Max Tire Size for Stock FJ40?

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charliemeyer007 said:
Split rims have killed people that didn't understand what they were doing. Most tire shops will not do them anymore, and if they do it will cost extra. Bead lockers might be an option- not any have highway use approved. I looked at 16" rims, it was like $1000 for the set. I'll just keep my 15 and put on a set of new tires - likely the last set I ever have to buy
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Me too.
 
I ran a 33x9.50 on stock springs on the 77 way back when... and yeah, it rubbed a tiny bit at full stuff.

nak_grayrims_softop3.jpg


current setup on the 82 is a 31 x 10.50 which has been suggested a bunch now... so +1 for this is the largest tire to run with a stock suspension and no rubbing


IMG_9875.jpg
 
flx said:
By split he is referring to the fact that my rims can be "split in 2" to install the tire (technically this design should be called locking rim more than split).
In the US the 40 were delivered with a plain rim without this removable ring. The ring allows to install stiffer tire with very basic tools anywhere.
View attachment 3638030

The clips are those little clips which the only function is to be able to install the decorative hub cap.
View attachment 3638033
In comparison those wheels don't have the clips:
View attachment 3638035

And this is the only (decorative) utility of those clips:
View attachment 3638038
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Thank you! Very helpful. Now I know.

Looking at the photos of my FJ40 (which should arrive here and of next week) It appears that the clips are still on the wheels, even though the hubcaps are gone.

If clips are missing and/or in too bad a shape to be useful, can they be replaced?

Thank you
 
ace10 said:
For what it's worth, this my '67 FST sporting some new 235/75R15s. They're super-cheap Goodyear Wrangler Trailrunners.
I believe the springs to be original.

That's a ~29" tire with a 9.3" crossection. A 31" would fit, but I really didn't want to go any wider for fear of possibly damaging the body.
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View attachment 3638075
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NICE looking rig! And those are the same tires I run on my daily driver 25 year old Toyota 4Runner. Good price, and I've been pleased with them. I may run the same thing on the FJ40.
 
Roastchestnuts said:
yes 1 inch over factory.
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Hmmm... that might be the way to go. It would be just enough for a little more tire clearance, but not enough for my wife to realize it's been lifted (LOL!). May I ask, where can I get them and are they reasonable on price?
 
nakman said:
I ran a 33x9.50 on stock springs on the 77 way back when... and yeah, it rubbed a tiny bit at full stuff.

View attachment 3638337

current setup on the 82 is a 31 x 10.50 which has been suggested a bunch now... so +1 for this is the largest tire to run with a stock suspension and no rubbing


View attachment 3638338
Click to expand...
Thank you. Good to know. So going down 2 inches on height allows you to run a 1 inch wider tire. Unless you do a 1 to 2 inch lift and then you can run the 33" x 9.5" without rubbing. I wonder if you do a 1 or 2 inch lift (via springs or shackles or both) if you could run a 33" x 10.5" without rubbing?
 
jim land said:
A lift spring kit make more room for bigger tires , but will not make any difference for the clearence at full stuff vs stock spring.
Only the bump stop can give clearence for bigger tire when the suspension is flex to the max
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Thank you. What is the best source for the bigger bump stop, and what size do you and the others recommend I get?

I also remember 20 years ago when I was building my 1934 Coupe Street Rod, I custom ordered new coil springs (based on the total weight they were going to hold up including oil & coolant weight) and they made me coil springs that lowered the car but gave an even better ride. They weren't expensive either (back then). It may be possible to order new springs that could get it back to original height or however many inches taller you want and with an improvement in ride quality even at full stuff. Hmm... 🤔
 
jim land said:
The best way to know for bump stop is to flex the suspension and look when the tire contact the fender and build some spacer with longer bolts
You should test with the wheels turn to max right and left
With 33x10.5 bfg AT on my bj42 it only need 1/2" shims un the front

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View attachment 3638818
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OK, so I could be wrong, but I "think" what we may have here is a lack of knowledge and understanding on my part, since I am new to the FJ40 scene.

I "thought" that a "bump stop" was one of those rubber knob / cone looking things that goes close to the coils spring or an A-Arm (on old hot rods anyway) and when it reaches 'full travel' the suspension "bumps" that piece of rubber, stopping the travel, instead of a horrible metal on metal BANG CLANG painful make you cringe sound.

Is that correct, or did I miss the mark?

Thank you all for the education.
 
igotta40 said:
33x9.50-15 Kenda Klever, no lift, stock factory wheels and springs, no rubbing

View attachment 3639542

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LOVE IT! Especially since I'm Texas born and bred. So, just to clarify, even if you are going off road and the springs & shocks are at full range of motion, you are not getting any rubbing or issues with this setup. Correct?

Let me ask this... do you think that is because of:

1. Your factory springs and suspension are in better shape than most? Not as much beating over the years? Or...

2. Is it the brand and model of tire you are using that makes a difference?

I've seen a couple of other people in the forums say they were using the same tire, or at least I "think" so as they said a Kenda Kevlar tire, to which I actually sat here and thought it myself "Wow... they are using Kevlar bullet proof vest & helmet material in tires nowadays... no wonder they are tough!" and now I'm thinking it was a typo and I'm an uneducated FJ40 idiot. LOL.

So... please educate me on why you think you are able to run that tire on your rig. And, what year is your rig? Looks GREAT! I still have a little place in Texas, and a very old friend was a missionary to Africa has a real deal old FJ40 in his barn that was his daily drive in Africa, complete with snorkel and PTO winch/ "Maybe" I can take it off his hands.
 
FloridaLife said:
LOVE IT! Especially since I'm Texas born and bred. So, just to clarify, even if you are going off road and the springs & shocks are at full range of motion, you are not getting any rubbing or issues with this setup. Correct?

Let me ask this... do you think that is because of:

1. Your factory springs and suspension are in better shape than most? Not as much beating over the years? Or...

2. Is it the brand and model of tire you are using that makes a difference?

I've seen a couple of other people in the forums say they were using the same tire, or at least I "think" so as they said a Kenda Kevlar tire, to which I actually sat here and thought it myself "Wow... they are using Kevlar bullet proof vest & helmet material in tires nowadays... no wonder they are tough!" and now I'm thinking it was a typo and I'm an uneducated FJ40 idiot. LOL.

So... please educate me on why you think you are able to run that tire on your rig. And, what year is your rig? Looks GREAT! I still have a little place in Texas, and a very old friend was a missionary to Africa has a real deal old FJ40 in his barn that was his daily drive in Africa, complete with snorkel and PTO winch/ "Maybe" I can take it off his hands.
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These Kenda Klever (not Kevlar) are narrow enough on the Toyota 5.5” rims that they stay inside the quarter panels. When one rear wheel drops, the other side stuffs into the quarter panel and tilts inside a little bit. It clears the sheet metal. The front left will contact the steering drag link on full lock, but the BF Goodrich Mud Terrain KM2 also did. They were 31-10.50x15. Adjusting the steering stop will fix that, I just haven’t done it. I just got these Kenda tires last July and they are noticeably taller and narrower. If I lift the truck I can only go an inch or two higher because then it won’t fit in my garage. Leaving the truck outside isn’t an option. It’s a 1974
 
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