Mojave Suspension System Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bandicoot
- Start date
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
that's good upgrade for the SR kit .. coz the springs flexed and in my case all this strees end at the SR frame mounts .. ( developing some cracks )
- Thread starter
- #44
As far as all asking about time and tools, I have no doubt you could do it in a weekend and I'm not saying that anyone who does it that fast is compromising quality. I want to make sure the end product is better than Toyoda would have done it. (I'm not debating the theory of SR) Plus I am cleaning the S@#T out of the front and rear ends, frame and associated hardware.
Also remember I decided to do this thread this way so you guys/ gals can do it faster, plus see all the little things that no one tells you about. Sunday night's a tough way to find out! My goal is to give a unbiased opinion, lots of pics, do a high quality job, discover all those little things that somehow don't get into the directions or missed during the installation and finally problems that you may run into. For example there is some minor debate about if a high steer is needed, will even fit SUA and would it be beneficial. Also is there a potential issue with front DS length now, especially if you go for maximum articulation, which I am. When I get done you will know...I AM THE GUINEE PIG
...
But I will list major tools I am using: Pneumatic 4" grinding wheel, pneumatic hack saw, pneumatic die grinder, cordless drill motor with drills, wire wheels, Uni-bit, 2lb hammer, cold chisels, wd40 (great crud cleaner), 120V Millermatic wire feed welder, set of metric sockets & wrenches, screw drivers, puller for steering stabilizer ball joint end, floor jack, minimum of 6 jack stands (4 on frame 2 on axel),I guess you could get by with 4, OR if you want to do front and back and not re-lift wagon you would need 8 jack stands, extra 2 on a axel. If you are cleaning under there the usual S#@T load of rags, TP or your choice, some degreaser/ cleaner.
Also remember I decided to do this thread this way so you guys/ gals can do it faster, plus see all the little things that no one tells you about. Sunday night's a tough way to find out! My goal is to give a unbiased opinion, lots of pics, do a high quality job, discover all those little things that somehow don't get into the directions or missed during the installation and finally problems that you may run into. For example there is some minor debate about if a high steer is needed, will even fit SUA and would it be beneficial. Also is there a potential issue with front DS length now, especially if you go for maximum articulation, which I am. When I get done you will know...I AM THE GUINEE PIG
...But I will list major tools I am using: Pneumatic 4" grinding wheel, pneumatic hack saw, pneumatic die grinder, cordless drill motor with drills, wire wheels, Uni-bit, 2lb hammer, cold chisels, wd40 (great crud cleaner), 120V Millermatic wire feed welder, set of metric sockets & wrenches, screw drivers, puller for steering stabilizer ball joint end, floor jack, minimum of 6 jack stands (4 on frame 2 on axel),I guess you could get by with 4, OR if you want to do front and back and not re-lift wagon you would need 8 jack stands, extra 2 on a axel. If you are cleaning under there the usual S#@T load of rags, TP or your choice, some degreaser/ cleaner.
- Thread starter
- #45
Thanks Tapage great to know, Dave of 4+ mentioned that 60's tend to develop stress cracks at the cross member frame connection due to steering stresses (even with stock gussets). Also may be due to spring stresses over time even on the stock hanger assemblies. It would make sense that a SR would potentially place more stress at those same points due to leveraging on long hanger assemblies. Also, not all welding is good welding. Not saying yours is not, but proper welding materials and technique play a large role in success or failure also. Remember that welds cool extremely fast once the wire or rod is off the material this rapid cooling can cause stress cracks under the weld. I try to pre warm my base metal as if you would do in some structural steel welds. Plus there is various failures due to hydrogen content etc. etc. If you think about it there is a lot more to our seemingly simple mods we all do than we give thought to...
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I wish I can even weld with rod something simple ..
I had some cracks after doing the SR years back. That was all fixed with the boxing of the front of the rails and gusetting the front rails and the crossmember union area. A good bumper also lends rigidity to the front area, the stocker really doesn't.
Thanks bro! Helps us newbies.
As far as all asking about time and tools, I have no doubt you could do it in a weekend and I'm not saying that anyone who does it that fast is compromising quality. I want to make sure the end product is better than Toyoda would have done it. (I'm not debating the theory of SR) Plus I am cleaning the S@#T out of the front and rear ends, frame and associated hardware.
Also remember I decided to do this thread this way so you guys/ gals can do it faster, plus see all the little things that no one tells you about. Sunday night's a tough way to find out! My goal is to give a unbiased opinion, lots of pics, do a high quality job, discover all those little things that somehow don't get into the directions or missed during the installation and finally problems that you may run into. For example there is some minor debate about if a high steer is needed, will even fit SUA and would it be beneficial. Also is there a potential issue with front DS length now, especially if you go for maximum articulation, which I am. When I get done you will know...I AM THE GUINEE PIG
But I will list major tools I am using: Pneumatic 4" grinding wheel, pneumatic hack saw, pneumatic die grinder, cordless drill motor with drills, wire wheels, Uni-bit, 2lb hammer, cold chisels, wd40 (great crud cleaner), 120V Millermatic wire feed welder, set of metric sockets & wrenches, screw drivers, puller for steering stabilizer ball joint end, floor jack, minimum of 6 jack stands (4 on frame 2 on axel),I guess you could get by with 4, OR if you want to do front and back and not re-lift wagon you would need 8 jack stands, extra 2 on a axel. If you are cleaning under there the usual S#@T load of rags, TP or your choice, some degreaser/ cleaner.
