Builds mcgaskins' 2016 build thread - Ruby (1 Viewer)

[Itsky]

Nice thread!

Very interesting to read your experiences!

As noted above, I’d love to hear more about ome BP51s vs OME vs Icons. I just bought a 2013 200 after coming from a 2006 4runner on Icon suspension, which I loved, and am having trouble deciding which direction to go.

It would also be nice to hear about your decision to go with a single battery vs dual. All I need to run is a HAM radio and fridge and was thinking of getting a dual battery, but I’ve read here and elsewhere that maybe a large single with solar is just as good.

Nice color choice, btw, very unique.

 

[04UZJ100]

No problem. I know you have been baselining your LX, and I think as long as fluid flushes are done the system is very robust. I cannot believe how well the suspension performs at this age/mileage on and off road. As I've mentioned on quite a few people's queries about which truck to buy, the LX is very hard to beat for value considering the additional luxury features and AHC for generally the same or less money than an LC. There are no bad buys in the whole run of the 200, but IMO I think the best buys are the early LXs for the value play and the 16+ LC for the best combination of modern features and styling.

Glad to hear it! The PO took very good care of it but there was no record of AHC service. Knocked that out last week so my wife and I are all set.

 

[fireball]

Nice thread!
It would also be nice to hear about your decision to go with a single battery vs dual. All I need to run is a HAM radio and fridge and was thinking of getting a dual battery, but I’ve read here and elsewhere that maybe a large single with solar is just as good.

My $.02: Absolutely no need unless you plan on travel which includes staying in one place for multiple days and have a huge aversion to a solar panel and emergency jump pack. I fell into the dual battery trap on my 100, and spent a ton of time, money, energy and weight penalty installing a dual battery. I would've been 100% fine with the larger grp31 main battery and a jump pack.

 

[Itsky]

Great insights! I’ll start another thread!

 

[mcgaskins]

@mcgaskins - Awesome build thread, thanks for sharing! I'm one of the many that have PM'd you about the details of your build, you've definitely inspired my plans for my 2016. I know Slee installed your BP51 setup but any idea what the preload is on your front coilovers? Your truck has a perfect stance but I know there is a trade off between a higher preload setting and ride quality with the BP51's, especially without any extra weight up front, so I'm curious where yours is set.

You mentioned your Tacoma had Icons, I realize your 200 is a different application but what are your thoughts between the two setups? Also, is the BP51 setup really head and shoulders better than a simple OME lift?

I don't know the preload on the front unfortunately, but I don't have any real weight above stock other than the group 31 battery and tray. The front is lifted pretty significantly over stock and does not have the factory rake any more, and it was noticeable enough I had to aim the headlights down quite a bit because they were pointed way too high.

Regarding the Icons vs BP51s... I like them both a lot. I trust and like ARB/OME as a brand, and I trust and like Slee even more. The BP51 is at the top of the food chain according to both (and well stocked at Slee), and I'm very happy with them on the 200. I have a later version of the shocks which do not make any noise whatsoever - they're unbelievably quiet in fact. They're great on the pavement and in slow off road, but by far where they shine the best is higher speed off road. They soak up bumps above 10mph ridiculously well and don't show any signs of fading or overheating when put through their paces, and I appreciate how OEM they look in the 200 combined with the SPC UCAs. It took a couple of adjustments of the rebound and compression to get them just right, which in my opinion is kind of a pain and you need tools for it, but now they're set they're amazing.

The Icons are more expensive, but they offer a far easier adjustment process and are more "exotic" which is good and bad. They make a little more noise and will likely require more maintenance, and they definitely look cooler and less stock. They were combined with Total Chaos UCAs and LCAs which have uniballs, and they definitely require more maintenance and will squeak and groan like a haunted pirate ship unless you keep up on the routine of cleaning and lubing them which isn't hard just time consuming. My favorite feature was the CDCV which allowed you to simply turn on a knob on the external reservoir to adjust the shocks' firmness on a scale of 1-10. I would have them cranked up to an 8 or so for driving around town, and they handled great without being harsh. When I'd air down off road, I'd adjust them softer depending on the terrain, and they'd be dialed in well for those conditions. The setup worked ridiculously well, and I have nothing bad to say about it.

I guess the easiest way to answer the question is would I build up a truck again using BP51s or Icons? The answer is yes The biggest determining factors for me to decide which to go with would be price and support from an installer. The Icons are more expensive, and while I think Slee has installed them here and there, they are a big dealer for BP51s and have installed many kits on 200s. If it was the other way around and they were a big Icon dealer, I would have gone Icon. To me, getting the suspension installed, dialed and aligned correctly is every bit as important as choosing the right components.

 

[mcgaskins]

Nice thread!

Very interesting to read your experiences!

