Migaloo the white Turbo 80

[frankenyota]

Carpet came up nice after the clean, took the tinny for a run down the river and noticed the new wastegate spring not boosting to the required 7.5 Psi and now running lean on the wideband. Decided to swap the original back but still running lean.
Noticed the fuel pump no longer holds it's pressure once turned off and goes straight back to zero, so thinking the pump has an issue, pressure seems ok but will check flow and voltage at the pump. Has no external leaks and if the injectors were faulty it would be rich. Have been told these pumps can draw a lot of amps so maybe it has caused a problem, wiring looks fine. Will also remove pump and inspect.

 

[frankenyota]

Removed pump and all seems fine, checked voltages at the pump and they seem low. Full throttle is only seeing 10.5 volts so not pushing enough fuel l assume.
Checked the flow rate of the pump and it seems ok, was comparing fake pumps vs genuine and it seems fake pumps don't have steel gears?
Not sure what these ones are, pictures below.
Wired in a relay to get full volts to the pump but ut runs way too rich at 14 volts and fuel pressure can't be adjusted down below 46 psi.
Thinking the fuel pump relay or circuit opening relay which supplies the fuel pump relay is the issue.
Wish l had have gone with a smaller pump maybe a Denso twin turbo pump or Walbro 255, that would have been plenty for my application.

 

[frankenyota]

Spent more time checking voltages, at idle and cruise the fuel pump receives around 7 volts via the resistor.
This seems to be ok but under full throttle acceleration it should receive 12 volts or more. I am not seeing the 12 and more like 10ish volts.
The power to the fuel relay is 12.2 which seems low, so traced out where the feed comes from, 15Amp EFI relay, then EFI relay then to the circuit opening relay, so replaced the EFI relay and got 13 volts at the fuel relay. I'm guessing that years of wear and tear have worn these down and every little bit drops voltage. Still a drop to the pump so maybe need to check connections in the loom or just run a nice 4mm wire to the pump, makes it easy to check with the carpet out.
Found a FSM procedure for checking the fuel relay but it’s for a 5 pin version and mine is a 4 pin, assume the later model is a 4 pin.

 

[frankenyota]

After some frustrations chasing voltage drops and suspecting the fuel relay l decided to swap in a standard pump l had.
The voltage at idle went to 8 volts and 12 volts under acceleration so l decided the Walbro 460 could be drawing too much amps and decreasing volts.
I have ordered a Denso pump with 250 L/hr flow rate and will give that a try, rather than the 460 L/hr.
It makes it hard when you don't have a aftermarket ECU which could help resolve some of the issues, but for the time being l will try the Denso pump which has a more suitable flow rate for my set up. Haltec 2000 is in the future thou and they have a plug and play for my model.
The Denso pump is 195131-9520

 

[frankenyota]

Decided to weld up the PO drilled holes in the floor.

 

[robnicko]

Spent more time checking voltages, at idle and cruise the fuel pump receives around 7 volts via the resistor.
This seems to be ok but under full throttle acceleration it should receive 12 volts or more. I am not seeing the 12 and more like 10ish volts.
The power to the fuel relay is 12.2 which seems low, so traced out where the feed comes from, 15Amp EFI relay, then EFI relay then to the circuit opening relay, so replaced the EFI relay and got 13 volts at the fuel relay. I'm guessing that years of wear and tear have worn these down and every little bit drops voltage. Still a drop to the pump so maybe need to check connections in the loom or just run a nice 4mm wire to the pump, makes it easy to check with the carpet out.
Found a FSM procedure for checking the fuel relay but it’s for a 5 pin version and mine is a 4 pin, assume the later model is a 4 pin.
View attachment 3155954

have you tried cleaning the contact points on the COR? they do get pitted over the years which can cause resistance and voltage drop

 

[frankenyota]

I swapped the relays over on the COR and tried cleaning the contacts on the fuel relay

 

[frankenyota]

So finished up installing the carpet with the new water proof underlay while waiting on the fuel pump and parts to arrive. Instead of sticking the underlay to the floor l wanted to be able to remove it if l needed to, so stuck it to the bottom of the carpet. This was a bit more work but l like the way it will turn out better.
l went with Carbuilders waterproof underlay and also got some stick on heat shield for the bonnet hood lining.
Removed all the old underlay first, the white paper is removed to reveal the sticky back side.

