Builds Manglers "Flying Egg" Resto-Build (11 Viewers)

[Boston Mangler]

The front slip joint should see virtually no wear, as both ends of it are attached to parts that barely move during operation.

The rear will definitely see more movement, but the Toyota drivelines I’ve worked with had no noticeable slop.

It really does seem Toyota over-engineered these things and as long as maintenance is done correctly they can see a very long service life.

That said, my front driveshaft didn’t seem to have been greased once in the vehicle’s life before I got it.. approx 100k miles. I started greasing it and monitored. After another 100k it did start vibrating, which is what led to the joint replacement I did a few months ago. The rear wasn’t indicating any problems but I did them while I was in there.. pretty sure you’d understand that decision.

Also you may know this already but in case you don’t, you can remove the front driveshaft and lock the CDL to drive the vehicle while you’re working on replacing those joints. This will disable the VSC and make it pretty squirrelly in scenarios with reduced traction, but buys time to source shim clips or whatever you need. I have even reversed that tactic and driven mine in FWD before for a day..

Thanks

Yeah, i will remove them both and inspect before making any decisions on how to proceed.

I've replaced a fair amount of ujoints over the years, and i dont remember if it was my 80 or my 100, but one of them had the splines so worn it was unrepairable. Guessing was loaded with grease, driven in dusty conditions, and the sand just ate away at the splines.

I am still chasing a VERY slight thud/clunk that is now narrowed down to the shaft ujoints, or the backlash of the 3rd member. Thats all that hasnt been replaced yet. LOL

Good call on the CDL after removing front shaft. Honestly, didnt know about that. Oh maybe i did and forgot. Ha

Never recall shims or such things when replacing ujoints, going to look more into this.

Thanks

 

[Boston Mangler]

More stuff to add to the OEM goodness pile

Huge thanks to Mr @bloc tor the part #s

Most of my parts research digging showed the shaft only available as a complete unit.

This will save me big $

I might buy a 3rd, just in case I booger one up during replacement, it’s been a LONGGG time

Thanks man!

Note: I’ve replaced my fair share of Ujoints and never seen them come like this all separated. Don’t matter, just interesting

 

[TeCKis300]

More stuff to add to the OEM goodness pile

Huge thanks to Mr @bloc tor the part #s

Most of my parts research digging showed the shaft only available as a complete unit.

This will save me big $

I might buy a 3rd, just in case I booger one up during replacement, it’s been a LONGGG time

Thanks man!

Note: I’ve replaced my fair share of Ujoints and never seen them come like this all separated. Don’t matter, just interesting

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It'll be interesting to see how much wear you see in thr current parts. If any? Probably depends on the type of use cases it's been through, and if they've ever been greased.

The 3rd members in these are incredibly robust and I have a hard time to get think it may be that.

 

[bloc]

Generally the wear in our u-joints can be measured with a dial indicator seeing how much back and forth play in each axis along a pair of caps on the joint. This is the 0.000mm spec I cited. I guess their thought is if it wears excessively here, which is just metal sliding on metal, then the needle-bearing surface doesn’t even matter anymore. The shaft will have runout and you’ll have to get it repaired anyway.

@TeCKis300 from memory approaching 200k miles I had about .006” for context.

@Boston Mangler be sure you familiarize yourself with the FSM procedure. Them being disassembled is not on accident. Also note the caps are already greased. When you stab the last one there will be air trapped in the cross and this forces more grease out of the last cap than the others. If you remove the zerk to let the air displace the spillage and unevenness will be prevented. Which brings up, it is critical that you note which directions the zerks point on your existing shaft before disassembly. If you get that wrong you won’t be able to grease that joint.

I can dig up the part numbers for the shim clips too if you need. A good place to start is with your existing clips, use a micrometer to measure the thickness after cleaning and fine sanding to remove the burrs. Technically they have markings on them from the factory but yours will be long gone. And note that the clips that come with the joints are the thinnest available, they aren’t intended for final setup, just as place holders.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Generally the wear in our u-joints can be measured with a dial indicator seeing how much back and forth play in each axis along a pair of caps on the joint. This is the 0.000mm spec I cited. I guess their thought is if it wears excessively here, which is just metal sliding on metal, then the needle-bearing surface doesn’t even matter anymore. The shaft will have runout and you’ll have to get it repaired anyway.

@TeCKis300 from memory approaching 200k miles I had about .006” for context.

@Boston Mangler be sure you familiarize yourself with the FSM procedure. Them being disassembled is not on accident. Also note the caps are already greased. When you stab the last one there will be air trapped in the cross and this forces more grease out of the last cap than the others. If you remove the zerk to let the air displace the spillage and unevenness will be prevented. Which brings up, it is critical that you note which directions the zerks point on your existing shaft before disassembly. If you get that wrong you won’t be able to grease that joint.

I can dig up the part numbers for the shim clips too if you need. A good place to start is with your existing clips, use a micrometer to measure the thickness after cleaning and fine sanding to remove the burrs. Technically they have markings on them from the factory but yours will be long gone. And note that the clips that come with the joints are the thinnest available, they aren’t intended for final setup, just as place holders.

Awesome info!

Thank you sir!

 

[Boston Mangler]

It'll be interesting to see how much wear you see in thr current parts. If any? Probably depends on the type of use cases it's been through, and if they've ever been greased.

The 3rd members in these are incredibly robust and I have a hard time to get think it may be that.

I am very very curious about this as well and will post results when I get it apart

 

[TeCKis300]

I am very very curious about this as well and will post results when I get it apart

I'm taking notes of what I need to R&R with 175k. It all still feels tight. But rear upper suspension arms are high on my list.

 

[Boston Mangler]

I'm taking notes of what I need to R&R with 175k. It all still feels tight. Bug rear upper suspension arms are high on my list.

Roger that. I’ll put together some more notes

Might as well do all the rear arms and track bar at the same time.

They’re all fairly inexpensive, and it’s definitely a “while you’re in there” type of thing

 

[bloc]

Roger that. I’ll put together some more notes

Might as well do all the rear arms and track bar at the same time.

They’re all fairly inexpensive, and it’s definitely a “while you’re in there” type of thing

This thing is gonna be minty fresh.

 

[Boston Mangler]

This thing is gonna be minty fresh.

That’s the goal.

I love it!

But I’m going to love it a lot more once I get the Scheelmans in!

Man I hate the stock seats

 

[Boston Mangler]

The 3rd members in these are incredibly robust and I have a hard time to get think it may be that.

Just noticed this.

To clarify, when i mentioned "I might buy a 3rd" i meant a 3rd ujoint, not a 3rd member.

They can be a bit finicky and likely best to have a spare anyway

 

[Boston Mangler]

Well…

Getting ready to start on sleeping platform (really itching to get this thing to local desert) and removing the 60 portion of the 60/40 seat

I used the dongle from:

Airbag Simulator/Emulator for Toyota & Lexus - Brad's Hacks - https://bradshacks.com/product/airbag-simulator/

And it was a uber simple, plug and play, tested and no light.

So much room for activities!

Completely baffled at how much the 2nd row rear seat weighs. Got to be close to 100lbs, if not more

 

[Boston Mangler]

Got the lift gate button/handle kit from Cruiser Outfitters so I can open it from inside (for us poors that don’t have electric lift gate)

Looks like a bit more work than I felt like doing today, so that will be put off for a little but, nut nice complete OEM quality kit!

 

[Boston Mangler]

We are high tech over here at The Ginger Motorsports facility.

Sleep platform, storage, power bay in progress, but have changed my mind 50x on the layout. Standby

 

[Boston Mangler]

Last piece of the front of motor refresh finally arrived.

I’ve replaced several AC Clutches over the years, but this is definitely the first one that arrived in pieces. Not familiar with this, so some google fu and FSM reading will be in the near future

Any tips (just for a second to see how it feels), feel free to holla

 

[KLF]

We are high tech over here at The Ginger Motorsports facility.

Sleep platform, storage, power bay in progress, but have changed my mind 50x on the layout. Standby

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I'm very versed in AutoCAD, but I still do all my woodworking designs on grid paper with pencil, then make cardboard templates. I still have a big pile of those plastic templates. But honestly I rarely use a straightedge when doing sketches.

CAD = Cardboard Aided Design

 

[Boston Mangler]

I'm very versed in AutoCAD, but I still do all my woodworking designs on grid paper with pencil, then make cardboard templates.

CAD = Cardboard Aided Design

Yessir. 100% the same here

Wife always bitching I don’t throw out big cardboard boxes…

“They’re for the next thing I’m designing ”

 

[Boston Mangler]

Big thanks and shout out to that @bloc fella

Digging into FSM about AC clutch replacement, shows a bunch of clips and spacers. Weren’t included with clutch.

Not easily found when looking at online parts diagrams

Quick search here revealed a common theme

Mr @bloc posted this in a previous thread and was exactly what I needed! Ordered new bolt, both clips and washers/spacers

Thank you sir for your part # wizardry and helping others

 

[Boston Mangler]

@TeCKis300 tagged me in something regarding new OEM bits, so to show my appreciation, I ordered more and they just arrived.

My stock lights are the poor folks halogens and yellowing bad, they were sanded and cleaned up when I got it and already back to ghetto yellow.

Compromised lighting is OBVIOUSLY a Safety issue, so to protect my loved one, a lighting upgrade was paramount for “Safety Reasons”, that’s my story, and I’m sticking to it

2013+ HID Conversion is going down soon

Wasn’t sure exactly what was included, but happy to see the leveling motor and all that related stuff, as well as the harness is all included with the housing.

I’ll be trying out this harness and will report back results:

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[Boston Mangler]

Halogen to Xeon Headlight conversion harness finally showed up.

Never know what you’re gonna get on eBay, so I didn’t have expectations really, and was expecting to just use the plugs and terminals and rewire it to my liking.

But, I’m quite impressed with the quality and finish work on this.

Will see…