- Thread starter
- #321
Just googled that system. Yeah, that’s slick
I’ll show it to my friend and see what he says.
Wood working is totally out of my wheelhouse, so recruiting a friend that’s savy with it to assist.
Thanks for the idea. I dig it
Builds Manglers "Flying Egg" Resto-Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Boston Mangler
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Just googled that system. Yeah, that’s slick
I’ll show it to my friend and see what he says.
Wood working is totally out of my wheelhouse, so recruiting a friend that’s savy with it to assist.
Thanks for the idea. I dig it
- Thread starter
- #322
Using Bluettis DCDC charger for this since it’s specifically designed to charge the power station as ya drive with one simple plug.
At full tilt, it will charge around 45A or so, but it can be throttled down in the app.
I set it to 20A to not overwork the alternator and honestly with the capacity of the power station, it won’t need mobile charging often, but I wanted it, in case
Still need to clean this all up and protect some things, but here is the general idea:
At full tilt, it will charge around 45A or so, but it can be throttled down in the app.
I set it to 20A to not overwork the alternator and honestly with the capacity of the power station, it won’t need mobile charging often, but I wanted it, in case
Still need to clean this all up and protect some things, but here is the general idea:
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- Thread starter
- #323
Got some progress made on the sleep platform / storage for an upcoming trip this weekend
Friend came up with a slick and clean adjustable hinge solution and we got the lid mounted and setup
After playing with a bunch of latching ideas, I went with adjustable toggle latches. Mainly because they are very easy to adjust the tension on to prevent any rattling, or movement and also the simplistic design and function.
More tweaks and adjustments will be made once the carpet finally shows up. Pretty dang stoked how this is coming out
The DCDC charger will be moved and tucked away hidden in the front angled area, but this is functional enough for this weekends up coming camping:
Note: Drivers seat is moved all the way forward in pic
Friend came up with a slick and clean adjustable hinge solution and we got the lid mounted and setup
After playing with a bunch of latching ideas, I went with adjustable toggle latches. Mainly because they are very easy to adjust the tension on to prevent any rattling, or movement and also the simplistic design and function.
More tweaks and adjustments will be made once the carpet finally shows up. Pretty dang stoked how this is coming out
The DCDC charger will be moved and tucked away hidden in the front angled area, but this is functional enough for this weekends up coming camping:
Note: Drivers seat is moved all the way forward in pic
You could probably easily add a prop device on that lid to have it stay open, something like this:
- Thread starter
- #325
Hahahaha…. I literally have that in my Amazon cart!
Yessir. That’s coming soon.
Also working on a limiting strap of some sort.
At FULL extend/open the lid will make contact with the overhead DVD player assembly. Will I ever open it that much? Doubtful, but still putting a strap in, just in case
Thinking this prop might serve as a limiter as well, will see
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #326
Another local SoCal ARB Drawer find if anyone is looking…. Cough cough @dudemancool1904
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- Thread starter
- #328
Well…. Got the hard stuff out of the way replacing everything on front of motor finally
Been having a bearing noise/squeal that I was thinking was the PS pump. Based on reading here, I was long overdue for one.
Thanks to @bloc (that PS pump trick was a life saver) @KLF and @TeCKis300 for the advice and tips.
220k miles on the clock. Going through the heap of service records, best I can tell, everything other than the SERP belt was original
Report of the condition of things replaced, so those approaching higher mileage are aware:
Fan bracket bearing: slight noise, but no slop
Idler pulley: lots of noise and slop/play, definitely shot
Tensioner: Seemed fine, no noise or slop
Water pump: Seemed fine, no noise or slop
Alternator: Seemed fine (but theres a special place in hell for the engineer that put this there)
PS pump: tons of bearing slop/play/noise, definitely shot, if anyone is changing the PS pump, you’d be insane to not do alternator at the same time
Serp belt: Appeared fine
Fan clutch: Some minor slop, seems a bit looser/easier to spin than new one
AC clutch, zero noise or slop, left original one in place.
Thermostat: looked brand new, might of been replaced with radiator 100k ago
Notes:
Since I was in there, I decided to replace the PS reservoir just because. Quickly regretted that decision and opened a can of worms. Other than the unholy act of replacing the alternator, the PS lines to the reservoir, although LOOKED perfectly fine, were basically glued to it, and was the most time consuming part of this honestly. Called 3 local dealers, none had either line in stock and this is my daily. So I spent dumb amounts of time carefully getting it all apart.
Lesson here, replace the dang lines and have them on hand!
Another time consuming little thing was the 12mm bolt that holds the hard lines to the block next to the AC clutch was easy to get out, but took damn near an hour, and ziptie redneckery to get it back in. Thinking back and looking at it, just loosening it would of served the same purpose
Was nervous with all the tensioner talk and the Allen bolt, but mine came right out, no issues there.
I’m a big ogre with huge Sasquatch hands and I couldn’t fathom doing all this without removing the radiator. But with the radiator removed, a good selection of extensions, swivels and ratcheting wrenches, this wasn’t all that horrible when all said and done.
