LS/Manual swappers, tech needed (1 Viewer)

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Hey all you Stick shifting Vortec’ers, I need your tech advice.

I’m in the middle of 5.3L/Ranger OD/H41 swap. Using lt1swap.com instructions for redoing the wiring and had a question or two. He lists the TCC brake switch wire as an external connection but seeing as I don’t have a torque converter I’m wondering if it is used for another purpose that is not apparent to me? Like needing input to start the engine? I’ve tried emailing Brendan but no response in a week. I’m not using the cruise but the pcm came from an auto truck, not sure if that matters? Brendan’s instructions say it needs to be 12v all the time except when the brake is pressed.

Second question, For a/c I was just going to use the stock wiring to trigger the compressor clutch, do I need anything else? I’m no HVAC expert.

TIA
Joel
 
I have not done a manual LS swap, but i would think you don't need the TCC switch wire, but I would put it off to the side for now just in case. For the AC the LS ecu has a wire you can connect to signal if the compressor is on and will bump up the idle a bit. I also emailed brendan for my swap and got no response. I have been using black bear performance so far, Justin answers my questions through email but it takes a while for him to get back to me-about a week. His tuning is well spoken of.
 
TCC is not used with a manual trans...I had the same question, and did receive a reply from Brendan.

As for the AC, you can use the stock wire (+12v) to trigger it, but you'll need to either make the AC amplifier see a proper (2F) rpm signal...or simply remove a resistor on the amplifier. That's what I did. I believe I referenced the thread where I found the info here in my swap thread, or you can search for it pretty easily.

- Brian
 
Hey all you Stick shifting Vortec’ers, I need your tech advice.

I’m in the middle of 5.3L/Ranger OD/H41 swap. Using lt1swap.com instructions for redoing the wiring and had a question or two. He lists the TCC brake switch wire as an external connection but seeing as I don’t have a torque converter I’m wondering if it is used for another purpose that is not apparent to me? Like needing input to start the engine? I’ve tried emailing Brendan but no response in a week. I’m not using the cruise but the pcm came from an auto truck, not sure if that matters? Brendan’s instructions say it needs to be 12v all the time except when the brake is pressed.

Second question, For a/c I was just going to use the stock wiring to trigger the compressor clutch, do I need anything else? I’m no HVAC expert.

TIA
Joel
I’ll be following, finally someone not doing an auto swap.

I’m in the process of doing the same swap myself this should be good
 
Thanks all!

I’m not much a build thread guy but may post up when I’m done. I’m going this all by my lonesome, no high dollar stuff or fancy fab work coming out of this gravel floor shop!

Currently Ive got the stock drivetrain out, cleaning up stock wiring, getting the clutch operation worked out and waiting on motor mounts to show up.
 
If I remember correctly the ECM has to be reprogrammed to not search for a signal from the Auto tranny. @NCFJ Stan should be able to answer the question or maybe @orangefj45 Georg can.
 
The ECM will need to be gone through and set up for a manual trans. I can not help with specifically what changes will be made as I do not get into the ECMs myself. People keep telling me that I need to get something like HP Tuners and start doing programming and harness work myself. Some things are better left to those that grew up with it and already know it inside and out. :)
 
We send our ECMs to Howell Engine Development in Michigan. We also use their harnesses.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 
For the AC amp, you need to either have 1) a working tach/proper tach signal, 2) amplifier from an FJ62 (plug & play), or 3) mod your 60 AC amp to work without a tach signal.

The instructions for #3 are on the first page in this thread:

The A/C Amp Thread
 
Hey @orangefj45 Georg,

Did you come up with this vss set up or know who did on Oyajijon’s fj60?

F9458047-BDA7-42EA-801F-B85CDC40E161.jpeg
 
For the AC amp, you need to either have 1) a working tach/proper tach signal, 2) amplifier from an FJ62 (plug & play), or 3) mod your 60 AC amp to work without a tach signal.

The instructions for #3 are on the first page in this thread:

The A/C Amp Thread
Awesome tech, thanks!
 
I’ve seen several VSS setups; about 6 that I can think of.

The one pictured was already installed in the vehicle when we worked on it.
Iirc, Ron @ Custom Cruisers made setups like this, he may have built that one.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 

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