Man that is a lot of work. Nice. I like the gear box temp idea.
Builds Mike's 1978 FJ40 Turbo Diesel Refit Project and Cross Country Road Trip!
- Thread starter Godfather90
- Start date
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back to the electric fan , find a crown vic fan relay box, you will have to add a pin but it comes with a 40amp and 70amp relay... also try a larger wire size for the high side... you may be getting a voltage drop....easy to check.. great build by the way...
This build is insane. Makes me hesitant to even change a light bulb. Hey i’m in OC and would love to buy you a beer and ogle your rig for a bit. Would love to see this beast in person.
- Thread starter
- #284
When are you free? I can't say no to a free beer!
- Thread starter
- #285
Dang, you do some amazing workLove seeing what you are up to.
Thanks for the love guys!
- Thread starter
- #286
I pretty happy with how the gauges turned out!
Daylight setting:
Headlight on setting:
So far I haven't been able to get the transmission temp over 145*F. We will see this weekend when I take this thing out for a few hours up through the mountains! As I would have expected the Orion temperature rises to just shy of where the transmission runs. A consequence of running the rear drive through a gear set unlike most transfer cases that run straight through. I can't help but wonder about the impact of the Orion's change to a cast iron case on its heat dissipation. I also cant help but think about the tapered roller bearings and how much energy this transfer case robs from the system. (Must be the racing engineer coming out) As for the intermediate box, the temperature barely rises past 115-120 which is nice to see as there should be little gear tooth and bearing loading when run in 1:1.
I wanted to be able to monitor these temps for when I build a new skid plate; I have a feeling that it will reduce the airflow quite a bit but I'm excited to see by how much. I have some ideas already to promote more cooling with the new skid
Thanks,
Mike
Daylight setting:
Headlight on setting:
So far I haven't been able to get the transmission temp over 145*F. We will see this weekend when I take this thing out for a few hours up through the mountains! As I would have expected the Orion temperature rises to just shy of where the transmission runs. A consequence of running the rear drive through a gear set unlike most transfer cases that run straight through. I can't help but wonder about the impact of the Orion's change to a cast iron case on its heat dissipation. I also cant help but think about the tapered roller bearings and how much energy this transfer case robs from the system. (Must be the racing engineer coming out) As for the intermediate box, the temperature barely rises past 115-120 which is nice to see as there should be little gear tooth and bearing loading when run in 1:1.
I wanted to be able to monitor these temps for when I build a new skid plate; I have a feeling that it will reduce the airflow quite a bit but I'm excited to see by how much. I have some ideas already to promote more cooling with the new skid
Thanks,
Mike
- Thread starter
- #287
Here's a good example on what not to do when 4 wheeling by yourself:
There is another big update coming up, I've just been very busy lately!
-Mike
There is another big update coming up, I've just been very busy lately!
-Mike
- Thread starter
- #289
I've been trying to find some solutions to a few problems before a big update to this thread, so here's a quick one for now:
In preparation for a Glamis trip next weekend, and a big Baja trip next month I was told I will need a UHF/VHF radio system.
Additionally on long freeway trips without the top/doors I find myself wearing ear muffs to cut down on the fatigue from wind noise. I listen to a lot of music, so when I'm blasting down the freeway with my music extra loud and my earmuffs on the dog just always gives me this look:
So its only fair to him that I don't blast music into his ears anymore.
My solution:
I called up both PCI and Rugged Radios. They are both really awesome to deal with, but PCI won me over. They offer a USA made system that has stereo sound in the headsets (everyone else is mono), they are 20 mins away, and have a ton of stock in their warehouse. The put the stuff together in house, and were able to do a bunch of custom mods for me. Another great benefit was I was able to come over after the install and have them program/tune/ and do the final coax crimping for me and do some tests to make sure all is well. Very happy with the decision!
Here's where I ended up:
You can see the headset bulkhead mounts, one on each side. The controls and switches are located blow a plate that should block rain and prying eyes.
You can see the extra AUX cable that has a microphone pickup on it for when you don't want to use bluetooth.
Its all rain-resistant and theft resistant with tamper proof hardware, and all locks up in the center console.
I moved the CB into the console and put the PCI Kenwood in the old radio slot. I wired a toggle switch to disable one when the other is on to avoid any sort of back feeding through the antenna's as I ran them all pretty close together.
So far I have has it tested and all is well. The intercom is bad-ass, I called my mom yesterday while blasting down the freeway at 75-80mph and she said its the most clear conversation we have has in a long time. The music sounds great as well, I just need
In preparation for a Glamis trip next weekend, and a big Baja trip next month I was told I will need a UHF/VHF radio system.