As noted above, I’d love to hear more about ome BP51s vs OME vs Icons. I just bought a 2013 200 after coming from a 2006 4runner on Icon suspension, which I loved, and am having trouble deciding which direction to go.

It would also be nice to hear about your decision to go with a single battery vs dual. All I need to run is a HAM radio and fridge and was thinking of getting a dual battery, but I’ve read here and elsewhere that maybe a large single with solar is just as good.

Nice color choice, btw, very unique.

Post above sheds some more light on the Icon vs BP51 question.

I've had single and dual battery setups, and with this build I wanted to only add components as they are needed not just wanted or cool. The only accessories I have are very efficient/low draw, and even the fridge is pretty easy on it. It was a pretty easy decision for me to use the Slee battery tray and Interstate AGM battery as that's what I used in my 14 which had many more accessories including a winch, and I never felt like I needed more battery. Dual battery setups are cool and "expo rated", but in being honest with myself I realized it didn't need it in this truck.

A couple caveats:

- I never leave the truck sitting for than 2 days at camp with the fridge and other accessories draining the battery (I use the rear charging ports for my Mavic drone batteries)
- I always have at least one if not two jumper packs with me including the massive NOCO 150
- I could easily add a simple solar panel to keep the battery charged while parked for longer than 2 days
- Whenever I'm not using the fridge, I kill the power to the rear fuse block so there is no parasitic or slow draw
- Whenever I'm getting ready for a trip, I use the AC cord on the ARB fridge and plug it in the garage to get the fridge cold, and I usually try to add food and drinks that are also already cold reducing the load on the fridge
- I use an AGM charger/conditioner to keep the battery healthy once a month and before a big trip, and I keep a battery tester with me and periodically ensure the battery is healthy (I actually had one Interstate fail which the tester indicated)

Here is the charger I use, and I bought through Autozone with a 20% off coupon and free shipping which is the cheapest place I found it: https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...ey-20-amp-portable-battery-charger/850881_0_0

A key component is having a circuit breaker close to the battery so you can kill the power to non essential items easily for when you don't need them. I made a short ~4" 6 gauge cable that goes to the circuit breaker, and it stays in the off position until I need the fridge. You can see the short run cable here that interrupts the duplex cable. I used high strength velcro on top of the Slee battery bracket to hold the breaker down, and it hasn't moved at all in this truck or the prior truck I rigged up the same way. I prefer to use this spot instead of the fuse box because it keeps the cable as short as possible and allows unrestricted access to the fuse box which is where a lot of people add wiring and accessories.

 

[tarheel40]

Thank your for the detailed input @mcgaskins , I really appreciate it! I had a basic OME kit on my 4runner and have one on my 80 series now, always been a big fan of the company. I’d prefer to keep suspension maintenance minimal, which pushes me more toward OME after your experiences with both BP51s and Icons.

You make a good point about local shops and what they are familiar with too, wish I was closer to Slee! Don’t know of any dedicated Toyota shops in NC but will definitely do some research before making my final suspension decision. 3rd gen 4runner and 80 series suspensions are fairly simple, with KDSS and a fairly new 200 series I’d like to find someone who is familiar with newer cruisers!

 

[JohnJB]

@tarheel40 while it almost sounds comical. If you decide you want to lift your 200, it's not insane to just drive out to CO, schedule yourself at Slee, and then go explore CO/UT. Obviously, this is only possible if you're afforded the luxury of time. Some folks ship to Slee but I wouldn't be looking to spend $2k in shipping and not get a vacation out of it!
That said, another member @ytaebnairb did have his BP51s installed at RubiTrux up in Boone. Pretty sure he left a happy customer!

 

[DirtNap]

You had me at "look cooler".
But thx also for the bits about the battery , fridge, etc

Regarding the Icons vs BP51s... I like them both a lot. I trust and like ARB/OME as a brand, and I trust and like Slee even more. The BP51 is at the top of the food chain according to both (and well stocked at Slee), and I'm very happy with them on the 200. I have a later version of the shocks which do not make any noise whatsoever - they're unbelievably quiet in fact. They're great on the pavement and in slow off road, but by far where they shine the best is higher speed off road. They soak up bumps above 10mph ridiculously well and don't show any signs of fading or overheating when put through their paces, and I appreciate how OEM they look in the 200 combined with the SPC UCAs. It took a couple of adjustments of the rebound and compression to get them just right, which in my opinion is kind of a pain and you need tools for it, but now they're set they're amazing.

