Builds Manglers "Flying Egg" Resto-Build

[Itsky]

A few people have asked for various part #s

Parts List:

Part	Part #	Price (Olath Toyota)
Lower Control Arm Right	48068-60030	303.85
Lower Control Arm Left	48069-60030	303.85
Upper Control Arm Right	48610-60060	288.1
Upper Control Arm Left	48630-60030	288.1
Rear Upper Control Arm Left	48710-60150	143.95
Rear Upper Control Arm Right	48710-60140	143.95
Rear Lower Control Arm Same	48720-60070	184.03
Rear Lower Control Arm Same	48720-60070	184.03
Stabilzer Link Left	48810-60060	105.6
Stabilzer Link Right	48820-60082	91.44
Trackbar	48740-60150	159.92
Cam Adjuster (2)	48409-0C020 (2)	48.84
Cam Adjuster (2)	48190-0C020 (2)	65.5
Stabilizer Bushing (Sway Bar) Rear (2)	48815-60221	21.98
Stabilizer Bushing (Sway Bar) Front (2)	48815-60260	25.97
Stabilizer Cushion (Sway Bar) Rear (2)	48817-60010	10.16
DBA Front Rotors (fronts are different for 2016+) (2)	DBA4722S	257.18
DBA Rear Rotors (2)	DBA-42723S	204.82
Hawk LTS Pads Front	HWKHB589Y.704	121.00
Hawk LTS Pads Rear	HWKHB590Y.682	89.00

Thank you very much for posting this list!

I now have 165k on the ODO, with the last 85K where with an OME lift and SPC UCAs. I'm in need of maintenance, so appreciate this information. It so happens that my SPC UCAs are shot, the bushing and the balljoints are in really poor shape. I'm considering going with stock UCAs as you did, I'm thinking they will last longer. Did you have any trouble getting a decent alignment with stock UCAs after your lift? If so, I think I'll go the stock route. Thanks!

 

[Boston Mangler]

Thank you very much for posting this list!

I now have 165k on the ODO, with the last 85K where with an OME lift and SPC UCAs. I'm in need of maintenance, so appreciate this information. It so happens that my SPC UCAs are shot, the bushing and the balljoints are in really poor shape. I'm considering going with stock UCAs as you did, I'm thinking they will last longer. Did you have any trouble getting a decent alignment with stock UCAs after your lift? If so, I think I'll go the stock route. Thanks!

No problemo! Happy to help.

Ironically, I had SPC UCAs on my Tundra that I was less than impressed with for the same reasons you mentioned, which is why I kept it stock this time.

My SPCs lasted about 35-40k-ish and the OEM uppers I just took off with 215k were in better shape. So yeah. Nothing ever beats OEM longevity.

Yes, alignment is perfect on 3rd clip (1.75”) with the Bilsteins. Drives better than my Tundra ever did

 

[Itsky]

No problemo! Happy to help.

Ironically, I had SPC UCAs on my Tundra that I was less than impressed with for the same reasons you mentioned, which is why I kept it stock this time.

My SPCs lasted about 35-40k-ish and thes OEM upper I just took off with 215k were in better shape. So yeah. Nothing ever beats OEM longevity.

Yes, alignment is perfect on 3rd clip (1.75”) with the Bilsteins. Drives better than my Tundra ever did

I may be posting a resto-mod build thread of my own after 6-7 of ownership.

I'm really pumped on this thread - many thanks!

 

[Boston Mangler]

I may be posting a resto-mod build thread of my own after 6-7 of ownership.

I'm really pumped on this thread - many thanks!

I Look forward to following along!

 

[Boston Mangler]

Christmas came early here…

Phase 2 of the resto gonna be starting soon:

Tagging @TeCKis300 again to bring him some OEM goodness cheer, cause he loves him some OEM goodness

 

[32cls6speedmt]

@Boston Mangler where did you order from?

 

[Boston Mangler]

@Boston Mangler where did you order from?

Olathe Toyota in Kansas

I’ve ordered EVERYTHANG from them, always the lowest prices and shipping is decent, not the fastest shipping, but always very well packed and eventually shows up

If you’re in a rush though, not the best place

I’m in zero rush on any of this

 

[TeCKis300]

Olathe Toyota in Kansas

I’ve ordered EVERYTHANG from them, always the lowest prices and shipping is decent, not the fastest shipping, but always very well packed and eventually shows up

If you’re in a rush though, not the best place

I’m in zero rush on any of this

You might have the newest LC based on internal mechanical freshness at this point. Last phase thing might become the frame. And not sure I'd put that beyond you to take on.

 

[Boston Mangler]

You might have the newest LC based on internal mechanical freshness at this point. Last phase thing might become the frame. And not sure I'd put that beyond you to take on.

Hahahaha! Thanks!

