Disc brake conversion (1 Viewer)

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Feb 18, 2012
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OK so the time is finally come for me to pull the trigger on one of my 40’s. I’ve decided that starting this spring I am going to take the top off one of mine and daily Drive. It is definitely not a long commute to work and well to be honest the cruiser would sit in the parking lot for well over nine hours.

However, I am tired of pumping the brakes! I am going to start with the front end. My question is has anyone experienced the conversion kit purchased from JT outfitters? Are there any opinions pro or con? Any other options? Thanks in advance.

IMG_9498.jpeg
 
If it were me, I’d get it all from @cruiseroutfit cruiserteq.com.

You’ll know it’s quality stuff and you’ll have a support system if things go awry.

My truck came with disc brakes so I can’t offer anything more than the above.
 
My diatribe on donor parts for the disc brake conversion
 
x300 on using Toyota parts, the JT kits works, I know cause I put one on, however it requires modification and IMO the drums work just as good when properly set up. Kurt or Georg for this kit.
 
I use the Monte Carlo brake set up on my 68. The only thing I got from JT were the front and Rear adaptor plates and the 3 bolt to 4 bolt Master Cylinder adaptor….I don’t think the adaptors come from JT anyway, they just resell someone else’s product. Everything else came from Summit, WillWood, Amazon and CARid. And the braided hoses came from Classic Tube.
I also installed longer wheel studs to ensure the rotor thickness did not interfere with lug nut engagement, these were Milesian, and from E-Bay…just not a lot of optional lengths for 12 mm studs.
A couple of things to remember is that the front and rear axle flanges will need to be turned down to allow the Chevy rotors to fit correctly and the rear caliper mounting plates may require some milling work to ensure the calipers center correctly on the rotors.
I do NOT run power brakes but use WillWood D154 BP10 pads. Theses give you a good solid feel and unlike drums…do not fade when hot or when wet. My setup uses a Toyota T100, 1” master cylinder with a simple a proportioning valve to the rear circuit and 2 PSI residual check valves in both the front and rear circuits. If you go this rout, you definitely need the the proportioning valve AND the residual check valves….keeps the pedal high and tight and keeps the back end from passing the front end when you ‘Stand’ on the breaks.
I won’t lie to you, without power assist, you need some leg to get her to Lock Up, but I find non-power gives better feedback through the peddle.
I got the rotors from Summit….intended for 89 K1500 Chevy 4WD front brakes, I got the Calipers from CARid….GM metric calipers for 78 and newer mid size Chevy’s. Everything else…as listed above.
Have Fun, you will have no regrets going to disks…

Rear adaptor plates before and after.
Calipers Marked for Machining.jpeg

Calipers Machined.jpeg


Residual valves (blue things)
Check Valves Installed.jpeg


Proportioning Valve (Black, mounted to right of T100 master cylinder.

Prop Valve Installed.jpeg
 
I have the mini truck knuckles, ifs calipers and a vented disc(fj60?) up front. Low maintenance and they line up perfectly. I can’t comment one the JTO kit, but the Toyota stuff works great. Even better after I got a working booster!! For true low maintenance swap the rear brakes to @Poser rear kit.
 
Get the upgraded axles Kurt talks about in his post. You might get lucky on the axles and find a later model set (1/79 or later) with the better gear ratio (3.70) if this is going to mainly be a highway Cruiser? I would swap the thirds around in any used axles I got. Front to rear and rear to front.

Then if you’re wanting rear disc brakes this is the go to: TOYOTA TRUCK AND LAND CRUISER REAR DISC BRAKES - https://www.tsmmfg.net/toyota-truck-land-cruiser-complete-rear-disc-brake-kits.html
Buy them thru Kurt since he was kind enough to post here and make the informative axle post previously!
 

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