The Icons are more expensive, but they offer a far easier adjustment process and are more "exotic" which is good and bad. They make a little more noise and will likely require more maintenance, and they definitely look cooler and less stock. They were combined with Total Chaos UCAs and LCAs which have uniballs, and they definitely require more maintenance and will squeak and groan like a haunted pirate ship unless you keep up on the routine of cleaning and lubing them which isn't hard just time consuming. My favorite feature was the CDCV which allowed you to simply turn on a knob on the external reservoir to adjust the shocks' firmness on a scale of 1-10. I would have them cranked up to an 8 or so for driving around town, and they handled great without being harsh. When I'd air down off road, I'd adjust them softer depending on the terrain, and they'd be dialed in well for those conditions. The setup worked ridiculously well, and I have nothing bad to say about it.

I guess the easiest way to answer the question is would I build up a truck again using BP51s or Icons? The answer is yes The biggest determining factors for me to decide which to go with would be price and support from an installer. The Icons are more expensive, and while I think Slee has installed them here and there, they are a big dealer for BP51s and have installed many kits on 200s. If it was the other way around and they were a big Icon dealer, I would have gone Icon. To me, getting the suspension installed, dialed and aligned correctly is every bit as important as choosing the right components.

 

[linuxgod]

My favorite feature was the CDCV which allowed you to simply turn on a knob on the external reservoir to adjust the shocks' firmness on a scale of 1-10.

I don't understand why more shock manufacturers don't go this route. My less expensive foam cell Tough Dog shocks have this on the bottom of the shock body. It can make a HUGE difference in ride, and I can adjust all 4 corners in under 60 seconds if I significantly change the load (i.e. adding a heavy trailer). I have no idea what that knob is doing on the inside of the shocks, but it looks pretty simple on the outside

 

[tarheel40]

@JohnJB I love the idea of a big road trip/vacation/Slee pit stop in Colorado but my wife and I have a little girl due the first of February so I don’t foresee this being a realistic option anytime soon. Saw the install in Boone in a thread when I was researching suspension, I’ll keep that in mind. There’s IPOR in VA and ACC in Atlanta but that’s still a 5-6 hour drive each way plus down time while the work is getting done.

@linuxgod I think that’s an awesome feature of the Tough Dog shocks, that seems like a great kit that’s a step up from basic OME but less complex/costly than BP51. I assume you’ve been pleased? What spring/shock combo do you have and how much lift did that give you?

 

[mcgaskins]

@blatant and others have asked an important question I didn't address in this thread - do the tires fit with no rubbing whatsoever? The answer is not quite. I really wanted to keep the stock wheels, and I wanted the biggest tire I could get on them without major issues. I ran 285/75/17 RGs on my 14 which according to Nitto are 33.86x11.26", and they were close to perfect. I ran the KDSS relocation on that truck, and they only very slightly rubbed at extreme angles, but it wasn't enough to address. Ideally I wanted a tire that was a touch taller and narrower, so I picked the 285/70/18 RGs which according to Nitto are 33.98x11.50" wide. I was expecting a ton of rubbing, but to my pleasant surprise it was pretty minimal. After removing the front mudflaps, about 90% of the rubbing was gone. What remained was mainly present in reverse during sharp turns, and it was mostly up front and slightly on the KDSS.

When Slee installed the BP51s, they aligned with the truck with the tire in mind, which is another reason I think it's important to show up with the tire size you want to run already installed or have the shop install tires there at the same time as the lift/alignment. I noticed some very subtle plastic cutting they did at the very front and bottom of the fender liner which alleviated the rubbing further. I still get some slight rubbing on the KDSS at full lock, but in my wheeling in Moab and Telluride it was never bad enough to do anything about. I am still considering adding 0.75" Bora spacers which I think would eliminate the rubbing altogether, but I'll admit the desire is as much of an appearance thing as anything else. I do think the truck would have the perfect stance with the spacers, but again it's such a minor issue I haven't made it a priority at all. My biggest goal with this truck buying it in late March was to get it built and get it out on the trails and enjoy the summer as much as possible. Now that wheeling season is close to over, I can go back and address some of the more minor issues.

 

[mcgaskins]

I don't understand why more shock manufacturers don't go this route. My less expensive foam cell Tough Dog shocks have this on the bottom of the shock body. It can make a HUGE difference in ride, and I can adjust all 4 corners in under 60 seconds if I significantly change the load (i.e. adding a heavy trailer). I have no idea what that knob is doing on the inside of the shocks, but it looks pretty simple on the outside

I don’t get it either other than a cost thing. But I remember in the late 90s when I was first driving Rancho had adjustable shocks way back then (RS9000 I believe), and the cost wasn’t too crazy like $150/shock. I would imagine the cost could be very reasonable today, but that doesn’t seem to be the case.