I am doing it this way for a few reasons:

1) I truly still do enjoy wrenching, and prefer it on my own terms, not a trail break/failure. "An ounce of prevention saves a pound of headache"

2) Best way to learn your vehicle is at your own leisure, not on the trail, this kills 2 birds, one stone, i will know the vehicle inside and out when im done.

3) This 200 group seems COMICALLY HYPERFIXATED on MILEAGE MILEAGE MILEAGE, moreso than any other forum ive ever been on. I am trying to show some of these "mileage worshippers" Its a non issue if you have basic mechanic skills. In a couple months when i am done the next phase, ill happily put mine side by side ANY low mileage heritage or whatever to compare notes, tightness, and ride quality. Point of all this, is when all said and done and resto-ed, i still wont even be into this $40k, and it will be in mechanically better condition than most all of them on the road. So yeah...

Frame on this one is mint, so that will not be touched.

Slee Sliders and OEM Driveshafts are next up on the list, and then the OEM 2013+ headlight conversion...

Ooooo Eeeeee

Merry Christmas

 

[dudemancool1904]

Hahahaha! Thanks!

I am doing it this way for a few reasons:

1) I truly still do enjoy wrenching, and prefer it on my own terms, not a trail break/failure. "An ounce of prevention saves a pound of headache"

2) Best way to learn your vehicle is at your own leisure, not on the trail, this kills 2 birds, one stone, i will know the vehicle inside and out when im done.

3) This 200 group seems COMICALLY HYPERFIXATED on MILEAGE MILEAGE MILEAGE, moreso than any other forum ive ever been on. I am trying to show some of these "mileage worshippers" Its a non issue if you have basic mechanic skills. In a couple months when i am done the next phase, ill happily put mine side by side ANY low mileage heritage or whatever to compare notes, tightness, and ride quality. Point of all this, is when all said and done and resto-ed, i still wont even be into this $40k, and it will be in mechanically better condition than most all of them on the road. So yeah...

Frame on this one is mint, so that will not be touched.

Slee Sliders and OEM Driveshafts are next up on the list, and then the OEM 2013+ headlight conversion...

Ooooo Eeeeee

Merry Christmas

I put 12k miles on my truck since buying it in June

 

[Boston Mangler]

I put 12k miles on my truck since buying it in June

That’s the spirit

 

[bloc]

and OEM Driveshafts are next up on the list, and then the OEM 2013+ headlight conversion...

Ooooo Eeeeee

Merry Christmas

If you really like wrenching the joints in the driveshafts are changeable for about one sixth of the cost. It makes the parking brake adjustment seem pedestrian though, in terms of finickyness.

Not sure if that information was a good Christmas gift though..

It’s the thought that counts, right?

 

[Boston Mangler]

If you really like wrenching the joints in the driveshafts are changeable for about one sixth of the cost. It makes the parking brake adjustment seem pedestrian though, in terms of finickyness.

Not sure if that information was a good Christmas gift though..

It’s the thought that counts, right?

Hahahaha

Thanks. Yeah, I’ve replaced U joints before and have the tool. It’s not a good time

I got about a 75/25 success rate doing it right the first time and not dropping and crushing a needle bearing that slipped into the cap. LOL

I could be losing my mind, but I could have sworn the joints were NOT available separately from Toyota. Are they?

Having grenaded various aftermarket u-joints in the past, this will definitely be an OEM only part when I swap them.

Granted, I’ve came to the conclusion that in my older age, that I am in fact NOT Ivan Stewart, so I won’t be putting the level of abuse on them that i used to, but still….

 

[bloc]

I could be losing my mind, but I could have sworn the joints were NOT available separately from Toyota. Are they?

Having grenaded various aftermarket u-joints in the past, this will definitely be an OEM only part when I swap them.

Granted, I’ve came to the conclusion that in my older age, that I am in fact NOT Ivan Stewart, so I won’t be putting the level of abuse on them that i used to, but still….

They are 04371-60070 and the same part number front and rear. Anyone else coming along note that 16+ is a different number.

The hard part is you must also order shims/clips as you can’t assume your existing ones will be correct for the new joints. Those are not quickly available.. @OGBeno or @cruiserdan may have something to say about this but the last time I tried to get them on an expedited basis I was told the total number ordered in the whole US per year is in the few dozen range.

Your concerns with needle bearings are valid.. there are some tricks though, namely the specific order the caps are pushed in and doing so incrementally.

And absolutely, Genuine Toyota only. I helped a friend put a spicer joint into his Tacoma and they put the stupid grease zerk in the middle of one of the caps. Which snapped off as soon as he made it to a trail.

I’ll try to dig up a video for reference.

 

[Boston Mangler]

They are 04371-60070 and the same part number front and rear. Anyone else coming along note that 16+ is a different number.

