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So this morning I want to check on her. Air✅, oil✅, spark✅✅, fuel is at a slight trickle out of the secondary fuel filter. Is there anything wrong with running an electric pump with a carburetor? There was sounds of like with a tiny bit of carb cleaner/ staring fluid, including a back fire in the carb.
 
I'd advise against using an electric fuel pump on a carb'd engine. None of the cheap ones are any good and your better off just buying a new mechanical fuel pump for the price. Couple things I'd check:

-Did you position the fuel pump arm under the cam properly?
-Are there any blockages in the fuel line that goes to the carb?
-Any blockages in the fuel lines going to the pump?
-Is any fuel leaking out of the fuel pump or it's connections?
-Check the oil and see if it smells like fuel because the internal fuel pump diaphragm is leaking internally and pouring into the crankcase

If it's doing any of the above buy a new fuel pump and call it a day (or clean/replace the fuel lines)
 
Some fuel in the carburetor and she made a noise. Started for a couple seconds and she sounded good.
 
I got the amber pod light covers on and the lens for the light bar replaced. The 2 pods and the bar are in place hooked up and bolted down.
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There is still a little problem with the light bar that it won't turn on. I think it might have something to do with the relay. The new pump came in last night but I didn't have the time to devote to installing it and running it.
 
So she is starting to wake up. She has made some noises and started a couple of times. My little digital tach/multi meter has said that the idle RPM's are between 4-600 but she kept stalling. I checked the timing and it was a bit advanced so I backed it off a bit and went a little bit too far. I took all of the carburetor adjustment out. and disconnected the vacuum advance. After I was able to get some heat built up last night I was able to adjust the valves again and get them correct. She now sounds like an old inline should sound. The valves have been getting oil to the top so my oil distribution has been good. The valve cover is going to go on tonight and I am getting ever so close to getting the air cleaner installed, hood back on and driving. Now My big thing is that blasted carburetor.
 
I enjoyed good success with following carefully the Factory Service Manual instructions for carb adjustment/tune up. You’ll need the manual for 1975+ since your 2f and carb are from that era.
 
So I got the valve cover on yesterday but sadly didn't have very much time to work on it. But as I test fitted the air cleaner I ran into some problems. The air cleaner sits too high so I got a spacer from city racer
IMG_20241119_162227291.jpg

And it still doesn't line up or seal that well.

Another thing is because of the secondary fuel filter location the air cleaner hits the fuel filter and causes a sharp angle on the fuel inlet for the carburetor.
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I need some ideas on what I can do to fix these new issues.

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I would try to install a 45 degree brass fitting at the carburetor, angled downward, to improve the angle of the incoming fuel line. I would also move the secondary fuel filter somewhere else both for leak/fire sake (2 connection points there) and so that it doesn't soak up engine heat and transfer it to the fuel.
 
If the spacer was a little taller, would the air cleaner line up with the air horn? Hard to tell from here.

In case it’s helpful, here is how my hardline runs.

View attachment 3776703
It is a little crooked where it is closer on the outside then the inside
 
Do you have the right air cleaner?
It is the air cleaner that came with the motor but the intake and exhaust and carburetor are from the original motor
 
It is the air cleaner that came with the motor but the intake and exhaust and carburetor are from the original motor
I just went through the air cleaner, valve cover, carburetor dance.

It’s a thing.
 
I just went through the air cleaner, valve cover, carburetor dance.

It’s a thing.
RevISK, can you share some more of your solution for this dance?
Dan,
Is the valve cover 1F or 2F?

Looks like that acorn nut on the valve cover is holding up the air cleaner. Can you use a different fastener there that would let the air cleaner ride lower?

Or do you have the equiptment to modify the air clear to clear the acorn nut in that spot?

Is that the PCV hose that’s traversing the valve cover under the air cleaner too? Re-route it behind the motor between the firewall and the valve cover.

Like others said, get a new fuel line hose and relocate the fuel filter. Run one continuous fuel hose from the pump to the carb. Bonus points for switching to a hard line, but I know cost is a factor. I know you have that cool old glass bowl filter with no filter inside. You could source the proper filter for inside that glass bowl and leave the second filter out entirely. Or replace the old glass bowl filter with a generic one that fits the hoses that currently connect to the glass one. Either way, you’re eliminating a leak/fire/vapor lock problem that the filter above your manifolds could cause.

You’re soooo close bro! Keep after it !
 
Alternatively, if you can get your hands on an earlier air filter housing, I believe that all of the interference issues would disappear.
View attachment 3776987
I had the older style but I kind of like the the Millennium Falcon air cleaner, plus I sold the old air cleaner assembly to help fund the machine work.:frown:
 
I used a newer style air filter housing, late fj40/early fj60 and a valve cover off of the same to get everything to fit. The earlier air filter housing for my previous VC was really hard to find.

What is the model number of your air cleaner housing?

Also, with this setup, I didn’t need the spacer I had bought from CR.
 

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