Additionally on long freeway trips without the top/doors I find myself wearing ear muffs to cut down on the fatigue from wind noise. I listen to a lot of music, so when I'm blasting down the freeway with my music extra loud and my earmuffs on the dog just always gives me this look:
So its only fair to him that I don't blast music into his ears anymore.
My solution:
I called up both PCI and Rugged Radios. They are both really awesome to deal with, but PCI won me over. They offer a USA made system that has stereo sound in the headsets (everyone else is mono), they are 20 mins away, and have a ton of stock in their warehouse. The put the stuff together in house, and were able to do a bunch of custom mods for me. Another great benefit was I was able to come over after the install and have them program/tune/ and do the final coax crimping for me and do some tests to make sure all is well. Very happy with the decision!
Here's where I ended up:
You can see the headset bulkhead mounts, one on each side. The controls and switches are located blow a plate that should block rain and prying eyes.
You can see the extra AUX cable that has a microphone pickup on it for when you don't want to use bluetooth.
Its all rain-resistant and theft resistant with tamper proof hardware, and all locks up in the center console.
I moved the CB into the console and put the PCI Kenwood in the old radio slot. I wired a toggle switch to disable one when the other is on to avoid any sort of back feeding through the antenna's as I ran them all pretty close together.
So far I have has it tested and all is well. The intercom is bad-ass, I called my mom yesterday while blasting down the freeway at 75-80mph and she said its the most clear conversation we have has in a long time. The music sounds great as well, I just need
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- Thread starter
- #290
Here's the antenna location:
The two push to talk buttons:
The controls:
And an amplified speaker on the firewall of the passenger foot well:
That's about it.
-Mike
The two push to talk buttons:
The controls:
And an amplified speaker on the firewall of the passenger foot well:
That's about it.
-Mike
- Thread starter
- #291
Can anyone tell me what this thing was:
I removed it to install that speaker in its place.
I'm really stumped by what it could have been for?
-Mike
I removed it to install that speaker in its place.
I'm really stumped by what it could have been for?
-Mike
- Thread starter
- #293
This was to avoid moisture? Very interesting!
There's actually two ports on the OEM cap. Not sure what the second is for.
- Thread starter
- #295
Could it be the vacuum advance? I would have expected that to be on the base though...
Interesting stuff from a generation of engines I haven't spent much time on
Mike
GA Architect
SILVER Star
The second nipple on the dizzy cap hooked into the air cleaner housing via a VCV to create the air flow through it.
Just be aware that driving on the road with head sets on is illegal and you will probably get pulled over, been there done that got the ticket lol
thenewswheel.com
Is It Illegal to Drive with Headphones? A State-By-State Guide - The News Wheel
Driving with headphones is not a good idea. Of course, you don’t have to have hearing to be able to drive, but limiting your senses — especially when you’re not used to being without your hearing — can be dangerous behind the wheel. You may not hear sirens coming up behind you or honking to...
thenewswheel.com
- Thread starter
- #298
Just be aware that driving on the road with head sets on is illegal and you will probably get pulled over, been there done that got the ticket lol
Is It Illegal to Drive with Headphones? A State-By-State Guide - The News Wheel
Driving with headphones is not a good idea. Of course, you don’t have to have hearing to be able to drive, but limiting your senses — especially when you’re not used to being without your hearing — can be dangerous behind the wheel. You may not hear sirens coming up behind you or honking to...
Yea I’m aware it’s againts the law. So is driving barefoot! I’m gonna be doing it only on longer freeway trips anyways though. Just will need to be extra aware of my surroundings!
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Just catching up on this. Great tech with the gearbox bearing and oiling upgrades.
- Thread starter
- #300
Here's another quickie, and one of my favorite modifications so far. I have been going through ant trying to reduce some NVH, and the source of the most obnoxious vibrations have always for me been the steering wheel.
Here is my solution:
Opened up the dash-steering column bracket.
Some rubber isolators.
One of the hats. These are larger than the ID of the hole, meaning in the event of complete isolator deterioration the column would still be supported.
Modified the lower bracket as well.
I wanted to lower the wheel a little bit so I made the top isolator hats thicker:
Now for the second half...
Here is my solution:
Opened up the dash-steering column bracket.
Some rubber isolators.
One of the hats. These are larger than the ID of the hole, meaning in the event of complete isolator deterioration the column would still be supported.
Modified the lower bracket as well.
I wanted to lower the wheel a little bit so I made the top isolator hats thicker:
Now for the second half...
