man-a-fre auxillary tank question? (1 Viewer)

[wantatlc]

hi50phd - I just use an aftermarket one (sending unit and gauge) from JC Whitney (124229 FUEL LEVEL GAUGE WITH FLOAT) on my main tank. there are posts here about it and it works awesome. very accurate I have found. if my aux tank has this hole ready for a sending unit, I will be adding one to this tank as well when I pull it off to clean it. Did not realize some have the sending unit hole and some do not, so I will not know until I take mine off to clean. I was hoping they were all the same and I could find out if they had one, I would order it and get it on its way. But now, seems I need to take it off to find out.

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ducktapeguy - mine has very long bolts going through the tank as you describe. BUT, mine has 4 bolts, not 3. it mounts to the body floor, not the frame IIRC

Ugly, dirty, but works. when I pull it to clean it, I will sand it all down and paint it as well.

 

[greenfox]

That's the tank I have and I was worried that it would get ripped out by a rock. So I made some brackets out of angle iron and welded the angle iron to the tank. Then I bolted it to the frame for a more solid mount so I use a skid plate for the tank.

 

[ducktapeguy]

wantatlc,

Thanks for the pics. Mine looks almost exactly like that, but I guess all of them are probably that shape. Have you noticed any problems with the bolts warping the floor with all that weight? Since mine's out of the car right now I'm thinking of doing the same thing greenfox did, or I might make up some heavy duty tank straps to support it like a jeep tank.

Where in Socal are you located? I'll be interested in learning how you set everything up once you're finished.

 

[wantatlc]

ducktape -

Mine seems fine on warping the floor. All there are are LARGE fender washer (above and below) spreading the weight across the floor. I notice no ill effects above or below the body. BUT, after looking at greenfoxes setup, I suspect (as I always seem to modify my stuff) that when I take this out to clean it out, paint it up, I will get some simple angle iron and add some reinforcement as well. not that I really need it, but m0re becuase if it is out.... that is an easy project for me so WTF?

BTW, I am up in North County..... I have a prety full Aux tank, but after all of this, I am going to start drawing from it and run it dry and do the job ASAP as I can still run off the main (then swap and run off the aux while the main is done). I called a few radi places today and range seems to be $100-180 to clean, prep, line a gas tank locally. I thought of doing it myself, but this seems to be a lot of toxic crap (cleaner, liner, etc.) and I have no means of disposing of it, so it is a project I must pay to have done.

 

[wantatlc]

BTW, are you guys running an auxillary electric pump as well? is that a standard for these? I have a small one mounted on the frame rail and a toggle on the dash for when I switch to the aux tank (via a mini stick shift right in front of the gear shift on the floor board - hidden right under the cup holder on my tuffy center console).

 

[jhaha]

I run an electric fuel pump. Mine is also held up by straps, not bolts. How do you all have these things vented? (the aux tank that is)

 

[ducktapeguy]

I run an electric fuel pump. Mine is also held up by straps, not bolts. How do you all have these things vented? (the aux tank that is)

Are you talking an external in-line fuel pump or an in tank pump? I've been searching the different setups, seems like a lot of people go with an external pump mounted on the frame rails.

I was thinking of picking up an intank pump and using it to transfer fuel to the main tank, instead of drawing directly out of the auxiliary. Thought maybe it would balance the weight of the vehicle better?

 

[4x4Poet]

IMO, the bolt thru the bed tanks aren't worth restoring unless fabbed to be frame mounted. Besides, until that pic of NWMP tank, I didn't realize they made a "pocket" or indentation to allow more room for the pumpkin. I wonder if there is room to relocate rear spring center pins an inch or so rearward without the axle housing striking NWMP's aux tank.

I'm not sure if this will help the discussion, but I've been using a Fuel Selector Switch Valve with my Con-Fer tank for decades. I'm not sure about MAF's offerings, but mine switches both the fuel tank and the sender with one toggle. Instant switch, too, so I can wait until I feel the engine running out of gas and quickly hit it. Freaks out new passengers, just the same, though.

 

[Vortec_Cruiser]

There have been several variations of this 22-gallon tank made by Conferr, Aero Tank (Corona, CA), and who knows what other manufacturers. Most are made of steel, but I did have one that was aluminum. The later versions of this tank have a 45 degree, bottom rear edge, instead of the previous 90 degree edge.

Installation has been 2, 3, & 4 thru-bolts, while others have used two belly straps or edge-welded angle iron. All have seemed to hold satisfactorily. With the thru-bolts, I have used 4" x 4" x 3/32" steel backing plates on the floor of the Cruiser for added strength.

As far as the sending unit is concerned - some tanks have them and others don't, but it's easy to install. The best switching valve is the Pollak fuel tank selector valve # ZX812705U – J.C. Whitney @ $80. It switches from tank-to-tank, and at the same time switches to the correct tank sender. It also has a fuel return line, which sends fuel back to the correct tank.

 

[wantatlc]

ducktape -

seems like external pump on frame rail is much better way. easier repair & replace access if the pump craps out and you just need to change the pump.

my setup is as follows:

aux tank, facilitated by an electrical pump on frame rail, goes to a simple hand MECHANICAL operated switch/shift lever (like a gear shift knob) and then to fuel line into engine. The main tank comes into this same switch and then into that same fuel line that feeds engine. Mine does NOT just fill the main tank... when I flip the handle to change tanks, it by passes the main tank and goes right into the fuel line to the engine.

My gas cap is located on the passenger side. I will shoot some photos of the switch, gas cap filler neck area and electrical pump location later and post up.

 

[Vortec_Cruiser]

IMO, the bolt thru the bed tanks aren't worth restoring...

Why do you say that? I have seen dozens of these that have been installed for 10-20 years, and not one has failed.

 

[wantatlc]

IMO, the bolt thru the bed tanks aren't worth restoring unless fabbed to be frame mounted.

hmmmm..... at $600-800 for just a new aux tank.... I have no problem restoring it. it is not a vital piece (just a bonus piece) so does not warrant me spending that kind of money to just toss it and buy a new one.

 

[greenfox]

Oh yeah the venting part, this what I did. i went to the junk yard and picked up a 83 chev pickup filler neck with the screw on cap. Than a 1980 toyota pickup filler hose went down to a utility bed shop and bught the recessed filler neck assembly.

 

[4x4Poet]

... The best switching valve is the Pollak fuel tank selector valve # ZX812705U – J.C. Whitney @ $80. It switches from tank-to-tank, and at the same time switches to the correct tank sender. It also has a fuel return line, which sends fuel back to the correct tank.

That's the one I have. I have a spare buried somewhere with my spare parts. I couldn't remember the mfr name.

Although I don't think the Pollak valve is fuel injection pressure capable (60psi) like one of the MAF valves is. I know mine isn't, anyway.

 

[4x4Poet]

Why do you say that? I have seen dozens of these that have been installed for 10-20 years, and not one has failed.

Mounting through the body and not the frame concerns me in case of an accident. Where is that tank going to go if rear-ended with only sheetmetal holding it to the FJ40?

 

[4x4Poet]

hmmmm..... at $600-800 for just a new aux tank.... I have no problem restoring it. it is not a vital piece (just a bonus piece) so does not warrant me spending that kind of money to just toss it and buy a new one.

I agree as long as you also weld on some frame mounts once you have the tank acid cleaned. Like pictured in a previous post by a wise man, IMO.

It wouldn't add much to the restoration cost even if the welding was done professionally. Finding, cutting, and drilling angle iron and then drilling the frame is even easier.

 

[wantatlc]

here is a photo montage:

switch handle in cab - tubing/switching device up to switch handle under floor board under cabin - electrical pump mount on frame rail and the fuel shut off valve (see those here) coming off aux tank.

did not include one of the power pump toggle on the dash (which can be seen here) or the modified neck and vent setup which can be seen here in depth

 

[Vortec_Cruiser]

Mounting through the body and not the frame concerns me in case of an accident. Where is that tank going to go if rear-ended with only sheetmetal holding it to the FJ40?

It's still between the frame rails, but that could be a consideration. Though, I don't think it would be like a Pinto.

 

[4x4Poet]

Oh yeah the venting part, this what I did. i went to the junk yard and picked up a 83 chev pickup filler neck with the screw on cap. Than a 1980 toyota pick filler hose went down to a utility bed shop and bught the recessed filler neck assembly.

That's a great idea and some resourceful scrounging.

I still have my filler neck custom mounted inside the wheelwell and want to eventually move it to through the sheetmetal. I was going to mount the original chrome Con-Fer fill neck & bracket combo through the passenger side sheet metal like the instructions always recommend, but I'm considering upsizing to 37s and moving the rear axle back 1" by relocating the center pins which would necessitate cutting the rear fender opening more towards the rear. That might interfere with the aux tank filler. I never thought of going through the rear corner using a 90º or bendable hose like you did. I still have to work out axle-to-aux tank clearance, so I have more thinking to do.

Thanks for the pic and parts sourcing info. Thread subscribed.

 

[Vortec_Cruiser]

Although I don't think the Pollak valve is fuel injection pressure capable (60psi) like one of the MAF valves is. I know mine isn't, anyway.

Good to 65 PSI. Yours may be an older model.