Maintenance you wished you would’ve done?

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You’re a long ways away from needing it, but the plastic heater T’s eventually disintegrate. One of mine did just after 200k miles, and another one just did on a rig I was working on with about 150k miles. Both 08’ model LX’s.
 
You’re a long ways away from needing it, but the plastic heater T’s eventually disintegrate. One of mine did just after 200k miles, and another one just did on a rig I was working on with about 150k miles. Both 08’ model LX’s.
The T’s are an odd one.. almost 200k on mine and they appear factory-new, both inside and out.

But others have had them blow after 100k

Definitely something to look at. And really, changing them as PM during the 120k coolant drain/fill is quite simple.
 
The T’s are an odd one.. almost 200k on mine and they appear factory-new, both inside and out.

But others have had them blow after 100k

Definitely something to look at. And really, changing them as PM during the 120k coolant drain/fill is quite simple.
Maybe they changed materials between the earlier years to yours.
 
Maybe they changed materials between the earlier years to yours.
I thought the same thing but someone with a newer rig than mine had them let go. Or at least appear in poor condition. If I recall correctly. Maybe it’s the different factories 200s could have come out of.

Either way, they should be looked at
 
I also vote for ceramic. Going on 6 years with ceramic Pro on my Tesla.

I also agree with no dealer service. I had the dealer service my LX until it went out of warranty. They stripped out my oil pan and front diff drain plug, broke my recirc door, and 2 TPMS. I’ve done all my own seevice since 60k miles. Wish I had done it all.
 
I also vote for ceramic. Going on 6 years with ceramic Pro on my Tesla.

I also agree with no dealer service. I had the dealer service my LX until it went out of warranty. They stripped out my oil pan and front diff drain plug, broke my recirc door, and 2 TPMS. I’ve done all my own seevice since 60k miles. Wish I had done it all.

Auto mechanics and the vehicle repair trade are in a sad state of affairs. No one wants to do the job anymore. The new generation has no interest in putting in the time to learn a skilled trade, and don't view turning wrenches as a respectable career. I've heard stories that dealers are so desperate for techs, they might be happy invite the dealership car wash guy into the garage.
 
- Cleaned the engine air filter at a car wash with compressed air the other day. I hardly do off roading for now so was not very dirty. Have a new one at hand. May do at 35k miles oil change.

This is inadvisable; not only does the force of compressed air risk the possibility of spreading the paper fibers, thereby making a larger pore size, but also the dust cloud that is generated is very difficult to keep off the clean side of the filter. This contamination can then enter the engine.

Caked on dust can be, in a pinch, gently knocked off the filter by tapping the filter frame against something if the filter has become too restrictive and a replacement is not available. This is inadvisable due to the dust cloud issue, but it is a "less bad" practice than compressed air. Generally only acceptable when the vehicle is not driveable, or severely down on power, as a result of the clogged filter. The filter should be replaced ASAP.

Best practice is to not mess with the filter at all; the paper air filters are caking filters and become more effective at filtering when there is some amount of material built up on the element. Over time the cake becomes to thick and the filter becomes overly restrictive. A pressure differential indicator (these are well regarded: Air Filter Service Indicators | Donaldson Engine & Vehicle - https://www.donaldson.com/en-au/engine/filters/products/air-intake/accessories/filter-service-indicators/) allows for you to know when to replace the air filter, without having to remove it and risk particulate contamination of the intake tract.
 
This is inadvisable; not only does the force of compressed air risk the possibility of spreading the paper fibers, thereby making a larger pore size, but also the dust cloud that is generated is very difficult to keep off the clean side of the filter. This contamination can then enter the engine.

Caked on dust can be, in a pinch, gently knocked off the filter by tapping the filter frame against something if the filter has become too restrictive and a replacement is not available. This is inadvisable due to the dust cloud issue, but it is a "less bad" practice than compressed air. Generally only acceptable when the vehicle is not driveable, or severely down on power, as a result of the clogged filter. The filter should be replaced ASAP.

Best practice is to not mess with the filter at all; the paper air filters are caking filters and become more effective at filtering when there is some amount of material built up on the element. Over time the cake becomes to thick and the filter becomes overly restrictive. A pressure differential indicator (these are well regarded: Air Filter Service Indicators | Donaldson Engine & Vehicle - https://www.donaldson.com/en-au/engine/filters/products/air-intake/accessories/filter-service-indicators/) allows for you to know when to replace the air filter, without having to remove it and risk particulate contamination of the intake tract.
Thanks for the insights. I did tap it first and only blew reverse direction, however have a new filter sitting in my office so will replace in the weekend and move on.

Regarding filter setup and accepting the good comments provided, I did notice in my 2021 that the upper part of the filter housing (clean side) has another coarse filter build in. I thought that was peculiar, then again makes sense from a Toyota perspective as sanding of the engines certainly has occurred in places like Australia per YT videos about the same. Interesting, wonder which model year they started doing that. Will take a picture and post when I replace for the new filter I have.
 
I will be honest…if routine maintenance as per owners manual results in power steering failure, then that is pure failure. Time to move on.

When my G500 had engine mount called at 65k, and I did some rough off-road stuff, I moved on. I did maintenance per MB protocol and it failed. I sold it.

Same will go with my LC. I won’t be making excuses like it was my fault that certain major hardware failed. If I did maintenance, then I expect a vehicle of LC (or G-wagen) caliber to soldier on without fail.
 
Regarding filter setup and accepting the good comments provided, I did notice in my 2021 that the upper part of the filter housing (clean side) has another coarse filter build in. I thought that was peculiar, then again makes sense from a Toyota perspective as sanding of the engines certainly has occurred in places like Australia per YT videos about the same. Interesting, wonder which model year they started doing that. Will take a picture and post when I replace for the new filter I have.

I actually think that is some kind of carbon filter to trap vapors that can drift out of the intake manifold when the engine is shut down. Though a dust filter would be nice.. my cruiser has shown slight evidence of very fine dust making it to the clean side of the airbox, at least before I started greasing the filter lip.
 
I will be honest…if routine maintenance as per owners manual results in power steering failure, then that is pure failure. Time to move on.

When my G500 had engine mount called at 65k, and I did some rough off-road stuff, I moved on. I did maintenance per MB protocol and it failed. I sold it.

Same will go with my LC. I won’t be making excuses like it was my fault that certain major hardware failed. If I did maintenance, then I expect a vehicle of LC (or G-wagen) caliber to soldier on without fail.

I agree with you, but there is a part of me that thinks the marketing department got their hands on the service manual. If a vehicle has a horrendous maintenance schedule that might be a deterring factor in buying that vehicle or brand. Since cost of ownership is scrutinized now I believe Toyota provided the lightest maintenance schedule that would take a vehicle through warranty without much headache. We are a rarity that want our trucks to perform flawlessly far beyond that. I believe that our unique platform with the right preventative maintenance will provide an incredible long lasting truck.
 
I agree with you, but there is a part of me that thinks the marketing department got their hands on the service manual. If a vehicle has a horrendous maintenance schedule that might be a deterring factor in buying that vehicle or brand. Since cost of ownership is scrutinized now I believe Toyota provided the lightest maintenance schedule that would take a vehicle through warranty without much headache. We are a rarity that want our trucks to perform flawlessly far beyond that. I believe that our unique platform with the right preventative maintenance will provide an incredible long lasting truck.
I doubt it. In an age of class action lawsuits and media exposure, no company willingly expose themselves to public shamming. If Toyota really cares about making things cheap and easy during warranty, then they would have provided free maintenance built into the price. Most Toyota/Lexus cars now just provide 2 years/25k free maintenance. No, Toyota is banking on their reputation of quality and durability. That is why people buy Toyotas.

My LC infotainment system failed at 25k. Strike one. I will give it 3 strikes. If it gets to 3, then it is done.

My 2022 Honda Ridgeline got to 3 strikes rather quickly. Gone.