 

[frankenyota]

So the fuel pump arrived and when l got home and opened the box there was no filter sock or wiring plug that l was told it had, so after trying to find a solution l had to do another trip to Repco so they could rob the required parts from another pump kit.
So installed the new pump and still have the same issue, so after a few calls to Turbosmart to work out the best way to test the FPR800 they inform me the next day that the FPR800 is designed not to hold rail pressure, bugger.
So after playing around and trying different base fuel pressure l decided the injectors could be at fault and not delivering enough fuel. I had a spare set of injectors and made up a way to check the flow and spray pattern. Using Carry cleaner i checked the 2 hole spray pattern and all checked out after a bit of work.
So swapped in the spare set of injectors hoping this was my problem

 

[frankenyota]

During the injector cleaning l must have got some spray onto my UltraFlex headlights and stained the lens, not having a good run.
So l removed the headlight and polished the lens with my polisher and they came out like new thank god. While the lights were out l blasted the headlight holder and gave them a paint as they were rusting.

 

[frankenyota]

So after going over the fuel system l did some test drives and it appears to be only slightly better but still going to 19.8 full lean. I then suspected the o2 sensor could be at fault after speaking to someone who mentioned it wouldn’t run well at that reading. The Spartan controller for the wideband goes through its start up sequence as it should then goes to a live reading which is lean. No exhaust leaks or any reason to do this so l have ordered another sensor. Car is driving great so fingers crossed this is the issue. Might get the injectors cleaned and flow tested as they have a few miles on them.

 

[frankenyota]

I did find the EFI relay had melted from too much current which l suspect was from the walbro 460 as they draw a lot of current. I then tried to run the denso pump at full battery volts but it was quite noisy and didn’t fix the lean conditions. The walbro at full volts went full rich at 10 AFR

 

[frankenyota]

Well folks we have a winner
New wideband sensor and she is now back to where it should be and now running 9-10 psi boost, and goes like a cut snake.
Will be winding that down slightly for longevity of the engine, maybe 8psi.
So after going over everything l now know how to test and check every part of my EFI set up.
Now back to all the other projects

 

[frankenyota]

Dropped in to see a good mate who runs a Radiator shop and ordered some new air con parts. It’s getting hot here and l want to overhaul the air con and remake the hose that runs past the exhaust manifold. Ordered a new condenser, evaporator, TX valve and drier. The compressor is still good and l have a spare so decided to reuse them. Started by removing the evaporator and as you can see it’s a bit manky with 26 years of grime, l did clean it when I first bought the car.

 

[frankenyota]

Once I cleaned up the housing and replaced the old foam tape l went to clean the interior fan and found it needed a whole heap of love itself. So pulled the fan housing and stripped

 

[beatle_bayly]

Looks pretty good considering the age of the vehicle.
The AC on my last 80 was significantly colder and blew harder than my 100

 

[frankenyota]

When l first cleaned the evaporator years ago the water that came out was black and filthy, it must have done a good job as it wasn’t as bad as l thought it would be.
Blasted and painted the flaps and metal plate and gave them a coat of zinc paint.
Cut and fitted some stick backed foam l had, worked perfect. Reassembled the fan blower and installed.

 

[frankenyota]

All assembled and reinstalled with new orings. Evaporator back in dash, now to move onto the condenser

 

[frankenyota]

New condenser needs a bit more black paint
Looks like it has a bit of bending going on, probably from the rough bastards who made it

 

[frankenyota]

Here’s the old one l removed, painted the front of the radiator as the fins were starting to corrode and l will probably get a new radiator soon.
The front of the condenser was in good order and thereat was quite corroded, maybe due to the paint job the front had when l fitted the intercooler a few years back.