I would definitely move the rear axle back an inch or so.
Mojave Suspension System Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bandicoot
- Start date
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TLC Norway
woodwelder
great sua project, nice progress... i'm exited to see the upcoming hysteer... plans?
Respectfully executed, in work and in words....
never have I seen or Heard a more neutral display of fabrication and use of a product built by an off road company.
I also must agree with moving the rear back. seems it will fix the few issues that you are being confronted with.
all in all.......this is a great build and thread as well. Nice clean work man!!
look forward to hearing/seeing the outcome and performance of your build.
Cheers,
never have I seen or Heard a more neutral display of fabrication and use of a product built by an off road company.
I also must agree with moving the rear back. seems it will fix the few issues that you are being confronted with.
all in all.......this is a great build and thread as well. Nice clean work man!!
look forward to hearing/seeing the outcome and performance of your build.
Cheers,
- Thread starter
- #124
Thanks to All
Thanks for all the good words and ideas
I wish the project was moving a little faster. Between work schedule and taking my time to figure out the little things just takes time.
I did mount the Ford shock towers yesterday and had to mod a tool to hold the flange nuts and be able to slide them up in between the frame rails through existing frame openings until I could torque them down
Now I can get my shocks and check flex before I weld the towers. 
Thanks for all the good words and ideas
I wish the project was moving a little faster. Between work schedule and taking my time to figure out the little things just takes time. I did mount the Ford shock towers yesterday and had to mod a tool to hold the flange nuts and be able to slide them up in between the frame rails through existing frame openings until I could torque them down Now I can get my shocks and check flex before I weld the towers.
I like the location of your ford towers. I think mine will look just about the same when they're in.
- Thread starter
- #126
Thoughts for Today
Got some pics for general overview and to show conditions for ideas.Not that I'm opposed to notching the cross member but has anyone thought of making blocks to space the cross member down an 1" or 2" may make notching a lot less or not at all
I notice at this point that sitting static the front axel will bolt up but is bottomed out on the cross member so I could not gain any more axel drop so that will need to be completed for sure
I don't mind notching just would like some pics of ideas, looking for something that looks professional not an afterthought I know you SOA guys do it as a normal mod for an SOA
One thing that is evident about the rear it can hold quite a bit of weight It has settled more but not enough to give a safety margin for the rear DS slip
I've piled 5 tire/ wheel combos in the back and the rear still a little higher that the front May have to get those heavy rear bumpers with swing outs to offset the springs! My concern is if I wheel light the rear DS could be shoved thru the transfer case when the rear axel droops Yes, still considering moving spring pack back an inch by re-drilling the rear perch centering pins, just wish I did not torque the rear u-bolts down The other item I'm noticing is the e-brake line is stretched preety tight now, if I move axel back an inch and get into a severe axel droop could pop the e-brake line I know I'm being a little anal about some of this stuff but when I wheel it I don't want to worry about the limits of some of the components and ripping them loose loosing brake lines or folding up a DS on the trail is not something I want to try right now
Now, if it happens after I have done my homework then oh well, deal with it
THX to all for keeping tabs on me and hope you all enjoy the trials and tribulations of this build
Got some pics for general overview and to show conditions for ideas.
Not that I'm opposed to notching the cross member but has anyone thought of making blocks to space the cross member down an 1" or 2" may make notching a lot less or not at all I notice at this point that sitting static the front axel will bolt up but is bottomed out on the cross member so I could not gain any more axel drop so that will need to be completed for sure I don't mind notching just would like some pics of ideas, looking for something that looks professional not an afterthought I know you SOA guys do it as a normal mod for an SOAOne thing that is evident about the rear it can hold quite a bit of weight
It has settled more but not enough to give a safety margin for the rear DS slip I've piled 5 tire/ wheel combos in the back and the rear still a little higher that the front May have to get those heavy rear bumpers with swing outs to offset the springs! My concern is if I wheel light the rear DS could be shoved thru the transfer case when the rear axel droops Yes, still considering moving spring pack back an inch by re-drilling the rear perch centering pins, just wish I did not torque the rear u-bolts down The other item I'm noticing is the e-brake line is stretched preety tight now, if I move axel back an inch and get into a severe axel droop could pop the e-brake line I know I'm being a little anal about some of this stuff but when I wheel it I don't want to worry about the limits of some of the components and ripping them loose loosing brake lines or folding up a DS on the trail is not something I want to try right now Now, if it happens after I have done my homework then oh well, deal with it THX to all for keeping tabs on me and hope you all enjoy the trials and tribulations of this build
- Thread starter
- #129
UPDATES: Flexing It Out!
