Mojave Suspension System Build Thread

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This whole scenario is awesome for two reasons: 1. Great write-up with all the work and fixes to the complications done right. 2. It lets me know I don't near have the tools or know how to do this job, this well, which is how I would want to do it; right the first time and virtually indestructible.

Excellent job.
3" from Kurt, here I come.
 
lcwizard said:
The stiffer the spring the longer it lasts. A spring has only so many cycles in it's lifetime. If it is stiff enough to never cycle it will last virtually forever
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It depends on the RBM or Resisting Bending Moment of the spring's material. If you exceed it, you're shortening its life. If you do not exceed it, it should last untill something else acts on it such as rust or excessive heat. What exactly the RBM would be of this spring is not something you are likely to find out untill you exceed it and it will be different with every spring, i.e. stock, vs. OME vs. these springs, etc. I am glad that thee is a viable alternative to the OME stuff. Competition makes for better products and better prices.
 
Which is why most springs are built on the stiff side. If they limit flex the longevity
increases.



lehiguy said:
It depends on the RBM or Resisting Bending Moment of the spring's material. If you exceed it, you're shortening its life. If you do not exceed it, it should last untill something else acts on it such as rust or excessive heat. What exactly the RBM would be of this spring is not something you are likely to find out untill you exceed it and it will be different with every spring, i.e. stock, vs. OME vs. these springs, etc. I am glad that thee is a viable alternative to the OME stuff. Competition makes for better products and better prices.
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Christmas in April

Goodies came while on the road, came back to these:clap: I showed my wife and said how beautiful they are...she looked at me and said, MUST BE A GUY THING:flipoff2: It's ok, I still think 5125's are beautiful! Keep posted back on the wagon today...:cheers:
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Do they have boots? If so, run them. If not I highly suggest coming up with some method to keep rocks from hitting the shock shaft. I'm having to alter my plans for the trip planned for this weekend due to a leaking 7100 that has a rock ding in it's shaft.

With the body mounted up most of the objections to shock boots fall away. I like to cut the Bils boots so that they do not fit tight on the end of the shock shaft, let them float there. Then nothing can build up inside of the boot and you have the shafts covered.
 
5125's Front end Test Fitting

Installed front end shock. I put one body up and one body down to see clearance issues if any:hhmm: Position does not matter on these, but as many have suggested debris and rock hits may be the deciding factor. So I took pics as usual for all to see and weigh in:):cheers:
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Those shafts are very, very hard. You are far more likely to ding the housing than the shaft and the housing is much more expensive to replace than the shaft. (These are rebuilable and the parts are sold individually.) I suggest that you mount them the way Bilstein says you should; with the tube up and the shaft down. If something is traveling at your shaft with enough force to actually ding it, no flimsy boot is going to help.
 
lcwizard said:
Which is why most springs are built on the stiff side. If they limit flex the longevity
increases.
Click to expand...

Thats how crappy springs are made. Good springs like OMEs are made from a higher number of thinner leafs. As a general rule, the thinner the leaf, the higher the RBM assuming the material is the same. The thinner leaf dramatically decreases the stress on the top of the arch.
 
Is your truck sitting under it's own weight or is the suspension unloaded? Seems like your bumpstops are a lot closer than your shock is compressed? How much droop do you have, looks like the shock would limit travel, might be the angle.

Pretty.
 
To answer your question Cruisified, it's the view. Truck is under load and there is 10" left in shock and 6" to upper stock bump. I'm going to have to lower the stock bumps. If I let the suspension go thru it's full articulation I'll take out the shocks even with 31x10.50's!! Shock travel I did on purpose, I'm not limiting travel with shocks under droop or stuff. I am using straps and bumps. You should never let a shock limit compression anyway, droop is ok and normal, but I'm not normal :) There is a lot more droop available than stuff that's why the shock travel is so long. I'm within 1" from full extension of shock on droop.
 
Bandicoot said:
To answer your question Cruisified, it's the view. Truck is under load and there is 10" left in shock and 6" to upper stock bump. I'm going to have to lower the stock bumps. If I let the suspension go thru it's full articulation I'll take out the shocks even with 31x10.50's!! Shock travel I did on purpose, I'm not limiting travel with shocks under droop or stuff. I am using straps and bumps. You should never let a shock limit compression anyway, droop is ok and normal, but I'm not normal :) There is a lot more droop available than stuff that's why the shock travel is so long. I'm within 1" from full extension of shock on droop.
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Are you saying that in the pic you posted, there is 10" of shock shaft still in the shock itself? Meaning 4.3(ish) in of shaft is showing?? The leaf pack is ~ 2.5" thick, the axle housing is ~ 3" thick, plus you have the U bolt reversal on top of that.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about protecting the front shock shafts, but I have a 10" shaft & Rod Guide for my Mini's rear 7100 inbound from Bils. Too bad that it won't be here in time for this weekend's trip. A Nevada rock dinged the hard chrome deep enough for it to make a tiny crater and score the Rod Guide which started it leaking. Not the light weeping that Bils do, LEAKING.
This is probably some conspiracy of Mace's to keep us furreners out of NV....
 
I would think you would want to adjust the shocks a little so you'll get more drop.
 
Seems like if you mounted the shock to the top of the axle tube and lowered your bumps it'd be better..

but you measured, so it's good as it sits right?
 
Shock Testing

Well I'm not sure what all of you are debating about the shocks but I yet to see a problem:flipoff2:
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More Pics

:popcorn: Body roll is minimal under articulation all seems good to me. Now the only issue that continues is the fact that 31x10.50's bottom out against the rear inner fender wells under severe articulation:D At this point may consider cutting out stock rear fender wells and tubbing to allow more wheel travel need about 1-1/2" to clear. And no I'm not doing wheel spacers or a body lift:flipoff2:
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