It very well could be low. As stated, my driveway is far from level. In N, the fluid level is just under the max line. A flush is definitely needed as the fluid appears very dark. I'll get some ordered this week. This LX has 110k miles and no apparent history of an AHC flush. I have no complaints with the system and everything functions as it should and the ride feels great, so I'll just stick to a flush for now.
LX570 AHC “Basics” - Added as sticky thread for AHC Issues (15 Viewers)
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Going to replace my right rear actuator and globe assembly this week. The FSM says to bleed both the right front and rear when removing the damper assembly. Does this seem like it's required or can I just bleed the one I'm replacing? When I did the fluid flush each one seemed to be pretty self contained when I bled them.
if your fluid is fresh you can capture and reuse.
i'd suggest a full bleed after doing the one corner.
i'd suggest a full bleed after doing the one corner.
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
I’ve got 135K on my LX. Haven’t replaced the actuator yet so no Easy Access fix, but troubleshooting as led to starting with replacing the RR one so we will see.
Strange that it would have you do the right front and rear...if it wasn't going to have you do all 4. If it said to do both the corners on the same axle, that would make more sense because there is a gate valve that connects between the left and right side on each axle (that valve is normally closed, but there aren't many details out there about when the ECU opens it). Still, all the height control valves and gates are in one place and after that place, the hydraulic pathways are separate.
Now if while bleeding you managed to back air up into the main feed tube between the pump and height control valve assembly, then it's possible you could introduce air to any of the 4 paths, so use that info however you want.
If it were me I'd follow manual, but that's because i don't understand hydraulics well enough to understand how bleeding from the middle of the total pathway works. On one hand, it's almost more like the bleeder is at the end of two different pathways, since gravity acts on the "shock" applying pressure towards the actuator and the pump can apply pressure from the height control side.
is it pretty self explanatory how to do the height offset adjustment procedure in techstream?
Is your goal to lift, or to level?
If leveling, you'll want to get the FSM page for it, because it's not strait forward.
If lifting, I recommend moving sensors over messing with HOU.
But if you follow the thread on HOU for lifting, it's fairly strait forward, the ECU might do some weird things while attempting to apply changes.
Just trying to level it for now, unless I should just lift it half an inch and it will automatically adjust? I disconnected the battery with the truck in the air while swapping the starter and now my truck leans to the left. So I assume its not a good idea to disconnect the battery with all 4 wheels off the ground
well the front driver side is lower than the right passenger
I wouldn't worry about it. If the truck is off, you can do whatever you want. The system is static at that point. WHat you want to avoid is lifting truck by frame while the truck is running (unless you hit the AHC OFF button), otherwise the truck will think the angle is changing and attempt to adjust the suspension.
Caveat emptor, I'm not a Toyota engineer, I've just read the manual.
The problem with leveling is there are multiple states the system can exist in.
Post Height Adjustment State:
If you are on level ground and do a cycle from L to N, that will be what the truck thinks is level and all heights are set by the suspension via height sensors to make the truck zero out the height readings. If you are level at this point, then there is no reason to adjust anything (other than to lift). This may not mean your truck is going to generally ride level. Likewise, if it's not level at this point, that doesn't necessarily mean your truck doesn't ride level generally.
Post Driving State:
Once you start driving around, the normally closed gate valves between the axles are going to open at some point. This is going to balance the pressures between the sides of each axle. (ie. FL and FR and going to balance to have the same pressure on both sides, and same for rear). Now if you have a corner spring or anything else that causes one side to sit lower, no amount of adjusting AHC sensors/HOU is going to correct that. Only way to fix it is to make a change to the springs (spacers/shims/new springs) or fix whatever is causing the height difference.
With Techstream you can open the gate valves with the AHC utility. Possibly, the best course of action for most of us would be to get the truck on level ground, raise to N then open the gate valves with the utility. Then see where the truck sits. Decide if that's acceptable or if something needs correcting.
To me, the only reason to adjust the sensors, or to use HOU (essentially the same thing), is to get the sensors as close to reading 0 as possible when the truck is in the open gate valve state. That way there should be less random corrections while driving and at stop lights. Other than that it's not really worth chasing.
What would be interesting at this point is understanding how the yaw and acceleration/deceleration sensors play into decision the AHC ECU makes, when leveling and otherwise.
I’ve reached a “I think I’m screwed” place and could use some thoughts.
I can’t get this nut loose to save my life and think it’s pretty rounded at this point. Here’s the FSM step:
It’s this connection (pictured is my replacement assembly):
Of course this is right up against the gas tank so I don’t really want to take flame to it. I’ve doused it in penetrating oil and have let it sit for hours but still nothing.
Any suggestions? Other than this one nut it would be a pretty easy install.
I can’t get this nut loose to save my life and think it’s pretty rounded at this point. Here’s the FSM step:
It’s this connection (pictured is my replacement assembly):
Of course this is right up against the gas tank so I don’t really want to take flame to it. I’ve doused it in penetrating oil and have let it sit for hours but still nothing.
Any suggestions? Other than this one nut it would be a pretty easy install.
So you’ve put a closed end wrench on it? And Put a pipe on the wrench and given it some extra leverage?
I’ve used a crowfoot flare wrench with a breaking bar and nothing. At this point the wrench slips.
This has got me so pissed. My entire AHC doesn’t work because of this one unbelievably inaccessible nut.
It’s sitting directly under the right edge of the backseat passenger side. My only thought now is to try and come at it from above by going through the floor. I have no idea what that would look like.
It’s sitting directly under the right edge of the backseat passenger side. My only thought now is to try and come at it from above by going through the floor. I have no idea what that would look like.
I’m not sure what size you’ll need, but I have in mind one of these plus the appropriate pipe
It’s got to be a flare wrench as there’s a pipe going into it. And it’s two 90 degree turns to get to it.
I don’t have much help on the nut, but just wondered. Did you test the new to you accumulator. Does it pass the FSM tests?
Yes, passed the tests! Was hopeful to have a repaired system today.
I put everything back together, not sure what my next options will be. There’s an independent Lexus shop nearby, might take it there and see if they can get the assembly out.
Need to order more fluid, burned through the last of mine with todays adventures. Have the small bottles been cleared at this point or do I need to still order a 2.5 liter can?
I put everything back together, not sure what my next options will be. There’s an independent Lexus shop nearby, might take it there and see if they can get the assembly out.
Need to order more fluid, burned through the last of mine with todays adventures. Have the small bottles been cleared at this point or do I need to still order a 2.5 liter can?