My 2004 G500 got 3 strikes at 65k…last of which is the engine mount failure. Gone.

Sorry, i put up with yesterday’s technology and lack of features on an $85k LC for a reason. It is built to last, right? That was what i signed up for. That is what i paid my hard earned money for. I did NOT sign up for “excessive” maintenance costs (beyond the book’s) when i bought this expensive brand new lackluster (in features) LC!

Just call me, mini-Doug Demuro. :D

See…i bought my Ford truck for its features and pretty new shiny things. I did not spend $80k for durability. I spent this much for what it offers in practicality and need for what i wanted. Now, if my truck many fancy features fail (such as the 7.2kW generator), then it is gone (again 3 strikes rule apply).

In other words, regarding LC, if you expect me to spend $85k on a car AND then have to spend equal amount on preventive & EXTRA maintenance as a Ford (and its cost of small issues), then Toyota has tricked me! I expect my LC to be rock solid with basic maintenance. That is the ONLY reason i bought it for.
 
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I doubt it. In an age of class action lawsuits and media exposure, no company willingly expose themselves to public shamming. If Toyota really cares about making things cheap and easy during warranty, then they would have provided free maintenance built into the price. Most Toyota/Lexus cars now just provide 2 years/25k free maintenance. No, Toyota is banking on their reputation of quality and durability. That is why people buy Toyotas.

My LC infotainment system failed at 25k. Strike one. I will give it 3 strikes. If it gets to 3, then it is done.

My 2022 Honda Ridgeline got to 3 strikes rather quickly. Gone.

My 2004 G500 got 3 strikes at 65k…last of which is the engine mount failure. Gone.

Sorry, i put up with yesterday’s technology and lack of features on an $85k LC for a reason. It is built to last, right? That was what i signed up for. That is what i paid my hard earned money for. I did NOT sign up for “excessive” maintenance costs (beyond the book’s) when i bought this expensive brand new lackluster (in features) LC!

Just call me, mini-Doug Demuro. :D

See…i bought my Ford truck for its features and new pretty things. I did not spend $80k for durability. I spent this much for what it offers in practicality and need for what i wanted. Now, if my truck many fancy features fail (such as the 7.2kW generator), then it is gone (again 3 strikes rule apply).

In other words, regarding LC, if you expect me to spend $85k on a car AND then have to spend equal amount on preventive & EXTRA maintenance as a Ford (and its cost of small issues), then Toyota has tricked me! I expect my LC to be rock solid with basic maintenance. That is the ONLY reason i bought it for.
I wondered what to think about your profile name.

Doing maintenance or some additional things to manufacture recommendation (like the claimed lifetime ATF) makes sense within reason when you plan to keep a vehicle for the longterm like many of us do.
 
I wondered what to think about your profile name.

Doing maintenance or some additional things to manufacture recommendation (like the claimed lifetime ATF) makes sense within reason.
@TeCKis300 loves my name. He thinks that it describes me perfectly. I am starting to agree with him for once. :D

Ya know what……..Toyota……then don’t ***king say that it is lifetime! I take it at face value. Now, to be fair, lets say at 200-300k miles, i do support changing out the lifetime ATF. Again, i am not THAT unreasonable. But i am NOT gonna change ATF at 60k for example! If i wanted to pay extra to change fluids every 15-30k to prevent hardware failure, then i might as well get a Ford or Jeep! (Of course, i am not talking about oil changes etc that is in the Owner’s Manual.)
 
dont fall for the trolling ….
Why is it trolling? So you are OK spending extra $$$ on maintenance outside OM’s?

It is just my opinion. Toyota and low cost maintenance are why i buy Toyotas.

YMMV
 
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I doubt it. In an age of class action lawsuits and media exposure, no company willingly expose themselves to public shamming. If Toyota really cares about making things cheap and easy during warranty, then they would have provided free maintenance built into the price. Most Toyota/Lexus cars now just provide 2 years/25k free maintenance. No, Toyota is banking on their reputation of quality and durability. That is why people buy Toyotas.