The hard part is you must also order shims/clips as you can’t assume your existing ones will be correct for the new joints. Those are not quickly available.. @OGBeno or @cruiserdan may have something to say about this but the last time I tried to get them on an expedited basis I was told the total number ordered in the whole US per year is in the few dozen range.

Your concerns with needle bearings are valid.. there are some tricks though, namely the specific order the caps are pushed in and doing so incrementally.

And absolutely, Genuine Toyota only. I helped a friend put a spicer joint into his Tacoma and they put the stupid grease zerk in the middle of one of the caps. Which snapped off as soon as he made it to a trail.

I’ll try to dig up a video for reference.

Oooh…. Thank you!!!!!

I might try to find a used shaft on eBay for cheap and just rebuild it myself and get it balanced locally (I have a hookup)

And YES, that is EXACTLY the joint I was talking about, the spicer with the zerk in the center. Quick Kaboom

 

[bloc]

Oooh…. Thank you!!!!!

I might try to find a used shaft on eBay for cheap and just rebuild it myself and get it balanced locally (I have a hookup)

And YES, that is EXACTLY the joint I was talking about, the spicer with the zerk in the center. Quick Kaboom

Typically if Toyota shafts are assembled correctly they won’t need balancing. Imbalance usually comes with incorrect shim clips (the ones that come with the joint are thin and only intended to be place holders, most installers don’t know this) that allow too much runout and obviously that’ll lead to issues.

The shims come in .01-.03mm increments, with the allowed runout after assembly being a nice even 0.00mm. As I said.. finicky.

Not that balancing would hurt. And that would verify a bent driveline.. but then you had done all the work to one that wasn’t healthy.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Typically if Toyota shafts are assembled correctly they won’t need balancing. Imbalance usually comes with incorrect shim clips (the ones that come with the joint are thin and only intended to be place holders, most installers don’t know this) that allow too much runout and obviously that’ll lead to issues.

The shims come in .01-.03mm increments, with the allowed runout after assembly being a nice even 0.00mm. As I said.. finicky.

Not that balancing would hurt. And that would verify a bent driveline.. but then you had done all the work to one that wasn’t healthy.

Yeah, we will disagree on this one sir.

I don’t subscribe to the “in theory” mechanical philosophy

Tires are round, rims are round, when tires are replaced, they need to be balanced.

Same principle (on smaller, not as obvious scale)

 

[bloc]

Yeah, we will disagree on this one sir.

I don’t subscribe to the “in theory” mechanical philosophy

Tires are round, rims are round, when tires are replaced, they need to be balanced.

Same principle (on smaller, not as obvious scale)

That’s fair, I’m just going on experience. I’ve replaced joints in six Toyota shafts to date and other than the single 80-series shaft that was twisted, no balancing was needed in those cases.

Also note that doing the joints at all you are kindof off in the deep end, metaphorically. Most people don’t do this job. Even well-respected shops usually don’t consider it worth their time.. I’ve had a lot of blank stares when trying to explain to parts counter guys why I can’t just use the thin clips that come with the joints (as specified in the FSM).

 

[Boston Mangler]

Also note that doing the joints at all you are kindof off in the deep end, metaphorically. Most people don’t do this job.

You new here? I’ve been off the deep end for a long time sir….

Most people don’t do a lot of things…

When I replaced all my rear control arms and all related rubber bits, got a ton of replies along the lines of “I don’t see that mentioned here, but it sounds like a good idea”. Ummm what?

That’s the internet herd mentality

Everyone here specifically seems hyper fixated on what size tire they can fit, or trading in their rig for one with 10k less miles because their wife has some random reason or another, all the while neglecting what I’d consider common wear item maintenance

Me, im over here thinking about what wears out, and replacing it

As for the driveshaft. The splines of the slip portion are most definitely a wear item as well

So that also comes into factor, as well as the ujoints

I admittedly haven’t checked my ujoints, or the splines on mine, just thinking out loud

 

[bloc]

The front slip joint should see virtually no wear, as both ends of it are attached to parts that barely move during operation.

The rear will definitely see more movement, but the Toyota drivelines I’ve worked with had no noticeable slop.

It really does seem Toyota over-engineered these things and as long as maintenance is done correctly they can see a very long service life.

That said, my front driveshaft didn’t seem to have been greased once in the vehicle’s life before I got it.. approx 100k miles. I started greasing it and monitored. After another 100k it did start vibrating, which is what led to the joint replacement I did a few months ago. The rear wasn’t indicating any problems but I did them while I was in there.. pretty sure you’d understand that decision.

Also you may know this already but in case you don’t, you can remove the front driveshaft and lock the CDL to drive the vehicle while you’re working on replacing those joints. This will disable the VSC and make it pretty squirrelly in scenarios with reduced traction, but buys time to source shim clips or whatever you need. I have even reversed that tactic and driven mine in FWD before for a day..