Builds mcgaskins' 2016 build thread - Ruby

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Now @indycole and @Markuson have build some serious beasts. (Mark, why did you remove your swing out rear bumper?). And @linuxgod makes me very comfortable that I am not pushing the limits with my trailer. (My tongue weight is closer to 900# but my weight before adding the trailer is considerably lower.) I did happen to look at the YouTube video of that company in Australia that does the GVM upgrades complete with Australia approved stickers and is essentially doing it with an upgraded suspension. I can’t remember was the increased GVM was in lbs but it was very significant.

@Dan Higgins , my rear swing-out removal was just temporary while Slee did a couple structural updates. They are back on now and better than ever. :)
 
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It does make me wonder how some trucks like @Markuson and @indycole are handling the extra weight which IIRC are ~8,000 pounds. Curious what you guys think about how the truck handles at that weight?

Edited to correct liquid amount (It said 1.5 gallons...should have said 19.5!).

About weight and handling...

Having adequately heavy rear springs helps a lot, but there’s another thing that I noticed plays a huge role—even more significant than I expected. That is center of gravity and weight placement.

We all know that heaviest weights are best kept low in the vehicle, but I recently observed just how important it really is with a specific, recent comparison.

I have up to 19.5 gallons of liquid on my bumper swing-outs. But...I also have a 24 gallon 2nd fuel tank that is up-armored and heavy even when not full. It is AMAZING the difference this 16 gallons make compared to the much heavier tank/24 gallons. When I fuel both tanks for 48.6 gallons of fuel...I feel the weight in acceleration, but I REALLY feel the handling difference when I fill my swingout jerry cans on my much higher basket...and put my spare on the back. This combined, high-point-weight really does change the handling more than simple over-all weight.

To me this illustrates a hidden value of a sub-tank for its lowest-possible-COG factor. It not only means handling suffers less, but also that I’m sooo much less tippy that if I were toting that fuel elsewhere.

A related aside—
For these reasons, I am not so sure I even want a roof rack any more. I’m convinced the high weight it just too detrimental to COG for my driving and wheeling style and a roof rack will just mean temptation to throw high weight up there. If I do get a roof rack, it will be as low-profile as I can find...and mostly just to facilitate an awning at some point.

This also means a roof-top tent is pretty much out of the question for me unless I know I’m on my way to Alaska or South America where navigating tippy rocks is less likely, and bears are worth sleeping above. :)

All that to say... To the handling question, it’s really not bad at all in my opinion but COG is super important. Probably more important than some might guess.

I feel pretty sure I would have rolled at Cruise Moab, Steel Bender trail if I had a heavy tent up top. I think Ken Romer and TonyP can vouch for that. :) The last drop is just that tippy.
 
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A related aside—
For these reasons, I am not so sure I even want a roof rack any more. I’m convinced the high weight it just too detrimental to COG for my driving and wheeling style and a roof rack will just mean temptation to throw high weight up there. If I do get a roof rack, it will be as low-profile as I can find...and mostly just to facilitate an awning at some point.

That’s actually another reason I am planning to keep the stock rack and drilling into it or bolting stuff onto it as necessary. It’s pretty strong and light for an OEM rack, and on my 100 I bolted an ARB awning onto the factory crossbars and to my knowledge that’s how it still sits today 5 years later with the current owner. Aftermarket racks look cool, but considering the added cost, weight, wind noise, etc. I’ll most likely skip this time. I have some Eezi Awn universal brackets on the side bars right now that are designed to hold an awning or hi lift, but the only problem is I won’t fit in my garage at home with those on. I’ll save that for trips only.
 
On the handling side I will say that I don't feel like I have much fidelity with the BP-51s. There's a thin line between a bouncy front end and settings that are way too stiff.

FWIW I've found the same thing on my 45mm adjustable Tough Dog shocks. I'm running at a setting of 4 on all 4 shocks and with my build it's nice, but 3 is definitely too floaty and 6 is jarring on bumpy roads even when I have the trailer attached.
 
Quick note about handling post above... My response said 1.5 gallons. Should have said 19.5! Ha! No...1.5 gallons doesn’t dramatically change lean...but 19.5 up higher does! :)
 
It’s been a while since I’ve updated this thread, but Ruby is going to get a couple of upgrades in the near future...

E542E6AE-A45D-4998-802E-73C4B39E2E41.jpeg
 
Is that a bumper?

Not a bumper...I actually have a special one coming from Australia that is not sold in the US, but more on that later.

The TJM box contains an Airtech snorkel, and I have a couple of other things I need to find time to install soon!

93ADE889-B69F-4DD3-925A-3C739FC28BCD.jpeg
 
If I had to guess on the bumper, Rhino 4x4?

Are you tackling the snorkel yourself?

Exactly right on the bumper. My buddy just installed this snorkel himself on his 200, and he said it wasn't difficult. I may see if doesn't mind giving me a hand installing it since he really knows what he's doing, but I'm certainly not above taking it to Slee to install :D
 
The snorkel wasn't difficult on my 2013. Just takes some decent cutting fluid... 2 or 3 shots of whiskey and you won't have any trouble cutting into the fender :-)

A stepped drill bit, a sawzall with a good metal cutting blade, and a blind rivet tool, some touch-up paint, and balls you carry around in a wheelbarrow is all you need. The first cut is the hardest... after that you'll be fine. The only thing that made it really uncomfortable to me was that you have to trust the template, since the lip on the snorkel will prevent you from test-fitting until you've cut the big hole.
 
Got any pics of it installed? I will be getting one for my 2013.

There are a few in this thread. I can take more if anyone wants to see something specific.

Ironman Snorkel

FWIW I went with the Dobinson's snorkel, which is a replicate of the ARB, but at half the cost. It's held up just fine - no fading, no cracking, and it says "Land Cruiser" instead of "Safari" on it. A few small fitment annoyances... not sure if I would've had the same with the ARB. (I think the quarter panel/A-pillar gap on the ARB is the same, but not sure about the riveted bracket). The connection to the air filter box is weird on all of them.

Happy to share more details, just ask
 
Great looking build Matt! You're making me question the wisdom of buying a Jeep JLU and building it. Talk me out of it.

Oh and I had the same Nitto Ridge Grapplers and lift on my 2015 200 and I had no rubbing with the spidertrax 1.25' spacers installed. I loved the stance and lowered CoG and no rubbing.
 
Great looking build Matt! You're making me question the wisdom of buying a Jeep JLU and building it. Talk me out of it.

Oh and I had the same Nitto Ridge Grapplers and lift on my 2015 200 and I had no rubbing with the spidertrax 1.25' spacers installed. I loved the stance and lowered CoG and no rubbing.

Long time no chat! I like the JL and am excited for the Gladiator too. So many good choices nowadays. We should get together once I get this one buttoned up!
 
Now @indycole and @Markuson have build some serious beasts. (Mark, why did you remove your swing out rear bumper?). And @linuxgod makes me very comfortable that I am not pushing the limits with my trailer. (My tongue weight is closer to 900# but my weight before adding the trailer is considerably lower.) I did happen to look at the YouTube video of that company in Australia that does the GVM upgrades complete with Australia approved stickers and is essentially doing it with an upgraded suspension. I can’t remember was the increased GVM was in lbs but it was very significant.

4200kg GVM is available in AU on the 200 series using kings suspension and an upgraded diff housing to increase axle weights. 3800kg is very common even using basic tin cans with oil bottom end 46mm shocks). Note ive NEVER seen any chassis issues or even control arm failures down here.
 
Lovell's GVM upgrade is 500kg/1200#
 

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