Really?! Damn. Good to know. Thank you! That makes me feel much better.
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Man this is also good to hear. You’re running 34’s on sensor lift without strut spacer?
I’m on tires that spec 35.3 and are 34 3/4 inflated and weighted (installed on truck). Plastic moving some plastic deleting, minor sensor lift. And very careful choice of tire and wheel offset.
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im running 35’s without strut spacer... the spacer doesn’t add height - it applies more preload which lowers the ahc pressure.
I was looking to do this on my LX and was watching your video. The question I have is that on my 2011 LX the rear Passenger and Driver side brackets are significantly different. The driver's side looks like the one in the video you created but the passenger side is different on mine where it looks to be the same on yours.
Any thoughts?
Bump.
I went ahead and adjusted all 4 brackets even though the rear passenger looked different than the one I'd see in the YouTube Video. Honestly, I cannot really tell a difference in the height once the truck goes back into N. Unfortunately, I neglected to measure the actual height prior to the process and perhaps I'm misunderstanding the whole process. Below are the steps I took:
- With the engine on and brake off, raise the truck to High.
- Shut AHC off
- Turn engine off
- Adjust brackets
I know due to differences in tire and wheel size, you cannot simply compare the height of the wheel well on one LX to another to see if the lift was the same. However, wouldn't the distance from the center of the wheel hub to the lip of the wheel well (see below) be the same on stock vehicles and therefore you could measure a stock one and compare to a lifted one and note the difference?
What measurement are you getting from ground to the middle of the fender well in high mode now ?
Well, you should see some difference, even via the non-scientific finger test. I agree that before/after measurements hub to fender would help you pin down how much you get.
How much did you move the adjusters? Half way? all the way? hardly at all?
All the way baby!
I do have the outstanding question on the different looking bracket on the rear passenger side which I pushed all the way even though it seems limiting in a way that the driver's side does not.However, from center of the hub to lip of wheel well:
N = 19.75"
Hi = 21.5
Ground to wheel well in Hi is 36.5". Did not measure in N.
Sounds like you'll need to do an AHC sensor offset adjustment with Techstream to even out the physical adjustment sensors, or to add height beyond the adjustment limit.
Yes, you can compare heights between the hub and fender.
Here's my heights with a 1" front lift and .75" rear lift, and 35s
| Front Hub to Fender | Rear Hub to Fender | Front Ground to Fender (includes tire) | Rear Ground to Fender (includes tire) | |
| Stock AHC "N" | 19.0" | 20.75" | 33.5" (stock tire) | 35.125" (stock tire) |
| Stock AHC "H" | 21.0" | 23.125" | 35.5" (stock tire) | 37.5" (stock tire) |
| Sensor Lifted AHC "N" | 20.0" | 21.5" | 36.15" (35x12.5s) | 37.5" (35x12.5s) |
| Sensor Lifted AHC "H" | 22.0" | 23.875" | 38.15" (35x12.5s), 4.65" total lift | 39.9" (35x12.5s), 4.75" total lift |
| Sensor Lifted AHC "Extra High" (projected) | 22.75" | 24.625" | 38.9" (35x12.5s), 5.4" total lift | 40.65" (35x12.5s), 5.5" total lift |
I need to do this soon....thanks for info...
Thanks @TeCKis300 !
Yeah, maybe .5". Was the process I followed correct? It's not the end of the world but would like to get a wee bit more lift via the sensor.
I got that much from just a little movement, like 6 or 7 mm. I’d suggest adjusting it a little with the ahc on and car running, it should move in real time . If I recall the front goes up for up and the rear down for up.
.... usually takes up to 30 seconds to see a movement. If you move a tiny bit, might not move at all.
We can agree that full range movement should be dramatic, yes? If nothing else, the alignment should be off quite a bit as a sign that a change has occurred. The lack of change is quite odd to me.
I’ll try this tomorrow and let you guys know what happens.
After 11 years of 100 series ownership, I bought a 2013 LX570 and sold my 2001 LX470. I'm glad we can use the same AHC tricks with the 200 series! Thanks to all who have explored the sensor lift. This will probably be my first modification, after I put on some proper winter tires tomorrow (bought some Tundra 18" rims, and will put Hakkapeliitta R3 275/65/18's on tomorrow). I look forward to a sensor lift and some larger all-season tires in the spring.
One question I've got: With my 100 series I would always check the "neutral pressures" to make sure that I wasn't overloading the system (I put on bumpers, winch, roof rack, sliders...). On the 100 series stock pressures are 6.9 MPa +/- 0.5MPa on the front and 5.6 to 6.7 MPa on the rear. Do we know what the neutral pressures are for the stock 200 series (LX 570)? That would probably give us a good target for adding rear spring spacers and front coil spring spacers (trial and error). Is it in the LX570 shop manual?
One question I've got: With my 100 series I would always check the "neutral pressures" to make sure that I wasn't overloading the system (I put on bumpers, winch, roof rack, sliders...). On the 100 series stock pressures are 6.9 MPa +/- 0.5MPa on the front and 5.6 to 6.7 MPa on the rear. Do we know what the neutral pressures are for the stock 200 series (LX 570)? That would probably give us a good target for adding rear spring spacers and front coil spring spacers (trial and error). Is it in the LX570 shop manual?
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Normal pressure is 8 MPa (1160 psi) and will reach 13MPa (1885 psi) from Normal to High.
High Pressure Errors will trigger if you reach 18.5MPa for more than .3 seconds....That's 2683psi!
Low Pressure will trigger at .6MPa (87psi) if longer than .6 seconds
Is that 8MPa the same for each corner?
