Builds LX450 where to start!

[OGBeno]

Good work on this Ryan. Every time I do a front axle job, I take all of the big metal pieces and repaint all of them. I was thinking in the future of powder coating, but went against it since I really enjoy the process of the front axle job and a complete job includes painting parts.

 

[scottryana]

Thanks Onur, @beno

Sorry if you took my last post wrong about the spindles. I was just trying to find out your price. At this point I am too deep to care about $80-$100

Can you please send me:
(2) Dust covers - 4342335010
(1) brake anti rattle spring - 4774860040
(4) brake pins - 9024006016
(2) Spindles - 4340160081
(8) steering studs - 9012612005
(8) nuts - 9411571200
(8) washers - 9020112019

Think you still have my card on file. Let me know.

Thanks!

 

[OGBeno]

Not at all Ryan.

All parts are in stock, ready to depart Monday.

 

[scottryana]

Awesome thanks Beno, and please know that we do all appreciate the hard work all of you venders put in. But it is also kind of hard for people like me who are kind of Type A and control freaks to not know what things cost and just order blind, even if I know you guys will take care of me.


Now I just need RCV to get me those new 30/30 birfs and inners, and for ARP to get me the drive flange studs and I can get this damn thing put back together.

 

[ton504]

Thanks Onur, @beno

Sorry if you took my last post wrong about the spindles. I was just trying to find out your price. At this point I am too deep to care about $80-$100

Can you please send me:
(2) Dust covers - 4342335010
(1) brake anti rattle spring - 4774860040
(4) brake pins - 9024006016
(2) Spindles - 4340160081
(8) steering studs - 9012612005
(8) nuts - 9411571200
(8) washers - 9020112019

Think you still have my card on file. Let me know.

Thanks!

The spindles, do they come with the bushing?

 

[scottryana]

I believe that the new spindles with the part number listed should come with the bushing and the new needle bearings.

 

[OGBeno]

^^^ yes, they come with the needle roller bearings.

 

[ton504]

I believe that the new spindles with the part number listed should come with the bushing and the new needle bearings.

Thats odd. I don't remember seeing needle bearings on mine. Do you have a pic handy?

Edit- Nevermind. I googled and its an updated part. So half bushing and needle bearing combo compared to a full bushing like mine?

 

[scottryana]

Not my picture, but you can see the bushing on the outside and needle bearings on the inside.

 

[scottryana]

This was kind of cool to see. Some of the parts I have been using for my rebuild were bought by the PO (who as far as I know is not on mud) and were in a box. I dug out the receipt and it was from one of or very own parts guru's from 4.5 years ago. Haha @cruiserdan

 

[OGBeno]

^^^ Holy s***. That's my signature when I packed boxes at American.... Lower lefthand corner at the bottom of the parts list. Wow. Way cool.

Land Cruiser nostalgia is cool in all it's forms.

 

[scottryana]

Haha too funny! I remember when the kid told me he had searched and found the parts for the front end rebuild, I didn't think much about it, but going through the box I was like Damn he knew what he was doing this is the most thorough kit I have seen. Then I got to the bottom of the box and it all made sense. Lol

 

[scottryana]

Things that go through my head when I am sitting around waiting for parts to show up.

I know a lot of people swap birf sides so that going forward the joint is running on the fresh side.

Since I am getting new birfs it is not a big deal but what about the drive flanges? Would swapping sides and running on the fresh spline side take any slop out of the driveline?

I am not going with chromo drive flange as I do want that to be my fuse. It is easier to swap a stripped drive flange than, broken studs or birfield. Hopefully with the ARP studs and RCV joints that is the case.

 

[bryson]

I don't think that you'd benefit at all, because a spline is going to be sloppy no matter what direction it's turning, but it certainly wouldn't hurt.

 

[scottryana]

Well that's kind of like saying a birf would have slop no matter which way you installed it right? The pocket the ball bearing sits in is larger but people get more life and strength swapping them, simply because the engaged side has less wear.

Not really a big deal and not really earth shattering like I said just s*** I think about when I am sitting here looking at parts waiting to put this back together. Lol

 

[bryson]

I agree that the birf would have an equal amount of slop no matter which direction it's turning, but, by reversing them, the balls have a fresh(er) wear surface to ride on. In the spline scenario, there is no bearing-like movement like there is in a birf, which is why I don't think you'd benefit from swapping them around.

 

[BILT4ME]

Don't forget to pull the ABS sensor rings from your existing birfs and press them onto your new RCV axles!!!! Ask me how I know.........

 

[Hornd]

The other thing that I learned is that the hood latch on my particular truck is incredibly touchy. I actually locked myself out of the engine bay for a bit. After a little panic, reading on mud, crawling on the ground under the front of the truck etc, I learned that there is no real way to let yourself in from the outside. A few of the guys with the earlier trucks were able to jimmy the latch.... I am not sure if it is the later model year or a Lexus thing but they have a protective plastic shield around the latch mechanism.

So I beat on the hood a little thinking maybe it wasn't engaging far enough etc. I eventually rigged up a way to "pull" on the latch while being able to yank on the hood. This finally worked. Lots of crouching and watching the hood drop. I finally got it close enough that it will open. It doesn't have that authoritative pop that I like, but it opens.

Here is my rigged way of holding the latch inside the truck while I yank on the hood.

If you are doing the headlight harness upgrade, maybe trace around the latching mechanism with a pencil so you can get it back in the exact same spot. My truck may have been in an accident or something but there didn't seem to be much room for error.

Ryan
View attachment 587749

If you adjust the bumpers on the sides of the hood up, you can put spring in the hood. Just make sure hood is flush with fenders.
I had to loosen my hood latch bolts and move latch all the way up. Pops like a champion now. 3 Minute Job


We have very similar trucks and have done very similar work, I did the Pioneers and added a 10" sub also in a drawer build.
I already did my AC Condenser, Drier, and Expansion Valve....Holler if you need help.

Have you done the heater mixing valve (Blow thru to check) or Steering Bushing (Visually Check)? Replace Dome Bulbs and Door Bulbs with LED?

I still need to do the Tranny and Radiator Flushes.

I too removed my roof rack and built a new rack out of industrial 1" tubing.

 

[scottryana]

Easy way to get them off and on? Thanks for the reminder, it was on my mind but easy to slip.

Don't forget to pull the ABS sensor rings from your existing birfs and press them onto your new RCV axles!!!! Ask me how I know.........

 

[scottryana]

That post was almost 3 years ago, keep reading.

If you adjust the bumpers on the sides of the hood up, you can put spring in the hood. Just make sure hood is flush with fenders.
I had to loosen my hood latch bolts and move latch all the way up. Pops like a champion now. 3 Minute Job


We have very similar trucks and have done very similar work, I did the Pioneers and added a 10" sub also in a drawer build.
I already did my AC Condenser, Drier, and Expansion Valve....Holler if you need help.

Have you done the heater mixing valve (Blow thru to check) or Steering Bushing (Visually Check)? Replace Dome Bulbs and Door Bulbs with LED?

I still need to do the Tranny and Radiator Flushes.

I too removed my roof rack and built a new rack out of industrial 1" tubing.