Man-a-fre disc brake conversion (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I have a mint set of drum warn hubs, will let it go for cheap if you want to bling it a bit :)

I'll have a totally trail proven (is 8 years of wheeling and 10 Moabs enough ?) set of Warn hubs for a coarse spline axle and a full set of spares for sale, too, soonish . . . I think . . .

PM if you have an interest
 
and, I didn't mangle any of those, honestly ;p
 
I also know that you can swap inner course fine spline gears in the warn hub for the later fine spline ones... so long as the hub body is the same length (short vs long).
 
Have you completed the install? I had quite a few issues with my MAF kit. I had non-stock hubs with non-stock studs which didn't fit the rotor so it wasn't all them. Another issue is that the directions you can't read are OLD and for the "sided" kit. Look at the caliper mount brackets when mounted at 10 o'clock as instructed. The bolt you put in to hold the calipers is obstructed by the hub bolt and nut behind it. THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE WRONG!! You need to install the mounting bracket level, not angled. And if you have the same rims I have, you will also need spacers. And be careful ordering spacers as the manufacturers don't include the hole size in their specs. So, check the size to make sure they fit over your hub. And when you bleed the brakes per Willwood instructions, they say to bleed the lower valve so you need to loosen them up to bleed them.
 
Have you completed the install? I had quite a few issues with my MAF kit. I had non-stock hubs with non-stock studs which didn't fit the rotor so it wasn't all them. Another issue is that the directions you can't read are OLD and for the "sided" kit. Look at the caliper mount brackets when mounted at 10 o'clock as instructed. The bolt you put in to hold the calipers is obstructed by the hub bolt and nut behind it. THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE WRONG!! You need to install the mounting bracket level, not angled. And if you have the same rims I have, you will also need spacers. And be careful ordering spacers as the manufacturers don't include the hole size in their specs. So, check the size to make sure they fit over your hub. And when you bleed the brakes per Willwood instructions, they say to bleed the lower valve so you need to loosen them up to bleed them.

Finished mechanically but need to start the brake lines.
Yea, I wonder what was up with your hubs???
Regarding the caliper at 10 o'clock, I figured I just had to use a short arm hex-key wrench (Allen wrench) to clear the steering arm nuts.
Did you mount your caliper at 8-9 o'clock?
Thanks

image-3537119396.jpg
image-3537119396.jpg
 
Last edited:
I just put some on my '72 and everything went on without a problem. Maybe I just got lucky - in my experience, nothing bolt-on is truly bolt-on
 
Mechanically done with the install now on to the hydraulics. It's been so long since I stripped the drum brakes I don't remember how the line routed but I tried.
1) line from master cylinder to passenger wheel


image-2920787393.jpg



image-3011876858.jpg



image-3421666335.jpg



2) line from master cylinder to driver wheel


image-1093294030.jpg

More photos to come.
image-2920787393.jpg
image-3011876858.jpg
image-1093294030.jpg
image-3421666335.jpg
 
Seems wierd to see the lines running that way. In 74, one flex line ran to a T on the axle, on the drivers side, then a hard line ran to each side, and then two short flex lines... seems less likely to get ripped off that way.
 
Seems wierd to see the lines running that way. In 74, one flex line ran to a T on the axle, on the drivers side, then a hard line ran to each side, and then two short flex lines... seems less likely to get ripped off that way.

The lines pretty much follow the factory lines in '67 w/drums. See now I thought about putting the line on the axle with a tee but thought better not for the front since it gets the brunt of trail debris.
 
I just put some on my '72 and everything went on without a problem. Maybe I just got lucky

no, the kit goes on easy - bolt on

as far as which angle to mount the caliper: you want to mount it so that the bleeder valve is at the highest point possible, not at the bottom - if I remember correctly (it was 8 years ago), there is only one way this will be achieved

granted, the instructions are not the best and I first had the studs pressed through the rotors the wrong way myself :rolleyes:

the kit already comes with a spacer, you shouldn't need another one with correctly backspaced wheels (3.5 inches) - at least not on a '72

I suggest to the OP to contact Man-a-Fre - they should help you as far as an earlier model is concerned

or, post more pics that better explain what your problem really is
 
I suggest to the OP to contact Man-a-Fre - they should help you as far as an earlier model is concerned

or, post more pics that better explain what your problem really is

Who is "OP"?

Questioned answered 5/4. I thought "Original poster"

DSRTRDR
I'm all good now, no more issues... at least with my 40!
 
Last edited:
Gosh. The all-Toyota, find your own parts, bolt it together, front disc brakes conversion looks better and better.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom