Making a steering wheel horn button

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not going to work as a lens... 7.5 min at 170 degrees did this... a couple minutes of cooling turned it hard again

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I think glass is the safest option

Not sure the lamp gets to a 170 degrees, it's a low wattage lamp. But unlike the 40 series license plate light the lens is above the lamp not under it. How much difference with heat rising.:meh: I do a agree glass would be best but don't anyone making custom glass parts in small numbers. Not the best time of year to do a test but maybe try to get a light put together and see how hot the glass gets.:hmm:
 
i need to buy one of those IR thermometers from HF...

i'd gladly make the lens if you guys need it done. Just need a good example to make the mold from. I'm confident we could cast it out of high temp resin so it wouldn't be an issue.
 
Well while your in the "casting" mood, the wiper park switch covers for the early wipers is in dire need of replication. :D Of course those are rubber not plastic....

it doesn't really matter what the medium is - i could probably cast it... the question is do you have a good example to make the mold from?
 
i need to buy one of those IR thermometers from HF...

i'd gladly make the lens if you guys need it done. Just need a good example to make the mold from. I'm confident we could cast it out of high temp resin so it wouldn't be an issue.

I'll pay for you to make one for LITP if he supplies the original.
 
If he's taking about the 1961-1967 wiper motors, I have a couple NOS ones.

I have a feeling we just opened up a big can of worms with this whole casting thing.

probably!

If you guys are willing to supply the originals I will try to make replacements
 
Another attempt

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I'm using a syringe & IV tubing as a one way valve to prevent air going into the mold.
 
Your horn buttons are looking pretty good. Nice work. I did the same thing in my garage. Fun little project.
Degassing the mixed resin is important to minimize the bubbles, as is minimizing cavitation when injecting the resin into the mold. For a water clear part, curing under pressure is the only way to go. It will eliminate the residual bubbles you are still seeing. No need to cure your mold under pressure. It wont deflect or distort your cured part.
-Al
 
it doesn't really matter what the medium is - i could probably cast it... the question is do you have a good example to make the mold from?
I unfortunately do not, but I bet Mark A. has one!
 
Does anyone have any pointers for painting the back side of the button?
 
I unfortunately do not, but I bet Mark A. has one!

I have the one NOS one I sent to @Racer65 , who said it was too small to bother with. It's back in the vault waiting for another opportunity. I really don't think this process and materials are appropriate for that part. It requires the flexibility of something more like plasti-dip.

www.marksoffroad.net
 
Yep. For a close to stock look, use Cygnus White for the wings and letters, and the pewter color used on glove box door ashtray etc... I got my pewter from jt Outfitters (nothing else tho) and it's a close match.

Use a small paint brush with the white. Then mask and spray the pewter.

I'm not positive that those were the actual colors used but when it was done, it looked dead on.
 
Thanks a lot, I have several made and have been waiting on paint colors.
Thanks
 
I have the one NOS one I sent to @Racer65 , who said it was too small to bother with. It's back in the vault waiting for another opportunity. I really don't think this process and materials are appropriate for that part. It requires the flexibility of something more like plasti-dip.

www.marksoffroad.net

this is exactly the process you would use for small scale reproduction... not too difficult to change the type of material actual cast in the mold

 

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