Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

I done more than a few lower ball joint. I find the Powerbuilt 46 kit has everything I need. No need for a 2 1/2 pipe adapter. As @Biga27110 said: The trick is to take off the ball joint boot. You want the adapter the fits very sung on the bear ball joint. Otherwise it will be difficult to center and keep square.

Centering marks

Boot is off.

On another note. I found that the spread between knuckle and control arm is ~2.2 mm less with 555s, than factory. The gap we see between snap ring and lower control is the ball joint coming up ~2.2 mm to far, before seating. Not sure if this has any effect on suspension or alignment. But would be nice if it fit like factory. I'm looking for a large 2 or 3mm thick washer to place on ball joint, than press in BJ.

Notice the gap, which is due to ball joint seating to high. In this picture gap looks uneven, which mean not seated squarely/fully.

Factory 26.2mm gap

555 24mm gap

 

[Biga27110]

I done more than a few lower ball joint. I find the Powerbuilt 46 kit has everything I need. No need for a 2 1/2 pipe adapter. As @Biga27110 said: The trick is to take off the ball joint boot. You want the adapter the fits very sung on the bear ball joint. Otherwise it will be difficult to center and keep square.

Centering marks
View attachment 2436208
Boot is off.
View attachment 2436210

On another note. I found that the spread between knuckle and control arm is 4 mm less with 555s, than factory. The gap we see between snap ring and lower control is the ball joint coming up 3 mm to far, before seating. Not sure if this has any effect on suspension or alignment. But would be nice if fit like factory. I'm looking for a large 3mm thick washer to place on ball joint, than press in.

View attachment 2436185
Factory 26.2mm gap
View attachment 2436196
555 24mm gap
View attachment 2436197

Thanks for all the detail it helps build confidence going into the install. The forum is an invaluable resource.

Is this the right one

Amazon product ASIN B0028QGT86

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for all the detail it helps build confidence going into the install. The forum is an invaluable resource.

Is this the right one

Amazon product ASIN B0028QGT86

Yes, it is the one I use. Advance auto sell (loans) for $246, then return for full refund..

 

[DuckLN]

My 555 LBJs seated like that, too. Next time (if there is one), I may try the napa LBJ but it is about double the price if I recall.

 

[DuckLN]

Heres the underside of a 555 LBJ without the rubber boot for reference. You can see the surface that you want to press and it needs to go all the way in like pictured.

 

[Biga27110]

Heres the underside of a 555 LBJ without the rubber boot for reference. You can see the surface that you want to press and it needs to go all the way in like pictured.View attachment 2436577

Omg thats a picture I was hoping for! Now there is no grey areas in this install. Thank you so much. Im ready to take on this install when the part comes in from cruiser outfitters.

 

[zhloea]

Yes remove the boot to get the install tool on sung. The sung fit helps keep ball joint aligned as you press in.

You do not need to lube them. Just keep very clean until boot back on.

Could we lube the outer of the ball joint or the hole of the lower control arm for an easy press?
Or we should never lube them at all then they will seat much more firm in there to avoid any drop-off possibility?
Thanks

 

[2001LC]

Could we lube the outer of the ball joint or the hole of the lower control arm for an easy press?
Or we should never lube them at all then they will seat much more firm in there to avoid any drop-off possibility?
Thanks

I grease them. Helps with install and acts as rust inhibitor.

 

[zhloea]

I done more than a few lower ball joint. I find the Powerbuilt 46 kit has everything I need. No need for a 2 1/2 pipe adapter. As @Biga27110 said: The trick is to take off the ball joint boot. You want the adapter the fits very sung on the bear ball joint. Otherwise it will be difficult to center and keep square.

Centering marks
View attachment 2436208
Boot is off.
View attachment 2436210

On another note. I found that the spread between knuckle and control arm is ~2.2 mm less with 555s, than factory. The gap we see between snap ring and lower control is the ball joint coming up ~2.2 mm to far, before seating. Not sure if this has any effect on suspension or alignment. But would be nice if it fit like factory. I'm looking for a large 2 or 3mm thick washer to place on ball joint, than press in BJ.

Notice the gap, which is due to ball joint seating to high. In this picture gap looks uneven, which mean not seated squarely/fully.
View attachment 2436185
Factory 26.2mm gap
View attachment 2436196
555 24mm gap
View attachment 2436197

Working on my LBJ, Did I press it out too much? Please let me know your suggestion before I put on snap ring, Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

You're okay, put the snap ring on. Pressing in until it stop, is proper procedure.

Unfortunately the 555's are not a perfect fit. The stop on them, is cut about 2mm deeper than OME. It would be nice to find a SS washer ~2mm thick, and place on them before pressing in. But I've to find one a perfect fit.

 

[zhloea]

You're okay, put the snap ring on. Pressing in until it stop, is proper procedure.

Unfortunately the 555's are not a perfect fit. The stop on them, is cut about 2mm deeper than OME. It would be nice to find a SS washer ~2mm thick, and place on them before pressing in. But I've to find one a perfect fit.