Non SR option if I want a level ride...
Due to those stresses you mentioned and all the other variables you are running into...if someone (myself) wanted to consider not doing the SR kit to keep it more simple for future goals/plans, what would be a possible way with the Mojave non-SR kit to compensate for the kit leaving the front end almost 1" lower than the rear, other than taking a leaf or 2 out of the rear spring packs? I hate that front lower look.
Things such as longer shackles (Anti-inversion or "regular") with shims? If so, what length?
And/or AALs?
Just brainstorming others' options in case the SR is slightly too much for the needs of the rig.
This isn't meant to hijack, just to expand on the Mojave kit in general because I foresee this becoming a virtual Official Mojave thread.
Due to those stresses you mentioned and all the other variables you are running into...if someone (myself) wanted to consider not doing the SR kit to keep it more simple for future goals/plans, what would be a possible way with the Mojave non-SR kit to compensate for the kit leaving the front end almost 1" lower than the rear, other than taking a leaf or 2 out of the rear spring packs? I hate that front lower look.
Things such as longer shackles (Anti-inversion or "regular") with shims? If so, what length?
And/or AALs?
Just brainstorming others' options in case the SR is slightly too much for the needs of the rig.
This isn't meant to hijack, just to expand on the Mojave kit in general because I foresee this becoming a virtual Official Mojave thread.
a very large hammer and plenty of them. plus a good pickle fork to pull off teh old steering stablizer. a nice long pipe for bending brackets was our wondertool....other than that ....
HA! I thought this was in response to my #49 post...kinda depressed me a little bit like there isn't any way possible.
I was reading a SR post saying someone did use AAL up front (whole other list of problems) and it did lift it a little...
So maybe the non-SR kit, with AALs up front=level ride?
I was reading a SR post saying someone did use AAL up front (whole other list of problems) and it did lift it a little...
So maybe the non-SR kit, with AALs up front=level ride?
- Thread starter
- #52
Bosljeff. I hate to even speak on the matter because I would feel bad if I killed a sale due to a dumb or misleading statement. I will say that conversations with Steve of Man-a-fre on the subject indicated that the suspension system was really designed as a package with the SR for optimum performance and Man-a-fre was considering not offering the kit without it? I am under the impression others have tried the mix and match game (just buying springs) and not had the best outcome. Now that being said, the kit is designed to easily remove rear leafs from the pack to lower the rear. If you were attempting to keep it high like it is with the SR and level it out, or level it out period. I would respectfully defer to Steve @ Man-a-Fre or Dave LCWIZARD make comment so I don't misguide you...
Man, that was quite possibly the most informative, yet politically correct, answer I have ever heard. Seriously, thanks for the input. All valid points.
I guess I can have them sub longer front shackles to lessen the tilt (2" shackles up front, right? So, the 3" may help the tilt enough to shut me up), shim it up and call it good rather than AAL so it isn't crazy stiff.
Really, my needs and uses are far less than all of yours: DD with very occasional off road, no crazy wheel well mashing, articulating stuff.
Ultimately, I guess I should just actually pick up the phone, huh? Per their website: "If you are looking for lower lift, or lighter load rating , call our sales office for options."
Thanks again for the write up.
Boz
I guess I can have them sub longer front shackles to lessen the tilt (2" shackles up front, right? So, the 3" may help the tilt enough to shut me up), shim it up and call it good rather than AAL so it isn't crazy stiff.
Really, my needs and uses are far less than all of yours: DD with very occasional off road, no crazy wheel well mashing, articulating stuff.
Ultimately, I guess I should just actually pick up the phone, huh? Per their website: "If you are looking for lower lift, or lighter load rating , call our sales office for options."
Thanks again for the write up.
Boz
Last edited:
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Great thread, good to see that you just dont slap it on, but is putting some time and thought into it.
- Thread starter
- #57
Todays Events
Spent a few hours detailing SR hangers, decided to add bolts to bottom frame rail. Generally not used on 60 but found they really stiffened up the attachment of SR hangers. Hopefully will add rigidity to assist welds and stop the all to common weld cracking on the SR hangers. Adjusting alignment to front cross member and frame rails. Not tough, just time consuming if you want to get it dead on. Was hoping to start welding, but work work got in the way. Weld on Saturday Enjoy Pics
Spent a few hours detailing SR hangers, decided to add bolts to bottom frame rail. Generally not used on 60 but found they really stiffened up the attachment of SR hangers. Hopefully will add rigidity to assist welds and stop the all to common weld cracking on the SR hangers. Adjusting alignment to front cross member and frame rails. Not tough, just time consuming if you want to get it dead on. Was hoping to start welding, but work work got in the way. Weld on Saturday
Enjoy Pics
- Thread starter
- #59
More pics of Fridays Events
Just for clarification. The bolts will be removed after welding, at least the 4 at the flange then I will reattach the bumper bracket and do final hardware install. I think I will go ahead a get hardened washers, locks and nuts and get rid of the crush nuts. I prefer washers on both side of bolting members anyway. Also all the bolts are grade 8. I will be surprised if I get any weld stress cracking on the SR hangers this way
Just for clarification. The bolts will be removed after welding, at least the 4 at the flange then I will reattach the bumper bracket and do final hardware install. I think I will go ahead a get hardened washers, locks and nuts and get rid of the crush nuts. I prefer washers on both side of bolting members anyway. Also all the bolts are grade 8. I will be surprised if I get any weld stress cracking on the SR hangers this way
Attached SR the frame rails and attached various gussets to front cross member.