My LC infotainment system failed at 25k. Strike one. I will give it 3 strikes. If it gets to 3, then it is done.

My 2022 Honda Ridgeline got to 3 strikes rather quickly. Gone.

My 2004 G500 got 3 strikes at 65k…last of which is the engine mount failure. Gone.

Sorry, i put up with yesterday’s technology and lack of features on an $85k LC for a reason. It is built to last, right? That was what i signed up for. That is what i paid my hard earned money for. I did NOT sign up for “excessive” maintenance costs (beyond the book’s) when i bought this expensive brand new lackluster (in features) LC!

Just call me, mini-Doug Demuro. :D

See…i bought my Ford truck for its features and pretty new shiny things. I did not spend $80k for durability. I spent this much for what it offers in practicality and need for what i wanted. Now, if my truck many fancy features fail (such as the 7.2kW generator), then it is gone (again 3 strikes rule apply).

In other words, regarding LC, if you expect me to spend $85k on a car AND then have to spend equal amount on preventive & EXTRA maintenance as a Ford (and its cost of small issues), then Toyota has tricked me! I expect my LC to be rock solid with basic maintenance. That is the ONLY reason i bought it for.
Dear mini-Doug,

If you do not think overall "cost of ownership" is something these brands strive to one up each other on, you are sadly mistaken. As in with most businesses it seems more and more heavy decisions are being run from accounting than innovation/engineering departments. I am sure the engineers would lower the threshold or give a range of mileage/environment recommendations for services (best case). Additionally, "lifetime" claims of fluid, etc is whatever arbitrary mark the manufacturer decides (100k for transmission, 120k for engine, etc). I'm planning on keeping my rig for a long time and I depend on this thing to take care of me and mine regardless what environment it's in. If something fails, I want zero second thoughts about "coulda, shoulda, woulda" regarding maintenance. Good to have differing vantages though for (albiet small) data points for issues as they come up.
 
Why is it trolling? So you are OK spending extra $$$ on maintenance outside OM’s?

It is just my opinion. Toyota and low cost maintenance are why i buy Toyotas.

YMMV

Yep.
Literally the 200 doesnt do the one thing its supposed to do that you accept a mountain of tradeoffs for. The camry is a better platform for longevity. Im happy to be the resident hater but reality is setting in on mud it would seem.

Also im just here to gloat about how INCREDIBLY and YUGELY impressively correct i have been about the entire toyota truck lineup for the last 2-3 years.

The lineup is a joke. Its an ugly bloated convoluted mess and no LC lolz

There was no room for the 4R and everyone is seeing it now. Also 4R is now an upgraded rav4 see, they did think about the heritage.
 
Dear mini-Doug,

If you do not think overall "cost of ownership" is something these brands strive to one up each other on, you are sadly mistaken. As in with most businesses it seems more and more heavy decisions are being run from accounting than innovation/engineering departments. I am sure the engineers would lower the threshold or give a range of mileage/environment recommendations for services (best case). Additionally, "lifetime" claims of fluid, etc is whatever arbitrary mark the manufacturer decides (100k for transmission, 120k for engine, etc). I'm planning on keeping my rig for a long time and I depend on this thing to take care of me and mine regardless what environment it's in. If something fails, I want zero second thoughts about "coulda, shoulda, woulda" regarding maintenance. Good to have differing vantages though for (albiet small) data points for issues as they come up.
If owning a Toyota now means replacing various parts early (to prevent failure) and doing 2-3 extra fluid changes before required, then I would get a Ford Raptor or Jeep Rubicon because those vehicles have aftermarket support galore (aka cheaper and more bountiful aftermarket parts; even dealer parts are cheaper). So those vehicles actually may end up costing LESS in maintenance / ownership when compared to Toyota LC with parts being more rare and more $$. So, LC has less features, less bells & whistles, and now more maintenance cost?? :(

But yeah i see your points…just not what i signed up for.

Mini-Doug. :)
 
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