Migaloo the white Turbo 80

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Once the sump was back together l started fitting up the J pipe and turbo.
I also removed the old insulation from the AC hose and wrapped. The AC works great but is showing signs of small weeps so when l get it regassed l will get a new hose made and route it away from the exhaust.

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With the turbo mounted l finished off the dump pipe final welding and the o2 wideband fitted. Getting some different opinions on the correct placement for the sensor but it has a light to indicate whether its too hot or too cold so we will see.
Used some 80mm alloy tube to connect the intake to the original airflow meter, which also has a 4" to 3.25" reducer and a 3.25" 180 degree bend trimmed to suit.
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Fitted my new clamps to the intercooler hoses and took it for a test drive, all l can say is if you want more power don't hesitate to go turbo.
Quite impressed with the power difference.
While watching the fuel pressure and wideband on full boost, before l knew it l was doing 130km/h.
After a few runs over a couple of days l noticed the wideband was going lean.
I suspected the original pump was going so swapped in the Walbro 460 which was already modified to suit.
Adjusted the FPR and we were good to go.
Went on a test run up the local range where l usually mantain about 80-85 flat biscuits, today l was pulling 110km/h and still going.
I had to back off the throttle and this was only at 5 psi boost, so very happy with the result.
All wideband fuel settings look good, maybe a little rich at idle.
 
I decided to run the vacuum feed to the Fuel Pressure Regulator straight from the manifold and bypass the VSV.
With some heat soak getting onto the clutch and brake master l decided to make up my heat shield.
Started with a cardboard template design.
Then copied that onto the heat shield material. I folded an edge on the shield so there were no sharp edges, a pet hate of mine being a mechanic for 25 plus years.
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After stripping down some cooling system parts to plumb the turbo l noticed rust like sludge in the system.
After cleaning as much as l can l put some dishwashing tablets in the cooling system as advised by my mate mark. He runs a radiator shop and does this quite a bit to clean oil from cooling systems.
I have always used Toyota red coolant but previously is anyones guess.
Here’s what it was like.
Last picture is after a few days running the cleaner through the system and this is what l drained out.
Going to hit it again and then flush it a few more times.
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Got some new radiator hoses and heater hoses to go on. Will give the cooling system another flush then fill with Toyota red coolant.
Looking at getting all new hoses clamps and considering using breeze constant torque clamps. Anyone used or recommend these for normal coolant hoses or are they overkill?
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frankenyota said:
Got some new radiator hoses and heater hoses to go on. Will give the cooling system another flush then fill with Toyota red coolant.
Looking at getting all new hoses clamps and considering using breeze constant torque clamps. Anyone used or recommend these for normal coolant hoses or are they overkill?View attachment 2919738
Click to expand...
Many people use those on this forum, myself included. I bought them solely because of the feedback from this forum but in my opinion, they aren’t as good as people claim them to be. I think there are plenty of other clamps that offer the clamping force required for our cooling systems without the hype of these constant tension breeze clamps. These take up a lot of room and can get in the way in some tight spots. They’re expensive as well and difficult to source lately as well.

I got on McMaster-Carr and ordered regular old constant tension clamps or used new Toyota ones. Zero issues.
 
Thanks for the feed back, l might look at the Breeze standard hi-torque clamps in a worm drive. They have an inner liner to protect the hose from the normal band serrations of a normal clamp. Will price them up and see, have a few vehicles and would like to buy a few and as you say the CT Breeze clamps can get expensive.
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The old lady was 80 and had the car for years and talking to her l found out she had the car serviced at the dealership where l used to work. Then l looked at the service history and found l serviced the car in 99 and 2000, small world😁
So for the bargain price of $700 l bought it. This model is the later version of the 306 with the 1.8 twin cam and manual, these motors gear boxes are solid and have less electronics than the newer models which l like.
Loaded it up and set off. Towing the empty trailer was not a problem and could easily pass trucks on hills heading out to pick the car up, the power was great. With the car on it was noticeable but just plant the foot and it kept pulling and l was very impressed the way you just sink the foot and send it.
The intake air temps sat around 40 degrees C, coolant temps around 80 and maxed at 86 Degrees C under long hill climbs and full boost, 86 degrees coolant temps used to be what l normally saw before the turbo so very happy. Getting 2 psi of boost starting at 1,900 rpm with full load.
There's a bit of an issue with heat soak on the IAT sensor when you stop and the intake temps go up, looking to do some wrapping or fit a beanie to the turbo to prevent this but its not an issue while driving.
Fuel usage was about 450Km to the main tank towing which was through some hilly back roads. Use to get 500Km from the main pre turbo so happy with those figures, now to add some more boost.
 
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After finding my other child another corolla to swap all his drive line into as he smashed his, the cruiser decided to stop charging after l got home with car on trailer thankfully. All the dash lights came on and not charging, pulled the alternator and checked brushes for a quick fix, Not to be.
Looks like the rectifier had failed, this is the second alternator that has gone on me, both second hand ones l had laying around and both aftermarket. Spoke with my mate who works for Repco and got a price on a OEX but he said they are hit and miss.
Decided to order some parts, rectifier, brush box and regulator to rebuild a 120 Amp Denso l had as a spare that came off a 1HZ 100 series cruiser.
Not too many choices for quality around here, hoping to get a Denso one but no luck yet. Some online for $700 which is a bit rich for my liking.
 
frankenyota said:
Got some new radiator hoses and heater hoses to go on. Will give the cooling system another flush then fill with Toyota red coolant.
Looking at getting all new hoses clamps and considering using breeze constant torque clamps. Anyone used or recommend these for normal coolant hoses or are they overkill?View attachment 2919738
Click to expand...
A little late, but I like and use these clamps ;)
 
FMC80 said:
Many people use those on this forum, myself included. I bought them solely because of the feedback from this forum but in my opinion, they aren’t as good as people claim them to be. I think there are plenty of other clamps that offer the clamping force required for our cooling systems without the hype of these constant tension breeze clamps. These take up a lot of room and can get in the way in some tight spots. They’re expensive as well and difficult to source lately as well.

I got on McMaster-Carr and ordered regular old constant tension clamps or used new Toyota ones. Zero issues.
Click to expand...
What was it that was not as good with these clamps. Just curious.
There readily available at McMaster Carr and where I get then. but your right they are expensive !
 
Broski said:
What was it that was not as good with these clamps. Just curious.
There readily available at McMaster Carr and where I get then. but your right they are expensive !
Click to expand...
They’re bulky so take up a lot of room. They’re inconvenient to use in tight spaces and require special attention to clamp orientation, more so than a standard constant tension clamp or a standard worm-drive clamp.
For example, I found when using this clamp on the PHH, it would slip the short PHH off the hard line due to the way the breeze clamp had to be positioned and then torqued. I ended up changing out the clamp for a simple squeeze style constant tension clamp instead and it was much better. Plus, they’re expensive AF!
 
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