lx450 hydro assist pics

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Sold.

Now for the logistics, since I've liquidated all my gearboxes save the installed.

Is porting that big a deal that a local machinist couldn't do? Don't really want to buy another box, rebuild kit, and 105 sector shaft, and don't have a month for WTO.
 
i don't think the porting/tapping is very difficult. probably the hardest part would be taking the box apart and putting it back together after.
there are some write-ups on line of how to take the box apart and where to drill and tap. I pretty sure Dusty on here did his own when he was swapping to tons.

not sure what their lead time is now, but it didn't take them very long to get mine back to me.
 
A lot of guys just grease up their drill bit to catch most debris so they don't have to rebuild/ take apart their box.
 
Until I can determine why I have a continuing issue with the jam nut loosening, I can't rule out tearing it down anyway.

Will research the process further, but I may lack the steady hand for drilling the box.
 
Yeah, that's what I'm going to do.

Followed the FSM for wheel play and torque ( with a cobbling of torque and open end wrench ) all maintaining the screw location, but tired of being PSingless way off the beaten path.

Even before that incident, in the tight rocks the OE just couldn't keep up. Was trailing four Heeps all linked with PSC set ups, and they expended a quarter of the effort, one actually ( as LT previously said) moving rocks with the PSing.

I'm not a putty and don't mind my forearms being sore, but it'd be one less thing drawing focus while attempting to run buggy trails in a long wheelbase station wagon.
 
wv_lx450 said:
you will love the ram assist. it will make you wonder how you wheeled without it so long.

Chit, I've been wheeling an FJC for two years, so still have an ear to ear grin, even with veins about to bust out of my arms from under assisted 80 PS system ( considering 37 ish tires), since it has that funny solid thingy in the front. Hahahahaha.

In the logistical planning stages now, so sure I'll be posing tech questions soon.
 
just got done tearing down my box to try to cure the massive amount of play my steering box had developed. i found out that my steering stops were not adjusted properly and box was being over rotated. i bought a donor box to steal some internals from because i wasnt sure what was wrong with mine and i didnt want my truck to be down for too long.
once i got the box off my truck and taken apart, i found that the play i was experiencing was between the power piston and the input shaft or "worm gear". so, i went ahead put the spare internals in my steering box and that fixed the problem.
i went back and started looking at my old internals to see exactly where the problem was and found that the preload nut and lock nut on the input shaft bearing had come loose. it was allowing the input shaft to move in and out without moving the power piston. so it turned out i didnt need to replace anything to start with.
thought this bit of info might be helpful to someone if they have lots of play and the adjustment screw doesnt help. here's a pic of the part im talking about.
psbox.webp
 
Didn't you have your box rebuilt by West Texas Offroad?
 
Yeah, it wasnt anything they did. Without the steering stops, the only thing stopping the steering system was the internal parts of the box and i guess the first thing to give was that preload nut. Its actually good that it gave because it probably saved the box from being damaged. If it hadnt loosened, i figure the worm gear or the piston would have been damaged.
 
Any ill affects at play here, that may have been caused by over tightening the jam nut?

If a dumb question, pardon my ignorance, but I didn't rebuild mine, and ignorant to how "a" may affect "b".

I did speak with the box builder about the nut loosening, who reiterated the pedigree of the box I have (in case search is your friend, he called me, not emailed, offered to send a new box or cap to avoid downtime (customer service) then thoroughly explained the details of the rebuild arrangement, stated this was isolated, as he'd never had any issues) and he agreed that while there's no real explanation to the why, that my torquing procedure was flawed and to tighten further.

We also further discussed the OE pumps ability to keep up with hydro, and how he'd bench tested to the point it bent the sector shaft. Insane pressures, yet, even with increased carrying capacity, the math wouldn't allow for continuing diversions to a ram of other hydro apparatus at a proper speed. (Some of that statement may be riddled with errors, as I don't fully understand all that was discussed )

I've measured and can triple fluid capacity with a larger cooler that could still mount below radiator, protected, but still unsure if that, in and of itself, is enough to prevent cavitation.

A little discouraging (his threads here and in conversations are what solidified not doing hydro, based on testing) but did get me thinking, because I'm all about further assistance steering, and considering even larger tires.

If dumb, flame on. I'm not a hydrologist.

First, if using a smaller ram, I'm assuming there's greater PSI at play which could be harnessed, but realize there's a reason why everyone else goes larger. That said, would there still be a marginal gain worth consideration?

Second, and probably the dumbest.

Use a lot of hydraulic equipment that steering and hydraulic functions utilize the same reservoir, yet have two pumps. Is it possible to utilize a belt driven pump for just the hydro assist ( possibly winch ) almost in a circuit with the gearbox?
 
i dont think tightening the jam nut had anything to do with it. as long as the sector shaft still turns freely, you arent binding anything in the box. if you look in this thread- https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/443494-steering-gear-box-rebuild.html -you can see how the worm gear makes the piston slide inside the box. when the steering stops arent touching at full lock of the steering box, any force on tires will cause the box to turn further than it should. that force has to go somewhere and apparently the internals of the box are stronger than the tension on the preload nut and lock nut.

after i put the spare internals in my steering box, i messed with the ones i took out that were loose. all i had to do was tighten that preload nut and lock nut and it fixed all the play that the old parts had.

about your jam nut loosening--after having my box apart and seeing how it works, there is nothing that nut does except keep the adjustment screw from turning. there shouldnt be any real force getting applied to that screw or nut. i would just tighten it as tight as you feel comfortable. i tightened mine about as tight as i could get it with a normal box wrench. might even try some loc-tite on the threads.

i put the trail gear reservoir and two small coolers behind the grill and i seem to have plenty capacity to not have cavitation or heat problems. all the factory lines are still there also. the same fluid has been in the system since i did the hydro assist, and was still nice and red and not burnt when i drained it the other day. (mobil 1 full synthetic atf)

i dont think you could get away with any larger ram for hydro assist. it might be stronger, but you would trade off too much speed to be worth it.

on using a separate pump for the hydro assist-- might be possible, but i dont know how you would sync the two pumps (one running the ram and one running the box) to turn the box and extend the ram at the same speed. you would also need a very large reservoir. if was going to the trouble of mounting a belt driven pump, i would just run a pump built for full hydro by itself and have all the pressure and gpm that you would ever need.
 
wv_lx450 said:
Yeah, it wasnt anything they did. Without the steering stops, the only thing stopping the steering system was the internal parts of the box and i guess the first thing to give was that preload nut. Its actually good that it gave because it probably saved the box from being damaged. If it hadnt loosened, i figure the worm gear or the piston would have been damaged.

From what I've read, your supposed to let the ram judge your steering throw, if you have steering stops set up the ram can put tremendous pressure on them, I have a 1.5x8" ram and it limits my box by about a quarter inch
 
thats the other thing im going to check on mine as im putting it back together. the ram i have is made for the d60 and i believe when i set it up at first that its stroke matched the distance that the tie rod moved almost exactly. i know with full hydro that it is too strong for the knuckles and steering stops but i dont know about this assist setup. it might be strong enough, also.
 

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