Just gotta finish checking torque on everything and put that radiator back in and should be good to go.
Will report back regardless if all goes well or if explodes on the test drive hopefully tomorrow.
Pics in next post, didn’t take many, was a longgg day.
Good news: Zero signs of leakage of seapage anywhere near the valley plate
Bad news (not that bad) some red seapage at both my coolant Tees, so that’s gonna be addressed
Been having a bearing noise/squeal that I was thinking was the PS pump. Based on reading here, I was long overdue for one.
Thanks to @bloc (that PS pump trick was a life saver) @KLF and @TeCKis300 for the advice and tips.
220k miles on the clock. Going through the heap of service records, best I can tell, everything other than the SERP belt was original
Report of the condition of things replaced, so those approaching higher mileage are aware:
Fan bracket bearing: slight noise, but no slop
Idler pulley: lots of noise and slop/play, definitely shot
Tensioner: Seemed fine, no noise or slop
Water pump: Seemed fine, no noise or slop
Alternator: Seemed fine (but theres a special place in hell for the engineer that put this there)
PS pump: tons of bearing slop/play/noise, definitely shot, if anyone is changing the PS pump, you’d be insane to not do alternator at the same time
Serp belt: Appeared fine
Fan clutch: Some minor slop, seems a bit looser/easier to spin than new one
AC clutch, zero noise or slop, left original one in place.
Thermostat: looked brand new, might of been replaced with radiator 100k ago
Notes:
Since I was in there, I decided to replace the PS reservoir just because. Quickly regretted that decision and opened a can of worms. Other than the unholy act of replacing the alternator, the PS lines to the reservoir, although LOOKED perfectly fine, were basically glued to it, and was the most time consuming part of this honestly. Called 3 local dealers, none had either line in stock and this is my daily. So I spent dumb amounts of time carefully getting it all apart.
Lesson here, replace the dang lines and have them on hand!
Another time consuming little thing was the 12mm bolt that holds the hard lines to the block next to the AC clutch was easy to get out, but took damn near an hour, and ziptie redneckery to get it back in. Thinking back and looking at it, just loosening it would of served the same purpose
Was nervous with all the tensioner talk and the Allen bolt, but mine came right out, no issues there.
I’m a big ogre with huge Sasquatch hands and I couldn’t fathom doing all this without removing the radiator. But with the radiator removed, a good selection of extensions, swivels and ratcheting wrenches, this wasn’t all that horrible when all said and done.
Just gotta finish checking torque on everything and put that radiator back in and should be good to go.
Will report back regardless if all goes well or if explodes on the test drive hopefully tomorrow.
Pics in next post, didn’t take many, was a longgg day.
Good news: Zero signs of leakage of seapage anywhere near the valley plate
Bad news (not that bad) some red seapage at both my coolant Tees, so that’s gonna be addressed
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- Thread starter
- #329
- Thread starter
- #330
- Thread starter
- #331
Finished up, double checked all the torque specs, filled coolant and PS fluid and 30 mile test drive.
Soooo much quieter now. Happy Ginger! And now much more piece of mind not waiting for whatever bearing was making the racket to let go and wreak havoc.
One admitted fail is not fully flushing the PS system.
I figured I let enough drain out and completely removed/replaced the resi, I figured that would be close enough.
Nope…. Brand new resi and brand new red fluid was dark brown within 5 mins. Doh!!
Will be following @bloc advice here on this post below for a full flush soon!
Power Steering Fluid - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/power-steering-fluid.1298571/post-14693059
Was a ton of work, but very glad I got it all done and now have much more confidence in long travels without the questions in the back of my mind about things status due to miles
Hard to give this a proper
rating. Majority of my issues and hang ups were due to my size and doing this in my driveway instead of at the shop (friends Hotrod currently occupying our lift).
None of it was particularly hard persay, but time consuming as hell to do properly and makes quite a mess. I’d ballpark, start to finish, working solo, took a total of about 10-11 hours.
Things I’d do differently:
-replace the PS lines to the resi
-replace ALL clamps of hoses removed, which is a lot of them
-fully flush PS system
Soooo much quieter now. Happy Ginger! And now much more piece of mind not waiting for whatever bearing was making the racket to let go and wreak havoc.
One admitted fail is not fully flushing the PS system.
I figured I let enough drain out and completely removed/replaced the resi, I figured that would be close enough.
Nope…. Brand new resi and brand new red fluid was dark brown within 5 mins. Doh!!
Will be following @bloc advice here on this post below for a full flush soon!
Power Steering Fluid - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/power-steering-fluid.1298571/post-14693059
Was a ton of work, but very glad I got it all done and now have much more confidence in long travels without the questions in the back of my mind about things status due to miles
Hard to give this a proper
rating. Majority of my issues and hang ups were due to my size and doing this in my driveway instead of at the shop (friends Hotrod currently occupying our lift).None of it was particularly hard persay, but time consuming as hell to do properly and makes quite a mess. I’d ballpark, start to finish, working solo, took a total of about 10-11 hours.
