Main & Connecting Rod Bearing Options

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

This is a great thread, very informative. Make sure to tell us what you end up doing and how it works out!
 
This is a great thread, very informative. Make sure to tell us what you end up doing and how it works out!

Will do! Dropped the block, crank and timing cover off this morning at my machine shop. He couldn't believe how good the cylinder walls looked. Said a light hone and new rings wouldn't be a bad idea since they're already out and I could go standard OEM rings, but probably not needed. They're going to check the crank for roundness and do a polish which according to him wont actually take enough material off to make a difference.

I'm doing bearings since I'm already in there and they were a bit gouged/scratched but conflicted on rings. Things keep adding up and destroying my budget. whats new. This is my first time this deep in a motor.

Going to look at OEM pricing vs clevite vs whatever else i find.
 
@Wompom once again, your build, but I would highly suggest a step hone and re-ring "while your in there." If the plan is to not have to open the motor up again for another decade or two, you may as well get the best performance out of it. When I did my 94, I ordered NPR rings. If I remember correctly they came in Mahle boxes, or maybe NPR boxes with Mahle part numbers on the invoice. Regardless, also Japanese made, also very high quality, just like the Clevite bearings. Had instructions for the proper step hone procedure to prepare the block. I'm going to say I probably had $130 in rings and $10 a bore for honing. With that and all of the head work my motor has been running tip top for going on 4 years now. I know the costs can nickel and dime you, but if you can swing it, you will feel a lot better about the end product.
 
@Wompom once again, your build, but I would highly suggest a step hone and re-ring "while your in there." If the plan is to not have to open the motor up again for another decade or two, you may as well get the best performance out of it. When I did my 94, I ordered NPR rings. If I remember correctly they came in Mahle boxes, or maybe NPR boxes with Mahle part numbers on the invoice. Regardless, also Japanese made, also very high quality, just like the Clevite bearings. Had instructions for the proper step hone procedure to prepare the block. I'm going to say I probably had $130 in rings and $10 a bore for honing. With that and all of the head work my motor has been running tip top for going on 4 years now. I know the costs can nickel and dime you, but if you can swing it, you will feel a lot better about the end product.


Appreciate all your input. I know at the end of the day I wont regret the hone + rings, as long as i dont screw up the install. I think if i decide to do rings ill have the machine shop do the hone so i dont mess it up.
Do you mind if i ask where you sourced your bearings and rings?
 
Appreciate all your input. I know at the end of the day I wont regret the hone + rings, as long as i dont screw up the install. I think if i decide to do rings ill have the machine shop do the hone so i dont mess it up.
Do you mind if i ask where you sourced your bearings and rings?

Definitely have the machine shop do the hone process. You can do it with a $40 ball hone and a drill, but you won't have the precision that they will. I sourced my rings from a company called Performance Engine (NPR should be the OEM supplier) and I sourced my bearings from Rockauto, but I don't believe they carry them last time I checked.
 
I folllowed @half k cruiser advice when rebuilding 2 motors now, used same rings and clevite bearings. Very happy with about 15k miles on engine. OEM rings will blow your budget away, and likely off same production line.
 
A Japanese TP or RK/Riken ring set can be purchased for $70 - $80. Factory pistons are $45, they come w/ moly coated skirts and anodized top ring lands. Drop me a PM if you need more info.
 
A Japanese TP or RK/Riken ring set can be purchased for $70 - $80. Factory pistons are $45, they come w/ moly coated skirts and anodized top ring lands. Drop me a PM if you need more info.

Your saying OEM supplier of Toyota pistons ? What about oversized ?
 
Rings are not an easy find for the 1FZ. Or I should say a good aftermarket ring set.

You think just going OEM is preferable to going with the Hastings or TP/Riken mentioned above? Obviously OEM is OEM for a reason but is the premium worth it compared to other options?
 
The 80 has kind of peculiar sized rings. 1.750/2.000/4.000 the modern trend is thinner rings which supposedly help with power and MPG.

I would think the NPR rings would be better than the Hastings rings based off of material.

The NPR rings are: (Per NPR Piston ring application guide)
Top ring - Steel Nitride coated
Second Ring - Cast Iron Chrome coated
Oil Ring - Steel Nitride coated

The Hastings rings are: (Per Hasting 2016 Master Piston ring catalog)
Top ring - Cast Iron Chrome coated
Second ring - Cast Iron
Oil Ring - Cast Iron Chrome coated

*** Follow up

It appears RIK has three 1FZ offerings (28484, 28021, 28078) the first two sets have nitrided Top Rings and Oil rings and uncoated second rings while the third set 28078 has Nitrided top ring, chrome second ring and nitrided oil ring just like the NPR's. I would guess 28078 would be comparable to the NPR's and the other two sets comparable to the Hastings.


Cast Iron is a cheaper material to make rings out of. Steel is a tougher but requires the coating.

I do not know about OEM rings as the information on OEM parts is a little tougher to come by, but usually the OEM quality is pretty good. I just do not know if they have made changes to the parts as technology has moved forward.
 
Last edited:
The 80 has kind of peculiar sized rings. 1.750/2.000/4.000 the modern trend is thinner rings which supposedly help with power and MPG.

I would think the NPR rings would be better than the Hastings rings based off of material.

The NPR rings are: (Per NPR Piston ring application guide)
Top ring - Steel Nitride coated
Second Ring - Cast Iron Chrome coated
Oil Ring - Steel Nitride coated

The Hastings rings are: (Per Hasting 2016 Master Piston ring catalog)
Top ring - Cast Iron Chrome coated
Second ring - Cast Iron
Oil Ring - Cast Iron Chrome coated

*** Follow up

It appears RIK has three 1FZ offerings (28484, 28021, 28078) the first two sets have nitrided Top Rings and Oil rings and uncoated second rings while the third set 28078 has Nitrided top ring, chrome second ring and nitrided oil ring just like the NPR's. I would guess 28078 would be comparable to the NPR's and the other two sets comparable to the Hastings.


Cast Iron is a cheaper material to make rings out of. Steel is a tougher but requires the coating.

I do not know about OEM rings as the information on OEM parts is a little tougher to come by, but usually the OEM quality is pretty good. I just do not know if they have made changes to the parts as technology has moved forward.


Interesting. I honestly didn't even think there would be that much of a variance in materials. good to think about though.
I wonder if the OEM have ever updated, considering a lot of other components have been updated over time.
 
Who is the OEM supplier ?

TPR Co LTD (Formerly known as Teikoku Piston Ring Co, LTD.)

Land Cruiser pistons are manufactured by ART Metal Manufacturing Co. (which was actually recently purchased by Taiho Metal Manufacturing— which has historically manufactured main and con bearings for Land Cruiser engines).

As usual, these are old companies with very long, ingrained keiretsu relationships with Toyota.
 
Interesting. I honestly didn't even think there would be that much of a variance in materials. good to think about though.
I wonder if the OEM have ever updated, considering a lot of other components have been updated over time.

There is a secondary part number supersession for the rings: -66020 to -66021. What changed? I don’t know.
 
I bought King bearings for my rebuild, not sure how price compares to Clevite. I would price shop the two brands.
Definitely hone and re ring. Install is simple but you should be sure and carefully setting ring gap as it can really effect power/effficency etc. Just google the process.
Enjoy
 
Machine shop called. Block is done. Took .004 off the deck, light hone and lightly polished the crank. Advised that I replace with same size bearings and rings .
Time to really find all the options and choose .
 
This is what i can find for clevite from rockauto. Waiting on OEM pricing to make the decision. Still need to figure out rings.

Bearings.JPG
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom