Builds LX450 where to start! (1 Viewer)

[Delancy]

I can't believe anyone would spend $500 on a shock. That's just ludicrous.

When I talked to Christo last he said he was working on the mounts. I'm surprised to hear he doesn't have a better solution.

I was hoping he had a better means that I concocted and why I couldn't wait to see what he sent to scottryana.

Here's what I think, considering it's very tight confines to weld anything to the upper coil tower, at least with my facilities and devices, plus permanently affixing would make PS gearbox removal difficult, if not impossible.

There's two bolts the attach the bumps to the top of the tower, penetrating from bottom to top.



Why not cut a ring that's the same inner and outer diameter of the flat portion of the coil tower, utilize the bump bolts to bolt the ring to the tower, making for easy removal when the time comes, the weld the bolt on Poly Performance resi mount to the ring, with the resi oriented towards the front, and maybe stiffener between the bottom of the resi mount and the ring?

Hold on for pic.

 

[scottryana]

Yes $500 is a lot, but I already had an order going with Slee and I usually don't mind paying a little more for the convenience of a well thought out solution not to mention I also like to support shops that are going out of their way to still come up with quality parts for these aging trucks

I do like the looks of what you have going there. I am not sure what I am going to do with mine yet, the hose is pretty stiff and not as long as I would have thought (insert joke here) so I don't think I will have many options.

 

[Delancy]

Yes $500 is a lot

Don't hang out on the 80 board for a bit and must've been forgotten already.

I hate any discussion regarding costs, especially the suspension, because no one seems to appreciate the benefits of a on-road, plush riding 80 that exceeds the typical limitations off road.

the hose is pretty stiff and not as long as I would have thought (insert joke here) so I don't think I will have many options.

If I were to reorder the front Radflo's today, I'd have the hose orientation and length capable of routing to the lower body support on the front, and be done with it.

Out of the way, easy to reach the adjusters, and not near as much a predicament to mount.

On the rear, going to weld a 90 degree tab to the poly mount and bolt it to the lip of the coil tower.

Piggy backs aren't the solution, especially on the rear, if the ADS resis are nearly as large as the Radflos, due to the close confines to all the moving components and the tendency for a piggy back to spin.

As for hose and orientation, and I'd advise clearing with Christo first, you can loosen the fitting enough to spin the fitting at the upper shock body.

It's a precise amount before oil will sponge out and a small amount isn't an end of the world problem, but it did help repositioning mine of the FJC and 80.

 

[scottryana]

Yeah on the front's adjusting the hose really isn't going to get you much, they are basically setup to be Right and Left specific, they will work well and the res appears to want to settle on top of the coil bucket, I will just need to put together a little better mount. I haven't done anything with the rears yet since I am not sure what I want to do, I know I will probably want to pull a trailer some given the new found power. Pulling a trailer I can't go too soft, but was thinking about going with 4" hydraulic bumpstops and then adding and removing air to firm the suspension.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Here is some info from the horses ass. Firstly, comments on price, these shocks are obviously not for anyone but the devil is in the details. Not all "shiny jumpin shocks" are made the same. Anyone buying shocks in this class should educate themselves on what they are buying.

As for mounting, I agree 100% with Scott that we don't have our poop in a group on this yet. But as he has pointed out it is not a huge volume seller, so the time allocated to making the mounts and then mass producing them has been a bit lacking. No excuse, just the reality of where we are at. We have some time scheduled again next week to once and for all get this dialed in and get a design to production.

We have found that the least intrusive place to mount them is on the top of the coil bucket. We send Scott some mount pieces and some photo's of the prototype plates we have made. Once we get production ones done I will send him a set.

As anyone knows with getting reservoirs stuck into the front wheel well creates all kinds of clearance issues. That gets worse since we have no control over tire and wheel choices etc.

Hope to get this to a 10/10 rating for mounting like Scott rightly expected from us.

 

[Delancy]

Firstly, comments on price...

Sarcasm is difficult to convey in text.

My remarks were stated sarcastically, since it's considered unnecessary to buy shocks of a caliber beyond what NAPA sells for Ford trucks, amongst some in the crowd.

$500 is a bargain for a quality shock and other brands of similar construction exceed.

Money well spent if you enjoy driving the 80, in my opinion.

Once we get production ones done I will send him a set.

If they'll be offered "For Sale" I'd replace my temporaries with....



Nothing like a high quality zip tie.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Sarcasm is difficult to convey in text.

We should develop a color coding for emails and text so that we know what is implied! Wasn't making comments directed at anyone in particular. We have just learned that the high end shock world is not a low $ place.

 

[Delancy]

We should develop a color coding for emails and text so that we know what is implied!

I agree.

In lieu of, this is a good indicator that some degree of s(martass)arcasm may be embedded.

.

We have just learned that the high end shock world is not a low $ place.

but worth the investment, especially when butt dyno'ing any lesser equivalent to, ride by ride.

It is a Lexus, ya know.

 

[IronCladLou]

We should develop a color coding for emails and text so that we know what is implied!

Green text is used explicitly on another forum I frequent to note sarcasm.

 

[scottryana]

So I made up with the tuning shop and we have been tweaking things here and there. MAF housing size location, timing, boost levels, etc and we are at the point we have pushed it as high as anyone is comfortable for daily driving. There is still a huge amount of power on the table since we are only at 15.88lbs of boost. We had to limit boost down low and also be less aggressive with timing or the torque would just way over power the transmission. But less talk more pictures. Lol.

2.55 times hp, estimated crank power 540hp 2.24 times tq, estimated crank torque 720ft/lbs!

For those that say a turbo is for race cars, we still made 75+ft/lbs every where on the dyno over the stock dyno pull. The weird spike/dip you see is the torque converter struggling with the extra power.

 

[scottryana]

Oh and red is stock, blue is 15.8psi. Lol

 

[scottryana]

Before cooler heads prevailed and we were going to turn the boost and timing up and go for a Hail Mary. Lol. Baktash from EMS and Jorge from JMS dumping in MS109 race fuel.

It would have been awesome to see just how much power we could make but I decided not on my truck. Haha

 

[lilevo]

Where are you coming up w your crank #s?

Generally you add 20% or so to dynojet numbers and that gets you close to crank numbers.

So 340ish dyno hp would be somewhere around 400-415 crank assuming 20-25% drivetrain loss.

 

[scottryana]

Based directly off pre and post vs stock on the same dyno with atmospheric correction.

Stock is 212hp. Pre turbo on same dyno was 135hp so actual loss was 36% This is inline with all the 80's the shop has dyno'd the lowest loss being 31% highest being close to 40%

Not perfect but I would say 90% of people on mud are not used to comparing AWHP numbers since they have never dyno'd their truck. If you said 200awhp most people wouldn't think you made much power if any at all over the 212 crank hp. Better than nothing.

Where are you coming up w your crank #s?

Generally you add 20% or so to dynojet numbers and that gets you close to crank numbers.

So 340ish dyno hp would be somewhere around 400-415 crank assuming 20-25% drivetrain loss.

 

[scottryana]

Because he was supporting a customer? This has been hashed out many times that he needs office help. Not sure that belongs in my thread.

I see why now he can't return calls, pm or emails.

 

[lilevo]

Wow ok. I think mine based a little higher around 150hp, but still seems like the factory numbers are slightly inflated or there's significantly more drivetrain loss than the "standard"

 

[scottryana]

Well you do have an automatic transmission, plus you also have the viscous coupler in the fulltime transfercase. The drivetrain loss is pretty high.

You just made me curious if you locked the center diff lock if you would see a little less drivetrain loss?

 

[lilevo]

Not sure, next time I'm on the dyno I will try it though.

 

[retrofive]

Because he was supporting a customer? This has been hashed out many times that he needs office help. Not sure that belongs in my thread.

Deleted.

 

[scottryana]

So how much heat do these heaters put out?? I suspect I already know my answer, ha. But for once I wish someone would just tell me "nah that's normal" lol

So living in southern Texas there is very rarely a need for the heater but this week we had an "arctic storm" hit and it's down in the 30's. I pulled out my rear heater so am left with just the front. With the 30 degree temp and just the front heater the truck struggles to stay warm. I would guess it to be 65 inside? The truck does get up to operating temp usually around 177-181, but the heater just doesn't put out a lot of heat. Was the front heater coil undersized since they used two or is mine just clogged and in need of replacement?

If you only have the front heater how does your truck do in he 30 degree range?

Thanks!