Migaloo the white Turbo 80

[frankenyota]

Because l had to rotate the inlet housing of the turbo to suit my custom J pipe l had to remake the wastegate actuator bracket, so made up a cardboard template to get the right set up. Start to finish of bracket.
NOTE : The turbo mounting nuts are only on at this point for mock up so not uses there locking function.

 

[frankenyota]

Ordered some 2 1/2" alloy bends and straight tubing for my intercooler piping.
Spent quite a few hours trimming and cutting the bends to maintain a nice flow but to also clear everything.
I originally wanted to go through the front panel under the headlights but the air con plumbing on the LHF made it a pain so went under and up between the wheel arches.
Once l had most of it cut to suit and marked up, a mate dropped by and TIG welded it for me. Never done any TIG work before but he has done quite a bit so it work for me.
I just search the 1FZ Turbo facebook page for pictures of the best way to route the tubing and came up with something that suits me.
Picture of my top piping to throttle body.
Then what l first wanted to do.
Last picture is the same way l ended up going about the piping, which has the same air con set up as mine.

 

[frankenyota]

Had a big clean up of the interior and had some new tint done on the windows.
Also had a leak from the front windscreen which worked out to be the lack of mastic sealer. Windscreens on 80 series need mastic to seal them, after researching it was a common problem. Once l resealed the windscreen it has been good.

Wish l had of gone darker on the back windows

 

[frankenyota]

Then things started to get serious, l realized that there would be a lot more heat under bonnet so looked at some options.
Bonnet scoops, lifting the rear of the bonnet to help released the heat.
I liked the Holden Colorado and late model Hilux scoops.
Was ready to drop some coin on a new Hilux scoop and ended up ringing around my local wreckers and found a white Colorado scoop for $45.
Sold at that price
Made up a template and cut that nice clean bonnet, that was scary.
Last picture is bonnet scoop sitting in position, colour is a close match as well.
I double sided taped and made up some small brackets to hold it in.
Wish i had of left the section with the rib for strength but once l reglued the ribs its solid as.

 

[frankenyota]

I was to believe that l needed a new fuel pump to keep up the demand of the turbo, running lean is a big problem for petrol turbo vehicles.
I was looking at a 255 Walbro but was told they were very noisy and instead was recommended the Walbro 460 as its super quiet.
Didn't like the idea of a noisy fuel pump so got the 460.
It took some small mods to fit it to my existing 80 series fuel pump bracket.
I had to use the old pick up screen as the supplied one was too deep, replaced the pick up hose to the pump with special rated submersible hose and used the supplied wiring. I trimmed the fitting on the pump to make the height work and used a hose clamp to mount it to the bracket for support.
Once installed it ran great but the wideband was reading super rich. I also bridged out the fuel resistor to give the pump a constant 12 volt power supplied, the factory pump has varied voltages for different conditions.
My gauge was showing the fuel pressure was too high at 55psi.
So l changed out the Fuel Pressure regulator with my spare and that's when l noticed the restriction in the return line.
I drilled it out and managed to drop the pressure but not to the factory spec.
So after a lot of should l or should l not run this until l install the turbo l decided to fit the original and leave the resistor bridged.

 

[frankenyota]

I have noticed now the turbo is fitted and before that the car took a few cranks to start. Possibly the fuel pump starting to get tired and also getting a full 12volts with the resistor bypassed. The parts are 25 years old so l bought a Turbo Smart FPR800 and fittings to adapt it to the fuel rail.
Still working out whether l should bypass the VSV for the fuel pressure control or just run it from the standard vacuum feed?

 

[frankenyota]

Everyone in Aus with a turbo 1FZ is running a diesel 1HZ which is a cooler thermostat, so l purchased one of these.
I always buy my thermostats from Toyota as they are a better quality and a good price.
Standard 1FZ is 82 degrees and 1HZ is 76 degrees.
My cruiser has gone from running at around 87 degrees down to 80 degrees.
Trying to flush my cooling system at the moment as you can see it has some brown build up.
The part number is for the 76 degree thermostat.