Thanks! I just found it is very hard to put the snap ring back, it is a very strong ring...Is there any trick or tool to do this?

 

[2001LC]

I just hammer on. Finish the job to seat with blunt flat chisel.

 

[zhloea]

I just hammer on. Finish the job to seat with blunt flat chisel.

I grease the groove on the ball joint and the snap ring, then hammer it with a dead blow, then worked with a chisel. I think the grease will help the snap ring move in and prevent scratch to the ball joint but don't know if I should grease it or not, will the grease impact the grasp/stability of the snap ring？

 

[2001LC]

The 555 doesn't require any greasing.

I use marine grease all over the top of LBJ, including between LCA & snap ring. Simply as a rust inhibitor.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

The 555 doesn't require any greasing.

I use marine grease all over the top of LBJ, including between LCA & snap ring. Simply as a rust inhibitor.

This is a good tip. I replaced my outer TREs with 555 before reading your advice and they rusted right away. But then I saw your earlier posts and I put marine grease on my UCA/LCA 555 ball joints when I installed them and they are doing great 6 months later.

 

[OwnerCS]

I sprayed mine with a couple of coats of clear before installation. Then used grease for the installation. The last I looked they are doing ok. Nowadays they get covered with mud. I took the boots off for installation to reduce the risk of damaging them.

 

[2001LC]

The 555 TRE issue I saw with 2 in a row during inspections, is ball of TRE not holding up. They needed R&R again, where as factory still okay. When you consider the replacement 555 TRE had less miles on them. Well that's not good! Since we can get OEM TRE, they are my first choice for a few dollars more.

To be fair; Issue that caused TRE to go bad in first place, may not have been addressed. Front ends, not to factory spec, can and will cause further damage down the line by excessive movement pounding on components of front end. (i.e steering rack, inner & outer TRE, control arm bushing, ball joints, TRE, wheel bearings, FDS, hub flange, tire thread, axle bearing & bushing.) Add some over-sized tires and/or a lift to the mix, and wear/damage from out of spec components speed up.

 

[zhloea]

The 555 TRE issue I saw with 2 in a row during inspections, is ball of TRE not holding up. They needed R&R again, where as factory still okay. When you consider the replacement 555 TRE had less miles on them. Well that's not good! Since we can get OEM TRE, they are my first choice for a few dollars more.

To be fair; Issue that caused TRE to go bad in first place, may not have been addressed. Front ends, not to factory spec, can and will cause further damage down the line by excessive movement pounding on components of front end. (i.e steering rack, inner & outer TRE, control arm bushing, ball joints, TRE, wheel bearings, FDS, hub flange, tire thread, axle bearing & bushing.) Add some over-sized tires and/or a lift to the mix, and wear/damage from out of spec components speed up.

I plan to replace with 555 outer TRE after I done the UBJ, LBJ, and both CV axles in the next couple of weeks. The reason is I found the original outer TRE joint has a lot of play.

Here is the plan I have and I want to get suggestions from you guys:
I will replace my Steering rack sooner or later, and definitely replace outer TRE again with OEM when I do this.
But before I replace the Rack I want to see if the UPB, LBJ replacement with new 555 TRE replacement will help to release the symptom of a little stiff and wander steering (not that much, just a little). By the way, my steering rack looks not bad, still shinny no major leaks. And, very important, I got two new 555 outer TRE in hand by mistake...

Does this plan looks reasonable/make any sense to you? Thanks for any suggestion!

 

[2001LC]

The 555 TRE will work just fine. They just don't seem to last as long as OEM..

BTW. Hard steering is not reason to replace ball joints. The factory gives a rotational test for BJ's, when knuckle off. With knuckle on, old school field test is what I do. Upper BJ's are a little hard to inspect which the knuckle on. But principle the same as lowers. This is for OEM or style like 555. Some ball joints, allow for some movement. For those check with manufacture as what limit is.

Additional I don't see many upper BJ bad. Unless in accident or someone smacked with a hammer.

Field test LBJ. Any movement with OEM or OEM style is a bad Ball Joint. They only get worst.

 

[zhloea]

The 555 TRE will work just fine. They just don't seem to last as long as OEM..

BTW. Hard steering is not reason to replace ball joints. The factory gives a rotational test for BJ's, when knuckle off. With knuckle on, old school field test is what I do. Upper BJ's are a little hard to inspect which the knuckle on. But principle the same as lowers. This is for OEM or style like 555. Some ball joints, allow for some movement. For those check with manufacture as what limit is.

Additional I don't see many upper BJ bad. Unless in accident or someone smacked with a hammer.

Field test LBJ. Any movement with OEM or OEM style is a bad Ball Joint. They only get worst.

Do I need to put any lock-tight to the bolt which connects the ball joint to the wheel knuckle? Is it ok if there is a little grease on these bolts?
(because I greased the hole on the knuckle when I put it on to prevent thread damage, so there will be a little grease on the ball joint bolt. I think it would be ok because there are cotter pins, but I'd better confirm this ) Thanks!