed one leak at the speed bleeder, but it turns out I simply didn't tighten it enough.

Brakes are much softer now which is due to the significantly larger calipers out back. I haven't had a chance to stomp on the brakes yet, but I need to, so I can see if I need the proportioning valve. I'm sure I will.

I can't wait to get a new mileage estimate. I don't know if it's because I haven't driven the truck in a long while or because of the new gear ratio, but she seems much faster now :bounce: :bounce2:

Also, I found this interesting. At highway speeds, I had a humming noise coming from the back half of the truck. It increased with speed and was louder in 5th than in 4th. I thought it was just my transfer case being old and grumpy since I haven't rebuilt it yet, but with this new axle and driveshaft, the noise seems to be completely gone. It's possible that the noise was due to the old driveshaft waiting to let go (which it did). It could have been noisy because of the weird angle that my driveshaft was operating at. In either case, the noise is GONE and highway driving should not only be quieter due to that, but also because of the lower engine RPMs that I'll be turning to go 70-75.

I'M PUMPED.
 
congrats, what gear ratio did you go from and what is it now?

4.10 in the LC differential to 3.73 (actually 3.73, 41 ring teeth, 11 pinion teeth) in the 14 bolt.
 
4.10 in the LC differential to 3.73 (actually 3.73, 41 ring teeth, 11 pinion teeth) in the 14 bolt.

I'm looking to do the same later this year. Post up you mileage gains and let me know if it drops your egt numbers at all.
 
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Great work man! Cant belive you swapped that 14bolt your self, those are HEAVY SOB's.

Watching for you impressions after a few days/weeks with the 3.73's. I'm looking at maybe dropping to 3.73's when I get my 4BD swap done on my 80 (way more work for 3.73's on it though). :cheers:
 
I'm looking to do the same later this year. Post up you mileage gains and let me know if it drops your egt numbers at all.

Will do! In the limited 55mph road driving I've done this afternoon, it seems to have dropped my cruising EGTs significantly. Need to take her out on the highway to see what the EGTs look like at higher speeds.

Great work man! Cant belive you swapped that 14bolt your self, those are HEAVY SOB's.

Watching for you impressions after a few days/weeks with the 3.73's. I'm looking at maybe dropping to 3.73's when I get my 4BD swap done on my 80 (way more work for 3.73's on it though). :cheers:

The 14 bolt is heavy as hell! All of the lifting was done with my floor jack.

I'll make sure to keep everyone posted on the 3.73s!
 
A couple hundred miles of driving yesterday showed me the following:
- Speedometer is ~5mph fast at an indicated 75 mph
- EGTs climb quickly when cruising at 1600-1900rpm on the highway if I lay into the throttle
- Mileage seems to have improved, but the final answer will come when I put fuel in it next
- Boost is still the limiting factor. When accelerating, I see boost climb quickly, with EGTs following. When I hit the wastegate, EGTs climb quickly. Gotta fix the boost problem.

Overall, I'm loving these 3.73s and I'm sure it'll be perfect once I get my boost situation figured out.


One of the next things I'm going to do is build an exhaust. However, I'm planning on keeping my exhaust on the passenger side and above the bottom of the frame rail, which puts it right next to the fuel and brake lines. That is obviously a problem.

As a fix, I'd like to move my fuel lines from the passenger frame rail over to the driver frame rail, which would not only get rid of the problem of exhaust heating up fuel and brake fluid, but it'd also get rid of some of the crossover lines on my firewall. Therefore, my next question is:

- Can I use (wvo rated) rubber fuel lines from tank to motor?
- If I shouldn't use rubber lines, what materials do people use to make fuel lines?

Some pics of Moonshine now that she's got different wheels front and rear:

IMG_20130613_073652.jpg


IMG_20130611_123844.jpg
 

Aluminum is great for its ease of bending and routing but there is one down side that I have personally experienced. Rocks can get flung up and stuck between the frame and the line, then they vibrate there from engine and driving. Slowly the rock will eat through the aluminum line and give a leak. I had this on a Supra i built years ago, ended up replacing with steel 3/8th break line.
 
Aluminum is great for its ease of bending and routing but there is one down side that I have personally experienced. Rocks can get flung up and stuck between the frame and the line, then they vibrate there from engine and driving. Slowly the rock will eat through the aluminum line and give a leak. I had this on a Supra i built years ago, ended up replacing with steel 3/8th break line.

Good point. :hhmm:
 
A couple hundred miles of driving yesterday showed me the following:
- Speedometer is ~5mph fast at an indicated 75 mph
- EGTs climb quickly when cruising at 1600-1900rpm on the highway if I lay into the throttle
- Mileage seems to have improved, but the final answer will come when I put fuel in it next
- Boost is still the limiting factor. When accelerating, I see boost climb quickly, with EGTs following. When I hit the wastegate, EGTs climb quickly. Gotta fix the boost problem.

Overall, I'm loving these 3.73s and I'm sure it'll be perfect once I get my boost situation figured out.


One of the next things I'm going to do is build an exhaust. However, I'm planning on keeping my exhaust on the passenger side and above the bottom of the frame rail, which puts it right next to the fuel and brake lines. That is obviously a problem.