 

[frankenyota]

I ordered a pre fabbed 3" exhaust to suit a 105 series cruiser with a turbo from DEA Exhaust.
I was given some info that it would just need the dump pipe section made and went inside the chassis rail which l liked so l could fit some sliders later.
Well it wasn't that easy and the exhaust system needed some major work to fit but was cheaper than the custom option of $1,600 for a built steel or $1,800 for stainless. So being a budget project, (l have too many projects) l bought the DEA Exhaust delivered for $520 and a Berklee muffler for $135 and some 3" tube and also some 2 1/2" pipe for my HJ47 exhaust build.
There's a picture of my 2 1/2" system l built for the HJ47 with a straight through muffler, has a bit of a note for an old tractor.
A few shots of the extra pieces for the tail pipe l added to route it in the original position.
Also had to move the flange forward past the gearbox crossmember, fitted my wideband sensor and remade the section to the front of the muffler.
Exhaust sounds awesome and is not annoying which is what l was after so very happy after alot of fabricating it to fit.

 

[frankenyota]

Here are some pictures or my dump pipe.
I ended up going pie cuts and building a lobster back as a standard 3” 90 degree bend was not going to cut it.
I had limited space to work and would have been better to push the turbo forward to give more clearance and distance from the clutch master and Brake cylinders.
All good in hind site l guess
Turned out good but was a lot more work
She’s a full barnacle lobster back

 

[beatle_bayly]

Great stuff! I will be watching this with much more than a passing interest as I'd love to add some extra torque for towing, but not after a fire breathing monster.

I've been looking at a Turboglide drive-in/drive-out installation but COVID travel restrictions delayed that idea somewhat.

 

[frankenyota]

Hey mate jump on the facebook page 1FZ Turbo cruisers, there's plenty of info about the builds.
I think HD Automotive are now doing turbo kits in Brisbane using a j pipe set up.
Turboglide manifold was an option l was looking at originally but the standard GT3582 needed some work to fit, think they run a smaller turbo.
Many guys run these manifolds and they seem like a good option for low mount.
If your willing to travel south Simon Westmore is in NSW and builds heaps of Turbo FZ's.
Also Chasing adventures.net now doing a kit with the Pulsar turbo

1FZFE COMPLETE TURBO KIT SUIT 80 SERIES – Chasing Adventures

chasingadventures.net

Or buy quality parts and build it yourself if you have the time, it can be a time vs dollars but l enjoy projects.

 

[beatle_bayly]

Thanks mate,
I'll check out those sources.
Simon Westmore = O2 Autosports in Nowra? Pretty close to Turboglide (Woolongong)

 

[frankenyota]

Pretty sure he's in Nowra mate, not too sure on the name. If you find him on the turbo page and message him.
What year model 80 series do you have?

 

[frankenyota]

Looking at adding a heat shield around the dump or the clutch master cylinder to protect it.
Something like in the pictures below
I have some embossed heat shield but can’t decide which way to go?

 

[frankenyota]

Got the last of my alloy intercooler piping routed and cut to suit. Then got a good mate Mark to weld these bad boys together, wrapped in the finished piping.

 

[frankenyota]

Ordered some constant tension hose clamps, these were hard to source but EFI Solutions who l have got a few things off had these at a cheap price.
So l gave them a go, like how they have the double ridges to help clamp and have a smooth contact surface on the inside as to not damage the silicon hose.

 

[frankenyota]

Here are some pictures building the dump pipe on the spare motor and the clearance to the manifold.
J pipe wrapped, not a fan of the fibreglass wrap now, but it’s what I had. Will try some titanium next time l think.

 

[frankenyota]

So moving forward and with the turbo and manifold mounted in the 80 l started drilling and mounting the turbo oil drain fitting.
The fitting l used is an oring one and tapped and threaded two mounting bolts.
Had to remove the sump and wanted to make sure no fillings ended up in the sump so used some grease on the thread tap and drill.
Gave the sump a good clean up while l was there and a fresh coat of paint on the outside.

 

[Broski]

Nice work, and moving along at a good pace.

 

[frankenyota]

Nice work, and moving along at a good pace.

It seems like it but a lot of work took place over 12 months or more.
All the exhaust work and finally the fitment and adjustments has been the last 5 weeks.