Started Flexing the suspension. All sorts of interesting items: and pics
First have not bottomed out against front stock bump stops yet! about 3" off Front shocks driver side stuffed pin to pin included estimate for 3" yet to bump is 23.5" extended pin to pin 33.5" this is not full front axel droop just flex one up one on ground. The rear axel under this condition is 18" stuff & 21.5" droop flex. The big thing I found is under this condition the rear passenger side tire is against inside fender well and that's with 31x10.50's Rear DS has not appeared to have moved forward in this condition. ( I know it will at full droop both tires off ground). Not a realistic condition but possible Front DS requires major mods to work under these conditions. Front Drivers side wheel under stuff condition is 2" off centerline of shock Will need to make sure body of shock is on the bottom and not the top. May have to use 5125's and not 7100's It's obvious that I will have to limit travel both stuff and droop or risk tearing S@#T UP About 2.25" off outer fender lip under stuff 33" are going to be close. Prolly going to run 33x9.50's give more room especially at back Anyway, take a look at pics and comment as usual Oh Yea, Flex at your own risk!
Started Flexing the suspension. All sorts of interesting items: and pics
First have not bottomed out against front stock bump stops yet! about 3" off
Front shocks driver side stuffed pin to pin included estimate for 3" yet to bump is 23.5" extended pin to pin 33.5" this is not full front axel droop just flex one up one on ground. The rear axel under this condition is 18" stuff & 21.5" droop flex. The big thing I found is under this condition the rear passenger side tire is against inside fender well and that's with 31x10.50's Rear DS has not appeared to have moved forward in this condition. ( I know it will at full droop both tires off ground). Not a realistic condition but possible Front DS requires major mods to work under these conditions. Front Drivers side wheel under stuff condition is 2" off centerline of shock Will need to make sure body of shock is on the bottom and not the top. May have to use 5125's and not 7100's It's obvious that I will have to limit travel both stuff and droop or risk tearing S@#T UP About 2.25" off outer fender lip under stuff 33" are going to be close. Prolly going to run 33x9.50's give more room especially at back Anyway, take a look at pics and comment as usual Oh Yea, Flex at your own risk!
- Thread starter
- #133
Last Group of Pics for Now
Front DS shot, Front shackle view not maxed out yet Rear tire clearence on lip Tires right now are 265-75R 16's. So all in all suspension will go farther than I may have clearance
Tires may be the biggest limiting factor which I did not think at this size
Front DS shot, Front shackle view not maxed out yet
Rear tire clearence on lip Tires right now are 265-75R 16's. So all in all suspension will go farther than I may have clearance Tires may be the biggest limiting factor which I did not think at this size
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
rearly perfect shackle angles .. congrats .. !
- Thread starter
- #135
Last Update 4 Today
Pushed the flex enough to raise opposite front wheel off ground about 1/4" Things I know for sure: Need to relo steering stabilizer Think about tires and wheel back spacing. The wheels have a 4" BS and clear everything but also moves tire inwards a little I know I'm not going pass 33x9.50's. The 14" travel 5125's up front work perfect, rear I have to look up yet. Don't need high steer but close Ford shock towers in good position so I can go ahead and finish weld in place.
Got front bumper 41" off ground, 26" to bottom of u-bolt plate. Now the usual Pics
Pushed the flex enough to raise opposite front wheel off ground about 1/4"
Things I know for sure: Need to relo steering stabilizer Think about tires and wheel back spacing. The wheels have a 4" BS and clear everything but also moves tire inwards a little I know I'm not going pass 33x9.50's. The 14" travel 5125's up front work perfect, rear I have to look up yet. Don't need high steer but close Ford shock towers in good position so I can go ahead and finish weld in place. Got front bumper 41" off ground, 26" to bottom of u-bolt plate. Now the usual Pics
Looks great, Bandi --
Like to see how that S/R works out for ya.
Like to see how that S/R works out for ya.
pretty amazing what these springs will do. I still love mine, every time I ride down a dirt road.
I went out with a 60 and a 40 on the Crown King run in AZ . The 60 had Dakars , the 40 had HFS. After the 20 mile graded dirt road to the trail head I had to stop for 20 minutes for them to catch up.
I couldn't tell the road was rough from my drivers seat . Can't wait until you drive them
I went out with a 60 and a 40 on the Crown King run in AZ . The 60 had Dakars , the 40 had HFS. After the 20 mile graded dirt road to the trail head I had to stop for 20 minutes for them to catch up.
I couldn't tell the road was rough from my drivers seat . Can't wait until you drive them