As a fix, I'd like to move my fuel lines from the passenger frame rail over to the driver frame rail, which would not only get rid of the problem of exhaust heating up fuel and brake fluid, but it'd also get rid of some of the crossover lines on my firewall. Therefore, my next question is:

- Can I use (wvo rated) rubber fuel lines from tank to motor?
- If I shouldn't use rubber lines, what materials do people use to make fuel lines?

Some pics of Moonshine now that she's got different wheels front and rear:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AW9E/V9r5wUdHX9w/s640/IMG_20130613_073652.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...AW9M/GFcCigCMXcQ/s640/IMG_20130611_123844.jpg

Man she looks good. I love the tires, watching an SUV have blowout in front of me today convinced me to get some newer tires. I'll be going with military tires as well. Waiting to source some 16.5 6lug wheels first. How loud are they and how do you like them compared to the previous ones? I remember having to change one humvee tire in Iraq and I hated my life. Mostly cause it was hot to touch and heavier than I expected. But I've become a man since then so won't be an issue.
So EGTs and boost, what are your numbers looking like? My EGT is fine until I'm in fourth and fifth then they climb quick to about 1000 or more if I step on it. It's the main reason I'm going to regear to 3.73 later this year. Hoping to achieve 850-900 degrees while doing around 70 mph.
 
Man she looks good. I love the tires, watching an SUV have blowout in front of me today convinced me to get some newer tires. I'll be going with military tires as well. Waiting to source some 16.5 6lug wheels first. How loud are they and how do you like them compared to the previous ones? I remember having to change one humvee tire in Iraq and I hated my life. Mostly cause it was hot to touch and heavier than I expected. But I've become a man since then so won't be an issue.
So EGTs and boost, what are your numbers looking like? My EGT is fine until I'm in fourth and fifth then they climb quick to about 1000 or more if I step on it. It's the main reason I'm going to regear to 3.73 later this year. Hoping to achieve 850-900 degrees while doing around 70 mph.

Thank you sir!

I wouldn't take these EGT readings as a good reference, simply because my wastegate is still opening at 14 PSI. However, while cruising at 70-75 MPH, my EGTs are the same, around 900*. If I lay into the throttle, I'm quickly at 1000* and if I stay in it, as in if I'm going up a hill, she'll climb up to 1250*. Certainly not optimal, but I suspect adjusting my wastegate will help that.
 
I'd use WVO/Bio diesel rated rubber on the connections from body to frame and run metal for the long lengths. Can you relocate the current metal lines to the other side with a little cutting and massage?

I redid my exhaust and have a 3"downpipe turning into a 4" all the way back. I ran 4" because I got a section for free. I'm using an MBRP straight through muffler and it allows for a nice deeper tone without the rasp I was getting before. I like it, plus I mounted it way better than the last set up.

After I finally found a boost leak this spring at a coupler I've been running with for well over a year and a minor retune (pump turned up more that stock) since I swapped in the smaller compressor wheel I am now maxing at 29-30psi. EGTs run around 8-900 cruising 70mph and don't seem to get much higher than 1050F on freeway ramp speed-ups. I haven't pulled any long hills yet so I don't know how it will react to a sustained load. Johnny, you need another 10 psi from that turbo and I think you'll see a happy difference. More power and less EGT.
 
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I'd use WVO/Bio diesel rated rubber on the connections from body to frame and run metal for the long lengths. Can you relocate the current metal lines to the other side with a little cutting and massage?

I would like to pick up some WVO rated rubber, but I'm having a hard time finding specs for it, other than just "diesel" rated. This stuff looks good in that I can use compression fittings instead of hose clamps, but will it stand up to biodiesel? I know that Viton will work, but that stuff is expensive!!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230603

The current fuel lines won't work on the other frame rail. They have the bump-outs for the factory transmission cross member and already look pretty rough. It'd be better to use a new line and upgrade to compression fittings.

I redid my exhaust and have a 3"downpipe turning into a 4" all the way back. I ran 4" because I got a section for free. I'm using an MBRP straight through muffler and it allows for a nice deeper tone without the rasp I was getting before. I like it, plus I mounted it way better than the last set up.

After I finally found a boost leak this springs at a coupler I've been running with for well over a year and a minor retune (pump turned up more that stock) since I swapped in the smaller compressor wheel I am now maxing at 29-30psi. EGTs run around 8-900 cruising 70mph and don't seem to get much higher than 1050F on freeway ramp speed-ups. I haven't pulled any long hills yet so I don't know how it will react to a sustained load. Johnny, you need another 10 psi from that turbo and I think you'll see a happy difference. More power and less EGT.

When I get started on my exhaust I will adjust the wastegate. I've got to get this stuff done quickly since I'm taking Moonshine on a 1400 mile round-trip road trip for a wedding the first weekend of July!
 
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For my rubber hose lengths I found some SAE 30R7 rated stuff locally. I was looking for SAE 30R9 which I think is a little better. I've run B100 through the system but only a couple of tanks but have seen no degradation to my hoses. As long as it's compatible with B100 I think you'd be covered for any WVO as well. Isn't Bio more solvent than WVO?
 
For my rubber hose lengths I found some SAE 30R7 rated stuff locally. I was looking for SAE 30R9 which I think is a little better. I've run B100 through the system but only a couple of tanks but have seen no degradation to my hoses. As long as it's compatible with B100 I think you'd be covered for any WVO as well. Isn't Bio more solvent than WVO?

Good question, I do not know.
 

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