Things I’d do differently:
-replace the PS lines to the resi
-replace ALL clamps of hoses removed, which is a lot of them
-fully flush PS system
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- Thread starter
- #332
And @bloc had asked about the tensioner condition
The old one, was easy to get back to the pin hole, did it with one hand and a 3/8” ratchet
New one took considerably more effort to get back to pinhole, for whatever that’s worth.
Yes, they wear out, and provide less tension over time for sure.
Same with fan clutch. New one was noticeably harder to turn than the old one. Not 100% sure what this effects, but was definitely noticeable
The old one, was easy to get back to the pin hole, did it with one hand and a 3/8” ratchet
New one took considerably more effort to get back to pinhole, for whatever that’s worth.
Yes, they wear out, and provide less tension over time for sure.
Same with fan clutch. New one was noticeably harder to turn than the old one. Not 100% sure what this effects, but was definitely noticeable
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bloc
SILVER Star
Fan clutch is very position-dependent due to the silicon fluid flowing to different parts of the reservoir or friction plates. To be neutral you’d need to set them both in the same position for probably an hour then test.
Mine didn’t seem appreciably different under these conditions, but it had a bit less mileage than yours does. And they could have seen different uses over their lives too.
The good thing is the little clock spring on the front is effectively a thermostat, so if hypothetically someone’s fluid was losing viscosity the clutch should alter flow and therefore engagement to even things out.
Still, at this mileage, better safe than sorry.
- Thread starter
- #334
bloc
SILVER Star
You’ll probably like this write up then.
Tuning and Understanding your Toyota Viscous Fan Clutch
Landcruiser or Hilux overheating? Your factory fan clutch is probably under-filled and incorrectly set from factory. Fix this first and you may save a lot of time chasing issues. (4 Runner or Tacom…
neuralfibre.com
I haven’t cracked open one of ours yet but had a handful of 80-series and minitruck clutches open for tuning over the years and from the outside ours seem functionally similar only heavier duty.
Fortunately we don’t seem to have any need to alter viscosity or set points.. Toyota figured all that out and ours just work.
- Thread starter
- #336
You’ll probably like this write up then.
Tuning and Understanding your Toyota Viscous Fan Clutch
Landcruiser or Hilux overheating? Your factory fan clutch is probably under-filled and incorrectly set from factory. Fix this first and you may save a lot of time chasing issues. (4 Runner or Tacom…neuralfibre.com
I haven’t cracked open one of ours yet but had a handful of 80-series and minitruck clutches open for tuning over the years and from the outside ours seem functionally similar only heavier duty.
Fortunately we don’t seem to have any need to alter viscosity or set points.. Toyota figured all that out and ours just work.
Thanks.
It’s been awhile but I remember on my 80s, the hot mod was the “blue fan clutch” honestly no idea what that was all about and the hype, but I did it based on others being smarter than me saying it was a good thing. 20ish years ago
- Thread starter
- #337
You’ll probably like this write up then.
Tuning and Understanding your Toyota Viscous Fan Clutch
Landcruiser or Hilux overheating? Your factory fan clutch is probably under-filled and incorrectly set from factory. Fix this first and you may save a lot of time chasing issues. (4 Runner or Tacom…neuralfibre.com
Wow.. kudos to folks that can/do stuff like this
- Thread starter
- #338
Well, got the finishing touches done, and fully flushed the PS fluid. Nice and red resi now.
Steering is smooth as butter with zero noise, like there was before.
I think part of my noise (one of several) was the old broken down fluid. With all the dealer records I have, I’m surprised this was never flushed
I took a slightly different approach.
Mainly because I had 5qts of fluid here, am dead tired from all the wrenching the last few days, and don’t have it in me to take more things apart.
I basically just sucked out the fluid from resi, filled with new, turned lock to lock, drove to parking lot next door and did some circles, and repeated this 4 times until the fluid in the resi was nice and clean red.
Is this wasteful? Yes..
Is this efficient? No..
Is this easy? Absolutely!
Right as I was literally done cleaning up all my mess and reorganizing my piles of tools, this showed up…. Nope, ain’t doing that today
@bloc before I toss it, do you want my old fan clutch for science? Free.99
Steering is smooth as butter with zero noise, like there was before.
I think part of my noise (one of several) was the old broken down fluid. With all the dealer records I have, I’m surprised this was never flushed
I took a slightly different approach.
Mainly because I had 5qts of fluid here, am dead tired from all the wrenching the last few days, and don’t have it in me to take more things apart.
I basically just sucked out the fluid from resi, filled with new, turned lock to lock, drove to parking lot next door and did some circles, and repeated this 4 times until the fluid in the resi was nice and clean red.
Is this wasteful? Yes..
Is this efficient? No..
Is this easy? Absolutely!
Right as I was literally done cleaning up all my mess and reorganizing my piles of tools, this showed up…. Nope, ain’t doing that today
@bloc before I toss it, do you want my old fan clutch for science? Free.99
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Good gawd how is that engine so clean with that high a mileage?!?