 

[mcgaskins]

I mounted the Maxtrax on the roof with their universal mounting pin set. I drilled through the factory cross bars because I don’t really have a need for an aftermarket roof rack, and if I’m being honest I’m not a fan of them due to wind noise. I’m the most sensitive person I know to any creaks, rattles, squeaks, squeals, etc. and I have not found a silent rack yet other than OEM. Oh and I also have a full OEM rack in the crawlspace if I jack this one up. Fortunately it turned out just fine and clears the garage door at home by roughly half an inch I’ll add some small locks onto the pins and get some rubber caps for the bottom of the exposed bolts. Very pleased with how low profile it is, and best of all it’s totally silent even with the sunroof open.

 

[Markuson]

@tarheel40 while it almost sounds comical. If you decide you want to lift your 200, it's not insane to just drive out to CO, schedule yourself at Slee, and then go explore CO/UT. Obviously, this is only possible if you're afforded the luxury of time. Some folks ship to Slee but I wouldn't be looking to spend $2k in shipping and not get a vacation out of it!
That said, another member @ytaebnairb did have his BP51s installed at RubiTrux up in Boone. Pretty sure he left a happy customer!

I’ve done that more than once....and also made serious re-routes to other trips to get my truck to Slee. When you need something done right, it can definitely be worth the time & miles.

 

[linuxgod]

@linuxgod I think that’s an awesome feature of the Tough Dog shocks, that seems like a great kit that’s a step up from basic OME but less complex/costly than BP51. I assume you’ve been pleased? What spring/shock combo do you have and how much lift did that give you?

Not to go too OT on @mcgaskins thread, but...

I've been very pleased with their performance. They are 45mm adjustables, normal duty (0-660#) front and rear. My only complaint was that TD said to ignore the marking on the springs and put the taller spring on the driver's side, which is WRONG - the taller spring always goes on the RH side where the gas tank is - so I had to swap mine left-to-right (a bit of a hassle).

@reevesci at Trail Tailor is the US distributor for Tough Dog. He sells the kits with shocks and springs and the struts are already assembled.

With towing a heavy trailer and the winch bumper if I were to do it again I'd buy the heavier springs, or look at something like the Trail Tailor tourflex HD coils that Jason has developed. Don't get me wrong - with a WD hitch and rear air bags the truck sits level, but including the TW of the trailer and 5 people I'm at about 8200#. When we're not towing with my setup (winch bumper, roof rack, sliders, recovery gear, and 5 people) the ride is excellent though with all 4 shocks on setting #4.

 

[tarheel40]

Not to go too OT on @mcgaskins thread, but...

I've been very pleased with their performance. They are 45mm adjustables, normal duty (0-660#) front and rear. My only complaint was that TD said to ignore the marking on the springs and put the taller spring on the driver's side, which is WRONG - the taller spring always goes on the RH side where the gas tank is - so I had to swap mine left-to-right (a bit of a hassle).

@reevesci at Trail Tailor is the US distributor for Tough Dog. He sells the kits with shocks and springs and the struts are already assembled.

With towing a heavy trailer and the winch bumper if I were to do it again I'd buy the heavier springs, or look at something like the Trail Tailor tourflex HD coils that Jason has developed. Don't get me wrong - with a WD hitch and rear air bags the truck sits level, but including the TW of the trailer and 5 people I'm at about 8200#. When we're not towing with my setup (winch bumper, roof rack, sliders, recovery gear, and 5 people) the ride is excellent though with all 4 shocks on setting #4.

Perfect, thank you for the insight! I’ve been in contact with Jason and have a kit on the way, can’t wait to get it installed - will definitely follow your advice about the taller spring going on the RH side, seen that mentioned in previous posts of yours. Looking forward to the suspension upgrade!

 

[TeCKis300]

I mounted the Maxtrax on the roof with their universal mounting pin set. I drilled through the factory cross bars because I don’t really have a need for an aftermarket roof rack, and if I’m being honest I’m not a fan of them due to wind noise. I’m the most sensitive person I know to any creaks, rattles, squeaks, squeals, etc. and I have not found a silent rack yet other than OEM. Oh and I also have a full OEM rack in the crawlspace if I jack this one up. Fortunately it turned out just fine and clears the garage door at home by roughly half an inch I’ll add some small locks onto the pins and get some rubber caps for the bottom of the exposed bolts. Very pleased with how low profile it is, and best of all it’s totally silent even with the sunroof open.

I can't agree enough with the OEM rack. Yes, it's not as cool and expo looking. But they are built strong with significant cast aluminum feet and side rails. The crossbars tend to be a bit more flexi, but flexible is durable!

As you have an extra rack... One of the great things I've done was to add additional OE cross bars to my rack. I have 3 on it, but 4 would practically make a platform. And still ever so quiet!

 

[TonyP]

One of the many reasons I never got a rack.
The OEM rack with a couple extra crossbars is more than sufficent.

 

[RET2]

One of the many reasons I never got a rack.
The OEM rack with a couple extra crossbars is more than sufficent.

Speaking of which does anyone (preferably in SoCal) have any stock crossbars that they no longer need?